TN: Outer Banks wines

[Florida Jim]

We spent several days with friends at the Outer Banks, in the town of Hatteras. I think it is safe to say that I am pleased to have seen it and never need to again. What once was a serious of quaint fishing villages are now acres upon acres of 6 bedroom “beach houses.”

But the trip did three good things: it reminded me of the beaches of northeastern Florida, especially around St. Augustine, and rekindled my desire to go there (fortunately, they’re closer); it gave me a chance to eat the freshest seafood I have had in years; and, I got to drink some nice wine with some nice people.

Quick takes on the wines:

2002 Allemand, Cornas: closing down; this may be an early drinker but it isn’t now.

2005 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie ‘Cuvee Tardive:’ Ah yes, no, make that AH YES! There is a reason I buy I case of this every year; showing quite well with years to go.

2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos: Complicated wine – sometimes generous, sometimes sneaking around on your palate, and every fourth or fifth sip, just great. Heaven knows where it’s going but I’m glad I’m along for the ride.

1992 Fonseca, Port: Stupid young. And as it so happens, it will get you stoopid.

2004 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: Cherries and dust; like a Greg Brown song when he’s happy (he is happy sometimes, isn’t he?).

2002 Huet, Vouvray Demi-sec ‘Le Haut Lieu:’ God awful. This might wind-up being great when I’m dead but it plain sucks now. Not what I expected – down the drain.

2000 J.P. Droin, Chablis ‘Vaudesir:’ Excellent upon opening with a floral note that just captured all your attention and focused it on the forthcoming plunge into minerals and citrus – but then the oak started to come into it and it became simply a good wine.

2004 and 2005 Dom. Pepiere, Muscadet ‘Clos des Briords:’ Any one who likes crisp and flavorful wine should seriously consider buying cases of these wines. Its cheap, it’s superb and it’s that way every vintage.

2001 Colloquy, Pinot Noir: This is the effort of the Westcoast Wine Network project from the Russian River Valley – well, it ain’t Burgundy but if more Russian River producers made wine like this, I’d buy it. A real sense of character and place with ripe fruit and good intensity – and excellent acidity. I would never have thought it but I am pleasantly surprised.

2006 Dry Stack Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc ‘Rosemary’s Block:’ We had this with fresh swordfish (as in caught within the hour) and it was the pairing I most enjoyed the whole week. The power of the wine was absolutely perfect with the richness of the fish. A meal I would love to repeat but that was my last bottle and we ain’t catchin’ swordfish in the mountains.

2005 Janesse, Cotes du Rhone: Nice grenache – those of you who know me know exactly what that means.

2004 Palacios, Bierzo ‘Petalos:’ Not its finest hour; I think these were probably made to drink younger and I will finish my remaining bottles quickly.

Best, Jim