carswell

Sweet spice: cardamon, cinnamon, star anise "Pepper": green pepper, pink pepper, grains of paradise Mexican: Mexican chocolate (with cinnamon), dulce de leche and, hmm... corn? Tisane: verbena, mint and, hmm... linden? Tea: Earl Grey, Lapsang Souchong and, hmm... Keemun? Flower: rose, lavender, violet Lavender, clementine, honey Vanilla, basil, passion fruit (a riff on Montreal resto Brunoise's celebrated vanilla panna cotta with basil syrup and passion fruit pulp; don't know how the basil would take to cooking, though) Three types of vanilla (e.g. Madagascar, Mexican and Tahitian) edit: Eau de vie: mirabelle, prunelle, kirsch Three types of honey: lavender, thyme, chestnut persimmon, walnut, sweet spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, clove)

As I mentioned in the Dispatches thread, the new pomme épicée sherbet is a winner. I'm also much taken with the almond milk and nougat ice creams these days. And let's not forget the cassis sherbet, which you were the first to rave about (one of the owners insisted I try it with the vanilla and even added a half-scoop of the white stuff free of charge; he was right). Blood orange sherbet is probably my absolute favourite; I'm already looking forward to March. The only two flavours that don't do much for me are the green tea ice cream (just too intense, though it probably would be fine in the right context) and the dulce de leche ice cream (OK but bland; or maybe it's that it's without relief and should be done as a swirl, like Haagen Dazs's). And much as I like their plain cream ice cream, it'd be that much better if they made it with crème fraîche. BTW, the new branch is just behind the Atwater Market, next to the Lachine Canal but definitely not in Lachine. Expect it will be closing for the winter soon. This thread needs some pics!

You're absolutely right. I must have read the 10$ as 10%. I think it's also the first time the promos for the outlet network and saq.com have been different. Anyway, $10 is not nearly as interesting a promo as 10%. Thanks for setting us straight.

The cranberry stuffing would incline me toward a guinea hen, which will also give you plenty of meat for toi + 1. The hens take well to roasting, though you should probably consider having the butcher bard it (or buy some fat and bard it yourself). The guinea fowl at Les Vollailes et Gibiers du Marché are the best I've found in the city, though they often sell out by the weekend (in other words, get on the phone to them asap 271-4141). Le Boucher du Marché would be a convenient second source; ditto Capitol. Pheasant would be another possibility, though they don't take as well to stuffing and barding is mandatory if you oven roast them. Vad är det? Something of your own invention? Or just another name for good ole lingonberry preserves?

Can you provide more in the way of detail? E.g. how many servings; how much work are you willing to put into it; do you insist on roasting; how well equipped is the kitchen you'll be cooking in; are there time contraints; what else will you be serving; what will you be drinking; when should I show up? You know, that kind of stuff.

Havre aux Glaces has a delcious new flavour: pomme épicée sherbet. Light, appley, prefectly spiced (more than just cinnamon) and not too sweet — a great way to end a fall dinner.

Yet another sale in progress at the SAQ: until Monday, October 10, save 10% on purchases of six or more bottles of wine or spirits with a total price of $100 or more. "This offer applies exclusively to bottles of wine and/or spirits of a value of $10 or more each, after all other discounts. Coolers, beer, products in 3 or 4 L formats and gift certificate products are not included in this promotion." Also, the SAQ has announced that it's cancelling the Sélections mondiales des vins competition in order to focus its energies on its sales network.

A last-minute improvisation has since become a favourite fall dessert: Core some cortlands (preferably leaving the bottom intact) and remove the peel from the top third. Stuff with a mixture of chopped walnuts, golden raisins, light brown sugar and, if you've got any, stale pound cake crumbs. Place in a baking dish. Drizzle with melted butter. Bake. Serve warm topped with zabaglione made with marc de gewurztraminer. I also like to stuff apples with a mixture of almonds, walnuts and dried cranberries. Or walnuts and maple sugar (drizzle with a little maple syrup or baste them as they bake to glaze the surface). Was once served an incredible appetizer of a baked green apple stuffed with foie gras and served with cranberry jus.

I knew Schwarz's did ducks for the winter solstice holidays but wasn't aware they did turkeys for Thanksgiving. While I've never tried one, I believe they don't require further cooking (don't quote me on that tho'). The ducks, at least, have to be ordered in advance, or so I've been told.

Kinda late in the game but try calling Boucherie Les Fermes Saint-Vincent, which sells only organically raised meat. Atwater Market: 514 937-4269 Jean-Talon Market: 514 271-0209 I also saw a turkey at Exofruits, the upscale green grocer on CDN, last night. While I didn't look closely, I believe it was the same brand as the organically raised free-range chickens they sometimes stock. If St-Vincent doesn't pan out, you could give them a call: Exofruits 5192 Côte-des-Neiges (514) 738-1384 edit: Vincent not Vincet...

There are potentially three problems with subbing white vermouth: its higher alcohol content (usually 15% as opposed to, say, 8-13%), its added flavours and its sweetness. In small quantities — for example, the amount you'd use to deglaze a skillet in which you seared a steak — none of these really enter into play; the alcohol burns off, the flavours are overwhelmed by the other flavours and there's too little sugar involved to spoil the dish. In such situations, white vermouth makes a fine substitute. Where you should tread with caution is when using larger quantities, especially when cooking delicately flavoured ingredients. I probably wouldn't reach for the Noilly Prat when making rabbit stewed in white wine (2½ cups) or when boiling down a cup's worth of wine to a syrupy couple of tablespoons to sauce a fish (unless I was looking for the flavours and sweetness it would provide, of course). Like BeJam, I freeze leftover wine. Unlike his, mine freezes solid. The freezing really doesn't damage the wine (it remains drinkable) although some reds will throw a sediment upon thawing.

Marché Latina

Though I've never tried it on anything but fish, I often make a simple sauce (actually, a warm vinaigrette) as follows: - in a saucepan, combine freshly squeezed lemon juice and salt and white pepper - stir until the salt has dissolved - add an equal quantity of extra virgin olive oil along with capers and/or green olives and some chopped fresh herbs (dill's a favourite but fennel fronds, marjoram, rosemary, thyme and tarragon also work), alone or in combination - heat until warm - spoon over the cooked fish. Of course, it's not emulsified. Does that matter?

"Fortified wine" is too vague: while all Port is fortified wine, not all fortified wine is Port or even Port-style wine (Sherry and Vermouth, for example, are fortified). For a generic, you could go with Port-style wine. If I were you, though, I'd specify the brand name of the wine you use, and if that happens to be a California Port, so be it. Your customers will recognize, understand and probably be attracted to the concept; there will be no possiblity of confusion; and, as a result of the above-mentioned agreement between the US and the EU, you'll have the law on your side.

The SAQ has just received a slew of 2003s from Dönnhoff. Does anyone here know how these normally excellent wines fared in this problematic vintage? Are there any must-buys in the following list? Comments and/or tasting notes on any of the wines are welcome, the sooner the better, as these will probably fly off the shelves. Unless otherwise indicated, the bottles are 750 ml. Prices are in Canadian dollars (C$1 = US$0.85 these days) and include Quebec's 15% sales tax. Thanks! - Riesling Qba $21.20 - Oberhäuser Leistenberg riesling kabinett $27.15 - Oberhäuser Leistenberg riesling auslese Qmp $30.50 - Norheimer Dellchen riesling auslese Qmp $32.25 - Norheimer Kirschheck riesling spätlese Qmp 34.25 - Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg riesling spätlese Qmp $38 - Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube riesling spätlese $42.75 - Oberhäuser Brücke riesling spätlese Qmp $45.75 - Niederhäuser Hermanns Höhle riesling spätlese $51 - Oberhäuser Brücke riesling auslese $46 (375 ml) - Niederhäuser Hermanns Höhle riesling auslese $49 (375 ml)

Can only echo the advice others have given. The chiles will make big wines taste alcoholic and tannic and, in combination with the strong spice flavours, will overwhelm subtle wines. If you insist on a red, do as Katie suggests: choose a low-alcohol, not very tannic wine, nothing very old or fancy, and get the chef to tone down the heat. Another thing to bear in mind: red wines go with red meat, yes, but in Indian cooking meat is usually cooked until well done, i.e. no longer red. In France, white wine is sometimes recommended as a pairing for well-done red meat, and you shouldn't exclude that possibility here. Or compromise on a vibrant pink: last year, Bonny Doon's 2003 Vin Gris de Cigare — bursting with fruit and a bit sweeter than usual — proved a pretty good match with a rich and spicy lamb shank that had earlier stonewalled a sparkling shiraz. In the end, though, ale rules.

You're right, as one might deduce from the wine's name in nearly every language except English (including Portuguese): Porto. The year of the first recorded occurence in English is 1691. I agree there are wines that work better with chocolate desserts than Port does. Banyuls, Maury and, especially if the chocolate is combined with orange, certain sweet muscat wines (late harvest St-Jean-de Minervois or even Bonny Doon's vin de glacier), for example. Among true Ports, a Tawny is often best. But for flavouring chocolate bonbons — the purpose Trishiad originally inquired about — local "Port" would be fine.

There are quite a few on the Web. An adaptation of Joël Robuchon's should soon be in your PM inbox. (Anyone else who might like it should feel free to PM me.)

Walnuts and raw milk Comté are the real ticket. Or poulet au vin jaune et aux morilles, of course.

Mr. Rogov's admonitions notwithstanding, the use of the names of European appellations on US wines was recently legitimized for existing brands. From "U.S., EU Settle Wine Name Dispute" in the September 15, 2005, issue of the Los Angeles Times (registration required): So, like the idea or not (and on the whole I don't), California Champagne and Port will be with us for some time to come.

One of my clients who recently dined at La Table Tourigny for the first time reports that it is no longer a BYOB. She said they were so taken aback on learning they wouldn't be able to open a special bottle they'd brought, they didn't even look at the wine list but gave the waiter a price and had him choose for them. When Chef Tourigny visited the table at the end of the meal, he reportedly admitted that many longtime customers were unhappy with the change, so there may be hope he'll reconsider. For the time being, though, it's bring your own bankroll... Also, the exterior of the building is being renovated. My client and her husband were blown away by the quality of the cooking. At least that hasn't changed. The sauces were so good, she said, they went through three baskets of bread and briefly considered licking their plates.

Your pork loin sounds like it should work, tammylc. In any case, finding out whether or not it does is part of the fun, right? I'd echo a couple of the good reccos you've already got. Several people have suggested tapenade. I'd narrow it down to one with a proven affinity for shiraz: pesto rosso, a coarse purée of sun-dried tomatoes, black olives, fresh thyme and rosemary, garlic, dried chiles and olive oil (PM me if you'd like the recipe). Spread thinly on squares of toasted country bread. Peking duck would have been one of my suggestions, too. If you're pressed for time, you could opt for Chinese barbecued duck, which is available at many Asian stores. Carpaccio's a good bet, as is anything gamey (terrines, smoked duck breast, etc.). Some pizzas will make a pretty good match. My favourite pizza joint has a merguez pie that's tailor-made for big, juicy wines. For your purposes, you could follow the lead of a local Lebanese bakery, which makes pizzas on thin pitas: a smear of tomato sauce, a tangle of sweated onions, some crumbled sautéed merguez or kofta kebab and a sprinkle of cheese in the centre. Bake until crisp and cut into quarters, sixths or eighths.

No confusion whatsoever. Most dictionary definitions don't exclude fortified wines (e.g. "a usually sweet wine typically served with dessert or afterward" -Merriam-Webster's). And in popular and even scholarly usage the term often refers to both fortified and non-fortified sweet wines: - "These are sweet wines that are served with (or instead of) dessert. Examples include fortified wines like port and sherry, and late harvest wines, which are made from grapes that have shriveled a bit, concentrating their sweetness." (Cook's Thesaurus) - "Dessert wines are those wines which are typically served with dessert, although they are also drunk on their own, i.e. not accompanying food. They are often sweet wines such as ice wine, Sauternes, Tokaji Aszú, beerenauslese, trockenbeerenauslese and Commandaria or fortified wines such as sherry and port." (Wikipedia) - "A wine, usually sweet, sometimes fortified, sometimes sparkling, that is consumed as or with dessert after a meal." (Fogwell's Guides) - "Any of a wide variety of sweet wines-sometimes fortified with Brandy, all of which are compatible with dessert." (foodmonster.com) - Look up dessert wines in the Oxford Companion to Wine (1st ed.) and you'll be referred to the entries for sweet wines and fortified wines. - As a web search will quickly show, many retailers use the term as a convenient generic for fortified and non-fortified sweet wines. When someone asks for a dessert wine to go with their chocolate soufflé, they probably aren't asking only for a non-fortified wine suggestion and will be perfectly happy if you recommend a Port or Banyuls instead of a sweet muscat or late-harvest whatever. Vin doux naturel (Maury, Banyuls, etc.) and Port, especially Tawny Port, are standard reccos for chocolate desserts. Sweet Pedro Ximenez-based Sherry-type wines (e.g. Montilla-Moriles) ars often served with and even on ice cream. No less an authority that Hugh Johnson suggests "fortified wine (e.g. Banyuls)" as a match for ice cream. Etc. Admittedly it's a question of personal preference, but I beg to differ. Many people consider sweet wines to be woefully inappropriate as aperitifs, finding them strange in the context and feeling they have the undesired effect of cutting the appetite. When pairing a sweet wine with foie gras, care must be taken to avoid the cloying, rich-on-rich effect that very sweet and/or low acid wines will engender. These days, I much prefer dry reds (e.g. Médoc) or whites (e.g. rich Burgundy, Champagne) or barely off-dry whites like certain late-harvest Alsatians, Condrieu doux and "sec-tendre" style Loire chenins. edit: spelling

Vibrant red with deep berry aromas is a good description, as far as it goes. The problem is that it could apply to any number of wines. Based on D'Amico Cucina's current wine list, I'd guess you drank a Recioto della Valpolicella. But two years is a long time and who knows what they had on their list back then. Your best bet is to dig up that menu.

Port is the best known red dessert wine but there are plenty of others: Banuyls, Riversaltes and Maury from France; Licor de Tannat from Uruguay; Mavrodaphne from Greece; and Ridge's Zinfandel Essence from California. In Italy, some Recioto-di-Valpolicella are quite sweet; Tuscans make semi-sweet wine from aleatico (Antinori's is quite successful); and in the Alto Adige, Alois Lageder makes a trippy Moscato Rosa. And so on. Not to mention all the imitation "ports" made around the globe.