Jovan's Place

[KatieLoeb]

I'm surprised this place doesn't already have a thread of it's own, but here goes. A tiny former corner taproom in greater Port Fishington, at the corner of York and Memphis Streets. Four blocks down from Memphis Taproom. A few short blocks off of Aramingo Ave. Who knew???

We LOVE this place. My new favorite ethinic eatery in town. Homemade Eastern European fare that is so fresh it takes a while to come to the table, because the chef is butchering everything to order. Mindblowing.

Holly was kind enough to accompany me here this evening on a reconnaissance mission for some authentic Yugoslavian fare. We weren't disappointed. It's a lot like eating at Grandma's if your Grandma is from Belgrade. We started with a plate of the steamed mussels. Apologies for the bad lighting and cell phone pics and also because these were half gone before we remembered to take the picture:

Garlicky and delicious. With good Sarcone's bread to dip in the sauce. Nothing is delivered to Jovan's. They go out every single day and pick up fresh produce and bread for that evening's meals. That's a lot of work for a small corner tap room, but Jovan assured us that he doesn't want to serve anything he wouldn't want to eat himself. His dedication is admirable.

I ordered the Stuffed Cabbage.

Note the absence of the usual sweet-n-sour tomato type sauce. These are made from freshly pickled cabbage leaves stuffed with ground pork, veal, rice and peppers. The pickling makes the cabbage leaves really tender and without the usual al dente texture of the more common recipe preparations made in the Polish or Jewish style that I am accustomed to. This is more like a cross between stuffed cabbage and sauerkraut and is really tasty and interesting.

Holly had to try the freshly made Wienerschnitzel. It was worth the wait.

I haven't seen such a lovely schnitzel since my last trip to Vienna. It was a work of art. And really delicious. Both our plates came with spinach mashed potatoes and an array of other fresh veggies like string beans, corn and carrots. Everything fresh, perfectly cooked and delicious.

The family that owns the place couldn't possibly be any nicer or more welcoming. I felt like part of the family by the time we left. And if you're offered some of the secret stash of fruit liqueurs that they make in house, don't question it and just say yes.. A little shot of a lovely pear liqueur after dinner is quite an excellent digestif. It's called Kruškovac, and you'd better believe next time I'm there I'm going early and getting the Mrs. to show me how she makes that stuff. Yowza! My mind reels with cocktail possibilities. Apparently there is also cherry or blackberry liqueurs when in season. Oh yeah. I need some schoolin' on how this stuff comes to be.

It won't be long before I get back to Jovan's. I still need to try the Goulash! And the soups! And apparently their Chicken sandwiches are legendary. I can hardly wait. YUM!

[michael_g]

I'm surprised this place doesn't already have a thread of it's own, but here goes.  A tiny former corner taproom in greater Port Fishington, at the corner of York and Memphis Streets.  Four blocks down from Memphis Taproom.  A few short blocks off of Aramingo Ave.  Who knew???

The folks at Philly Brewing Company were recommending this place very highly when we stopped by for a tour (and to pick up our winnings -- two cases! -- from a quizzo during beer week). We ended up heading back to South Philly and getting two pizzas from Slice, but your description and these pictures are making me regret it...

Slightly OT question: that wienerschnitzel is rolled, like chicken po Kievsky -- is that standard? The (Jewish, chicken) schnitzels of my youth were always flat.

[Andrew Fenton]

Slightly OT question: that wienerschnitzel is rolled, like chicken po Kievsky -- is that standard?  The (Jewish, chicken) schnitzels of my youth were always flat.

I was wondering the same thing; I've never seen a rolled schnitzel, either. Looks good, though!

[Holly Moore]

Holly was kind enough to accompany me here this evening on a reconnaissance mission for some authentic Yugoslavian fare.

Yeah, like Katie really had to twist my arm.

I've had rolled schnitzel before in Germany and maybe Czechoslovakia - when it has been stuffed, and flat when it hasn't. This was as good as any I've had, though I think I may have liked Katie's stuffed cabbage even more.

The attitude of this place is pure Europe. The mother and father cook - the father, Jovan also butchers - a craft he learned in Yugoslavia many years ago, working three years for free to learn the trade. Since then he has worked both sides of the ocean in slaughterhouses, meat processing plants and restaurants. With his wife they ran a small stand in Austria, I think. He would slaughter and butcher the meat every morning, she then sold it.

At Jovan's Place, there is the same commitment to freshness. Every day they go to their butcher and produce market. They pick only the best. Everything is fresh daily and cooked to order. (Anyone want to write an investigative article - research how many of Philadelphia's top chefs are up early every morning selecting their perishables at local markets.)

Their son, Joe, runs the dining room, a fantastic host. Non food highpoint of our meal had to have been when he balanced his young son - I'm guessing somewhere around two - on his hand, and the kid proceeded to strike an Olympian pose.

This place out-Taconelli's, Taconelli's for making guests part of the family.

I'm with Katy on Jovan - as good as everything was, I'm thinking the bean soup or the chicken noodle soup - or the Goulash - or their famous chicken sandwich might be even better. I'm heading back on a regular basis.

Jovan's Place

2327 East York St.

215-634-3330

[KatieLoeb]

The schnitzels in my past have always been pounded flat wagon wheel sized breaded and fried pork or veal cutlets. But the rolled and stuffed one is a thing of great beauty. And flavor.

The couple at the next table highly recommended the chicken fingers, which Jovan explained to us he also cuts to order. The food here takes a little while to come out. Not a place to go when you're in a hurry. But it's all worth the wait.

Their son, Joe, runs the dining room, a fantastic host. Non food highpoint of our meal had to have been when he balanced his young son - I'm guessing somewhere around two - on his hand, and the kid proceeded to strike an Olympian pose.

Baby Vito is cherubic in every way. Straight out of a Renaissance painting with the blond curls and all. He will undoubtedly be a member of the Olympic gymnastics team in 2024. Big brother is a bit less of an extrovert, but is quite charming as well. The whole family is in attendance and couldn't be more gracious. Loads of fun and much like being a guest in their home.

[mattohara]

The folks at Philly Brewing Company were recommending this place very highly when we stopped by for a tour (and to pick up our winnings -- two cases! -- from a quizzo during beer week). 

i think my roommate was at that same quizzo. he won a single case. around south and 3rd?

[KatieLoeb]

Where he won the case, or where he has to go to collect it? Not sure where you're referring.

[Andrew Fenton]

Their son, Joe, runs the dining room, a fantastic host. Non food highpoint of our meal had to have been when he balanced his young son - I'm guessing somewhere around two - on his hand, and the kid proceeded to strike an Olympian pose.

Baby Vito is cherubic in every way. Straight out of a Renaissance painting with the blond curls and all. He will undoubtedly be a member of the Olympic gymnastics team in 2024. Big brother is a bit less of an extrovert, but is quite charming as well. The whole family is in attendance and couldn't be more gracious. Loads of fun and much like being a guest in their home.

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Hmm, I'm guessing that with Young Hercules in attendance, this would be a pretty good place to bring my own rugrat along? Kid's gotta learn about stuffed cabbage sometime...

[michael_g]

The folks at Philly Brewing Company were recommending this place very highly when we stopped by for a tour (and to pick up our winnings -- two cases! -- from a quizzo during beer week). 

i think my roommate was at that same quizzo. he won a single case. around south and 3rd?

Ours was at the Khyber, 2nd and Chestnut. No one else won a case -- if I may say so, my beer-loving friends and I rolled the competition by a wide margin.

We picked up the cases at the brewery. The prize was supposed to be a single case, but they threw in an extra one for kicks. N.B.: don't go for a noon PBC brewery tour without breakfast, unless you like finding yourself helplessly giddy around 4:30pm.

Back on topic: I know that Philly gulleteers sometimes head to Chinatown as a group -- any interest in a junta to Jovan's?

[KatieLoeb]

Back on topic: I know that Philly gulleteers sometimes head to Chinatown as a group -- any interest in a junta to Jovan's?

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I'd certainly be up for that, but it would have to be on a Sunday or Tuesday so I could make it. They're closed Mondays, my other night off. Anytime Sunday or Tuesday from 7/27 onward. Not that it's all about me or anything.

[Jeff L]

I ordered the Stuffed Cabbage.

Note the absence of the usual sweet-n-sour tomato type sauce.  These are made from freshly pickled cabbage leaves stuffed with ground pork, veal, rice and peppers.  The pickling makes the cabbage leaves really tender and without the usual al dente texture of the more common recipe preparations made in the Polish or Jewish style that I am accustomed to.  This is more like a cross between stuffed cabbage and sauerkraut and is really tasty and interesting.

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Aside from the sauce, how do these compare with Krakus market fresh stuffed cabbage?

Edited July 10, 2008 by gfron1 (log)

[Jeff L]

Back on topic: I know that Philly gulleteers sometimes head to Chinatown as a group -- any interest in a junta to Jovan's?

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I'd certainly be up for that, but it would have to be on a Sunday or Tuesday so I could make it. They're closed Mondays, my other night off. Anytime Sunday or Tuesday from 7/27 onward. Not that it's all about me or anything.

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Some upcoming Tuesday might work for me, I'd like to try it based on the comments

[KatieLoeb]

I ordered the Stuffed Cabbage.

Note the absence of the usual sweet-n-sour tomato type sauce.  These are made from freshly pickled cabbage leaves stuffed with ground pork, veal, rice and peppers.  The pickling makes the cabbage leaves really tender and without the usual al dente texture of the more common recipe preparations made in the Polish or Jewish style that I am accustomed to.  This is more like a cross between stuffed cabbage and sauerkraut and is really tasty and interesting.

Aside from the sauce, how do these compare with Krakus market fresh stuffed cabbage?

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I haven't tried the stuffed cabbage from Krakus, so I can't really say. I usually just buy pierogies when I go there as well as mustards, teas and other dry goods. I'll check those out sometime soon, though. I loves me some galumpkies!

[Jeff L]

I haven't tried the stuffed cabbage from Krakus, so I can't really say.  I usually just buy pierogies when I go there as well as mustards, teas and other dry goods.  I'll check those out sometime soon, though.  I loves me some galumpkies!

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They are really excellent. I brought home a bunch recently and gave some to a buddy's dad who grew up in the Port Richmond area and he asked me how they got his grandmother's recipe!

If you do try them, stay away from the frozen ones and ask them to make them fresh for you. They cost about $1.50 each, I usually get 20 of them

[michael_g]

Back on topic: I know that Philly gulleteers sometimes head to Chinatown as a group -- any interest in a junta to Jovan's?

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I'd certainly be up for that, but it would have to be on a Sunday or Tuesday so I could make it. They're closed Mondays, my other night off. Anytime Sunday or Tuesday from 7/27 onward. Not that it's all about me or anything.

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Some upcoming Tuesday might work for me, I'd like to try it based on the comments

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Sunday's better for me -- Tuesday is my quizzo night...

[Holly Moore]

Mmmmm, chicken sandwich good. Very good. Probably the best in Philadelphia.

Sarcone's bread picked up every morning at the bakery. Chicken pan sauteed to order in extra virgin olive oil and minced garlic, aged provolone, Dijon mustard, sliced onion, lettuce, and, if you assure Jovan's wife that you are not all that worried about the big tomato panic, sliced tomato from her secret cache.

[KatieLoeb]

Oh. My. God. That looks amazing!

A new entrant into the not-a-cheesesteak-and-a-way-better-sandwich contest? Looks like a winner to me. Must have one of these as soon as I get back.

[KatieLoeb]

David Snyder at City Paper has discovered our clandestine spot for Slavic cuisine:

Love Slav

His assessment is similar to ours.

I have to get back here ASAP, before it's impossible to get in...