paul o' vendange

Somewhere, I have seen this, but in light chicken stock only. One method was to bring it up to simmer, with only some portion of the total water added at the inception of the stock, then, on simmering, adding in ice. The instant cold that results presumably congeals liquified fat and entraps impurities during this process. The other technique I've seen - going a long way back, now, please forgive any hazy memory - was to add in chicken bones to cold water and, cold, add in ice, leaving it in the refrigerator for several hours, draining off the resulting liquid. I only used this method once, to my recollection, and that was years ago. My only memory is that there was a prodigious amount of blood that was then poured off - much more than other methods I have used, including a blanch-and-rinse.

As usual, eloquently put. Each to their own, indeed. I guess at the heart of it, for me, anyway, is that I cringe at the whole notion of "foodie." At the risk of coming off like a complete prig, the word reminds me of "shakespeare junkie," and many other like terms. May utterly be my mind that misconstrues it all, but to me the word immediately cleaves self from food; from the experience of it, primordially. I hope to raise our son with the notion that food is primitive. It is simple. Even haute cuisine, done well, a reminder of nature - much like the most complex of symphonies, merely sublimations of pilgrimage chants, peasant rhythms, whatever. Normal. Not the trappings, but the pure, delirious sensation of it all - if our boy grows up really being blown away by the smell of thyme, lemon, garlic; if we can give to him the same joy we take in all this, I'd be happy he was given something of great worth. It starts young.

I roast bone in everything. For the pork, like many others, I aim for the blade end - excising the blade and meat above it for a different treatment, roasting off the remaining loin; for one, stuffing herbs, salt, pepper, garlic between the ribs and meat, and dive in, or a light brine over several days (unless the pork is already extraordinarily flavorful). I do try to find some great pork - I prefer Berkshire - but bone in? Definitely my preference.

I haven't yet chimed in, and others have said it, but here goes my humble $0.02. I want our son to grow up with a deep appreciation for good food, and the enjoyment of a fine meal over the course of many hours. He won't get this by talk. We try to inculcate in him respect for others; as well, that he is also a valuable person, worthy of being heard and respected. His journey started young - at our restaurant - and he developed a palate that for his age, I'd say, was a joy to see - distinguishing between subtleties that I wasn't privy to until well into adulthood. And it will only grow from there. Inasmuch as we wouldn't sacrifice the enjoyment of others by allowing him to misbehave in a restaurant, neither do we frequent places that treat us as anathema because we have a kid. One such place, in Chicago, did so - and though we were regulars at its companion, next door, this particular misstep meant we will never go back. I think it all goes to respect. Respect for others, respect for self. Provide this, and everything else follows.

I'd call it a meal, but that's because this gaulois is actually, primitively, German-blooded. Née "Boyer," mon arrière-arrière grand père was a german cattleman who settled in France.... My wife and I...we each had a Hefeweisen, Green Mill, Chicago, nearly 20 years ago. She sipped with such sensuality, her lips curling into a gentle smile even then and.... I'll stop there.

My memory swings back years ago, to Berkeley, to a "Happy Fungus Soup." When I asked the waitress what this was, she said "fungus...it's good for you." I finally got it that this was a hot-sour soup with sliced mushroom...

Just an endnote - my wife ended up bailing on the North Square event and had an early, really nice meal at Le Singe Vert. She got day-of tickets to see Kevin Kline in Lear (floored by the performance). FYI to any interested, they've extended the performances for a few more weeks. This entire trip to NY was her first, and I owe my thanks to her parents for giving their daughter a well-deserved get away.

Agreed. I always asked for the first 6 ribs from the shoulder, and asked for the blade to be excised, so it presents similar to a center loin chop. We did double chops of these, bone-in. Beautifully marbled, deeply vascularized - almost a purple red. The only problem was one of consistent sizing, but in my mind, infinitely worth it. FWIW, I know Venison America gets this in, or used to anyway, when I asked for the spec. (standard disclaimer - no connection - just always did right by me).

Just a followup to this - my wife will be going to a wine-pairing event at Northsquare Restaurant and Lounge. Firesteed wines will be presenting their pinot, and the Chef will be doing his take on traditional Burgundian cuisine. This sounds great - my wife is the winner of the WCR International Pinot Noir Celebration Fellowship, and will be heading out to Oregon this summer for some serious fun - and she is really looking forward to the Northsquare evening. Chef Cruz' menu: STUFFED GOUGÈRE gruyere puffs stuffed with foie gras mousse, served with fruit chutney and balsamic glaze Oregon Appellation Pinot Gris 2003 CURED SALMON CRÊPES cucumber, red peppers, salmon roe, cornichon, chervil crème fraîche Oregon Appellation Pinot Noir 2005 ORANGE GLAZED DUCK BREAST roasted fries, grilled onions, mustard béarnaise, orange & cassis au jus Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2001 VENISON BOURGUIGNONNE herbed potato galette, baked tomato, shallot & mushroom red wine sauce Citation, Reserve Pinot Noir 1995 FROMAGE BOURGOGNE & LES FRAISES Citation, Sparkling Brut NV Jealous, to be sure. Anyone else been there? Experiences?

Thanks everybody, some great suggestions. Plattetude, thanks for the cheesemaking suggestion. Funny you mention it - this is something she's expressed an interest in for some time. While I will be working my butt off in Paris next year, she will be doing some...er...."sensory evaluation" on her end of the kitchen door, in French wine and cheese. Much appreciated, Paul

Hi all, My wife has an upcoming trip and she'll be staying at the New Yorker. She's looking for a nice mid-range prixe fixe option for dinner mid-week. Any suggestions? Additionally, she's looking for a good cheese shop to scour. Thoughts here would be great as well. Thanks, Paul

I like to use mirin, especially to balance out salty character. I will also tweak things with refined sugar as a remedial measure if the natural sugar that "should" be in something - like a less than optimal roma - is missing, and I'm out of luck for a better choice (as happened in the hinterland from time to time). I also use it in things like a fennel poach, with the fennel intended for marriage with "sweet" meats like shellfish.

I understand, Chris. However, I can tell you that at our place, it was a big part of our joy (our, meaning mine and my wife's, the crew, and our guests) that everything we did was about giving over the experience...whether it was me to welcome people coming for the first time, to see them puzzling over a wine selection (and if I happened to be there, to offer some suggestions), or to answer "how did you make this prosciutto out of duck?" In other words, a communal thing. Sure, it was an ego stroke as well to hear from people very much enjoying their experience. But at the heart of it, the desire to share. Can't know whether that sounds saccharine or not, but it is sincerely what drove everything we did. More, we tried to end the distinction between the front of house and the back of house - service staff needed to know the details of everything that came out of the kitchen; they needed to know not only what everything was, what went into it (and why), and how it was made; but they needed to know their own thoughts about everything as they had learned by regularly tasting our food and wine. Back of house needed to understand that absent satisfying service needs, our food was nothing. I don't think it's appropriate for the Chef to parade, "love-boat" style. But motivated by sincere intentions, and the desire to augment the guest's experience, I think it's a rather nice thing.

I love Culinary Artistry, for just this reason. I have depended on it a good deal, both as a reference and a launching point. I have not read it, but have heard wonderful things about The Elements of Taste. Reminds me - its on my Amazon cart...

Yes, and off the top of my head I don't know that I know any truly "self-taught" cooks. Although "molecular gastronomy" certainly throws a kink in the (I think it was Andre Soltner's) notion "there is no new food," I think this is largely true - whether from formal study, vicarious study, or direct work with "one who proceeded before," new food rests on old food. Thomas Keller, for instance, spent time with Roland Henin and staged at Taillevent, Guy Savoy and Le Pré Catalan. (I knew the first two stages, didn't know the latter).

I'm of the philosophy that if they are coming in and paying their money, the table's theirs for as long as they want it. They are there to enjoy themselves, at their pace, not mine. On the rare (actually, I can only think of one time) instance where this truly is a problem, I'm afraid it's the restaurant's problem, not the guest's.

Sleep. Nurse the pain in my joints. Then try to pretend I'm still an athletic young buck for my little boy, who needs dad to play "pirate swordfight."

Yes, definitely, which is why I go with parchment.

Interesting discussion. One thing I would be curious about is the relative holding power of essential v. infused (flavored) oils. I regularly made several herb (thyme, rosemary, basil, fennel) oils, as well as shellfish oils and butters (i.e., coral butter, lobster oil). The herb oils, while beautifully, deeply green and intensely flavored, had a very poor shelf life - while their color remained vibrant for some time, and were a nice component on the plate, their deep, intensive flavor (and aroma) were very short lived. I'd be curious on some of the science behind this, when compared to the essential oils as described above.

I have Braise and have to say it is really good. I like the fact that it is more world cuisine than just French. Btw Paul Bocuse has a new cookbook out in March. Check the link to Barnes and Noble I have included. I should also add that I love my copy of Larousse Gastronomique, a very handy guide. If you want a cookbook with a smart ass attitude ( and just consider who the author is.) Les Halles Cookbook is really good too. You just can't own this cookbook though if you are easily offended by the colorful language. It is described as more of a field mannual and it does not disappoint. Le Bernardin Cookbook is really good too if you want a cookbook that just specializes in seafood. Barnes and Noble ← I will check out those books, thanks! ← Just a note - but I love the Les Halles book. But then, I love all things Bourdain. He has a comment there on a customer ordering ribeye (a comment which I will leave out on this august forum) which is priceless. Actually, too close to home...we actually had that very thing happen once. Customer ate 2/3 of the plate, then wanted money back as the ribeye "had fat in it" - not even that it was "too fatty," but, verbatim, "it had fat in it." The one time I refused to comp. Ah, Sir Bourdain, how well you know this peculiar corner of the world...

Ludja - the book by Jane Sigal sounds great. Just grabbed it off of Amazon, many thanks.

Old thread, to which I have little to add; beginning 30+ years ago, as a kid, I relied on M. Pepin's La Technique, and it has stood me in good stead over the years; Madeleine Kamman's Making of a Cook and LaRousse have been among the weightier tomes I've used as well. Many, many others as well, most of them having already been brought up. With the technique books, I've always sought out information on French regional cooking. Paula Wolfert's Cooking of Southwest France, Mme. Kamman's Savoie Cooking, M. Bocuse's Regional Cooking (an old friend, now - uh, the book, not the Chef!), and, well and often, Waverly Root's The Food of France. Not a technique or recipe book in any sense of the word, rather (in my mind, at least), a wonderfully crafted tale of French culinary and cultural history - why French food is what it is, from a regional point of view. Perhaps my favorite read (well, when I am not enjoying Bourdain, or wistfully musing on a time I will never be part of, reading Zola).

Paul, not in my experience. I gave them a try several times - white truffles. Absolutely without character in my experience, and I'm not exaggerating. literally, no flavor and almost no aroma. I might have had a run of bad luck, but given the extraordinary wealth among the other Oregon mountain mushrooms I shipped in regularly, I found these wholly wanting. (By the way - no relationship, but if any want a good Oregon source, I enjoyed working with Ottoboni Mushrooms very much).

Paul, thanks for that recipe. Outstanding. I've had this before and not known the name. ← You bet, Johnny. Any chance I have to deal with a good Alsacian Riesling, I take it! By the way, off topic, but some friends of mine recently returned from a trip to Alsace and had a great time chez Marc Tempé. An impromptu road trip yielded a tasting of over 30 bottles, with the winemaker himself.

Well, I love a classic matelote, freshwater fish stew. Mixed with other freshwater fishes, Alsacian style, with riesling or pinot gris, egg yolks and creme fraiche. I first make a quick fumet with fish heads, bones, mirepoix (white and light green leek, onion, carrot - no celery), bouquet garni, and riesling or pinot gris; about 1 1/2 pounds fish heads/bones, 2 cups each water and wine to about 5 ounces onion, 3 ounces each leeks and carrots; bouquet also contains a small fennel frond, 1 ounce or so). 30 minute simmer, strain. Add fishes, about 4 lbs total, into gently simmering fumet, in small batches - ensuring the simmer does not cool down unduly. Cook till done, about 20 minutes. Remove fish and keep warm, reduce fumet by 1/2, beat 3 egg yolks together with 1/2 cup creme fraiche (or cream), temper with simmering fumet, and whisk back into fumet, at very low heat; stir until thickened, toss fish in to heat through, salt, pepper, serve. I also love freshwater fishes with green sauce - a ravigote, or vinaigrettes.