[Houston] Beaver's

[JimH]

White Oak, specifically Post Oak is what they use in C.T. BBQ. I'm just as happy with Pecan, though a lot of people complain that it's too strong for long smoke sessions. I've tried Maple, Cherry, Pear etc but keep going back to Pecan. Red Oak is supposed to be good with ribs but I've never tried it. Maple is good with chicken (hard Maple being better than soft Maple) and makes a great bed of coals for hot grilling anything. I try to use Mesquite but it's so dense and resinous finding it properly seasoned for smoking is tough. Pecan is so plentiful around here so why not use it? I guess White Oak is too and it burns hotter so maybe I should experiment with it more. I'm sorry, sometimes I just ramble on and on...

[Morgan_Weber]

Allison Cook's review in the Chronicle.

Congrats Dax & Bobby on some nice words.

[Kevin72]

Good review. Sounds like they're smoothing out the inconsistencies.

[brucesw]

I'm actually more excited about a sign that I passed on White Oak just before Studewood.  It said "Opening Soon.  Fried Chicken and Soul Food."  Wow, real fried chicken would be awesome.

Whatever happened to this place? Name? I'm salivating for some fried chicken and don't think I can wait until Easter.

[Kerr.]

I'm actually more excited about a sign that I passed on White Oak just before Studewood.  It said "Opening Soon.  Fried Chicken and Soul Food."  Wow, real fried chicken would be awesome.

Whatever happened to this place? Name? I'm salivating for some fried chicken and don't think I can wait until Easter.

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Bruce,

The story I heard is that sign was put up by the owner of Onion Creek (who happens to be African-American). Apparently, he was receiving too much perceived criticism from somebody across the street. So he put up that sign as a slap in the face back at his nemesis. There is no fried chicken & soul food joint opening up there (as much as I would like there to be one!).

However he is opening up a new restaurant somewhere Yale & 25th?? Due to open in a few months. I don't know the name or exact location.

For fried chicken, I remain a Frenchy's fan.

[brucesw]

Thanks, Kerr. Bummer. b4 has a listing for The Big Mamou on Studewood @ 9th, opening soon. I was thinking maybe that was going to be it.

I have 2 Frenchy's within a couple of miles of me. Seems the pieces have gotten very small and the chicken is greasier. Maybe I need to keep driving over to Scott.

Best FC I've had in a long time came with Enchiladas Rojos con Pollo at a taqueria on Business 146 in Baytown. Dark amber, with a crispy and chewy crust, sort of like a cross between chicharron and chicken, very moist inside. Like Pollo Campero but better.

I've been having to make trips over to Baytown but haven't been in a couple of weeks. I want to order the Pollo Frito and see if it was just a fluke.

Taqueria el Sol de Mexico was the place and according to the menu there are 6 around the area. I tried another one on Wilcrest next to Lopez but they didn't have the pollo frito and what I got was very mediocre Tex-Mex (er, Gringo-Mex), nothing like what I got in Baytown.

[bmdaniel]

Thanks, Kerr.  Bummer.  b4 has a listing for The Big Mamou on Studewood @ 9th, opening soon.  I was thinking maybe that was going to be it.

I have 2 Frenchy's within a couple of miles of me.  Seems the pieces have gotten very small and the chicken is greasier.  Maybe I need to keep driving over to Scott.

Best FC I've had in a long time came with Enchiladas Rojos con Pollo at a taqueria on Business 146 in Baytown.  Dark amber, with a crispy and chewy crust, sort of like a cross between chicharron and chicken, very moist inside.  Like Pollo Campero but better.

I've been having to make trips over to Baytown but haven't been in a couple of weeks.  I want to order the Pollo Frito and see if it was just a fluke.

Taqueria el Sol de Mexico was the place and according to the menu there are 6 around the area.  I tried another one on Wilcrest next to Lopez but they didn't have the pollo frito and what I got was very mediocre Tex-Mex (er, Gringo-Mex), nothing like what I got in Baytown.

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Big Mamou is on Studewood pretty near white oak - I think it's supposed to be primarily cajun. It's been opening soon for months now without any real action, so I don't know what the deal is.

[FoodMan]

The Chronicle had a really cool article about Beaver's, mainly about their uber-mixologist Bobby. I am hoping to stop by with my wife tonight for some food and booze.

[tetsujustin]

I thought I had saw an earlier post, but I think Beaver's would be a great place for a eGullet gathering. Let Bobby and Kevin make some drinks, try out some of Dax's new dishes. I think it'd be a good time.

Anyone down?

Also I have no idea and forget what I need to do to make this a non-offical eGullet meeting. Someone do the disclaimer thing for me.

[Morgan_Weber]

I thought I had saw an earlier post, but I think Beaver's would be a great place for a eGullet gathering. Let Bobby and Kevin make some drinks, try out some of Dax's new dishes. I think it'd be a good time.

Anyone down?

Also I have no idea and forget what I need to do to make this a non-offical eGullet meeting. Someone do the disclaimer thing for me.

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Yeah. I'm always down for some cocktails and food. I'm in there weekly anyway. Say when, and if I'm in town, I'll be there.

M

[danhole]

I thought I had saw an earlier post, but I think Beaver's would be a great place for a eGullet gathering. Let Bobby and Kevin make some drinks, try out some of Dax's new dishes. I think it'd be a good time.

Anyone down?

Also I have no idea and forget what I need to do to make this a non-offical eGullet meeting. Someone do the disclaimer thing for me.

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Yeah. I'm always down for some cocktails and food. I'm in there weekly anyway. Say when, and if I'm in town, I'll be there.

M

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I have been a couple times and disappointed. Now, if I were going, just to drink, that would be a different story. So far the food has been lacking. I will try one more time just to have a "beaver burger" but other than that I think I have had the Beaver experience and it wasn't all that great.

[Kent Wang]

7 May 2008

The barbecue was much better than last time with nothing overcooked.

I cannot agree with Morgan's assertion that this is not an attempt at the Central Texas style. You have the same cut of brisket and ribs, cooked in nearly the same way. It is apparent that it is an attempt at the style, but it comes up short of the top restaurants in the genre-- which is fine. I don't think there was any intention on the part of Beaver's to challenge them. Just as you know that you are getting good, but not superlative steak if you're heading to a local steak house instead of Peter Luger.

Nevertheless , the barbeque has some unique characteristics that are notable, such as the complex rub. Rubs vary in style with City Market (Luling) using a minimal one of just salt and pepper and Cooper's (Mason) using a variety of different spices. Beaver's rub is composed of even more varied spices than Cooper's and is very tasty.

The sausage is also quite a different beast than the typical Central Texas-style, with larger chunks of pork and a flavor-forward seasoning, though unfortunately not as juicy.

The sides are very good.

Coleslaw and potato salad were superb. A moden take on classic dishes made with the freshest ingredients, exactly what you would expect from Monica Pope .

Beans were too sweet, but otherwise quite nice.

Macaroni & cheese was more of a pasta salad with shells instead of elbows and not quite as cheesy.

Braised greens (I think they were mustard greens) were good.

The cocktails were superb. Bobby turned me onto The Darb, a terrific drink with apricot brandy that I've now added to my home bar menu.

The beer menu (revamped since my last visit) looked great, though I didn't have an opportunity to try any of them. Its selection rivals that of many beer bars and better than nearly any restaurant I have been to.

Overall, I like Beaver's a great deal. The barbecue is good, the sides very good and the drinks superb. If I lived in Houston I would be a regular. My parents live in the area so I'll be sure to stop in anytime I'm in town.

[Kerr.]

Bobby & Kevin are incredible bartenders. Supposedly, they've attracted a venture capitalist who is funding a new bar for them to be located on lower Westheimer.

[jscarbor]

"Just as you know that you are getting good, but not superlative steak if you're heading to a local steak house instead of Peter Luger."

Isn't Peter Lugers a local steak house? Just kidding.

[Morgan_Weber]

The cocktails were superb. Bobby turned me onto The Darb, a terrific drink with apricot brandy that I've now added to my home bar menu.

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FWIW: A lil' something I wrote about the Darb a few months back on Drink Dogma. (shameless self-promotion...hehehehehe)

...It is a terrific drink.