Bux

I always loved chocolate, even the candy bars aimed at kids, so it just seemed a normal consequence to learn to appreciate artisinal chocolate, but as someone who doesn't have fond memories of a certain American artificially colored and flavored jelly candy, I did not come quickly or eaisly to pâte de fruits, but what an intense joy they were after I discovered them--or at least the best of them.

We all have different needs. My problem with chains, and particularly with international chains, is that the world looks and feels the same all over. It's not that I mind the appearance of the chain shops, but I fear they force out the places with local color. Travel gets easier all the time, but it gets a little less interesting. For someone who travels on business, I suppose that's not a problem.

I may be reading the original post incorrectly, but I get the impression that while food is a strong interest, it is not the primary interest in choosing the restaurant, not that I could really fault Arpege on its atmosphpere.

If I'm not mistaken there is, or was, some connection between the FCI in NYC and le Ferrandi in Paris. Le name "le Ferrandi" was associated with the FCI, although it may only have been the name of it's restaurant which is currently called l'Ecole. I seem to recall a decision being made by someone that "Ferrandi" sounded too Italian to New Yorkers. Lisa posted this some time ago. That may be the full explanation.I find it very interesting and encouraging that the school includes regional cooking in its studies. I hope we can hear more about the program and about your experiences in Paris. Where do the non French speaking students come from and does it seem as if they are intent on becoming professional career cooks or plan on some other culinary arts related career. I assume a one year program would pretty much rule out hobbyists, but maybe not.

I'd be most curious to know which places elicited a "blah" review. It might be really helpful to understand her tastes. Those three places would please me as would Le Bernadin, Atelier, and Oceana. Oceana is probably the least French. Then again haute cuisine as practiced in NY or Paris, is not as French as it used to be. There's a new international style that's as much influenced by Catalunya and the Pais Vasco as it is by France and I wouldn't discount the American contribution these days. Ducasse still seems very French, but Vongerichten, Boulud and Ripert almost seem like Americans at times which says more about their growth since they've been here, than any thing else. At any rate, haute cuisine is most often subtle and could easily elicit a "blah" review for those not initiated into that type of food.

Felonius, I enjoy red with many fish dishes, especially those with gelée de viande or red wine in the sauce. I enjoy a light red with grilled salmon as well. I also tend to think of rare tuna as "meat." It more than any other fish seems to call for red wine in my mouth. Based on the comments here, I'm curious to try the clam chowder at Mix. Based on my lunch there and whatever one can deduce about a kitchen from that, I was surprised to read a comment about the chowder being overly rich in cream. I had the famous New England clam chowder at the Grand Central Oyster Bar and found that absurdly rich in cream and decidedly lacking in flavor, although full of clams, yet often recommended (not by me).

Hmm. Maybe I'm not a connoisseur, or maybe I'm just desparate, but I've enjoyed most of the blood sausage I've had in NY, not that it's all that commonly found. I haven't had an Argentine mixed grill in a long time. Bathazar has a nice breakfast dish, or at least a weekend brunch dish of blood sausages, poached eggs and potatoes.

Lisa welcome to the France forum. I hope we hear more about le Ferrandi from you. Loufood has written extensively about le Cordon Bleu. It would be good to get some information about le Ferrandi on a separate thread.

I saw tripe on a recent Cafe Boulud menu. This is from the current web site. For what it's worth, many dim sum parlors offer small portions of tripe. Most Pho places offer omosa as a soup addition. I believe that's leaf or book tripe.

Word. I give Grimes credit for taking himself out of the reviewing game when his enthusiasm ebbed. I must have missed the review where he was enthusiastic about his meal. I thought someone would come to the defense of Asimov, who does talk about food with enthusiasm. Grimes never left an impression of being a man with whom it would be fun to eat. If he enjoyed his work, he never let on in the comments he's made about his job or in the way he's spoken of people who cook for a living. Grimes may have been enthusiastic about writing restaurant reviews, but I never sensed it was in relation to an enthusiam about food. Ruth Reichel had her faults, as we all do, but she left the impression that she was genuinely lucky to have a job that required her to eat in restaurants.

I take back the comment that there's anything admirable about a reviewer whose tastes aren't all encompassing, or at least can't convincingly withhold that information from the public. I discussed this point with a professional who said he wouldn't be surprised if restauranteurs wouldn't tailor their menus to the taste of influential reviewers. It well advertised, the taste of whoever the New York Times picks as a reviewer may have considerable influence on what we eat, or at least on what's offered to us at a new restaurant.

Of course not, but I hear from very reliable sources that dessert calories only count if you've ordered the dessert. The ones on your partner's plate are entirely guilt free. My only defense these days is to order two desserts if I can't find one my wife doesn't like. Oh yes, walking is an essential hobby. As long as we don't have days and days of rain, we can usually avoid putting on weight no matter what we eat.

I can't help you out with a suggestion of a neighborhood. Unfortunately I'm still getting to know Madrid myself as I've not had the opportunity to spend much time there so far, but look forward to my next trip. Madrid is a large city and unlike Barcelona or the much smaller San Sebastian, I don't think it reveals itself very easily to short term tourists. I just want to welcome you to the Spain forum. I saw your informative post in the Asturias thread and welcome it very much. I wish you luck in your search for a place to live and hope we can get to hear from you on a regular basis after you've settled into Madrid. There are a few Madridleños on the board. Hopefully, they'll be able to offer some advice on your search as well as after you're living there.

The original Paul is in Lille. There are some 30 Pauls in Paris alone. It's quite a successful chain and the quality is very good. In the Buci shopping street you will find a Paul at 77 rue de Seine, 17 et 21 rue de Buci. http://www.paul.fr/magasins/fr_magasins.htm - to search for other addresses in France or abroad (Dubai, UK, Japan, etc.)

You're talking to someone who realized he ordered poorly--foie gras ravioles and boudin noir is not a light combination for lunch--so he called the waiter over and asked if he could add a shared portion of the salmon in cream sauce with his companion so as to lighten the average quality of the meal, as if one only had to digest the average and not the sum total of all he ate. Dessert was good was well, but I did fall asleep almost immediately as soon as we got back in the car. Fortunately, that was a few moments after we pulled off into a rest stop.

We took the elevator to Asiate the other day, but it had a view. Did the Rainbow Room have a view? I've never been there. I didn't find the elevator ride any more objectionable than having to pass through a hotel lobby on my way to a restaurant. At Lespinasse, I had to walk up several steps and pass though a hotel space. In Chicago I had to ride an elevator and then pass though the lobby of a hotel--I seem to recall it was the Four Seasons--to get the restaurant and I wasn't staying at the hotel. In Chinatown, there are any number of restaurants that have drawn a clientele in the basement and the second floor. Personally, I much prefer to climb to my dinner than descend. If it's a destination restaurant, I don't think it makes any difference at all not being on the street. For a walk in restaurant, it could hurt. On the otherhand, does anyone know how many people are going to be living in those towers. I have a strong impression that most of those people are likely to dine out more often than the average New Yorker. Just guessing at the number of cancellations restaurants get on blizzard nights, this "food court" has a pretty good build in clientele. No overcoat, no umbrella, no galoshes for dinner sounds like an idea whose time has come, at least this month. I've made reservatations at restaurants above the ground floor in cities all over the world and never thought twice about it. The idea that New Yorkers are so provincial that they can't adapt to new concepts is absurd and an opinion that there aren't enough of us willing to go three or four floors out of our way for a destination restaurant is almost insulting. Per Se, if it lives up to even a major degree of expectation will be a draw for gastronomic tourism and those making their reservations from out of state or overseas won't even consider it's location, let alone think of it as a drawback.

You're talking to someone who has ruined one of his trips to France as well as what might potentially have been his finest meal ever, by eating too much excellent but heavy food too early and too often on a trip, although it might be said we made proper use of Andre Daguin's talents by eating as much fois gras and just plain gras de canard at his Hotel de France in a few days, the year he retired. I pace myself as carefully as I can now. It's rare that I'll eat a three course lunch, if dinner is important that night. By the same token, dinner is a snack or tapas, if I've had a big lunch. I'm trying to remember where I last had good pommes frites in Paris. I'm not sure, but it may have been years ago at Vaudeville, the Flo brasserie. They came with either the steak or the andouillette. I can't remember whose order they garnished. Although a good chicken is a wonderful dish in France, I don't remember ordering roast chicken in Paris. Perhaps Benoit or Chez Georges. Both are less expensive that l'Ami Louis.

Bushey, Those were dinner prices. I suspect lunch is the same price. If price is a concern, you might want to know what was on the 28 euro Menu du Jour platter of Lyonnaise charcuterie -or- hash of white cabbage with soft boiled egg (mollet) and confit of duck crayfish quenelle -or- calves' liver with parsley and thinly sliced pan fried potatoes fresh cheese -or- Chocolat Viennois with vanilla ice cream I had the calves' liver from the a la carte menu and it was superb. It was also the least expensive item on the menu at 18 euros. I was actually a bit disappointed by the carte because I had my heart set on tripe and particularly on that Lyonnaise specialty tablier de sapeur which got an excellent mention in a review I had read. It's a short menu and it changes--five entrees, six plats, two cheese selections and four dessert choices. I love calves liver and had recently been very disappointed, as usual, when I ordered it in NY. This was perhaps the best I had ever had. I started to explain to the waiter how I wanted it prepared, when he cut me off saying "rosé. I nodded and replied "oui, c'est ça." The thick slab of liver was excellently cooked just on the red side of pink in the center and it was really a wonderful example of what liver can be. I could have easily had either of the two prix fixe entrees, but I had my heart set on the tarte et île flottante aux pralines roses for dessert anyway and the potted porcelet shin with foie gras sounded too interesting to pass. Mrs. B had the cèpes veloute with blond chicken liver royale and the sauteed pork chop with cranberry beans. The pork chop was very good and the soup was exceptional. I'm not really a fan of praline rouge, but Louisa told me the tartes are actually made in the Plaza Athenee kitchen and suggested they were worth trying. The île flottante was excellent and a treat after the more industrial versions one often finds in restaurants and the tarte was the best use of praline rouge I have yet to taste. It's a bit too sweet and far too red for my taste in general, but I rather enjoyed the result here. The special of the day was a cocotte of cèpes and foie gras at 26 euros--the highest price on the carte. Our bottle of Brouilly ran 31 euros. I don't recall it as being at the bottom of the list either. 46 cl. carafe from Mazy-Chambertin (Domaine Tortochot 2001) was probably a good deal at 42 euros. It was also available at 14 euros a 15 cl. glass. The restaurant is crowded with little space between tables for privacy or for service and the waiters are overworked as one might expect in a bistro of this sort, but the waiters are patient and friendly and I felt our service got even better and a bit warmer as the waiter undersood we knew what we were ordering and were enjoying our food very much. I suspect we weren't atypical diners. We heard quite a bit of English spoken, with accents from both sides of the pond, at the tables around us, but most of the anglophones seemed either quite at home in a Parisian bistro or in the tow of a French host. It's a pity about l'Astrance, but you're not going to be able to hit all the highlights of Parisian restaurants in three or four days anyway and it's somewhat of a blessing that your choices are limited by factors beyond your control. Our dilemma, when traveling or even when dining out at home, is not where to eat, but which restaurants to elimanate from the short list.

I don't know how I could convince anyone of the difference between the best charcuterie and the basest lunch meat in the supermarket. If you don't get what others appreciate, I suppose you don't get it and won't unless you take the time and effort to understand why others revere that which you're willing to dismiss. The same probably goes for an appreciation of what Adria is doing. At any rate, he's certainly not scared of working with industrial processes and I don't understand why he should be. Fuel for arguments on both sides may be found at the Inicom site. You can start at the eGullet Inicom thread. For too many of us, you're either for the local farmer or you're for agribusiness and genetic modification. There's plenty of middle ground and room for chefs to work with science and industry without being accused of selling out. In the meantime, I strongly suspect few of Adria's critics here have eaten his food and from their perspective the emperor has no clothers and the world appears to be flat. I'll base my opinion that Adria's work is fascinating from having experienced it as well as having read about it. Those of you who want to continue trying to convince me that I shouldn't respect what he's doing on the basis that you don't respect it enough to try it can go right ahead.

Without remembering a date or the names, I had some recollection of the story about it being created on the spot for a visiting dignitary. It seems odd that it would develop as a local tradition, but it's a nice story. It would be interesting to know when the first appearance of chocolate was made in a savory dish in Spain. From what little I've read, chocolate was used in liquid form by the Mayans. They drank chocolate. They didn't eat it. By the time Sister Andreas created mole (who am I to dispute this) I assume things had changed.

I knew migas were crumbs, but I really had no idea what Migas con Chocolate was, but I appreciate the connection made with garlic and chocolate here. Maybe there aren't many Spanish savory dishes that use chocolate. I've had an excellent mole sauce with chocolate in a Mexican restaurant in Chicago. Chicago has a large Mexican community and is a better place for Mexican food that NYC, but of course not as good as Mexico. I don't know much about mole, or Mexican cooking, but I don't think mole is a native dish that goes back before Columbus and I also don't have any idea how it might relate to any dish in Spain. The use of chocolate in Cordero Agridulce and Perdices con chocolat is interesting. Can anyone provide either recipes or a description of the dishes.

I always find it peculiar when people I know love good food, but have so many food dislikes. In the case of professional reviewers, I also find it admirable that they can separate their personal likes and dislikes from an objective opinion, but how reliable will a review be to a diner when it comes from someone who doesn't share the same enthusiasm for the food. For me, tripe may be the big issue. I had some wonderful tripe the other day, but I may cut off my source of such food if I say too much about it. It was prepared by someone who's testing recipes for cookbook. Before that I had some boned, stuffed and braised pig's feet. My guess is that I won't read the review if Ms. Burros writes one. My point, before I rudely interrupted myself, was that I wish the Times would hire a reviewer who can bring some real enthusiasm for eating with a passion. It would be rewarding to have a dose of that for a while.

I wonder if the temporary shortage of seafood from the region wasn't offset by a public fear of eating seafood from that coast. It's possible that the latter offset the former. For what it's worth, and that's very little that's relevant to this, my wife knows an engineer who had been working on the clean up and who's now gone on to some project in Sierra Leone. I believe he spent some months at sea on a Norwegian ship and nothing nice to say about the food on board.

110 euros - Aux Lyonnais. Could have been less if we took the prix fixe, but we went for two entrees and two plats from the carte and one dessert (tarte aux praline rouge and ile flottant) plus a bottle of water and a decent Brouilly. 91.30 euros - Fish. Again two starters, two mains, one dessert and a half bottle of water, a 50 cl. carafe of Macon Blanc and a Calvados. October 2003 prices.

How the fuck are we pretentious in Paris? Because we're French? Gastronomic? It just pisses me off when I KNOW how hard we work - KNOW what we're like as people - hello we're human - and KNOW how hard we really try to give every single client a perfect experience - but hello again we're human - and we're just dismissed as pretentious. Like it's a given. I have not seen this review - I have not dined at Mix yet - but when someone just tosses off a comment that Paris/ADPA is pretentious, I just think they've got something to prove - and that I'm not getting a straight story. Amen. Was I being too subtle when I said: I don't know that I'd use "stick up his/her ass" to describe my problem with that assessment, but it didn't lend credence to what followed.. Where I come from, well maybe where I've arrived, an authentic temple of gastronomy is something to be cherished. I assumed it was implicit in the original article that the author was saying "we sneer at fine French food and service, It's pretentious." It's odd that he ends his review by crediting Ducasse's brilliance as beyond dispute. Huh? I could also discuss our reactions to the dishes Mrs. B and I had. They were different from Cheses'. Mrs. B found the pot in which the barbeque "personal pot" was served made it uncomfortably awkward to eat the dish, but she loved dish in parts and as a whole as did I. The chicken pot pie was unusual. Cheses describes the filling as goopey. I wondered if I might have also thought that a year ago, but eating some very interesting traditional Spanish goopey stews left me with a taste for that consistency and possibly even a longing. Thus I approached the dish with a different perspective. I'm not impressed with reviewers who are limited by their tastes and dismiss what they don't like. A pejorative comment designed to play to the peanut gallery doesn't tell me what I want to know. For all the mistakes I saw at Mix, I have to give them credit for not pandering to anyone's tastes and I need to see that understanding in a review before I'll find the rest of the review particularly useful. Sometimes a critic can have too much confidence in his own taste.