Bux

I wonder if these are the same peppers you get in the French Basque region, on the other side of the Pyrenees from Navarra, as well. The dried piments d'Epelette are rather spicy although no more so than medium hot paprika. You can get roasted and peeled piquillos imported from Spain in cans and jars. It's my understanding that some excellent restaurant kitchens in the US have been using these although I don't know if the same brands are available to consumers and chefs alike. The best version I have had was in France, in Ainnoa, at a one star restaurant. The preparation and saucing did not involve any cheese, which in general hasn't seemed to really help support the bacalao stuffing to my taste. We've improvised recipes using whatever red peppers we could find, usually bell, but some tiny red peppers found at the NYC Greenmarket worked very well. We baked the latter stuffed rather than trying to roast and peel them first. The stuffing has been a variation of brandade.

Sounds as if DC chefs are really hip to the Internet and how to use it.

Pancetta is not smoked, or am I incorrect about this?

In what way? I was at La Régalade last December and I liked it a lot; it is indeed pure, but modern. I liked it more then the Bristol, as you know. [My ratings: La Régalade: 15/20, Bristol: 14/20.] The meal started with an 'amuse' of a large terrine of pork served with bread. Help yourself to all you can eat with the bread--no plates for this. I had a main course of breaded kidneys, simply done and served with garlic mashed potatoes. My wife had a parmentier of blood sausage which was a shepherd's pie sort of dish with the filling of blood sausage under a topping ot mashed potatoes. The dish was topped with bread crumbs and browned. A first course of smoked eel and spinach terrine served with vegetabes in a pesto vinaigrette was a bit more contemporary. I forgot about that one until I checked my notes. Beignets also seems like a rustic dessert, but I have to remember that mine were punes filled with an almond cream and then coated with batter. Of the three inexpensive restaurants that impressed us, la Régalade was my favorite. Just because I found the food rustic, does not mean I thought the cooking lacked finesse.

It was the spring of '98 when I ate at both la Régalade and Eric Fréchon's. At the time, they were already very different cooks and restauranteurs sharing one thing--the offer of a very well cooked meal at rock bottom prices. Camdeborde was cooking rather simple rustic food, while Fréchon's menu was more modern and less rustic. There has been at least one past thread here about the group, most of whom worked under Constant at the Crillon, who were livening up affordable eating in Paris. Constant himself was among that group with his own Violon d'Ingres. Thank you for clarifying 'confrontation.' I was thinking of disagreement in the less collaorative sense, which is the connotation in English. Camdeborde's recipes here seem less like what I recall from eating in la Régalade.

That's generally depressing news as we're on our way over there next month. I'll post my itinerary later, but Akelarre has had so much good press, that I don't think I can afford to miss it. On the other hand, it may well be that he's entered a desperate phase of trying cook food that is not what knows and does best. We can't eat multistarred meals day after day and we want to return to both of the two restaurants that have served us well in the past--Arzak and Martin. It's possible we'll have a disappointing trip if we share your reactions. I have high hopes for Mugaritz at least. I suppose it's to be expected that cuisiniers at one of the leading innovators in the region would lean towards the guide published by an evangelist of creativity. Those young cooks who favor traditional cooking are not going to be drawn to Martin's kitchen. Right now we, as diners, are drawn to where the excitement is, but we're hoping to get some good regional cooking in between the avant garde meals. I'm well aware of the dichotomy in my interests. When I read about restaurants the creative chefs come to the fore in my interest, but more and more, I find myself talking about the more rustic foods after I've returned from a trip. This is not to say however, that I talk about a high percentage of the non destination restaurants. I think all food guides show certain peculiarities if you're familiar with the area and especially if you have your own sense of what's interesting and good to eat. You have to pick the right guide, and then make allowances anyway. In San Sebastian, Campsa lists 19 restaurants for 2003. The top rating is 3 sols (suns). Akelarre Arzak Martin Berasategui. No one gets 2 sols. 1 sol Casa Nicolasa Kursaal-Martin Berasategui La Muralla Miramón Arbelaitz Rekondo Urepel There's also a "recommended" but no sol category Agorregi Astelena Kukuarri It's interesting that Martin is listed as being in San Sebastian, while other restaurants are not. Mugaritz (2 sols) and Zuberoa (3 sols) are listed under Oiartzun. Are they not as close to San Sebastian as Martin? Edit: add Fagollaga (1 sol) in Hernani

I heard reports that the magazine had ceased publication. I seem to recall that was way back when the 2003 version of the guide came out. Was there a gap in publication or has it been pubishing continuously? Can you give us a brief synopsis about the 'confrontation?' I know they were part of that same generation of young chefs opeining inexpensive restaurants/bistros some years back. In fact, I at at Frechon's, la Régalade and Philippe Dutourbe on the same visit to Paris and swore I'd never eat in a starred restaurant again. Unfortunately my itinerary after we left Paris included Georges Blanc and Veyrat among other places and life at the three stars is good too.

My understanding of American recipes is that if smoked lean pork belly is wanted, the recipe will call for bacon. It cured, but not smoked lean belly is wanted, the recipe will call for pancetta. I recall buying pork for lardons from a butcher in France, but I can't recall if it was cured or fresh. As I recall, we were making some classic dish such as coq au vin and it was whatever the butcher recommended. As I recall, we were buying the chicken and said we wanted a bird for coq au vin. He said we'll need lardons as well then, which preempted our request.

Wow, you've been eating cassoulet once a week though London's heat wave. I don't think I'd like to be in a room with you if you had a knife and fork and there wasn't a lot of food in the room. Even under those circumstances I'd like to have my back to the door. Were your post any less interesting or less thorough, I would have suggested that asking for the classic cassoulet recipe would be like trawling for flames, or even blood. From all I've heard, the recipe varies from locale to locale and I suspect from kitchen to kitchen. I can't even find agreement on whether it must be covered with browned bread crumbs. One of the tastiest cassoulets I've ever had wouldn't meet my basic definition of cassoulet. In the Pays Basque, I ordered what was listed on the menu as Cassoulet Basquaise--red beans and meat. I can't even remember if it had lamb, goose or duck, but I recall some sausage and a magnificent slice of fat boudin noir. The most tasteless cassoulet I've ever had was in Carcassonne at a starred restaurant. I'm sure it was made with water and not stock, and few herbs, if any. The restaurant in the Pays Basque had a star too, by the way. You'll learn little about what's authentic from the Larousse, or at least not from my version which says that the versions from Toulouse and Caracassonne add mutton which distinguishes them from the cassoulet of Castelnaudry. Then they go on to offer two recipes for Cassoulet de Castelnaudry that include mutton. I've long been a purist and traditionalist, but after that Basque cassoulet, I'm all for invention--by the right cook. If you do a search you will find well over 200 threads in which cassoulet is mention. A few of those might be interesting to pursue, although it's often hard to tell just from the title. From a thread that is simply entitled Cassoulet comes this gem of a post: And, need I add, among eGulleteers. Bon appetit and welcome to eGullet. Let us know more about how your hunt for the best cassoulet goes.

An interesting article, but after reading it, I'm still unclear exactly how much difference there is between how the cheeses are handled at the Artisanal Cheese Center and at Fromagerie Alleosse in Paris. Patricia Wells writes about turning the Brie on their rye straw mats. I did not see straw mats here in NY. I wonder if they meet local codes. Do the washed rind cheeses have their rinds washed at Alleosse? Following a cheese every step of the way, as Ms. Wells writes about Alleosse, may not mean that you oversee every step in your own celler.

We were there quite some time ago. We had at least a couple of meals there. Liked it a lot and I think I've made some comments about those meals on eGullet. On the whole, it's lost out to some restaurants that are closer to home or more casual.

I've never been there, and can't dispute any comment made that this is the best, or most creative chef that's ever walked the face of the earth, but for him to have been influential, let alone as influential as Adria, for the past two decades would mean that he's affected the work of other chefs and that his influence has been international. I'm curious how this can be if he gets little or no mention in the international culinary press and I've not heard much about him. Mind you, I'm not disputing the groundbreaking aspect of his cooking, it's just that claims of his influence seen exaggerated. Where might I taste the fruits of his influence in the US, France or Spain? That would appear to be an admission that he's not as influential as Adria.

I was pretty sure Michael Laiskonis hit right the first time as soon as I saw his post. I know of no other Japanese chef who's drawn enough attention recently to have been suspected of having two stars. There was a fair amount of discussion about the restaurant here. It is resolutely French food, right down to the cheese selection. The chef owns a bunch of French restaurants in Japan, as I recall.

Welcome to the France forum. May I ask if you're connected with le Totem? Can you tell us more about it and particularly about the food.

I don't have the experience to argue with that. I assume this thread is about espresso, whether the poster writes "coffee" or "espresso." Espresso doesn't get it's due in New York and even, or maybe especially, in fine restaurants, it's very poor value and not worth ordering except by addicts. Even a mediocre espresso serves to finish a meal for me, but I often feel cheated by what I get, especially when I check the price. I suspect coffee quality is not that important to most restaurateurs or diners. I"m as guilty as the next person but more and more, we will forgo espresso and have some at home. This is a shame as most restaurants have machines that cost a multiple of what ours cost. In Italy, I remember using a restaurant guide that gave separate ratings for food and wine celar among other things. One of those other things was coffee. Imagine Zagat with a separate column for espresso quality. In Spain I find some better restaurants are now serving Italian brands of espresso such as Illy or Danesi. I think it's a pity as I prefer the Spanish coffee I get in bars and cafes to what is served in these restaurants. It seems there is a misguided attempt to buy into the international standard. At home we are using Danesi which we prefer to Illy. We used the Gold until we tried some of the new Black Doppio espresso at a trade show. It was sensational at the show, but at home we have not been getting better coffee than with the Gold. We will probably be trying them alternately for a while until we make up our mind. DiPalo is our source.

Sometimes the only thing one can expect of posting here is to be misunderstood. I was the only one to suggest you "probably shouldn't bother." That's a far cry from anyone saying you might not be worthy. On the other hand, you said "I have encountered many reviews which say that most of the food goes uneatan...it is sent back to the kitchen because...it just isn't very tasty." In response others asked for links to those "many" reviews. I appreciate seeing Anthony Dias Blue's 2001 review, but I also notice that he made no reference of food going back to the kitchen uneaten. True, he said he never heard anyone say "delicious." On the other hand, I don't recall being able to hear much, if any, of the conversation at neighboring tables, let alone report on what was being said all over the restaurant. It's an interesting review and, for me, a surprise coming from a culinary professional. He actually finds it disappointing that the food occupied his full interest at dinner. Unless he's a member here, it's probably pointless for me to say much more except that yes, El Bulli is not going to be enjoyed by someone who is not interesting in food that is riveting. I know people who don't like movies that people want to talk about after seeing them. A meal at El Bulli is demanding the way great art is demanding of the viewer. Thanks for the review. I was glad to have the chance to see it. It tells me a lot about Anthony Dias Blue and confirms my view that Adria's food is not for everyone.

Is there something not astonishing about a collection of pastries using "collection" in the sense of a fashion house? Food is rather ephemeral, certainly the meal we consume is more ephemeral than the clothes we wear, have cleaned and wear again, but chefs have tended to present new ideas as revolutionary and not as passing fashion and dishes that are well received tend to become classics that stay available in a restaurant's repertoire--at least up until nueva cocina. One can only hope that Hermé is documenting his desserts as well as Adria is documenting his dishes.

I'm tempted to suggest cava as well, but Victor makes a good point. It seems inappropriate, after all the work that's gone into the thought and preparation of that meal, to take an easy solution. It just seems so alien to the spirit of dining at El Bulli. In answer to the IrishCream's post and question, I'm tempted to say that if one has to ask why bother going to El Bulli, one probably shouldn't bother. Then again, I've not read many reports of uneaten food. In my own experiences--two meals, one with a table of four and the other a table of six--nothing but bread, which is replenished, was left on a plate. All I can say is that we went to El Bulli because of the reviews and articles I had read and that we returned because of the food. That's no guarantee anyone else will enjoy the experience and if you have food gurus whose opinion you already respect, it's reasonable to take their advice out of proportion to all others. I recall one negative report here. Perhaps there were others that made less of an impression on me.

Unfortunately, I least like Gopnik's writing when he speaks of cooking, particularly French cooking. Of all the things about which Gopnik speaks, cooking is the one onwhich I may be most fit to comment. Check out my past arguments here on his cooking chapter in Paris to the Moon. For that reason alone, I have to take all of his writing with a grain of salt. Nevertheless I enjoy most of what he writes about Paris and suspect he's more on the mark where his strengths are greater than mine. Perhaps, that's only a product of my ignorance in those same areas. Menton's "absolutely LOVED every word of Michael Saunders 'From Here, You Can't See Paris'. Probably also because I love the South-West of France, as well." together with John Whiting's comments about Gopnik's suspected inability to slip easily into the life of a French village are key points in my understanding John's lack of appreciation for Gopnik. Gopnik is an urban intellectual who earns his living talking to other urban intellctuals who associate ideas, talents and accomplishments with individuals who have names and whose names have meaning to a large, even international, community. Gopnik and I share an environment that is apt to make us unfit to easily slip into the life of a French village. As a result, perhaps, I don't see that as a failing. I've not been brought up to believe the mark of a good man is his ability to slip easily into the life of a French village. French villagers drop names like Geroges, Henri and Pierre all the time. We just have no reference points for the names. The issue of missed opportunities in childraising is perhaps a bit removed from this forum, but one that interests me deeply, having missed many of them in my day both as child and a parent. The one thing I don't regret is not having my child accept the norm as normal. Nevertheless, you do a disservice by implying Gopnik's life in Paris was abnormal, or that he spend much time or money in luxurious surroundings. I suspect it was the normal life of an intellectual ex-pat American on assignment in Paris drawing a middle class salary. What parent would saddle his five year old child with the undermining sense that they life he led was not a normal one. Few of us are above bending the facts to make our posts more interesting. My guess is that I don't finish reading many of the posts that don't make an attempt to be interesting. John's posts are always interesting.

But I think it is generally startling for Americans to see the seriousness with which the French apply themselves, or appear to apply themselves, to liesure activities. On the whole I love the gravity of French manners, but to most Americans I suspect they seem the very essence of social comedy. The problem with Americans, if I may loosely stereotype the world for a moment, is that they appear to be unable to restrict or control their screaming brats at all, while the problem with the French is that they seem not to have any screaming brats. I'm not sure which is the scarier society. My reading of Gopnik's behavior in regard to his son's infatuation with another five year old is quite different from yours. I thought that chapter in From Paris to the Moon was a touching piece, albeit a missed opportunity to teach his son a lesson in the value of money and political correctness.

Paris Journal: THE ANTI-ANTI-AMERICANS, A summer of obsessions in France. Issue of 2003-09-01. Posted 2003-08-25. The article, in spite of my carefully chosen citation, is not at all about food, but worth reading to fans and critics of France and the French.

I am not at all sure an elevator can match the graceful descent or ascent of a grand, or even small, well designed set of stairs.

I read the review, and I've fixed your link. I've no doubt Eric Ruth's palate would improve if he quit smoking, but I can't prove it. Of course there's a difference between arguing that someone is not a fit reviewer because they smoke and willing to bet they'd be a better reviewer if they quit smoking--assuming they didn't start to beat their wife of something as a result. As for the review, it's quite a positive one. There's rarely a restaurant where every dish is equally appealing or as successful to my tastebuds. It's one reason why a reviewer needs to make several trips and one reason why none of us should write off a restaurants food, or rave too much about a place on the basis of one dish. If Mr. Ruth had managed to praise the higgle spiced dishes and found the subtle ones lacking, I'd be more likely to suspect a deadened palate, but his appreciation as judged by his descriptions, seemed to be all over the menu and his criticisms seem tempered. The fact that you noted that you generally liked his reviews leads me to suspect it's a matter of tricky palates, as Beans says. There are other reasonable explanations. It may be that you have more or less knowledge of the food at this restaurant than at others he's reviewed and therefor you are less tolerant of his opinions. The nature of taste is such that personal reactions are likely to differ even between knowledgeable diners. Finally, I would not discount a possibility that you have come to love the food so much, that you are subconsciously able to overlook a flaw. Human nature is that way. It's even possible that he loves the food so much that he becomes hypercritical without realizing he's being unfair. None of this really had that much to do with the subject of smoking unless we can determine that the dishes he dismisses are ones with flavors most obscure to a smoker's palate. Got connections for a government grant? It could be an interesting study.

How can you trust anyone's palate? I don't smoke. I don't like the taste or smell of tobacco smoke and I'm personally thrilled that I no longer have to endure smoke in NYC restaurants. One chef I know gave up smoking and told me that his palate was receptive to a whole new range of tastes, but does that prove his palate before he gave up smoking was not superior to mine, or that his current sensitivity to flavors is better than some other chef or critic who smokes? Would the horse with the lightest jockey always win the race? Don't bet on it. I'll agree that the reviewer in question is operating under a handicap, assuming I knew for sure that the reviewer smoked. I can't open that link by the way.

I've never been there, and can't dispute any comment made that this is the best, or most creative chef that's ever walked the face of the earth, but for him to have been influential, let alone as influential as Adria, for the past two decades would mean that he's affected the work of other chefs and that his influence has been international. I'm curious how this can be if he gets little or no mention in the international culinary press and I've not heard much about him. Mind you, I'm not disputing the groundbreaking aspect of his cooking, it's just that claims of his influence seen exaggerated. Where might I taste the fruits of his influence in the US, France or Spain?