eG Foodblog: Chris Amirault (2010) - Holidays in Rhode Island

[janeer]

I don't know where to begin, you have written about so much in a single day (hours?) Maybe by saying that it seems everyone I know (including me) is doing some sort of country French this year. Must be something in the air... I grew up always having egg noodles with daubes, made by my Pennsylvania German grandmother. 1/2" to 5/8" is nice.

While the meat slicer is superb, the pinapple corer/slicer gadget is a revelation to a nongadget person like me who happens to eat tons of fresh pineapple; I am getting one. I do have the same Chicago cutlery boning knife, far superior to my Wusthof one. I've had mine for nearly 30 years.

The bacon is gorgeous (as are your children )

Look forward to hearing/seeing more as the prep progresses

[Chris Amirault]

Thanks!

How long were grandma's noodles?

Back from the market (and a few other places). Downloading photos and will have more soon.

[KD1191]

Has anyone used them for gougeres? Wendy seems skeptical, to say the least, and I can't find any contradictory references there.

I have - they are great!

Do you have a tweaked version of that recipe, Kerry? I have some gruyere awaiting; it is essential to finely cube it or can you grate it?

I've always grated the Gruyère for gougères. However, I had them with crumbled Bleu d'Auvergne at a place in Paris on my last visit and they were spectacular. Will be giving that a try the next time I make them.

Edited December 22, 2010 by KD1191 (log)

[Chris Amirault]

Interesting. I have a bit of Great Hill Blue in the fridge....

[Merridith]

No one seems to have spaetzle makers in town, including four stores and several chefs I contacted. (Those chefs do like their iPhones, though!) Wondering if I can make do with a colander or cheese grater....

Easy way to make spaetzle with out the machine is to find a tool with holes about three times the size of the ones in the sugar/cocoa dredge. The holes need to be about 2mm or so(?). Press the spaetzle dough through the holes, kind of like using a grater (in fact, thats what the spaetzle maker looks a lot like), and voila. I think that Marian Rombauer Becker describes this method in the Joy of Cooking. I will look it up but I am pretty sure this is where I learned to make it that way. You could also use your Moulinex (you know, a food mill thingy) if you have a blade with reasonably large holes. I have even used my potato ricer for this purpose, though this takes a very strong arm and they come out a little fine.

Look here to get an idea of what it is.

[nakji]

What an amazing read so far: curing your own bacon! Sous-viding ducks! Smoking pineapples! That sounds like something Robin would say, actually: "Holy Smoking Pineapples, Batman!"

I can't believe how fat those ducks look, actually - much larger than the skinny ones I'm used to seeing at the markets. And since I guessed correctly that those were prunes (but not Armagnac), I'd like to hear more about the Keemun. I have a small bag in my kitchen from a trip to Anhui province, and I'm pretty sure it's the only red tea I really enjoy. The smoky flavour cuts the sweetness, for me.

[Merridith]

Chris, I share your love of Charcuterie. Once you cure your own bacon, it is difficult to eat any other! I have lust in my heart for your slicer. You must have a real knack for scoring great old stuff. On the duck breasts, are you making ham or prosciutto from these? How are you smoking them?

On the subject of duck, I have 6 leg/thigh portions from Moulard ducks that I just made confit of (using the circulator). I have NO IDEA what to do with them next...I would like to make some kind of dish as a course for my christmas dinner but I am having 18 people. Any suggestions?

Edited December 22, 2010 by Merridith (log)

[weinoo]

Great looking stuff, as always, Chris.

A couple of questions:

Have you tried Intellegentsia Black Cat for your espresso?

I've always kept the skin on when making confit. Do you serve the confit as a leg/thigh portion, or do you remove the meat from the bones and use it in a salad, etc.?

[andiesenji]

For spaetzle I use my trusty ACME "safety" grater

However when I have been unable to find the darn thing, which tends to hide, even when hung in plain sight, I have used one of my cooling racks that has almost the same size grid.

I do have a dedicated spaetzle cutter but it only holds about half a cup of dough and is too slow for me and messy and difficult to clean.

Edited December 22, 2010 by andiesenji (log)

[Chris Amirault]

Thanks, everyone. A spaetzle idea is coming soon.

Catching up:

I'd like to hear more about the Keemun. I have a small bag in my kitchen from a trip to Anhui province, and I'm pretty sure it's the only red tea I really enjoy. The smoky flavour cuts the sweetness, for me.

I agree. It seemed a good choice for the ice cream, slightly savory in the midst of the sweet. I guess we'll find out.

As for tea in general, more on that in a bit.

On the duck breasts, are you making ham or prosciutto from these? How are you smoking them?

It's duck ham, and I'm smoking them in my trusty Bradley smoker that's in the garage. Along with the wok burner, the freezer, the grill, and more. Suburban living: it has its perks.

On the subject of duck, I have 6 leg/thigh portions from Moulard ducks that I just made confit of (using the circulator). I have NO IDEA what to do with them next...I would like to make some kind of dish as a course for my christmas dinner but I am having 18 people. Any suggestions?

CASSOULET!!

Have you tried Intellegentsia Black Cat for your espresso?

No. Should I?

I've always kept the skin on when making confit. Do you serve the confit as a leg/thigh portion, or do you remove the meat from the bones and use it in a salad, etc.?

The latter. This is all going in cassoulet.

[Chris Amirault]

As I mentioned, I swung through Wayland Square to get coffee this morning, home of pal Matt Jennings's (Society member stinkycheeseman) shop/restaurant, La Laiterie/Farmstead. We'll see him later:

Also home to a classic Prov coffee shop/restaurant, Ruffuls:

Then stopped for some coffee:

Kidding! Went to The Edge:

Whenever I'm in line there, I hear Lou Reed singing "I'm Waiting for My Man" in my head. The fix:

[bmdaniel]

Great looking stuff, as always, Chris.

A couple of questions:

Have you tried Intellegentsia Black Cat for your espresso?

I've always kept the skin on when making confit. Do you serve the confit as a leg/thigh portion, or do you remove the meat from the bones and use it in a salad, etc.?

I have tried quite a few espresso blends (black cat, a few of klatch's blends, stumptown hairbender, most of counter culture's blends, espresso vivace's blends, and a few texas roasters). I would recommend anyone try the Vivace Dolce if you haven't - it's my favorite, but obviously it's just personal preference.

You have 23 minutes to get this Spaetzle maker by Thursday from Amazon - only 8 bucks

http://www.amazon.com/Norpro-3128-Spaetzle-Maker/dp/B00004UE89/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1293062886&sr=8-1

Apologies for not knowing how to make a society friendly link.

[andiesenji]

When considering a tea to combine with foods, don't forget about lapsang souchong.

I brew it quite strong and mix with quince or fig jam and cook it a bit to reduce the moisture and get it back to the thick jam consistency.

It is also wonderful for infusing dried cherries as well as plums and prunes, peaches, etc.

The smoky flavor of the jam is absolutely wonderful with strong cheeses.

[Chris Amirault]

Tonight's shopping excursion.

En route to the farmers market, we stopped at Ocean State Job Lot, a RI cut-rate store/institution:

For reasons I cannot comprehend, Job Lot (as it's known 'round these parts) has the biggest selection of Bob's Red Mill products, all on discount. I keep trying to find a fine cornmeal they used to carry, but, alas, not tonight.

Next, we were off to:

This market is pretty darned good, considering New England winters and the small size of Providence. Chef Matt Gennuso of Chez Pascal has, by far, the best food truck in the state, which is always parked outside the market:

Inside, I took a few snaps before the vendors were fully set up. Here's the entire market in long shot, with Bebe holding up a copy of the most recent edition of Edible Rhody (for which I am a regular contributor):

This is where the cash-poor such as I buy market tokens:

A few stalls:

On the way home, we stopped at an old favorite:

Here's the haul: red and yellow onions, eggs, coffee, carrots, garlic, and celeriac from the farmers market:

And from the Chinese American market, pork bellies and shoulder, snacks, gai lan, and... a spaetzle maker???

[Chris Amirault]

Pichet Ong responded to my gougeres query. More from him soon.

[LindaK]

Chris, I am in envy of your winter farmers market. We don't have one in Boston--no empty real estate here that doesn't cost a fortune to lease. So as of last weekend, my farmer sources are gone until spring. And to rub it in, I see Silverbrook Farms, one of my regulars (sets up just outside my office twice a week May-Dec). Excellent microgreens, eggs, jams, and various produce. Does it run all winter?

[janeer]

Thanks!

How long were grandma's noodles?

I want to say about 6", max.

Looking forward to hearing more about the gougeres response from Ong.

You had a busy day!

[weinoo]

Have you tried Intellegentsia Black Cat for your espresso?

No. Should I?

Yes. If you can get it very freshly roasted.

[Chris Amirault]

Chris, I am in envy of your winter farmers market. We don't have one in Boston--no empty real estate here that doesn't cost a fortune to lease. So as of last weekend, my farmer sources are gone until spring. And to rub it in, I see Silverbrook Farms, one of my regulars (sets up just outside my office twice a week May-Dec). Excellent microgreens, eggs, jams, and various produce. Does it run all winter?

Yep: through spring, even: ends May 28, after which the summer/fall markets start.

How long were grandma's noodles?

I want to say about 6", max.

Hrm. I was thinking a bit shorter, but....

[Chris Amirault]

Have you tried Intellegentsia Black Cat for your espresso?

No. Should I?

Yes. If you can get it very freshly roasted.

Next time I go I'll find out about roast dates. I'm usually just another slob in the methadone line....

[Chris Amirault]

Dinner -- as earlier stated, not much to report. Some leftover meatballs and red sauce:

Some Shaw's "Culinary Circle" pasta, which was fine but not in any culinary circle of which I'm aware:

I was short a few balls, so I went to the freezer:

Of the many wonderful things that the Sous Vide Supreme does in my life, defrosting rapidly is among them. I just toss in the bag, wait a few minutes, and presto:

Some grated parmigiano reggiano, a glass of Cusumano Nero D'Avola, and dinner was served.

ETA: The bowl of pasta itself:

Edited December 23, 2010 by Chris Amirault (log)

[lesliec]

Hi Chris. So much blog, so little time ...

If you can handle the (apparently subtle) difference between gougères and beignets, I can recommend the following:

Bring 50g butter, 150ml cold water and 1 tsp sugar to a boil in a saucepan. Add 75g flour all at once and beat well until you have a smooth ball which leaves the sides of the pan clean. Remove from the heat and stir in 50g mature cheddar (or other flavoursome cheesiness of your choice), followed, one at a time, by two eggs. Keep beating until you have a smooth paste; season with salt and pepper. Deep-fry spoonsful of the above for five minutes, or until they're nicely browned and have risen to the top of the oil. Drain on paper towels and keep warm while you deal with the rest. Sprinkle with more cheese - Parmesan works well for me - while still hot.

Good luck.

[Chris Amirault]

Correction

I have been advised that this post incorrectly attributes the origin of the Vacuvin pineapple corer/slicer. Though an earlier edition of the gadget was indeed purchased at a yard sale for a buck, the item shown in the photograph was, in fact, a gift -- from my terrific mother-in-law. This fact has been pointed out to me by my loving wife.

Ahem.

So, in the spirit of honesty and familial harmony, I issue this correction.

Back to the foodblog.

[Chris Amirault]

Thanks, Leslie:

Deep-fry spoonsful of the above for five minutes, or until they're nicely browned and have risen to the top of the oil. ...

Sadly, my deep fryer is on the fritz, and I'm not going to be able to free up stovetop space for a dutch oven filled with oil. Gotta go the oven route.

[Shelby]

Correction

I have been advised that this post incorrectly attributes the origin of the Vacuvin pineapple corer/slicer. Though an earlier edition of the gadget was indeed purchased at a yard sale for a buck, the item shown in the photograph was, in fact, a gift -- from my terrific mother-in-law. This fact has been pointed out to me by my loving wife.

Ahem.

So, in the spirit of honesty and familial harmony, I issue this correction.

Back to the foodblog.

Awwwww, hell, why screw up a good story with facts?