Bux

If chefg (Grant Achatz of Trio, Chicago) is not known by some of our Spanish contributors, allow me to introduce him and his cuisine via a few noteworthy eGullet threads. eGullet Q&A with Grant Achatz Trio Kitchen Table

I suspect that if one referred to Spam as "nasty" stuff in the general food forum, there might well follow some quite irate messages. No less a product than Velveeta has had many favorable posts by those who love its taste and by those who just think it's essential to a certain dish they like. I understand Spam sushi is relatively poplular in Hawaii. Spam has a good market in the US. What's more, one can't assume all Europeans enjoy their nationally aquired tastes. In another thread, think I mentioned the time we ordered some morcillas in a bar in Donostia. An American near us asked her Spanish friend what that was and the friend said she didn't know what was in that and didn't want to know. It's not something she would eat. It was not the first time we met a European who didn't enjoy the local specialties as much as we did.

My favorite Shanghai restaurant (Shanghai Village on Grand Street) seems to have disappeared from the face of the earth while we were in Europe last month. We came back and found a "closed for alterations" sign taped to the roll down shutter and it's been that way for weeks. Joe's Ginger is now the closest Shanghai restaurant to where I live. Joe's makes some good soups with noodles that suit me for lunch, but I miss the great soups and other stuff at Shanghai Village. I still check out the store front, but my hope it will reopen is fading.

I like espresso after dinner and although I've tried and enjoyed whisky and found brandy better, I've come to the conclusion that nothing does it for me like the combination of a good aged sipping rum such as Ron del Barrelito from Puerto Rico and espresso. Brandy and whiskies are better on the side as is anything else I find worth drinking. It's best to start with a good espresso and add the rum as you drink some coffee taking care to keep the cup full. At some point you may be drinking straight rum, which is fine too.

I don't know if beef tongue is getting harder to find or not. To get it fresh, we usually have to order it. I do know it's risen in price considerably, but don't think it's been a recent rise. There's nothing better than a good fresh uncured beef tongue that's been braised in a rich stock and served with a bit of madeira in the sauce and some nice root vegetables, although on occasion, guests prefer not to see it displayed whole. The problem with chicken livers is the quality usually available in most markets. It seems to be going downhill.

Although sometimes the things I think are universal and a product of human nature are, in fact, merely local to the place in which I grew up or perhaps belong to a set of customs common to a large part of the world, but alien to the small place I was in when I made my latest faux pas.

Assuming local truffles are in season in the place where I am at the time, I always stick with the local stuff.

Right, neither the cardboard tube nor the stuff in it should be called Parmesan. I think I'm going to bow out from naming three cheeses for the simple reason, that I have favorites for different uses; my favorites have have changed over the years and will continue to change; but most of all because what I enjoy most, whether in cheese or wine or food in general, is discovering new tastes. My early favorites were the soft runny and very creamy French cheeses such as the ubiquitous Brie and Camemberts and the hard Gruyere and Emmenthaler. (I'm leaving out the abominations of industrial processing experienced in my childhood.) From there it was a small step to the odoriferously riper Munster, Pont-Leveque and Livarot. Later I began to discover other ranges of textures and flavors particularly goat cheeses and then sheep cheeses. Blues came in along the way--a really good Forme d'Ambert is still a favorite. All of these were French cheeses and for a long time, I limited myself to French cheeses and good Parmesan and Peccorino for pasta--the former on meat sauces in particular. The hard sheep's tommes from the Pays Basque were a good introduction to the Spanish cheeses on the other side of the Pyrenees when we started to travel in Spain. Spanish cheeses rekindled an earlier interest in cheese as snack, rather than as a course after salad and before dessert as had been the rule in France. We haven't traveled much in Italy, but a great New York Italian food store--DiPalo's, for those here in NYC--has alerted us to yet another range of cheeses. Oddly enough DiPalo also carries some of the best Manchego I've had in NY. Louis says he carries it because Manchego is a big seller in Italy. I'm not even sure if my current favorites should be the ones I eat most regularly because I can get good examples in NYC, or if they should be the ones I crave most, but don't eat unless I'm in the area where they are made because they are either unavailable here, or so much better there. All I know is that I really don't have to pick only three and that the variety itself is part of what makes cheese wonderful.

I found that post quite interesting. In most countries, if I was to return to a restaurant that served me poorly the first time, I'd be marked as a sucker who didn't deserve any better. In France and the US, I certainly get better service by demonstrating an appreciation for the food, although knowing people in the right places works all over the world. Putting oneself in the hands of a waiter is a tricky business. There are restaurants where it's the waiter's responsibility to pawn off the stale food on the unsuspecting, but generally, we've had good luck in appealing to a waiter's pride, especially in Spain. As I mentioned, I have no experience eating in Portugal. We don't always reserve ahead when we're traveling, but we frequently do and I'll agree that it's a good tactic, even when it's not necessary to book a table. It sends the signal that you're choosing the restaurant and not just falling into it because it's around the corner from your hotel, or the place you got hungry. It puts the burden on the restaurant to meet your expectation.

I was thinking of buying a very expensive mandoline when I was told by a couple of chefs who worked at Daniel, that in spite of the fact that they have one of those stainless steel mandolines in the kitchen, everyone just reaches for a Benriner. It was a great purchase.

I've no doubt the movie stars care more for smoking than the taste of food. I'm not sure of the point you're making there other than that one can make more money pandering to the tastes of smokers than of gastronomes. PT Barnum and HL Menken offered all the advice one needs if money is the goal. I'm still getting used to the idea that I can have a drink at the bar without the annoyance of distasteful cigarette smoke. Not long ago, we walked into a popuar restaurant without a reservation and was told we could wait at the crowded bar for a table. We started to walk out, when we realized we could now enjoy a drink at a bar in NYC, not that it was easy to get near the bar in this very crowded smoke free atmosphere. From what I can see, it's still difficult to get a reservation in a good restaurant or a bar stool in a good bar in NYC, so there's little incentive for me to resent your threat to our economy. I get a better picture of your values when you note the health concerns of, and for, an 11 year old should be discounted because of her lack of discretional funds.

There are those of us who have a soft spot in our heart for black pepper. Than again, a good syrah goes a long way for us too. How are the the sensational fresh 'queijinhos' prepared when served as an amuse bouche? What would I call them in English? The best amuse bouche I've ever had was a plate of the finest fried bait as served at the Pourcel Brothers' then two star Jardin des Sens in Montpellier, France--deep fried fish as etherial as any cream enriched crayfish mousse. I think I say that in a spirit not so different from Miguel's pronouncements of the best fish or best restaurant. I also think one-upmanship is meaningless when proferred without factual backing, but I also think statements of the best-of-anything are always going to be made and almost always, "in my (limited) experience" is a phrase that may be tacked on at the end of the statement. At the most extreme seriousness, this sort of statement is little more than a declaration of personal taste or personal experience, and as such, challenges are only of mild interest. What is interesting is the continued exploration of the subject and the places mentioned. Pedro's question brings us back to the interesting core of the discussion. Wherever this thread has gone, I think I've learned a bit about Portuguese food and restaurants from most of the posts.

He's also too much of a culinary personality to hold the position, or so I would think. Of course I'd really love to read reviews by a guy who likes eating and a weekly dose of Steingarten would be welcome, but if I were a betting man, I'd bet he doesn't want the job. I'm not a betting man and probably financially better off for that fact, however.

There's an interesting question. Over the years I've developed a fondness for many places and then never returned again because the cafe changed, or I've changed and the cafe reminded me too much of a time in my life I've lost. When I first visited Paris when I was still a student, I was eager to grasp as much as I could of Europe and its culture. I couldn't experience enough, nor could I do it fast enough. Today, I'm a jaded traveler with little interest in getting the most out of a trip. Nevertheless, forty years ago I could sit alone, or with friends in cafe for hours with the sense I was doing something significant and important. I was, I suppose, bonding with the locals and even more with the centuries of anglophone tourists who had written about sitting in cafes in Paris. Oddly enough, today I'm far less inclined to sit for a time in a cafe and watch the world go by than I was then and we rarely stop in a cafe unless we're meeting someone. Perhaps I'm neglecting to factor in the need on a student budget of amortizing the price of a cup of coffee or a draft beer over a period of time to get my money's worth. I like les Editeurs near the carrefour de l'Odeon. David Bizer, an eGullet member introduced us to it last year and we happened to be staying not far from it on our last trip, so we used it a few times. There's a rather plush interior and just a row of chairs one table deep that take up about half of a rather narrow sidewalk. I generally like the large brasserie cafes, but I prefer the more anonymous ones in less toursity areas than the more famous ones such as Deux Magots or des Flores. As I try to form an picture of one I've liked, I realize I'm not thinking of Paris at all, but of a place in Bordeaux, Toulouse or some other French city where things don't change as fast as they do in Paris.

I am one of those who hates driving long distances. At least I do now. There was a time when I would take a drive of 100 miles or more, just to relax. For us, the drive from Barcelona to Donostia was a very rewarding five days, although few of the meals we had were quite up to to those we've had in the Pais Vasco. There were however, some excellent meals and sightseeing to match. I've also had a car at my disposal whenever I've been in Donostia and certainly found it convenient to drive from the city to surrounding restaurants, though it put a dent in the amount of wine I might have had if I were not driving. Akelare and Arzak are certain close enough to make a taxi a reasonable choice. It's my understanding that other eGullet members have taken taxis to more distant restaurants. Perhaps we'll get some information on the availability of taxis and the fare to Mugaritz and Berasategui. I noticed there was a bus that went to Lasarte as well. I don't know how late it runs or how close to Berasategui it might bring you.

I remember being asked by a fishmonger on Grand and Chrystie Streets in NY, if he had spelled "eel" correctly on his sign. Had he not asked, I probably wouldn't have noticed that it was "ELL." A lot of the hand lettered English language signs in markets in Chinatown are less than accurate. Nevertheless, as life long resident of this city with its many immigrant populations, misspelled hand lettered signs are daily occurrences. My favorite will continue to be one I used to see over thirty years ago on West Fourteenth Street when I lived in the West Village. It was a breakfast special that offered eggs with two stripes of bacon. I may have never stopped to think it wasn't intentional had it not been accompanied by "steak and oinoins" elsewhere on the sign.

eGullet could be a source of life saving advice, not just tips on restaurants. In Paris I was mistaken for an intellectual because of my velours pants (actually corduroy in English). I was asked if I was a professor. When I responded "sculptor," I was told that was a justifiable excuse as well. Oh well, I actually don't have immediate plans for a trip to Turkey, but I will store this information.

Pages Blanches, the French online residential telephone directory, lists three phone numbers for her. 01 45 27 05 05 01 45 27 09 09 01 45 25 21 37

This is certainly no reason to apologize. This is a remarkable thread so far. I'm only disappointed to learn that I would have to give up my beard of some forty odd years to fully appreciate Turkey. Carry on, and thanks also to Vilmor for his additions to the thread. I'm not sure however, that anyone but the chefs will be better off if the chefs become celebrities.

Snackbar? Tapasbar? Dessertbar? Something we should look up, though I suspect short of a destination place or something for ladies who are shopping at Bon Marché?

Whether something is worth it or not, is going to be very subjective. That the price is justifiable is something else. The relative value in things lies as much in our ability to appreciate them as anything. The connoisseur is always going to be willing to pay a bit more. Kaiseki? What is often referred to as tea ceremony food. It's probably a high art form and most definitely not overtly concerned with sating a large appetite. I think there's a fair amount of elegant food and restaurant food that approaches the ideal, but requires less rigorous appreciation and is less expensive. For most people that's a close as they may want to get. The meat and potatoes guy will find a falling off in value right away. Those who complain about portion sizes in nouvelle cuisine tasting menus should probably avoid kaiseki if they get the chance. Here's a web site that's probably not an ideal explanation, but at least it's an introduction. If it were not past my bed time, I might do better.

Now that you mentioned it, I think there was a Luchows that opened somewhere after the one on 14th Street was torn down. I was never there, but seem to recall it didn't hold a candle to the original one according to reports. Luchow's moved to midtown Manhattan in 1982 and closed a few years later. For the history buffs and those old enough to be nostalgic about Luchow's, here are a few clippings. Luchow's 75th Anniversary- Tips on Tables - Robert W. Dana - April 1957. World War Two Rationing in NYC from the New York Herald Tribune - Sunday, July 11, 1943, with just a brief mention of Luchow's.

I remember when Kunz redid the kitchen, just the kitchen, at Lespinasse and it was the first million dollar kitchen. I also distinctly recall that when Daniel reopened on Park Avenue, the tab (for the restaurant renovation, not dinner) was said to be $12 million. So Trotter is finally in. It will be interesting to see the effect of having these restaurants all in the same ... er, mall. It's not like "let's go down to the mall and if we can't get in to Per Se we can have some sushi next door." These are destination places. Perhaps there will be an electronic board near the elevators for those who can never make reservations--"Immedate seating in _______."

Bemelmens was an artist and writer for both children and adults. His early jobs were working in restaurants. He was also a part owner of a restaurant and painted the murals in the bar at the Carlyle Hotel in NY. The bar is known as the Bemelmen's Bar. Bemelmens himself is best known for the Madeline series of children's books. Ludwig Bemelmans, author and illustrator of more than 40 books for children and adults, was born in the Austrian Tyrol on April 27, 1898. His father was a painter; his mother was the daughter of a prosperous brewer. Bemelmans was a rebellious child, and never completed his formal education. When he was a teenager, his parents apprenticed him to his Uncle Hans, who owned a string of resort hotels in the Tyrol. After the 16-year-old Bemelmans shot a head-waiter during a dispute, his family gave him the option of going to reform school or emigrating to America. Bemelmans chose the latter and arrived in New York in 1914, carrying two pistols with which to fend off hostile Indians. --from the www.penguinputnam.com page on the author. Is that when Luchow's closed? I guess so. I remember it fondly, although I hadn't been there in a while when it closed. I remember thinking I was sorry to see it go in spite of the fact that I wouldn't have been likely to be eating there much. I suspected I knew I'd miss it more in 20 years. I remember the herring in mustard sauce in the dining room and I remember beer and hamburgers in the tap room. It was a large sprawling German restaurant with ornately carved wood paneling. It went clear through from Thirteenth to Fourteenth Streets. There was an oomp-pah band in the dining room, at least on some nights. That's what made the bar room so attractive. There's only one of us.

Victor, I think you're doing Simon an injustice. Fate and Santamaria's reputation have drawn him to San Celoni. As he wrote earlier, "I finally decided to pack up my now considerable belongings and see for myself where all the hype of the new Spanish Culinaria is coming from. No I am not at El Bulli, even though one day I might end up being a dead cat (you know what curiosity--anyway) but decided to go for the more "grounded" cuisine of Santi Santamaria at El Raco de Can Fabes. Thanks, in part, ... to what many of you have written about Spain and its emergence as a culinary tour de force, and to an old colleague/sommelier from my first year at L'Oustau de Baumaniere who now works for Chef Santamaria, I decided to make a reservation at El Raco de Can Fabes." "one day out of the blue some three months after we had dined there, I get a call from Javier Torres, head chef at Can Fabes with not only a job proposal but a real position (chef de partie--something unattainable at Baumaniere) and a real salary." That Simon is discovering Catalan food in Catalonia is not to his discredit. I doubt his two years staging and working in France left him time to do much research. As for his coming here for help, where else can one find such information in English, particularly on contemporary Spanish cooking and where else can find those willing to share knowledge on the subject? Simon, I'm hardly an expert on Catalan cooking, but for me it's got to start with fresh seafood and maybe some intensely seafood flavored wet rice. Maybe that's not even what a local thinks of as local food, but that's been some of my most memorable tastes in the area.