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TN: Some notes


Florida Jim

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2006 Do Ferrreiro, Rebisaca:

75% albariño, 25% treixadura, fermented in stainless and aged 7 mos. on the lees; for those of you who sail, this is the motor-sailer of the boating world – has parts of both motorboat and sailboat and does neither justice; that said, its crisp, clean, pleasant and would be a great accompaniment to shell fish. But it doesn’t work for me as I like both grapes just not in the same bottle; I’ll stick with the straight version of either grape and use it accordingly.

1999 Dom. de Courcel, Pommard Grand Clos des Épenots:

A meaty, smoky, tannic wine but with enough fruit to carry the phenolics; smells like Sonoma Coast pinot but tastes more like Burgundy, more dirt driven in the mouth and with sufficient intensity and promise to make me think several years are needed – but a peculiar showing and one that makes me think I should revisit some of the domestic pinots I haven’t tried in years – those without all the sweet fruit and so much alcohol.

2001 Sella, Lessona:

The fine folks at Astor in NYC put this on sale for $17 and I bought a box – Asimov should put this one on his ‘best values from Italy’ list. Clean, nuanced nebbiolo smells and flavors; an elegant, dry presentation and that attractive earthy profile that this producer seems to capture regularly. A wine that was made to accompany your dinner – not for cocktails nor starters nor any other purpose – and it fits that role as well any bottle could. Very good and ready now, although there is no rush.

2000 Huet, Vouvray Demi-sec Clos du Bourg:

Light golden color; a nose of cake-icing, flint, apples and hay – interesting; still a little sweet for me but some of the sugary quality has dissipated, flavors that echo the nose, good intensity and a long, mouthwatering finish. Not much sense of place but this is a young, unformed wine that appears to be moving in the right direction and has plenty of stuffing and good balance, so I suspect it will continue to improve with cellaring. Hold.

1999 Cristom, Pinot Noir Marjorie Vnyd.:

Youthful in its grip and intensity and yet, there is a developed depth here - strong black cherry smells and flavors with lifted ever so slightly vegetal accents and nuances in the brown spice range; cinnamon, clove, star anise, etc. – not as complex as some aged pinots and more masculine than some but also quite well balanced with a presence that isn’t all that common. Very Oregon and it has lots of life left – but one could do worse than enjoying it now.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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