TN: Four wines

[Florida Jim]

2005 Philippe Portier, Quincy:

This bottling won the Médaille d’Or in Paris 2006 and I can see why as it is powerfully scented, rich and viscous in the mouth yet backed by bright acidity, salty minerality and has good complexity and length. Nonetheless, the nose smells strongly of cut grass (bordering on perm solution) and this element carries over to the palate. If you like well-made, grassy sauvignon, you’ll love this – I don’t. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Robert Kacher and about $12; I’ll not buy it again.

2006 Dry Stack Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc Rosemary’s Block:

Tropical fruit, grapefruit nose with hints of vanilla, flint and stones; rich, fleshy, mouth-coating with no grassy or cat pee elements and good acidity; excellent length. Much the better wine for my tastes despite its 14.1% alcohol; about $20; I bought plenty. (Every bit as good on day two – ‘kept in the fridge overnight.)

2002 Allemand, Cornas:

Cornas is my favorite expression of syrah; this has warm fruit aromas with earthy, smoky, meaty scents; a character driven, multi-faceted palate that is gutsy and somewhat rustic; a solid structure and a complex, lasting finish. And while this vintage may not have produced the most long-lived versions of the AOC, 2002 treated Thiérry Allemand just fine - this is pure, balanced, showing well and of its place. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $35; I bought plenty.

2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées VV:

Pungent unripe pineapple, stone and fresh air aromas with good complexity; viscous, powerfully flavored wine with great cut, layers of flavor, more weight than expected, excellent balance and world record acidity; unbelievable length. I’ve tasted this wine at least 20 times since release and it never fails to impress – I know what’s coming and it still exceeds expectations. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $7, on sale; one of the best bargains of my life.

Best, Jim