jaybee

Oh really?

Do Ruth Reichl or Gael Greene qualify, since they are still writing but not as reviewers? How about Patricia Wells? They make my top three list.

Holly, I may have missed this, but I did not see Papaya King on your list of great hot dog places. What is your opinion of PK?

My experience exactly, CT. Milder, but not necessarily more pleasing. Soemetimes I like the bite of the French Press. When making 2-4 cups it is my preferred method. When makin g 4+ I use the Bodum. The beans are always fresh and ground just before use.

Coffeetaster, I bought the Bodum Santos automatic because it supposedly heated water to the right temp (200 degrees). To your knowledge, is this true?

I am happy to report that a fellow poster located a copy of the recipe for the rustic blueberry tart with a cornmeal crust that I so longed for, and sent it to me in a PM. (to avoid any copyright problems). According to my source, it was originally in a 1992 Food & Wine magazine, and since reprinted in Michele Sciolone's La Dolce Vita. I can't wait to make one this weekend! I''ll send the recipe via PM to anyone who would like it.

I heard an interview with the former director of MOMA last night where he made the point that liberalism in government was the driver behind the development of "modern" art. In fact he took the period from 1870 to 1910 as the era which birthed "modern" art. So perhaps there is a relation between innovation and eating well, too.

My theory on this subject, for what it's worth: Human beings are alert, above all, to people differrent from themselves for one simple reason--our innate sense of self-preservation. Our instincts are that the people most similar to ourselves are the least threat, those most different, the most threat, Perhaps this comes from cave days or our tribal heritage. So it is that people immediately scan a stranger for signs of difference. The most secure among us are not ill at ease with signs of difference, unless we have learned that a particular sign means danger (the accent of an enemy at war time). People who are ill at ease sometimes resort to mockery as a way of dealing with their anxiety or as a kind of aggression against what they feel may be a threat. It is like a carnivore baring his teeth when another animal approaches. People from the parts of our society most unused to "strangers" (small towns in the mid-west, for example) are most likely to react. People from New York, who live with all kinds of people daily, are least likely to react this way. However, after Sept. 11th, anyone wearing a turban triggered a reaction for this reason. This is why it is so difficult for a "foreigner" in any society to completely conceal signs of diference from the "native" populations, when everyone's radar is tuned to pick up even the slightest nuance of difference.

I found that, even more than a Black Card. carrying a bottle of "61 Petrus in my front pants pocket acts like a real chick magnet.

If a byo wine turn out to be bad, do you rescind the corkage fee?

When we want to drink something very good, we BYO (after asking if they accept BYO and what they charge for corkage). For example, at a recent New Years party of eight at a very good Tuscan restaurant, we brought six bottles, all from our cellars: 1 btl. Crystal, a '61 Trotanoy, a '59 Bonne Mares, '61 Calon Segur, '70 Leoville Poyferre, '75 Cos D'estournel, and '75 Margaux. Corkage was $120. Virtually impossible to duplicate from a wine list. On nights when we didn't care as much, and would likely consume maybe a bottle, we'd order something of the list that was reasonable. It's nice to have that option. I agree with Steve about Daniel. I didn't know that. I haven't been there, but knowing they won't accept BYO gives me reason to pause. I want a wine that is up to the food, but don't want to pay $400 for it when I can have the same one from my cellar that cost me $12 in 1972 to lay down!! (yes, kiddies, the stuff actually cost that way back when).

Has anyone heard of plans to open a NY branch of the French Laundry?

For popularity, you'd have to say the hamburger. For symbolism, I'd have to go with roast turkey, stuffing and gravy as served on Thanksgiving. It conveys more of the American spirit and communal history than any other single dish.

Wasn' there a saying that "50 million Frenchmen can't be wrong?" There has rarely been an era where one couldn't lament the lack of discernment among the population at large, but the only place where it really matters to me is on the highway, where my life is at stake.

I agree with your opinion on this one, John. We have devolved into a list making, ranking, "top ten" world, which the media find easy to sell and people find easy to digest. Part of the problem is increasingly fewer people want to (or feel they can) take the time to put serious thought and reflection in such things as evaluating restaurants (or plays, or art). And there are many who will feed this desire for predigested "bytes" for good and bad. I add that there are many people who are insecure about their ability to judge what is good or not, so they feel more comfortable leaving that to "experts" and following their leads. As unfortunate as that tendency might be, it is a common failing, which "experts" are glad to cater to at great profit. As mentioned elsewhere, I've been reading Leslie Brenner's book on Daniel Boulud. His esatablishment is certainly at the epicenter of the world of stars and ratings. It is impossible to come away from this remarkable record feeling that this man is not passionately consumed with the art of cooking, and also with the desire to be financially successful, and the unwillingness to compromise either goal. His dedication to creating food that delights and surprises seems no less strong than that of Alice Waters. It is hard to call his a communal experience if you define the commune broadly, but then, I'm sure there are those who can't afford to eat at Alice's restaurant. For what it's worth, I felt your reply to my comment invited cordial response and in no way could be construed as a personal attack.

They are no laughing matter to the hens, certainly.

Peaches and cream are my dream. I would think peaches work well with hot pepper flakes and some lean savories, such as pulled pork, crisp bacon and a sauce made with sauternes. Just thought of that in the heat of the afternoon. Maybe a hallucination.

Have you had any feedback you are free to reveal from Boulud or any of the other "subjects" of the book? (Jamais, for example). Do you get a "PX" now, when you reserve a table there? Can I eat there with you the next time you are in New York? (cheeky bugger).

Jaymes, I would say you have captured one of the messages of John's piece and summed it up with clarity. How, pray tell, would you sum up the meaning (hidden or otherwise) of the above?

Wimpy, I'l add a plug for my brother-in-law's book The Bistros of Paris by Robert and Barbara Hamburger. It is a year old but has good information on bistros and wine bars, also ones that are open on Sunday, and vacation dates. It is available from Amazon or Barnes and Noble. Having done some small part of the research for the book I can attest for its impeccable accuracy and high level of taste. Also you would do well to read John Whiting's reviews, which are posted on his web site.

I am sparing myself reading this thread just yet but I thought an observation made by Daniel Boulud as desccribed in Leslie Brenner's book The Fourth Star was interesting. She said that Boulud was offered an opportunity to return to France to open a major restaurant and decided to stay here. He felt that there was more innovation and interesting cooking going on here, new frontiers and the like, while France was too static. That's not an exact quote, but it's the sense of the report. Leslie, if you happen to read this, please comment.

Dimitri, I started eating at CH due to FG's recommendation and my take is just as yours. I love the place. The burger is superb, the onion rings great, the rib-eye very good, the oyster fry is delicious. It is simple food. Well prepared and well served. I've been there at least four times and like it more each time. It ws Henry Meer who cued me to grinding brisket in with the chuck to make a really good burger. That's how I order the meat for home cooking too. If you like liver, try their grilled liver and onions.

Note that they are not the slightest bit humourous.

Old armangac, goose fat (since discovered for sale at Citarella) and knives from Dehilleron. And 3-4 lbs. around my middle.

De Nile is not just a river in Egypt, FG. Let me hear how you sing that tune after your first bypass or stroke (may it never happen to you). No argument from me there. If that's what you thought I was saying, I was not. I'm no fascist.