paul o' vendange

Truly impossible for me to limit to three; my "faves" change all the time, often depending on the weather, wine we've got on board, etc. In no particular order, France: Osau Iraty Tomme de Fedou; Epoisse de Bourgogne; aged crotin; laguiole pont l'eveque Raclette Roquefort Bleu D'Auvergne Tomme de Savoie Spain: Garrotxa Manchego Switzerland: Gruyere Vacherin Fribourgeois England Double Gloucester Stilton U.S.: Humboldt Fog Schwarz und Weiss, triple cream Amish blue Right now, in our fridge, Garrotxa, Osau Iraty, Tomme de Fedou, so, them's the current faves. The Fedou, in particular, with its direct connection to the sheep, is a subtle, but discernibly pleasant stank I can't get enough of. Well, when I'm not going nuts over the hay and meadow of Vacherin. I give up. Trois? Impossible!

I don't think it's a silly question...in fact, it's something that's come up for me recently. I'm from the Pacific Northwest - whenever I hear "smoked salmon", I think of the "flakey" stuff - brined and smoked. But, a good friend of mine constantly refers to what I consider lox as smoked salmon. Now, I don't understand why you would call this "smoked". It's soaked in brine, but it's not smoked is it? (I'm no salmon expert, so maybe it is and I'm missing something, but the stuff I've tasted that she's brought over from Ireland doesn't have a smoked flavor like the stuff I find in Seattle does - at least not IMO) Now this friend is from Ireland and all of her family refer to these lox things as 'smoked salmon' as well. So, I'm thinking maybe it's just a cultural thing - and maybe you should look at the origin of the recipe (i.e.: from the US used "flaked", from the UK use "lox"). That's just a guess off the top of my head, but that's what I would do. ETA: Although, I do agree with Hendry dV on not using lox in a recipe and going with the flakey if it's going to be cooked. ← To add to the confusion, my taxonomy would be, cold smoked is a type of "lox," but not all "lox" is smoked. In practice, though, when I think of "lox," I do generally think of very simply cured, cold smoked salmon. But "gravlax" or "gravad lox" extends to the salmon cured, often with spices and herbs, without smoking - mine, for instance, is cured with salt, ez sugar, a variety of citrus rinds, green herbs (parsley, tarragon, chervil), and a bit of cognac. I also cold smoke with a simple salt/sugar cure. I wonder "why not?" about the use of cold-smoked salmon in a recipe calling for cooked salmon. I prefer cold smoked salmon to hot-smoked salmon, as with the former, the fish's oils are preserved and I appreciate the texture and versatility. I would think using cold-smoked salmon in a cooked presentation would be fine, perhaps even render a better result. I often do this, anyway - i.e., (par) cold smoke duck breasts, poussin, lobster, even tomatoes and other vegetables - only to finish in a hot presentation.

This is an interesting discussion; there is something I would also like to clarify. I think everything has to do with thresholds - sensory thresholds ("yuck - spoiled!"), and thresholds past which the body will feel the ill-effects of contaminants, or enough contaminants will enter the body to replicate before the body can fight off the infection, hence, sickness. There is little "absolute" in cooking, in terms of contamination, absent sterilization - the absolute killing off of all microbes and their spores, and maintenance of this environment through aseptic practice (such as canning). I think what we do is better named sanitization- we reduce microbial loads to allowable limits, and make it difficult for these beasties to grow past allowable limits by heat, then cold. Foodborne, even airborne contaminants exist everywhere - we are eating contaminated food everyday, with every bite, or nearly so. When I posted "I wouldn't use it," what I should have said is "I wouldn't use it for service, or more than that day, or next." In other words, the scenario I envisioned was leaving the stock out, then putting it away. The population density of contaminant microorganisms may or not be large enough to surpass threshold levels by the end of the first day, but even in the refrigerator, absent a lengthy enough boil to kill off the bacteria and spores that result from the period sitting out, it will only retard what will be an inevitable process. A few days later at best, I would bet, and the stock is spoiled. Beyond this, even if the microbial load was itself low, I would wonder about their by-products, producing off-effects. Not worried about toxins, so much, in an aerobic environment, as much as nasty by-products of respiration and replication. Re: hot stock in a fridge. I think two problems are at hand: the hot stock may indeed heat up the fridge, as posted above, such that the cooling period is unduly long (large vessel/small fridge area). Or, the ability of the fridge to cool the liquid inside the stock vessel by external, ambient temp is really inefficient; either way, the length of time inside the microbial growth zone is long. The immersion stick method provides direct heat transfer, and is more efficient (rate of heat transfer is higher) in cooling the liquid to reasonable ranges.

Sorry, but past 4 hours, you're inviting unacceptably high-levels of contamination. This applies to everything. Additionally, it isn't as if 4 hours is a magic benchmark - any time you leave food out within the temparature range of microbial contaminants, with adequate nutrition (your food), and environmental factors (i.e., air, and not properly canned anaerobic environment), you will be getting contamination. 4 hours is a threshold estimate, but no time left out is good.

Nothing intelligent to add, just a chuckle, as somewhere in the recess of my mind I must have just thought this was one of the cool things busboys do, along with the ability to carry 13 coke glasses in their arms. (OK, OK, I used to be able to carry 13 glasses - Brown, Thompson & Co. called it "flair." But I digress).

Mike, I have resisted joining in, as I think we're getting off Tim's original topic, but just a couple of thoughts. Every "successful" restaurant or concept you mentioned in your earlier post was other than fine dining. There is no doubt it is easier to make a go of it in "fast casual" dining, for example, with an average check of $6, than $60; the profit is simply better. Speaking purely personally, I also haven't any interest in spending my time making this kind of food or joining the legion of Chipotle clones in moving from a "mom and pop" to a chain. So, I accept I'm going to make crap in the way of compensation, and likely will die tired, not exactly rolling in dough. I do think you are confusing something though. No one is asking for a handout. You are exactly right that what we do is a business, not a charity - but this holds everywhere. Because it is a business, what will be will be. You pay adequately relative to your team's desire to stay and provide their sweat, they will stay. You don't, they leave. But it's all part of some personal calculus. Much as a customer might think a $300 meal was eminently worth it, and might feel ripped off by a $1.50 hot dog, so might, so do, many people think working in a great kitchen offering other-than-high $10's of $10,000's in salary is just fine - because they get something of adequate value for their labor. Others don't. Others, such as yourself, want more money, so they seek other avenues. I say, godspeed to everyone. No one is preventing anyone from making choices. We all impute value to what we do and decide what that is worth.

Great topic! My wife constantly bemoans my love of these things. I absolutely cannot use anything else - my hands just no longer work without them. Unfortunately, I'm also a wastrel. If I'm a freak about a clean station, I'm a loser when it comes to using them judiciously - one bit of soil, I toss them into the bin and get another. As I do at home, and our basket is lined with more towels than anything else. I have two kinds - white, rectangular, pale green stripe lengthwise; I use these wet for anchoring cutting boards, wiping finishe plates, etc. Others, plush, blue striped - pans, oven basting, etc.

Pille, tere tere! From a Gaul married to an Estonian-blooded one, thanks for this...I will pass these goodies on to her clan!

Respectfully, I don't know that that's quite it, though, Mike, is it? Absolutely - market rules. But in a small area, who is making $20 per hour, or, for that matter, paying $800 rent? Nevertheless, I do think there is a culture based on illusion among the students and recent grads-cum-Next Celebrity-Wunderkinds, and they are in for a rude awakening when the reality of the industry hits them square between the eyes. I know in our instance, we paid every position at a far better rate than was obtained anywhere in our region. I know what it is to slog it out and get paid merde, so I wanted to do everything we could. But it is nowhere near a decent livelihood, by any objective standard - and my wife and I were, objectively, the lowest on the totem pole, going months without paying ourselves a dime. As you say, the market rules - but it rules on both sides of the aisle. As you did, if such a condition makes you say the hell with it, you leave the industry. I wish conditions were such that the industry could work under another paradigm, but with margins as razor thin as they are, I do not know of any other way. I don't want to put words in your mouth. Maybe the question you raise is whether the industry itself needs to go the way of the dodo bird. If so, I'd say this is a legitimate, and difficult, question. My view's pretty clear. I know I loathe what I see in so many industries, not just food: rampant consolidation and, from my perspective, the destruction that results. But plenty like what results, and if this is what the market wants, it will get it.

How about making a mix of melted shallot, tarragon, salt and pepper, EZ olive oil, slipping it under the skin (is this skin on, or skinless?), and roasting them off? Actually, doing something like this for tonight's grub - except, searing the breasts, and will be basting with a jus of stock, tarragon, tomato, mushroom.

Man, Tim, I feel for you. We were in precisely this situation. We lived in a northern outpost, the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, and established Waterstone in the Spring of 2004. There is a culinary program, but in 2-4 years' time, as I understand it, they get one day - one day - on stock making, and their practical work is similarly thin over the course of the program. Additionally, despite our earnest and repeated attempts to reach out to the program in the way of offering internships, etc., we never heard from them once during our tenure. Perhaps it is summed up by one person who actually did come our way from the program - who left after day two of stockmaking, because she only "wanted to cook for celebrities." Quote. Tant pis pour eux, et c'est la vie. Like yourself, we, too, butchered everything on premises, maintained up to 10 or so stocks, in-house charcuterie and patisserie, etc., and it was a tremendous challenge to draw in people, and train them to do what was needed to be done. Par for the course, and absolutely what needed to be, I was pulling 17-20 hour days, 7 days per week for the first several months of our life. However, I think in so many ways, I was lucky as they come. If the culinary program was a total wash, when my first sous was picked up by the feds (another colorful tale), a professor from the program stepped in to guest with me, a real pleasure, and now friend; and I made it clear from day one that anyone who wanted to learn to cook in this way, provided they were serious, would be given the opportunity. Two former dishwashers became trusted members on my side of the line - one hot side, next to me, one fully embracing garde manger and all its duties. It was crazy to attempt this where we lived, but to a person, the kitchen staff embraced the rigor and the standard I sought to put in place, and my wife established a similar ethos among the front of house people. Fully 1 month prior to opening, all staff tried food, wine, everything we did; were given the chance (actually, expected) to develop their palate and own a "body-intelligence" as to what Waterstone offered. I do think I was lucky. I also think it had something to do with the chance for these quality people to do something they couldn't have otherwise dreamt of doing in our area, and they took to it with alacrity. I demanded highly of them, and at the same time, I respected and loved them as family. With our closure, I miss them more than anything else. I wish I could pass some encouragement on to you. I honestly feel for your plight and if I can help you in any way, please feel free to PM me anytime.

Somewhere, I have seen this, but in light chicken stock only. One method was to bring it up to simmer, with only some portion of the total water added at the inception of the stock, then, on simmering, adding in ice. The instant cold that results presumably congeals liquified fat and entraps impurities during this process. The other technique I've seen - going a long way back, now, please forgive any hazy memory - was to add in chicken bones to cold water and, cold, add in ice, leaving it in the refrigerator for several hours, draining off the resulting liquid. I only used this method once, to my recollection, and that was years ago. My only memory is that there was a prodigious amount of blood that was then poured off - much more than other methods I have used, including a blanch-and-rinse.

As usual, eloquently put. Each to their own, indeed. I guess at the heart of it, for me, anyway, is that I cringe at the whole notion of "foodie." At the risk of coming off like a complete prig, the word reminds me of "shakespeare junkie," and many other like terms. May utterly be my mind that misconstrues it all, but to me the word immediately cleaves self from food; from the experience of it, primordially. I hope to raise our son with the notion that food is primitive. It is simple. Even haute cuisine, done well, a reminder of nature - much like the most complex of symphonies, merely sublimations of pilgrimage chants, peasant rhythms, whatever. Normal. Not the trappings, but the pure, delirious sensation of it all - if our boy grows up really being blown away by the smell of thyme, lemon, garlic; if we can give to him the same joy we take in all this, I'd be happy he was given something of great worth. It starts young.

I roast bone in everything. For the pork, like many others, I aim for the blade end - excising the blade and meat above it for a different treatment, roasting off the remaining loin; for one, stuffing herbs, salt, pepper, garlic between the ribs and meat, and dive in, or a light brine over several days (unless the pork is already extraordinarily flavorful). I do try to find some great pork - I prefer Berkshire - but bone in? Definitely my preference.

I haven't yet chimed in, and others have said it, but here goes my humble $0.02. I want our son to grow up with a deep appreciation for good food, and the enjoyment of a fine meal over the course of many hours. He won't get this by talk. We try to inculcate in him respect for others; as well, that he is also a valuable person, worthy of being heard and respected. His journey started young - at our restaurant - and he developed a palate that for his age, I'd say, was a joy to see - distinguishing between subtleties that I wasn't privy to until well into adulthood. And it will only grow from there. Inasmuch as we wouldn't sacrifice the enjoyment of others by allowing him to misbehave in a restaurant, neither do we frequent places that treat us as anathema because we have a kid. One such place, in Chicago, did so - and though we were regulars at its companion, next door, this particular misstep meant we will never go back. I think it all goes to respect. Respect for others, respect for self. Provide this, and everything else follows.

I'd call it a meal, but that's because this gaulois is actually, primitively, German-blooded. Née "Boyer," mon arrière-arrière grand père was a german cattleman who settled in France.... My wife and I...we each had a Hefeweisen, Green Mill, Chicago, nearly 20 years ago. She sipped with such sensuality, her lips curling into a gentle smile even then and.... I'll stop there.

My memory swings back years ago, to Berkeley, to a "Happy Fungus Soup." When I asked the waitress what this was, she said "fungus...it's good for you." I finally got it that this was a hot-sour soup with sliced mushroom...

Just an endnote - my wife ended up bailing on the North Square event and had an early, really nice meal at Le Singe Vert. She got day-of tickets to see Kevin Kline in Lear (floored by the performance). FYI to any interested, they've extended the performances for a few more weeks. This entire trip to NY was her first, and I owe my thanks to her parents for giving their daughter a well-deserved get away.

Agreed. I always asked for the first 6 ribs from the shoulder, and asked for the blade to be excised, so it presents similar to a center loin chop. We did double chops of these, bone-in. Beautifully marbled, deeply vascularized - almost a purple red. The only problem was one of consistent sizing, but in my mind, infinitely worth it. FWIW, I know Venison America gets this in, or used to anyway, when I asked for the spec. (standard disclaimer - no connection - just always did right by me).

Just a followup to this - my wife will be going to a wine-pairing event at Northsquare Restaurant and Lounge. Firesteed wines will be presenting their pinot, and the Chef will be doing his take on traditional Burgundian cuisine. This sounds great - my wife is the winner of the WCR International Pinot Noir Celebration Fellowship, and will be heading out to Oregon this summer for some serious fun - and she is really looking forward to the Northsquare evening. Chef Cruz' menu: STUFFED GOUGÈRE gruyere puffs stuffed with foie gras mousse, served with fruit chutney and balsamic glaze Oregon Appellation Pinot Gris 2003 CURED SALMON CRÊPES cucumber, red peppers, salmon roe, cornichon, chervil crème fraîche Oregon Appellation Pinot Noir 2005 ORANGE GLAZED DUCK BREAST roasted fries, grilled onions, mustard béarnaise, orange & cassis au jus Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2001 VENISON BOURGUIGNONNE herbed potato galette, baked tomato, shallot & mushroom red wine sauce Citation, Reserve Pinot Noir 1995 FROMAGE BOURGOGNE & LES FRAISES Citation, Sparkling Brut NV Jealous, to be sure. Anyone else been there? Experiences?

Thanks everybody, some great suggestions. Plattetude, thanks for the cheesemaking suggestion. Funny you mention it - this is something she's expressed an interest in for some time. While I will be working my butt off in Paris next year, she will be doing some...er...."sensory evaluation" on her end of the kitchen door, in French wine and cheese. Much appreciated, Paul

Hi all, My wife has an upcoming trip and she'll be staying at the New Yorker. She's looking for a nice mid-range prixe fixe option for dinner mid-week. Any suggestions? Additionally, she's looking for a good cheese shop to scour. Thoughts here would be great as well. Thanks, Paul

I like to use mirin, especially to balance out salty character. I will also tweak things with refined sugar as a remedial measure if the natural sugar that "should" be in something - like a less than optimal roma - is missing, and I'm out of luck for a better choice (as happened in the hinterland from time to time). I also use it in things like a fennel poach, with the fennel intended for marriage with "sweet" meats like shellfish.

I understand, Chris. However, I can tell you that at our place, it was a big part of our joy (our, meaning mine and my wife's, the crew, and our guests) that everything we did was about giving over the experience...whether it was me to welcome people coming for the first time, to see them puzzling over a wine selection (and if I happened to be there, to offer some suggestions), or to answer "how did you make this prosciutto out of duck?" In other words, a communal thing. Sure, it was an ego stroke as well to hear from people very much enjoying their experience. But at the heart of it, the desire to share. Can't know whether that sounds saccharine or not, but it is sincerely what drove everything we did. More, we tried to end the distinction between the front of house and the back of house - service staff needed to know the details of everything that came out of the kitchen; they needed to know not only what everything was, what went into it (and why), and how it was made; but they needed to know their own thoughts about everything as they had learned by regularly tasting our food and wine. Back of house needed to understand that absent satisfying service needs, our food was nothing. I don't think it's appropriate for the Chef to parade, "love-boat" style. But motivated by sincere intentions, and the desire to augment the guest's experience, I think it's a rather nice thing.

I love Culinary Artistry, for just this reason. I have depended on it a good deal, both as a reference and a launching point. I have not read it, but have heard wonderful things about The Elements of Taste. Reminds me - its on my Amazon cart...