One great Friday night in Cleveland

[jsmeeker]

I've never been to Cleveland before** Never gave much thought to going. I read about Michael Symon in Michael Ruhlman's "Soul of a Chef". But didn't think too much about it at the time. But I continued to hear things about him and Lola. Then, I saw the Cleveland episode of Bourdain's "No Reservations". I started to read Ruhlman's blog, too. That's where I learned about the Velvet Tango Room. I had been on a cocktail kick for a while (thanks to eGullet), and I was very intrigued. I started to think "I gotta figure out how to justify a trip to Cleveland". Then, one day, the justifaction came up, and I was set.

Arrived at CLE late Friday afternoon. My friends that lived in Cleveland, (they were familair with both Lola/Lolita and VTR, having been to both a few times) picked me up. Headed straight downtown from the airport. Got to the area where the restaurant is. Lots of activity. Cavs had a home game that night. We popped in briefly into Lola, asking if it was possible to be seated a little early. They said they would try. We headed down the street a few doors to a bar. Can't recall the name. Settled in for a round or two of drinks while waiting.

Back to Lola, it was maybe around 6:30 or so by this time. They were able to seat us then. Perfect. We were led to a nice 4 top (we were a party of three) that had a great view of the open kitchen. From there, everything was great. Friendly, excited server. My friend informed her I was from out of town and came all the way to Cleveland to eat here. He asked if Michael was in tonight. She said she hadn't seen him tonight, but that he sometimes goes back and forth between Lola or Lolita. That, or maybe he wasn't even in town. Anyway, no big deal.

We started off ordering appetizers and entrees. Shortly after placing our oder, the amuse bouche arrived. a "ham and cheese sandwich", it was called. And really, that's what it was. a tiny open face ham and cheese sandwich.

For apps, we had beef cheek perogies, the charcuterie plate, and also a pear and apple salad. All were excellent, especially the perogies. Very delicious. Very richly flavored. The restaurant was packed. The place was hopping. We really enjoyed seeing all the action in the kitchen.

After a wait, our entrees arrived. I ordered the duck. My friend Mark ordered the pork chop, and his wife Karen ordered the arctic char. My duck was roasted breast plus a confited leg. Very, very good. The pork chop had been smoked at some point during it's preperation and there was a distinct smoky smell and taste to it. Distinct in a good way. I don't think I've ever tried anything quite like it before. The char was very nice, too. Super crisp skin with the flesh cooked to order.

On to dessert. Mark and I both ordered the famous "6:00 AM Special". Karen ordered a chocolate cake. The "special" was a great end. I had never had ice cream with bacon in it, but here was my chance. It's described as maple-bacon ice cream, and there was ample maple flavor to it. Almost like super thick and creamy maple syrup. But not super sweet. The bacon seem to add mostly a texture contrast to the smooth ice cream. Not distinctly bacony in the way I am used to. Still, the ice cream part was very good, as was the french toast part underneath. The chocolate cake was a pretty solid example of the molten chocolate cake. Rich. Not too sweet. Some coffee to go with dinner rounded off a great meal. Check came with some little squares of raspberry gelee. We settled up the bill and we were done.

Fantastic. It really was everything I was hoping for in my visit. And not nearly as rough on the wallet had I had the same meal in many other cities. 3 apps. 3 entress. 3 desserts. bottle of wine. a couple of coffees and a cappacuino. I think it was well under $300 prior to tip.

We headed out, retrieved the car from the valet, and headed to the next destination in my Cleveland culinary adventure. The Velvet Tango Room.

One nice thing about this was doing it with my friends Mark and Karen was that they were already familiar with both places. Made it a lot easier than if I was doing it on my own, or with people not familair. No arm twisting needed here. They are into this sort of thing about as much as I am.

It's a pretty quick drive from Lola. We easily found a parking spot on the street. I looked out the window of the car and there it was. The little pink neon sign "Velvet Tango Room". We walked in. Not very crowded up front in the bar. Piano playing from the small room away from the bar. There were several open seats AT the bar, so that's where I headed. I just had to sit there and see the action up close. A warm greeting made us feel right at home.

Cocktail menus were presented. It was time to decide what to have. I went with a Pisco Sour. Mark still had not decided, and Karen wasn't drinking, so she initially requested only water. Our bartnender started to make.... no, not make... craft. The bartender started to craft my Pisco Sour. Pisco. Juice from a lemon squeezed before my eyes. Simple syrup. All carefully measured. Big ice cubes. Then, the egg white. Tapped gently on the pointed end. A piece came off, and the white was simply poured right in. Then, it was time to shake it. and shake. And shake. Finally, it was ready. Poured into a glass. A few drops of bitters added to the foamy "head", along with a light dusting of cinnamon. Up to my lips with the drink. Smelled the cinnamon and bitters. Then took a sip. Incredible. really delicious.

In the meantime, Mark had decided on a Manhattan. I convinced him to get it with rye. Another bartender conviced Karen to get a root beer float. She agreed. (a girl can have two desserts in one night, can't she?? ) They started to work on those drinks while I continued to enjoy my fabulous Pisco Sour. The Manhattan was made with their own in house made vermouth and bitters (and Old Overholt for the rye, IIRC) It was much darker in color than any Manhattan I had seen before. I am guessing this was from the special vermouth. I got a little taste. It was excellent. The root beer float was made wit house made vanilla gelato and house made root beer. Very, very tasty.

All the while, I was causally chatting with the bartenders about how they were making drinks, ingredients, etc. etc. Vrey freindly and eager to talk about their craft. It came time for a second round for Mark and I. He ordered, if I remember right, a whisky sour, and I went with a Negroni. The bartender asked me if I wanted it the house way and told them of course. The house made vermouth, plus some orange bitters and a flamed orange peel really made a big difference. Made normally, the Negroni is to die for. But this one was at a whole new level. As we were enjoying the second round, Paulius came over and spied my glass.. "Something red here..." "A Negroni", I replied. He seemed very pleased. He stopped and said hello. Introduced himself. We chatted briefly. told what we had been drinking. Then me mentioned a drink called a Smoking Chartreuse. I had never heard of it. So, he asked the bartender to make one. It's Green Chartreuse, Lillet, and a really peaty scotch. This drink was VERY interesting, to say the least. And it really was smoky. Karen didn't care for this at all. I don't think mark like it much, either. But I found it interesting enough to finish it off. And with that, we finished off our drinks, settled up the tab, and were off into the cool, November evening.

I had one night in Cleveland, and I think I spend it pretty much the best way possible.

**Ok, that's not totally true. I may have flown into Cleveland once or twice many, many years ago to visit grandparents that lived in Erie).

[rockandroller]

What a great story of your trip, I'm so glad you got to visit two of our best gems, Lola and VTR. We hope you are able to craft many reasons to return!

[edsel]

I had one night in Cleveland, and I think I spend it pretty much the best way possible.    ←

Sounds like it! Thanks for sharing with us.

A couple of comments about your Lola experience.

The desserts are by Lola's pastry chef Cory Barrett. Ruhlman scolded Symon for making bacon ice cream on the first episode of Next Iron Chef America. Seems there's a downside to knowing one of the judges. (BTW, Besh also made something that his PC does, but didn't get busted on it.) That dessert was on the menu when the new Lola opened and is the only thing they seem to keep perpetually.

As to finding Michael Symon in the house, he recently posted a "not set-in-stone" schedule on a local forum.

Monday - Lola

Tuesday - Lolita

Wednesday - Lola

Thursday - Lola

Friday - Lola, then Lolita

Saturday - Lola, then Lolita

Sunday - Lolita

workaholic much?

Glad you made it to VTR. The Tango Manhattan (the one with their special vermouth) is one of my favorites.

[nsxtasy]

We get a lot of good food here in Chicago, and I've been enjoying some of our best places the past few weeks (one sixtyblue, North Pond, Vie, Flamingo's, Lou Malnati's). But I'm still jonesing for those beef cheek perogies at Lola during the Heartland Gathering last July; they were pure heaven! And their strawberry mascarpone shortcake for dessert was sooooo wonderful, too...