Around the world in 80 Toques

[lizziee]

Intrigued by Cabrales' quest for certain dishes, I went through a book I have entitled "Le Tour du Monde en 80 Toques" with illustrations by Georges Damin. It lists the menus from the 80 selected restaurants as well as not only giving a biography of each chef, but also detailing what each chef would consider his ideal meal from his menu.

The majority of the restaurants are from France and include Pacaud, Passard, Veyrat, Haeberlin, Bocuse, Boyer, Bras, Chapel, Loiseau, Robuchon, Henriroux, Senderens to name a few. Also listed are restaurants from Belgium, Spain, United States, Japan etc. (This is an older book - note Chapel was alive and Robuchon was at Jamin)

Some of the ideal menus chosen by the chefs are listed below.

Menu Ideal de Paul Bocuse

Soupe aux Truffes Noires V.G.E.

Loup de Ligne en Croute a la Mousse de Homard, Sauce Choron

Volaille de Bresse en Vessie, Sauce Albufera

Baratte de Chevre et St-Marcellin "Mere Richard"

Tarte des Demoiselles Tatin et Glace Vanille

Menu Ideal de Bernard Loiseau

Jambonnettes de Grenouilles a la Puree d'Ail et au Jus de Persil

Sandre Roti a la Fondue d'Echalote et au Vin Rouge

Poularde a la vapeur "Alexandre Dumaine" presentee dans son pot

Fromage Epoisse

Rose des Sables a la Compote d'Oranges Confites

Menu Ideal de Patrick Henriroux

Coquilles St Jacques a la Truffe

Turbot au jus de Poulet

Poularde en Vessie Fernand Point

Piano au Chocolat Sauce Cafe -- Dessert Griottines

Menu Ideal D'Alain Senderens

Cointreau au Ice et ses Amuse-Bouche

Foie Gras de Canard au Chou, a la Vapeur

Homard a la Vanille

Canard Apicius

Association de Vins et Fromages

Soupe de Mangues aux Fraises des Bois et sa Garniture

[Louisa Chu]

Thanks Lizziee. Fascinating.

Familiarity and assessments of the chefs' menus? Just wondering if you've had any of the same dishes - or even any of the same menus - and what you thought about them if applicable. Merci!

Edited January 23, 2003 by loufood (log)

[lizziee]

loufood,

This is obviously only 4 ideal menus out of 80. I am struck, however, that these particular chefs chose many of their "signature" dishes for their ideal menu. I think it is more than just a pride in their creation. I think they chose dishes that they really enjoy eating.

As for those items that I have sampled, it varies from one chef to another.

I have eaten 3 of the dishes listed for Senderens:

Foie Gras de Canard au Chou, a la Vapeur

Homard a la Vanille

Canard Apicius

Unfortunately, the last time I had the Duck Apicius, it was not as good as other times but that might have been a result of someone showing up unexpectedly at the last minute and our changing what we had originally ordered.

I have only had Bocuse's Soupe aux Truffes Noires V.G.E. and that was in LA, many years ago, when he cooked it himself. It was spectacular. When we ate at Bocuse in France, I am afraid I have to second Cabrales' sentiments and say it was not very good.

I haven't eaten at Loiseau in quite some time and that was in my pre-note-taking period. I know we ate the Jambonnettes de Grenouilles a la Puree d'Ail et au Jus de Persil and the

Poularde a la vapeur "Alexandre Dumaine" presentee dans son pot, but as to the later, I am very hazy. The grenouille dish was wonderful and I can still taste that one.

Finally, as to Henriroux, I have not sampled any of the listed dishes. My general feeling about Pyramide is that this was a two star on the way down. I saw them serving the chicken and assumed that it is to be carved tableside. They didn't. They quickly showed the chicken, whisked it off to the kitchen and plated it there. Also, unusual for France, they were turning tables.

If there are any other chefs you are interested in, I will be happy to post their ideal menus.

[cabrales]

There is more than one version of the book. I only have one version, but I have seen a different version in Troisgros' gastronomic library.

[lizziee]

cabrales,

Do you and I have the same version?

[cabrales]

I will post by tomorrow which version I have. I bought it at Librarie Gourmand.

[cabrales]

Menu Ideal de Paul Bocuse

Soupe aux Truffes Noires V.G.E. -- Yes

Loup de Ligne en Croute a la Mousse de Homard, Sauce Choron -- To be sampled, possibly, although this will be difficult with the volaille en vessie too

Volaille de Bresse en Vessie, Sauce Albufera -- One of my next targets

Baratte de Chevre et St-Marcellin "Mere Richard" -No

Tarte des Demoiselles Tatin et Glace Vanille -No

Menu Ideal de Bernard Loiseau

Jambonnettes de Grenouilles a la Puree d'Ail et au Jus de Persil -Yes

Sandre Roti a la Fondue d'Echalote et au Vin Rouge - Yes

Poularde a la vapeur "Alexandre Dumaine" presentee dans son pot -Yes

Fromage Epoisse

Rose des Sables a la Compote d'Oranges Confites - No

Menu Ideal de Patrick Henriroux

Coquilles St Jacques a la Truffe -- No

Turbot au jus de Poulet -- No

Poularde en Vessie Fernand Point - On my list

Piano au Chocolat Sauce Cafe -- Dessert Griottines - No

Menu Ideal D'Alain Senderens

Cointreau au Ice et ses Amuse-Bouche -- No

Foie Gras de Canard au Chou, a la Vapeur -- Yes, three times

Homard a la Vanille -- Yes

Canard Apicius -- Yes

Association de Vins et Fromages

Soupe de Mangues aux Fraises des Bois et sa Garniture -- No

I am working on various dishes (samplings to date indicated as "Yes").

Edited January 23, 2003 by cabrales (log)

[cabrales]

lizziee -- We have differfent editions. Below is the ideal menu of Loiseau in my version:

Les Langoustines roties a la vinaigrette de truffe

Le turbot au jus de roti de veau

Le blanc de volaille fermiere et le foie gras chaud de canard

L'Epoisse

La boite au chocolat et la glace noisette au coulis de griottes

Pulighny Montrachet du Domaine du Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet

Petit Chablis de Jean Durup

Volnay Lafarge

The Bocuse ideal menu:

Oreiller de la Belle Aurore, Sauce poivrade

Quenelle de brochet, sauce Nantua

Granite des Vignerons du Beaujolais

Volaille de Bresse a la broche au feu de bois

Selection de fromage frais et affines "Mere Richard"

Ambassadeur "Maurice Bernachon"

Pouilly Fuisse 1993, Georges Duboeuf

Cote Rotie, "Cote Brune et Blonde" 1990, Etienne Guigal

The illustrations are by Vavro or Vanro?

[mogsob]

A bit surprised that there was no mention of ortolan. I would think the banned-bird would surface on any self-respecting Frenchman's ideal menu.

[cabrales]

mogsob -- Each chef presents his ideal menu of his own dishes (typically drawn from present or past menus). Each chef's page has an indicative menu. Also included is a full-page drawing of the restaurant, and some facts on the chef and his cuisine.

[lizziee]

Cabrales,

Even though we have different additions, how do you feel about those chefs that were included/excluded? Who was mentioned for the United States in your addition?

[cabrales]

lizziee -- Very few US restaurants were mentioned, if I recall. My edition appears to be from some time during the period from 1995 to the time when Ducasse left 59 Poincare. I haven't reviewed this book much.

Edited January 23, 2003 by cabrales (log)

[Louisa Chu]

lizziee, cabby, et al - generally speaking how much/often/at all do the etoiles counsel you in terms of ordering? So you try all the signature dishes, seasonal specials, but not too much at once that's too similar in terms of taste and texture?