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TN: Austria, France, Italy


Florida Jim

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Stir fry veggies and chicken with rice noodles and spicy peanut sauce:

1999 Alzinger, Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg:

The last time I had this was two years ago and it was pretty angry and acidic then; not so now as this was really a complete wine despite still showing young; the RS is minimal here so the fruit and terroir show through, the structure balances perfectly with the flavors – and it is remarkably long. A number of Austrian rieslings I’ve tasted of late (all from good vintages, producers and vineyards) have been too sweet for me and that profile seems to obscure the complexity that I was so drawn to in these wines on release and that this bottle delivers. I suppose it’s like anything else; we get into a region’s wines and, over the years, we start to weed-out producers that we don’t like as much as others. I think Alzinger is now one of those on my short list; his wines are pretty tough to cozy up to when released but really come on later in life. 13% alcohol, imported by M. Skurnik and about $27 on release; I’d buy it again.

As expected, it went quite well with the dish and did not pale against the spiciness nor overwhelm the delicate flavors of the veggies.

Tomato/carrot soup and chicken and mushroom sausages:

2005 Dom. de la Voûte des Crozes (Nicole Chanrion), Côte de Brouilly:

Should anyone want to know what very well-made, Côte de Brouilly should taste like, I suggest buying a bottle. A beautiful, harmonious, wine that is perfectly of its place. 13% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $15 on release; under priced by quite some.

Excellent with the meal and so lovely against the sausages.

Nan pizza (sautéed veggies, goat cheese, artichoke bottoms and homemade tomato sauce – Nan makes for a very crisp crust)

2004 Giacosa, Barbera d’Alba:

Berries and musky, dark chocolate scents and flavors with some spice and earth accents; crisp in the mouth with good integration and balance; medium length, mouth-watering finish. Plenty of cut in this wine but ample flavor and nuance. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Locascio and about $24; not being a big fan of Barbera, this is one of the few I’d buy again.

Went very well with the pizza as it cut the tomato sauce and cheese but did not drown out or fight with the artichoke and vegetable flavors. A good match.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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