[CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 3)

[percyn]

Chewy?  By your initial title, I assumed it was more like a block sorbet...  interesting.  Was it cold or room temperature?

Its a bit hard to express...it was frozen and when you first bite into it, it has a "chewy" texture of bitting into a flavored Popsicle. Upon melting, is had a certain viscoscity. Not sure if that explaination was any better, but the best thing would be to go to Alinea again and try it

As for the King Crab, I can't comment because I've never had that.  However, I will say it looks very "clean"-tasting.  What is the transluscent gelatin underneath the thin cut of crab?

The transluscent gelatin was actually a gelee of sushi rice wine vinegar, topped with different spices and yes, I would say it was "clean-tasting".

Shacke, enjoy your meal with the Mrs and report back...and don't forget to pocket one of those bacon strips for me.

[ulterior epicure]

Its a bit hard to express...it was frozen and when you first bite into it, it has a "chewy" texture of bitting into a flavored Popsicle. Upon melting, is had a certain viscoscity. Not sure if that explaination was any better, but the best thing would be to go to Alinea again and try it 

You did a fine job of expressing the experience. I understand what you mean. Thank you.

u.e.

[BryanZ]

Most people on the eve of a job interview in a new city that will play a significant role in their future "real world" lives likely check-in to their hotels, try to relax some, and maybe read over some interview preparation materials in their rooms or at the hotel bar.

I am not most people.

For some context, on Wednesday evening I was informed that I was to be in Chicago on Thursday night for an early set of interviews on Friday morning. Naturally, it became clear that I would have to eat at Alinea. Come Thursday, just minutes before I was to set off for the airport , I call up Alinea begging for a table for one. Literally, beg. It turns out they have an opening at 9 PM. Perfect, since my flight lands at Midway at 7:40, giving me just enough time to drop off my bags, change, and grab a cab. My faith and a $75 deposit were riding on the punctuality of Southwest Airlines.

Thankfully, I walk into 1723 N. Halstead at 9:01 PM. Life is good.

The motivation for this meal was quite rational. If a meal at Alinea for me also includes purchasing a plane ticket and hotel, the food portion of the meal is actually relatively small. Since my air transportation and lodging needs were accounted for, I couldn't resist.

Due to my time constraints, I had to order the shorter "Tasting" menu but received a couple extra courses. I had never had the truffle explosion--my previous visit to Alinea in late '05 was before the explosion was (re-)instated on the menu--so I asked to sample it even though it was not on the menu. They graciously accomodated this request. Naturally, this dish was a highlight. One of those "breathing-truffles-for-the-next-couple-courses" courses. The Chestnut was also an added extra and was much greater than its individual parts lead on. The Blis is truly a seductive productive.

The pictures Percy provided from his recent meal are really great, so there's not much for me to add on the visual side of things. I will say, however, that the Apple and Monkfish dishes were particular highlights for me. I loved the textural variety in the fish dish and found the banana/lime combination to be very fitting. I've been cooking a lot with shellfish/banana/lemongrass and this was kind of like that, just better. The Apple was also more compelling than the Pear from my previous meal, which I loved anyway. The horseradish gives the dish some soul.

To further use Percy's comments as a springboard:

The Octopus dish also works really well, especially the broth. There's a great interplay between mint, salt, and toastiness.

The shortrib dish was extremely rich--supposedly its Kobe but I'm not sure if that's American Wagyu or true Japanese beef--but I also felt the pink peppercorn was overwhelming at times. I didn't note an excess of mustard at all.

The lamb dish was also quite nice, and I particularly enjoyed the cabbage-braised-in-red-wine topping. I found I enjoyed the dish much more, however, if I put the "topping side" down in my mouth, as opposed to taking the seared side and placing it on my tongue. In addition to limiting risks of burning my mouth, I was better able to enjoy the distinct flavors that way.

The only dish I didn't much care for was the yuzu. Percy is right on the viscosity note once it has melted in your mouth. It was the only dish that felt artificial to me, as if the gelling/thickening agent was present in flavor. The texture was cool when frozen but just not that appealing when melted.

The soy in the chocolate dessert was strong, but by no means ruined the dessert for me. It's just a more assertive version of the salt/miso-chocolate combination that just happens to really shade away from the sweet. I enjoyed the dessert a lot, more so than the Orange.

Because of my interview, I had brought some documents to review. The staff was friendly but cognizant of my situation. I seem to recall that runners used to wear ties; now, however they wear these black smock things. I'm not sure if I like that. Nevertheless, it's purely aesthetic. Service was friendly but unobtrusive, and I was out of there in less than two hours. The pacing was pretty much perfect.

I attribute my strong performance in my interviews earlier today to the Alinea karma from the night before. One of my interviewers was highly amused that I'd been there the night before.

------

As a totally random aside, since I don't know where else to put this, but the Sofitel on 20 E. Chestnut (haha, see the parallel) is nice and very French. It has a surprisingly strong bread program at its restaurant that I really enjoyed--I stole two extra rolls and put them in my laptop bag.

Edited February 24, 2007 by BryanZ (log)

[percyn]

The shortrib dish was extremely rich--supposedly its Kobe but I'm not sure if that's American Wagyu or true Japanese beef--but I also felt the pink peppercorn was overwhelming at times.  I didn't note an excess of mustard at all.

Bryan, I think I recall them saying it was "American Kobe" (aka Wagyu).

If you do have some pictures, I encourage you to post them as everyone has a different POV.

I am glad you liked the chocolate and soy dessert I did not. Not sure if I did not like it due to a fatigued palate or whether the version I got had a stronger mixture for the soy.

Good luck with the job...

Edited February 25, 2007 by percyn (log)

[enhF94]

I'm really glad to see Alinea be OK with a table for one, and I can't imagine someone on eGullet who'd enjoy it more.

[shacke]

Bryan

You have helped me out greatly with your post. Not only am I having the tasting on Sunday but I am staying at the Sofitel and bread - to me - is a big shmear.

Thanks Z

[BryanZ]

I shill where I can. You can read my brief review of the Sofitel on TripAdvisor.

[robert40]

Interesting Q/A with Chef Achatz.

http://www.chicagoist.com/archives/2007/03...rant_achatz.php

[tammylc]

Interesting Q/A with Chef Achatz.

http://www.chicagoist.com/archives/2007/03...rant_achatz.php

←

That is a really good read. Thanks for the link.

For any Alinea fans who haven't read, it definitely go check it out. Here's an eGullet specific bit that's kinda interesting...

C: What food-related websites or media do you keep an eye on, for ideas and feedback?

GA: I do it a lot less now, but I used to be really into all the blogs, like eGullet, LTHForum, all of those. I don’t read them so much anymore, I don’t know why. I feel that some of it is that they’re losing some credibility. There’s a lot of good, honest material there, then there’s a lot of … bullshit. You know, where, at the beginning (of these sites), there was a lot of useful information, honest information. Now, somehow, I feel that maybe it’s a lot of people using it as a microphone to hear themselves. Then it becomes less credible. But what I’ve always enjoyed about it is it's the voice of the guest. If people come here and have a lousy time for a particular reason, are they ever going to come back to the kitchen and tell me? No, it’ll never happen. You might get a phone call the next day, or the occasional letter. But, if they immediately go online and list their complaints, I’ll know and then I can fix it. So it was always about the instant understanding of how people perceive the experience. That’s why I read them.

[ulterior epicure]

Yes, I found Chef Achatz's response to Chicagoist (excerpted by tammylc immediately above) extremely thoughtful, accurate, and articulate.

[yellow truffle]

Note to self: This Sunday at 2:30 (CST), WYCC (Chicago's local channel 20, (the website has incorrect information regarding the channel for Chicago, so check your local listing)) will be airing Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie. In this episode, "Avant Garde A La Carte," chef Louisa Chu will be visiting with chefs Homaru Cantu and Grant Achatz.

[worldtoughmilkman]

Note to self: This Sunday at 2:30 (CST), WYCC (Chicago's local channel 20, (the website has incorrect information regarding the channel for Chicago, so check your local listing)) will be airing Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie. In this episode, "Avant Garde A La Carte," chef Louisa Chu will be visiting with chefs Homaru Cantu and Grant Achatz.

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I will be trying to eat here in mid-may. How hard is it to get a reservation for a weekend. When we went to TFL, we had four of us working the phones to get a table. Is Alinea as hard? I need to know how many bodies to line up. Thanks for the help!

Edited March 9, 2007 by worldtoughmilkman (log)

[tammylc]

Nowhere near that hard, in my experience. Unless things have changed, the reservation book opens on the first of the month for the month two months out. So, if you want to eat there in May, the reservation book for whole month should already be open.

[yellow truffle]

I will be trying to eat here in mid-may. How hard is it to get a reservation for a weekend. When we went to TFL, we had four of us working the phones to get a table. Is Alinea as hard? I need to know how many bodies to line up. Thanks for the help!

As mid May is two months away, I think you will have a good chance of getting a table on the weekend. Although you may have try a couple times, it is pretty easy to get through to talk to someone to make a reservation. If the date and time that you wish to make your reservation is already booked, you go on a list where you get contacted if someone cancels. IMHO, pretty easy and painless.

Note to self: May is the anniversary month for the restaurant. If it ends up like last year, they may do something special, although I have not officially heard anything as of yet.

[worldtoughmilkman]

I will be trying to eat here in mid-may. How hard is it to get a reservation for a weekend. When we went to TFL, we had four of us working the phones to get a table. Is Alinea as hard? I need to know how many bodies to line up. Thanks for the help!

As mid May is two months away, I think you will have a good chance of getting a table on the weekend. Although you may have try a couple times, it is pretty easy to get through to talk to someone to make a reservation. If the date and time that you wish to make your reservation is already booked, you go on a list where you get contacted if someone cancels. IMHO, pretty easy and painless.

Note to self: May is the anniversary month for the restaurant. If it ends up like last year, they may do something special, although I have not officially heard anything as of yet.

←

8:45 on a Friday night. A veritable breeze compared to TFL. The reservationist asked some very good questions. I am thrilled, as the whole trip was based on eating there. I have been to Chicago before and done Tru several times and Blackbird once. I thought that Blackbird was the cat's ass and would go back in a second. As I said, Alinea is the reason for the trip but would love some other suggestions as our Saturday is wide open at this point. FEED ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[nsxtasy]

I have been to Chicago before and done Tru several times and Blackbird once. I thought that Blackbird was the cat's ass and would go back in a second. As I said, Alinea is the reason for the trip but would love some other suggestions as our Saturday is wide open at this point. FEED ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!

←

To me, there are two basic types of fine dining restaurants in Chicago. For descriptive purposes, I'll call them "formal fine dining" (e.g. Alinea, Tru) and "casual fine dining" (e.g. Blackbird).

The "formal fine dining" category includes the very top chefs in town, doing some of the most creative cuisine around. IMHO here is how I would rank these:

1. Alinea - Grant Achatz - http://www.alinearestaurant.com

2. Everest - Jean Joho - http://www.everestrestaurant.com

3. Avenues - Graham Elliot Bowles - http://chicago.peninsula.com/pch/dining_01.html

4. Charlie Trotter's - Charlie Trotter - http://www.charlietrotter.com/restaurant

5. Tru - Rick Tramonto - http://www.trurestaurant.com

6. NoMi - Christophe David - http://www.nomirestaurant.com

7. Schwa - Michael Carlson - http://www.schwarestaurant.com

8. moto - Homaro Cantu - http://www.motorestaurant.com

9. Spiaggia - Tony Mantuano - http://www.levyrestaurants.com/Levy/Dining...p4/Spiaggia.htm

I might even bump Avenues up to number 2; I'm not sure, since I haven't been there yet and I can only base my ranking of that one on what I've read, but ask me after next weekend.

Despite these "rankings", these are ALL wonderful, top-notch places (in one of the very top restaurant destinations in the country) and you can get a spectacular meal at any of them. Other good places in this formal fine dining category might include Les Nomades and Ambria.

I don't like to rank the "casual fine dining" places, for much the same reason. They all have great food, but, well, they're just more casual, but still with obscenely good food. I'll list my two favorites first, though.

Aigre Doux - http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=99368

One Sixty Blue - http://www.onesixtyblue.com

Blackbird - http://www.blackbird.com

Custom House - http://www.customhouse.cc

Spring - http://www.springrestaurant.net

North Pond - http://www.northpondrestaurant.com

MK - http://www.mkchicago.com

Avec - http://www.avecrestaurant.com

Sola - http://www.solarestaurant.com

Sweets and Savories - http://www.sweetsandsavorieschicago.com

Bistro 110 - http://www.levyrestaurants.com

Coco Pazzo - http://www.cocopazzochicago.com

Red Light - http://www.redlight-chicago.com

X/O - http://www.xochicago.com

(There are many more, but these are some of the more noteworthy ones.)

There are also many excellent seafood restaurants, notably:

Fulton's on the River - http://www.levyrestaurants.com/Levy/Dining...n+the+River.htm

Shaw's Crab House - http://www.shawscrabhouse.com

Hugo's - http://www.hugosfrogbar.com

I assume you're looking in the city only; if not, please say so, as there are more great fine dining places (both formal and casual) in the suburbs (Michael, Oceanique, Vie, Courtright's, Le Francais, Carlos, etc).

Oh, and if you're in the mood for a good steak, we have some excellent steakhouses, of course, in both the city ( C ) and the suburbs (S):

Gibson's (C,S) - http://www.gibsonssteakhouse.com

Morton's (C,S) - http://www.mortons.com

Gene and Georgetti ( C ) - http://www.geneandgeorgetti.com

Saloon ( C ) - http://www.saloonsteakhouse.com

Carson's (C,S) - http://www.ribs.com

Joe's ( C ) - http://www.icon.com/joes

Pete Miller's (S) - http://www.petemillers.com

Wildfire (C,S) - http://www.wildfirerestaurant.com

Keefer's ( C ) - http://www.keefersrestaurant.com

Black Ram (S) - http://www.blackramsteakhouse.com

Capital Grille (C,S) - http://www.thecapitalgrille.com

Smith and Wollensky ( C ) - http://www.smithandwollensky.com

Chicago Chop House ( C ) - http://www.chicagochophouse.com

David Burke's Primehouse ( C ) - http://www.davidburke.com/primehouse.html

Tramonto's Steak and Seafood (S) - http://www.starwoodhotels.com/westin/prope...propertyID=1724

Ruth's Chris (C,S) - http://www.ruthschris.com

Sullivan's (C,S) - http://www.sullivansteakhouse.com

The Palm (C,S) - http://www.thepalm.com

Mike Ditka's ( C ) - http://www.mikeditkaschicago.com

Don Roth's Blackhawk (S) - http://www.theblackhawk.com

Erie Cafe ( C ) - http://www.eriecafe.com

Harry Caray's ( C ) - http://www.harrycarays.com

Stoney River (S) - http://www.stoneyriver.com

You really can't go wrong with any of the places named here.

Edited March 9, 2007 by nsxtasy (log)

[jesteinf]

Um, isn't it a bit presumptive to "rank" a restaurant you've never actually been to?

[nsxtasy]

Um, isn't it a bit presumptive to "rank" a restaurant you've never actually been to?

←

That depends on how much you've heard and from whom, and how much confidence you have in what they've said.

I think it's a lot better than the alternative, which is omitting a place that deserves to be mentioned, especially when listing the top places in town.

Besides, that's why I'm going there next week - so I can speak based on my own first-hand experience.

I haven't been to every single one of those steakhouses, either (most, but not all). That doesn't mean they aren't worth mentioning when listing the good steakhouses in town.

Edited March 9, 2007 by nsxtasy (log)

[jesteinf]

Just trying to protect the quality of the info on the board. I don't think it's helpful (or possible) to offer opionions on restaurants you've never been to. Others would probably differ (I think this might actually be interesting as a seperate topic).

But anyway, back to Alinea...

[nsxtasy]

Nowhere near that hard, in my experience.  Unless things have changed, the reservation book opens on the first of the month for the month two months out.  So, if you want to eat there in May, the reservation book for whole month should already be open.

←

The top tables in Chicago aren't anywhere near as hard to get as places like the French Laundry or the top places in New York, where you must book within an hour of when they open the book, months ahead of time, or you're out of luck.

For example, a brief look at opentable.com shows that right now - on a Sunday - you can book a table this coming Saturday night at Everest, Avenues, Tru, NoMi, moto, and Spiaggia, which are among the most highly regarded restaurants in Chicago. Granted, you can't get them at a prime time like 7:30, but you can still make a reservation for this Saturday night. (All have early reservations available at 5:00 to 6:00, and most have later times at 9:00 to 10:00.) And, of course, they are even easier on other nights of the week.

What's odd is that reservations often book up quicker at a few of the steakhouses (e.g. Wildfire, Gibson's) than our finest dining establishments.

Edited March 11, 2007 by nsxtasy (log)

[docsconz]

I will be trying to eat here in mid-may. How hard is it to get a reservation for a weekend. When we went to TFL, we had four of us working the phones to get a table. Is Alinea as hard? I need to know how many bodies to line up. Thanks for the help!

As mid May is two months away, I think you will have a good chance of getting a table on the weekend. Although you may have try a couple times, it is pretty easy to get through to talk to someone to make a reservation. If the date and time that you wish to make your reservation is already booked, you go on a list where you get contacted if someone cancels. IMHO, pretty easy and painless.

Note to self: May is the anniversary month for the restaurant. If it ends up like last year, they may do something special, although I have not officially heard anything as of yet.

←

8:45 on a Friday night. A veritable breeze compared to TFL. The reservationist asked some very good questions. I am thrilled, as the whole trip was based on eating there. I have been to Chicago before and done Tru several times and Blackbird once. I thought that Blackbird was the cat's ass and would go back in a second. As I said, Alinea is the reason for the trip but would love some other suggestions as our Saturday is wide open at this point. FEED ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!

←

I'm not sure which Friday night you will be going, but if it happens to be Friday, May 4th, that is the actual anniversary of the restaurant. It turns two. Some day, I will have to dine there on that night.

[gfron1]

I hope their festivities carry over - I'm on the books for that Sunday - coming in for the Fancy Food Show.

[molto e]

Food Critic Michael Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle had a meal at Alinea:

Alinea: Is it food or is it art?

In my experience, I would reverse what he said about El Bulli and Alinea.

[docsconz]

Food Critic Michael Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle had a meal at Alinea:

Alinea: Is it food or is it art?

In my experience, I would reverse what he said about El Bulli and Alinea.

←

While I am not sure that I would reverse them, I think the comment in the article was off the mark. Certainly some dishes at Alinea (and elBulli) are better than others flavorwise, I can't say that I have had any where taste and the diner's enjoyment were not the over-riding elements in the conceptualization of the dish.

BTW, thanks for posting the article.

[nsxtasy]

The "formal fine dining" category includes the very top chefs in town, doing some of the most creative cuisine around.  IMHO here is how I would rank these:

1. Alinea - Grant Achatz - http://www.alinearestaurant.com

2. Everest - Jean Joho - http://www.everestrestaurant.com

3. Avenues - Graham Elliot Bowles - http://chicago.peninsula.com/pch/dining_01.html

4. Charlie Trotter's - Charlie Trotter - http://www.charlietrotter.com/restaurant

5. Tru - Rick Tramonto - http://www.trurestaurant.com

6. NoMi - Christophe David - http://www.nomirestaurant.com

7. Schwa - Michael Carlson - http://www.schwarestaurant.com

8. moto - Homaro Cantu - http://www.motorestaurant.com

9. Spiaggia - Tony Mantuano - http://www.levyrestaurants.com/Levy/Dining...p4/Spiaggia.htm

I might even bump Avenues up to number 2; I'm not sure, since I haven't been there yet and I can only base my ranking of that one on what I've read, but ask me after next weekend.  

←

I'll post details about my dinner at Avenues in the topic on Chef Bowles when I get a chance. Suffice it to say that it was absolutely sublime.

As I mentioned previously, ranking these, and trying to draw distinctions between such creative, wonderful places, is not only difficult, but probably not even appropriate. Especially at the very top of the list, where you're talking about some of the best, most creative chefs in the entire country. So, I'm going to leave it at...

1. (tie) Alinea - Grant Achatz - http://www.alinearestaurant.com

1. (tie) Avenues - Graham Elliot Bowles - http://chicago.peninsula.com/pch/dining_01.html

1. (tie) Everest - Jean Joho - http://www.everestrestaurant.com

Edited March 18, 2007 by nsxtasy (log)