Eating in Paris in November

[dfunghi]

Well as the Fall approaches I have made my plans for a (long overdue) Paris visit. I suppose my hesitation all these years has been two fold. One is I can never find enough time to visit Paris they way I would like and two, my fear of never wanting to leave Paris.

So armed wit last years notes I have rented a Flat in the 6th for 5 nights in early November after the completion of a three week business trip to Italy. No 6 hour layovers. My wife will be joining me.

I have been perusing the threads here and am trying to hone in on a couple of bistros and may very well forgo the Michelin starred restaurants due to expense, lack of proper attire and reservations. I am still on the hunt for great country style cooking and there seems to be a movement in the bistro world towards new, advanced cooking of old standby dishes. That sounds exciting to me. If one wanted to have that one outstanding meal in a 1 or 2 star or a no star like Sendere (sp?) is it too late to book now for early November? Do I need a jacket and tie? Is 350 Euros realistic?

I will post my choices here soon and open them up to discussion- criticism- advice. I still plan to go to markets (nearly every day) and still want to score some great duck and goose products to bring home. I prefer some of the smaller producers from the Dordogne if anyone is aware of anyone in particular or a shop that may carry some.

Lastly let me add that although I speak some Italian I really have no French skills. How much of a problem will this present in smaller, off the beaten path, type of places? I have travelled in France a few times with no real problems, I can read a French menu for the most part and always begin each conversation with bon juor pardonnez me, je ne parle pas français vous parle anglais? In fact I can say "I do not speak (fill in the blank)" in many languages. I find it goes a long way if you start with the assumption that you are the one in a foreign country and not speaking the language is your problem not theirs. Polite, apologetic and understanding go a long way.

[julot-les-pinceaux]

It's rather a bit early to book now for early november -- but actually, it never is, just book now and they'll tell you if you need to call back later.

For Senderens, I always think it's a great idea if you chose wisely (and I'm happy to offer personalised advice, just email me) and 350 for two is largely enough unless you have some very high end wines envies. See for instance: http://www.julotlespinceaux.com/2007/09/se...and-erotic.html

Edited August 27, 2008 by julot-les-pinceaux (log)

[Felice]

Well as the Fall approaches I have made my plans for a (long overdue) Paris visit. I suppose my hesitation all these years has been two fold. One is I can never find enough time to visit Paris they way I would like and two, my fear of never wanting to leave Paris.

Lastly let me add that although I speak some Italian I really have no French skills. How much of a problem will this present in smaller, off the beaten path, type of places? I have travelled in France a few times with no real problems, I can read a French menu for the most part and always begin each conversation with  bon juor pardonnez me, je ne parle pas français vous parle anglais? In fact I can say "I do not speak (fill in the blank)" in many languages. I find it goes a long way if you start with the assumption that you are the one in a foreign country and not speaking the language is your problem not theirs. Polite, apologetic and understanding go a long way.

←

It seems to me from what you have written here, that you will have no problem getting by, even in smaller off the beaten track places. As long as you don't just start out by rattling off in English, I think most people are happy to work with you, even if their English is limited. It's only the people who shout loudly in English and assume everyone should speak it, who have problems.

[robyn]

Senderens gave up his 3 stars - but Michelin gave him back 2 .

If it is an issue of expense - many restaurants - at all price and quality levels - have relatively inexpensive lunches (50% or less than dinner prices). E.g., Guy Savoy (3 star) is continuing its internet 100 euro lunch this fall.

As far as attire goes - I am a "when in Rome" person. Many restaurants in large cities - including Paris - cater to business people - and the dress of their customers will depend in part on what types of business people dine there. Lawyers and bankers will dress more conservatively than people in more creative fields. But Paris is - above all - fashionable. A six foot tall model may be able to carry off a pair of $300 jeans - a cashmere sweater - and a leather jacket - even in a very fancy restaurant. But if I tried to do that - I would look like an idiot tourist. For a guy - I would recommend at least one suit and a tie. If you don't usually wear suits - there are some very reasonably priced "suit separates" for sale in the stores these days (quite a few in "travel fabrics"). If you do the pants and the jacket in navy - you can pretty much dress things up or down as necessary. I wouldn't let the lack of a jacket and tie get between me and a great meal.

When it comes to getting by in restaurants in any country - in any language - a few basic phrases are all you need *as long as you can read the menus* (assuming you are not dealing with a country like Japan - which has lots of "plastic food" restaurants). Unless you can read the menus with some degree of comprehension (well I know this is "duck" - but how is it prepared?) - you'll be lost - or at least surprised by what you've ordered on more than a few occasions. FWIW - I have a few old menu readers - and although I have looked for newer zippier ones - I can't find any. The best one I have was written by Al Ellison in the 70's. It is out of print - and if you search around for a while - it is possible to pick up a copy for about $10. Spend some time on the internet reading French menus - and look up what you don't understand. Robyn

Edited September 3, 2008 by robyn (log)