Wolfert

I have quite a few in Italian. Our Marlena Spieler wrote Islands in the Sun which has a large collection of recipes fromSardinia. And Clifford Wright's book has lots of recipes as well.

If ricotta is a main ingredient in cassata, I don't think you can point to North Africa for the main connection. There is an FAO report on the traditional foods of the near east. No 50, 1991. In it, you can read about the lack of fresh cheese in North Africa. .

Do any of you remember Adelle Davis from the 70's? In her book let's cook it right she suggested that you cook braising cuts of meat at the same temperature that you want it to be when it is done. For example, a good pork butt is perfect at 180 degrees internal temperature. She would have you cook it in the oven at that same temperature day and night. It really is a fabulous and easy way to slow cook certani meat and poultry.

I think you do need an agent. Aside from getting you at least 20% more than you could get on your own, they know all the players in the business.

I am sure you know that most cookbooks don't make back their advances. That said, there is no stopping those who want to engage in this sort of self punishment! On the other hand, the opportunity to develop a national name and good sales numbers in a short amount of time is something to really think about.Why not follow up with your own book with a big time publisher when you have that behind you. That is what "they" want. Keep us posted.

I was told the best way to get pollen from the wild fennel plant is to put a paper bag upside down over the plant, gather it at the opening, and invert it so you can shake and release all the pollen into the bag. Worth a try. Please let me know. If you have a lot, you can start that fund for your retirement. I understand the pollen costs a pretty penny. Check out zingermans.

Let's not forget Russ Parsons, Marlena Spieler, Clifford Wright, Dorie Greenspan, and Mimi Sheraton.

All his children have Berber names: Khalil; Ibtissen; Adel; Atidel; and Anis. I think I remember Haouari telling me his clan is from the Kabyle Mountains.

Great report. The only thing missing is a picture of Haouari. [ Chef Haouari with his second youngest son, Anis, in the garden on the island of Djerba.. I'll start posting some of Haouari's recipes in the next few days.

Yes, I think qedid is similar to kadid, the Tunisian dried meat preserve I think dersa is brains or some other kind of innard.

Just to clear the playing fields before you begin: Moussaka is Greek, Cypriot and Balkan. My version, described as Balkan in the book, is lesser known but it is traditional to parts of Eastern Macedonia. Mussaka is made in Jordan, Lebanon,Syria and Turkey. It does not include the bechamel or yogurt topping. Sounds like a lot of fun.

I haven't seen the Roman mosaics in Tunisia depicting the cooking of couscous in claypots, but have been told there are some. Has anyone seen these?

................and the Greeks, the Romans, the Hapsburgs, the Bourbons and the Normans all came to conquer or colonize Sicily. Just a gentle reminder that on the 'Greek' side of Sicily (Siracusa, Ragusa, Noto, and Catania)you find a very different cooking style from the Arab inspired cuisine of Palermo and Trapani. North African Berbers claim they 'invented' couscous. I think they developed the art of steaming fish, vegetables, lamb, chicken, rice, barley and semolina couscous in the Mediterranean.

Swiss Chard has a lovely name in North Africa: silk.

I have had luck with the following method: After removing the eggs from simmering water, cover, and let rest a few minutes before placing in cold water. One by one, drain, gently roll on a hard surface to crackle the shell, then peel, beginning at the larger side of the egg. Dip occasionally into cool water to facilitate peeling.

I think you are developing a very helpful style in your recipe writing. Don't let some editor take that away from you.

This is a cosmetic application to rub it inside and outside with an oil and ash mixture. You might want to wear plastic gloves because this is messy job. I estimate you need about 3/4 cup wood ash and 1/2 cup olive oil for a one time application. Keep the rest of the wood ash, you might want to repeat this step for a deeper "tanning." I think I did it more than twice. Please do post a photo. As far as I know you only need to soak the tagine once.

That is such a brilliant idea to join moist, velvety prunes with jewel-like jujubes! Did you buy them at an Asian market? Do you soak them first? Adam: You constantly amaze me with your flavor-packed ideas: spiced chicken with a crisp skin smothered in a delectable mix of prunes, broccoli and preserved lemons. Sounds so incredibly toothsome.

Tebikha in Tunisia is most often a bean and vegetable stew without meat and is cooked in a deep-sided pot. Marqa in Morocco is a vegetable or fruit stew with or without meat and cooked in a tagine. Marqa in Tunisia is a vegetable or fruit stew with meat and cooked in a tagine.

Tebikha has infinite variations in Tunisia, but it usually begins with some dried chickpeas or favas, soaked overnight in cold water with a pinch of baking soda. The following day, olive oil is heated in a clay pot along with chopped onions, tomato paste, and some harissa. When the tomato paste begins to shine, water is added along with the drained chickpeas or favas and cooked slowly until half done. Finally, a single seasonal vegetable group is added: cardoons and chard; tomatoes and pumpkin (qraa); and carrots and turnips are typical. Usually lemon juice is added at the end. Tebikha is traditionally eaten with flat griddle bread in rural Tunisia. Moroccans don't use the word tebikha; they call it marqua.

There is a trick to avoid the film which works more times than not: run the saucepan under cold water, invert and shake off the excess, then add the milk and bring slowly to the scalding stage.

Unfortunately, most of the early cookbooks on Algerian cooking are just collections of recipes.. If you want good research material, check out the ethnic studies on foodways in Algeria done by CNRS (centre national de la rechereche scientifique). The only book that I know that has some detailed discussion written in the 1900's is Leon Isnard's L'Afrique Goumande ou l'encyclopedie culinaire de l'Algerie, de la Tunisie et du Maroc. The publisher was Fouque and based in Oran. My copy is almost completely in shreds, but if there is something you want me to look up, don't hesitate to ask.

I am so relieved. I keep my chamba pots as well as the unglazed Moroccan pots lightly rubbed with oil.

In Turkey, when they are crisp, fuzzy and green, they are delicious with a glass of anise flavored raki. If you find them too sour, you can soak them in salted water for a short time or if you don't, simply split the hull in half, discard the gelatinous liquid, pick up one of the halves and dip into into fine salt before popping in your mouth. In southeastern Turkey, they are used as a garnish in cold yogurt soup. By midsummer when the fruit mutates, the membrane turns into a hard shell, and the fluid inside turns into a moist, sweet teardrop-shaped fresh green almond---this is when I've seen Tunisians scatter them on salads and Moroccans use them in their chicken with turmeric and ginger kdra tagines. To open them up you will need to stick them in a 350 oven for a few minutes then run a knife along the slit. Some chefs soak them in salted water with a little milk to firm them up so they can be sauteed or sliced. Two years ago, I bought some from Big valley farms...www.bignut.com

Yes, telephone her at once. I never heard of that happening. Let us know what she says. If Nidia doesn't have a good reason, you might try the Santa Fe Cooking School. They use them all the time and have some pointers on their care. I know they don't want you to put the chamba in the dishwasher.