Zankou Chicken

[hollywood]

Zankou Chicken is a wonderful chain of about 4 stores in SoCal that makes terrific Lebanese/Armenian roasted chicken and chicken "sandwiches" featuring an addictive garlic paste and delicious chicken. Here's some sad news.

http://www.dailynews.com/cda/article/print...1114285,00.html

[muon]

What a horrible story.

Zankou Chicken is one of my favorites. Before New York, I lived in Sherman Oaks, less than a mile from the Van Nuys Zankou location. During a point in my career when I was working late a lot, probably two nights a week I'd push myself to get out of the office so that I could make it to Zankou before they closed.

This is typical of my experiences there:

Me: "Two chicken schwerma, extra pickle & peppers"

Armenian Zankou Cashier: "Here or to go"

M: "Here"

AZC: "We're closed -- to go only"

M: "It's only 9:40, you don't close until 10"

AZC: "We're closed"

M: "Ok, to go then"

AZC "That will be $??"

In another thread today, I made mention of my very low tolerance to apathetic service. To me, the service at Zankou is beyond apathetic -- it's downright surly (at least in Van Nuys -- my experiences at the Hollywood location were slightly better). You'd think that surly service, coupled with the harsh neon lights and less-comfortable-than-a-picnic-bench seating would keep me away, but I couldn't make it through a month without eating at Zankou *at least* twice -- and often significantly more. The sandwiches are simple in their construction -- a folded pita (from plastic bag -- not made fresh); a very pungent, thick, white garlic sauce (perhaps a little olive oil?); chicken cut from a rotating spit (similar to how gyros are cooked -- the chicken meat is probably 90% white, and almost like butterflied breasts stacked up on the spit); neon pink pickles (the type of which I'm not sure), ranging from small slivers to several inches long (cut like a french fry); and small, very hot yellow peppers (somewhat similar to pepperoncini, but much smaller and hotter).

It's all about the garlic paste, pickles, and small peppers -- all very strong competing flavors, the result is difficult to describe ... but Heaven! The slightly charred chicken compliments the other strong flavors very well, makes them a little more mellow and brings them back together.

For those in the know -- *what* exactly are those pickles. Watermelon rind? Beets?

A good friend lives in New York, but her parents live in Brentwood. At least twice a year she'll bring me back Zankou sandwiches -- she makes a point to stop by Sunset/Zankou the day before flying back, and carries the sandwiches back on the plane, in a mini cooler. A good friend, and I'm very lucky -- I don't know that I'd be able to do that for someone else (carry on a cooler??? please ...). She even gave me a Zankou tshirt (egg yolk yellow with orange lettering) a couple of years ago. People who've been there know the tshirt I'm talking about. I've been stopped on the streets in New York, and asked if Zankou Chicken has opened something here. The little glimmer of hope evaporates quickly when they learn the tshirt is from LA. The truth hurts.

I've searched high and low for a close replacement in New York, but I haven't found anything close (admittedly I haven't looked outside of Manhattan much). I have found good schwerma here (Rainbow Falafel on 17th), but it's very very different and pales in comparison to my beloved Zankou. I'm going to post something in New York to find something comparable.

I'm sad for Margarit Iskenderian, but even sadder for everyone else if this is the end of Zankou.

--m.

Edited January 17, 2003 by muon33 (log)

[hollywood]

Nice post but way too descriptive. Now I'm jones'n for Zankou. From what I hear a twenty something son may be running the show. We'll see. Let's hope for the best. The tee shirts are now the same egg yolk yellow with blue lettering as I recall.

[muon]

Very descriptive perhaps. It's my eulogy for Margarit. Any idea about my question?

For those in the know -- *what* exactly are those pickles.  Watermelon rind?  Beets?

[hollywood]

Very descriptive perhaps.  It's my eulogy for Margarit.  Any idea about my question?

For those in the know -- *what* exactly are those pickles.  Watermelon rind?  Beets?

I've heard that they are turnips soaked/pickled in beet juice. Until somebody told me that, I thought they were pickled beets.

[muon]

I've heard that they are turnips soaked/pickled in beet juice.  Until somebody told me that, I thought they were pickled beets.

That sounds right. The funny thing is that I can't stand even the smell of beets. But I've got to have them on my Zankou.

[hollywood]

I've heard that they are turnips soaked/pickled in beet juice.  Until somebody told me that, I thought they were pickled beets.

That sounds right. The funny thing is that I can't stand even the smell of beets. But I've got to have them on my Zankou.

I'm with you. To me, these pickled jewels are the highest and best use of turnips & beets. Good luck finding an East Coast fix. Maybe in Boston?

[monkeymay]

Truly, truly terrible and sad.

Zankou has been a major addiction for years now - I always buy

2 whole chickens to take home, in addition to a side of stuffed grape leaves (wonderfully rich and spicy) that I consume in my car on the drive back. The tabbouleh is my favorite in town - pungent with parsley and lemon, their tahini sauce and hommous fabulous foils to the garlic and chicken.

I only eat at the one on Sunset because these items aren't available at the other locations. They've always been incredibly kind to me at Zankou/Sunset , and it hurts to think things have ended so tragically for a really great family.

My heart goes out to them.

[muon]

monkeymay -- are the tahini you reference, and the garlic paste used in their schwerma different items? This came up in a New York thread (I'm searching for a reasonable Zankou/East facsimile). In my experience the garlic paste at Zankou is significantly different than tahini.

Also -- anyone know what's in that heavenly paste? I'm guessing garlic, olive oil, and a little yogurt. It would be the first time, but I could be completely wrong ...

Thanks -

m.

Edited January 18, 2003 by muon33 (log)

[hollywood]

Also -- anyone know what's in that heavenly paste?  I'm guessing garlic, olive oil, and a little yogurt.  It would be the first time, but I could be completely wrong ...

Think the paste is secret. People have guessed Tahini, garlic (duh!), mayo, potatoes, olive oil, etc.

Meanwhile, here's Beck's take:

i met you

at JC Penney

i think your nametag

said "Jenny"

i coldstep to you

with a fresh pack of gum

somehow i knew

you were lookin' for some

like a fruit that's ripe for a pickin'

i wanna do you like that Zankou Chicken

[monkeymay]

The tahini and garlic paste are two separate items.

Their tahini is very tangy, which is making my mouth water just thinking about it. As for the garlic paste, which is served on the side with the chicken, it might be bound with bread, along with the olive oil. A Greek friend of mind gave me a recipe years ago very similar to the Zankou paste, and soft white bread was a key ingredient.(Along with copious amounts of garlic).

Anyway, whenever I go there, I always order extra it's so damn good.

[muon]

A Greek friend of mind gave me a recipe years ago very similar to the Zankou paste ...

monkeymay -- grazie for the chiarificazione. Would you feel comfortable posting the recipe?

Edited January 19, 2003 by muon33 (log)

[monkeymay]

If I can find it, you can have it, it's from another life packed away...

Might take me some time - maybe we can come up with our own version.

Monkey

[mixmaster b]

This Zankou story is very very sad. And very strange.

I will keep my fingers crossed that the place doesn'y change. It really is SO good.

Meanwhile, here's Beck's take:

i met you

at JC Penney

i think your nametag

said "Jenny"

i coldstep to you

with a fresh pack of gum

somehow i knew

you were lookin' for some

like a fruit that's ripe for a pickin'

i wanna do you like that Zankou Chicken

One of the best songs ever written. Brilliant.

[NeroW]

So THAT'S what Beck meant. Mystery solved.

[bperlow]

Sorry I thought Zankou is over-rated..

I think Pita Kitchen is way better in Sherman Oaks.. If you need a chicken shwarma ot Kabob go there at Ventura and Van Nuys next to the newstand