Bux

The article also notes that "Mr. Berman readily acknowledges that he gets the bulk of his funds from food and restaurant companies, some of which are also clients of his lobbying firm." While I wouldn't blame the dairly industry if someone tried to exist solely on a diet of butter and ice cream, Michael Jacobson and his Center for Science in the Public Interest, the targets of much of Berman's efforts, seem to take an extreme view in appearing to hold food manufacturers legally responsible for obesity in individual stituations by "engineering food that is full of sugar, fat and salt - and thus has an irresistible taste." I don't find Cheese Doodle irresistable.

Comerç24 is apparently referred to as the the Barcelona elBulli, at least according to what I heard a waiter tell one table of anglophones. We had a good meal there, but it only got off the ground after a unsuccessful course of tapas that resembled stuff we had at elBulli five years ago. It wasn't new, worse yet, it wasn't served with the panache that accompanies everything at elBulli nor with the sense of timing and style.

As you can see, there are only 26 courses. Equally obvious is that at some point they just seem to stop listing the courses. Notice that the "teppannitro," performance comes under the heading of "morphings." Is it unlisted as to leave a surprise -- each diner is presented with a menu before the meal -- or are the "morphings" a sort of encore perfomance for each table allowing a degree of meal expansion for those whose attention hasn't waned at this point?

Is this down home or down under style BBQ? ← If I tell yoou that I know the difference, I'd be out right lying! It taste pretty good, whatever it was. ← Down home is "country," that's just country, not a country and down under is Australia as in "put another shrimp on the barbecue for me." I just don't think of shrimp as southern BBQ. I think we already had a thread on this question and that someone cited someplace where shrimp was traditional, but I refuse to allow anything like that to alter my position.

Actually if you're willing to spend several hundred dollars per person plus beverages, it's easy enough to find phenomenal food, although if you choose poorly, there's no guarantee you'll get it even at those prices. Even the countryside can be touch and go, but the value is generally better at every level, where those levels are available.

I've never believed locals always know best place to eat. I've had more faith in Spain than in France, but I shouldn't be totally swayed just because McDonald's is growing more slowly in Spain.

It's a small place with small tables and not all that comfortable, nevertheless, I think the quality of the food merits reserving in advance. The problem is that the nature of the place itself isn't quite the kind of place that merits an "occaision." Frequently, it would be my first choice if I could walk in, or go on a short reservation, but when I plan weeks in advance, I tend to look for a place that's also more comfortable. All that just to ask how far in advance you made your reservation. Although it's not all that authentically Spanish, it resembles the kind of place that in Madrid one would walk into without a reservation in an area surrounded by others that resembled it, but with food that didn't necessarily match in quality or a neighborhood tavern frequented by those in the neighborhood and a small group of connoisseurs. Here in NY, it's a scene unfortunately.

Is this down home or down under style BBQ?

Viridiana offers a good blend of creativity and satisfaction. If there's a fault, it's that you may get too much food. Asturianos is the only place in Madrid to which we've been three times. It's the ideal place when we don't want a formal meal. We've always just shared plates with however large a group we are with. That's been from three to maybe seven or eight. Rogelio's our "go to" guy for tapas bars and especially the Cava Baja, but I'll add Taberna Temperanillo to his recommendation of Casa Lucas as you can't really appreciate the street without trying a few places. I can't swear that many of the other places will come close in the food department. We did notice Orixe, and I hope I have the name correct, on Cava Baja. It's brand new and rather upscale, but it looked inviting and as much as I could read the review in Spanish it sounded worth a try. It appears to be a real restaurant, but I had the impression it also served tapas. The review, by the way, was mentioned in one of Rogelio's digest posts this year. Cava Baja is a stone's throw from the Plaza Mayor, a lovely place to sit with a beer perhaps, but I'd suggest you pass the opportunity to have some tapas there. Not necessarily representative of anything, but just outside the plaza is this little place we skipped in our search for lunch. Nothing personal, I've skipped Mr. Patate in France and I assure you I'd likely skip Mr. Gaspacho or Mr. Paella as well. Without further comment I present Mr. Shawarama and his Iraki comidas.

The oyster and pearl dish may have been the most memorable dish of the evening for both of us, although we seem to have the same memory of the taste of oysters, the sea and jamon we seem to have slightly different ideas of which elements contributed which flavors. The oyster resides on a sauce. On top of the oyster is a pearl. The pearl is yet another "sférico" used this time in a less obvious and more complex manner in relationship to the relatively solid oyster and the rather thick sauce. Eaten in one gulp, the effect is dramatic but its difficult to separate the elements as even the oyster is almost a liquid. Ostra con su perla - elBulli I think you've just described the difference between a three star restaurant and a really great three star restaurant where even the things that don't matter are handled with a dedication that says they matter. It often seems as if all the focus is on the creative skill, but my guess is that the skill of the kichen is put in the best light because of the skill in the front of the house. It serves the meal the way a hall with great acoustics serves a concert. ElBulli is far more than just Adrià and Albert's food. Ultimately, it's also important that although personal taste varies considerably, the meal is delectable.

I think I would feel odd and perhaps guilty if we moved to the kitchen table. We've dined as a group of six, four and this time as a table of five. Each time we've sat at the same table. As we were escorted from the terrace to our table, Mrs. B noted that it was the same table at which we've sat twice before. Luis Garcia said they knew where we've sat and what we've eaten. I don't know if there are bad tables at elBulli, but this one is a wonderful table in it's own alcove surrounded by windows behind and over the banquette on three sides of the table.

Everything at elBulli is so transformed that the ordinary becomes quite extraordinary and the more exotic becomes just another dish. It's hard to imagine coming to elBulli with any preconceptions. On the other hand, they will cater to your food needs. We've been there three times with the same companion who has an allergy to all things from the sea. There's always been a separate menu for him. We alert the restaurant in advance however. Oddly enough our menu this year contained very little seafood. In other years it's seemed predominantly seafood. For what it's worth, our menu was very similar to Elie's. Perhaps exactly the same. I'll scan it soon and post it. We also have photos. I haven't had time to look at them full size. If they're clear, I'll post them too. Elie used the phrase "tasted like the essence" somewhere in his description of a dish. If anything distinguished this meal from the two others we've had, it was the focus on flavor. In fact, we noted a relative absence of texture, but a series of almost essential tastes through the course of the meal. Reviews of the kind designed to help others decide to go or not have long become meaningless. Adrià stands apart from all other chefs in a class by himself. In a way it's not the ideal first three star restaurant and in another way, it doesn't matter if you have any experience or not. It's just not like any other restaurant. As the shock value wears off and the unexpected becomes expected however, it becomes easier to pay attention to the service and realize the staff could easily work in any three star restaurant. The degree of grace and polish is at the highest level. In fact, it's at that level where service is so natural and smooth that one stops noticing the service. On one level it's a performance or even a circus. At the same time, it's the model of a top level restaurant. Subjectively, Adrià is probably not my favorite chef and elBulli is not likely my favorite restaurant. It's success however may be measured by how great my anticipation was for yet a third meal and how much I am on the edge of my seat anticipating each course when I'm dining there. Creativity, when it is as successful as it is at elBulli, can be addictive, and Adrià is unquestionably successful in my mind. Recently I read an article written a few years ago, which said that you will either love the meal or want to go running off to the most traditional restaurants. Each time I've eaten there, I'm thrilled by the meal and yet appreciate the next restaurant all the more. It's obvious to me that it's not the case of needing an antidote, but of leaving with a heightened appreciation for eating. I find dinner at elBulli to be a tonic, a restorative and wake up call for the taste buds.

I don't think I want to take sides in the discussion between those who feel the ultimate meal is one of the most pristine fresh seafood and fish and those who prefer to see the hand of the chef beyond just simply poaching or grilling the fish to a perfect state. I will however back any claim that Ca Sento is insufficiently rewarded by one Michelin star and perhaps still under recognized by two soles from Campsa, though it is a simple restaurant on several levels.

In another thread I once again extolled the virtues of a chocolate macaron from Hévin. It was eaten while walking in the Jardin du Luxembourg. We were walking to the gardens from the south, but I can't remember where we were or what we were doing there. I do remember walking past a Hévin shop, there are several in Paris, but this wouldn't have been the one I might have targeted. As soon as I passed the shop, it hit me that I wanted to taste their wares. I stop and returned. As usual, my wife warned me that it wasn't an opportune time to have a snack, it never is, and that I'd ruin my appetite, like if. So I restricted my purchase to one perfect macaron. Chocolate of course, Hévin is a chocolatier first and patissier only if chocolate is involved in the recipe. Yeah, these kinds of places are all over Paris, sort of like first aid kits or life preservers.

I had a chocolate macaron from Hevin. It was stunning. While some of Hermé's macarons are also stunning, they are so in a way that's more than a macaron and consequently, less than a macaron. That said, a salt butter macaron was also exceptional, but somehow that chocolate macaron was the epitome of macaron.

On the other hand, as you also said, one can find interesting food at Bib Gourmands outside the main cities in, say, Spain. ← We, all of us, myself included, fall into a trap when we think of Michelin's purpose as simply a guide to the stars. Precisely because Michelin has failed to locate the stars in Spain to my satisfaction we traveled without it there recently and missed having a copy to locate a restaurant near a hotel when were tired at night, to guide us to our hotel or through town while driving on and in other not so subtle ways that had nothing to do with restaurants worthy a voyage or even a detour. On several occasions we might have paid twice the price had someone on the side of the road had one for sale. When you want a book, you notice that there are no book shops by corn fields and no parking near where there are books for sale. Once you're safely parked and able to ask directions at the front desk of your hotel, you forget or think you won't need the guide again tomorrow. How quickly we forget.

Those photographs take me right to France. Trama seems to be doing exceptional work and the bib gourmand in Sauternes doesn't appear to be too shabby either. I remember when food like that at the bib gourmande was as good as it gets. Perhaps in a way it still is, although I'm going to pay for those little frills à la Trama from time to time. It's great that you were able to dine at both levels. I think they each have their own rewards. I eagerly look forward to your report on Spain. I hope it was as successful a visit.

Senderens says it's not about the money, but that "he has had enough of the stress of perfection." I don't know that it's not about the money and things are never as simple as anyone wants to paint them, but I'll buy the bit about having enough of the stress of perfection. It doesn't negate perfection, even as it recognizes that perfection is not necessarily going to make a dish taste better. Much of what he's saying seems to mimic what Robuchon has been saying since he first announced his intention to retire.

Michelin is after all, a French publication. It's not just that its effect is greatest in France, but that it mimics the French concerns with restaurants. Thus there may be some problem separating the chicken and the egg here. I don't know dining and eating in restaurants in Italy well enough to say much and certainly not enough to say anything bright. In Barcelona, I was taken aback to discover Ca L'Isidre after a casual mention by a trusted source. I had expected a much simpler bistro and even lower prices from a place not even mentioned in Michelin. Later I learned that Ca L'Isidre has two "suns" from Campsa which awards one to three "soles" to restaurants it deems worthy. Campsa also has a "recommended" category so the number of suns is at least the equivalent to Michelin stars. Ca L'Isidre is too good and too well known to have escaped attention of Michelin. I suspect there's a story there. Otherwise, throughout Spain chefs bandy their Michelin stars if they've been lucky enough to get some. I suspect those stars mean more to the international tourists than they do to the local connoisseurs. I'm hampered by not speaking Spanish, although my wife's first language is Spanish and she has her professional travel contacts in Spain which offer some insight into tourism. I wear a few blinders as well in Spain simply because of the accessibility I've had to selected local connoisseurs. That's broadening largely as a result of being able to meet eGullet Society members of different stripes. What I sense is Spain, when I can get away from the tourists, even the gastrotourists, is a profound interest in food that's quite different from the one in France. I see a greater tie to the local traditions running parallel with an inquisitive acceptance of new ideas. We heard one woman at a local but respected country inn describe a dish to her five table companions as "'nouvelle' cocina," the other week in a way that implied the sixty something year old was telling her companions she was hip. Spain's best restaurants are not usually located in nice country inns. It doesn't lend itself to neat touring packages suitable to the motoring gastronome the way France does. It's basically not Michelin country. Now that the drive from Paris to Nice no longer requires stopovers let alone multiple stopovers, France is changing too. Saulieu and Vienne are no longer ideal places in which to have a restaurant, unless there's local support. Spain is however, mimicking France in the R&C properties and the luxurious three star restaurants. I think the "food scene" is relatively new in Spain in terms of the French model, but yes, to get back to your premise, the gain or loss of a star seems to mean far less to a restaurant whose trade is local and not dependent on foreign tourism. The most astute three star French chefs have long realized they are playing to an international audience whose attendance is predicated on high scores from Michelin and, for a while, GaultMillau. Michelin doesn't have that power in Spain, but as the best restaurants in northern Spain become more and more the targets of traveling foreigners, things may change. We've heard an awful lot of English and French spoken at Can Roca located in an odd location in the suburbs of Girona. Roca seems to be his own man, but so too has Bras. In fact, Bras is the French chef who seems to be most revered in Spain.

As JohnL already flat out stated, it's really difficult to pigeonhole any culinary writer. I don't know what people should do and Mimi Sheraton has certainly earned more respect than I am likely to earn in culinary circles, but I'm glad Michael Rhulman wrote The Soul of a Chef, and I'm glad Dorie Greenspan worked with Julia Child, Daniel Boulud and Pierre Hermé. I don't think it should stop them from writing in other areas of gastronomy. If Wells has been so influenced by Robuchon that she's no longer able to be an impartial critic, that's a shame, but I don't know that's true or that it's a universal factor.

I have a low opinion of journalism these days, but it's not been my observation that expertise of any kind is necessarily a disqualifier for reporting.

I've not found myself in agreement with her opinions as much lately as in years past. She changed, I changed, and perhaps the world changed. Be that as it may, I understand Ms. Wells, in addition to being the long running resident food critic for the International Herald Tribune, was once the food or restaurant critic for l'Express, the French news magazine. That's a remarkable achievement for an American in France. She's written two of the most authoritative books on French food sourcing in English. I was once told by an artisanal distiller of fine eaux-de-vie in Gascony, that he felt she established herself as above the bar in terms of local ethics in food reviewing when she purchased his products and then announced she was going to recommend his distillery in her book. According to the distiller, the accepted thing to do in France was to announce your intent to write the guide and expect to be lavished with free products in the hope of being included, should the book ever be published. Then again, thin air may not be such a derogatory term when you consider that Ferran Adrià went from "foams" to "air" as he progressed.

I doubt it, given the source and the easy availability of good soups in my kitchen. Plus, I suspect that Campbell's upscale soups will have just as much sodium as the regular variety; I'd just as soon stay away. ← I have limited use for a shelf stable quick meal. That use is limited puts more emphasis on long shelf life. We've taken to trying to keep a couple of cans of soup around. I can't say I've been really pleased by any of them so far and that includes the organic and natural products from Whole Foods supermarket. I'd try this, if the ingredients on the label didn't turn me off. I'm a big label reader. I don't mind salt, but there are any number of products that turn me off. In the end, it's the taste and Campbell hasn't got a great track record. I'd almost question the wisdom of using the brand name in trying to reach the upscale market. Let's see how much corn syrup, modified food starch, hydrogenated fat and MSG is in the soup.

As contrast to that rather rich dish I had, it might be worth knowing that the current web site for La Fonda Xesc also shows a spring vegetable menu. I can't promise it's a true menu suitable for vegetarians, but it appears to be meatless in the all the ingredients lists. Vegetarians are sometimes disappointed to learn that a vegetable dish often comes with well endowed with morsels of ham in Spain.

In fact, I arrive in cities such as Paris (are there really any cities that can be compared to Paris?) with a huge mental list of things I should do, but no organized plan of attack. I've taken many notes, but they're always back in my computer, when I'm in the quartier where they would come in handy. The net effect is that by the time I've left Paris, I have at hand the practical experience to plan the visit I should have made. None of which explains why I've had such a good time, unless it's that I leave knowing I need to come back. All of which however, suggests I'm the ideal person to tell you to do as I say, not as I do.