skchai

Episure - great work! If you can keep this up, it will IMHO be the most valuable among all the media digests available on eGullet, because it aggregates information about Indian cuisine from a wide range of outlets. What's, pray tell, is your secret for locating all these relevant stories?

This is a "broadening" of sort of an earlier query I had on my inability to find Japanese regional cuisine cookbooks, other than those about Okinawa. More generally, I am looking for books (in Japanese or English) that provide a sensitive and nuanced explanation of the cultural and geographical context behind particular Japanese dishes. While there are a huge range of cookbooks published in Japan, many of which focus on high-end gastronomic cuisine (particularly celebrity chef cookbooks), I've been surprised by the lack of books providing an introduction to the unique cuisines of the different regions, or to subcuisines such as temple cooking or the various schools of kaiseki. Ideally such cookbooks should provide information about the sociocultural context in which each cuisine came into being. Recently, I've come across a number of books put by the "Graph-sha" publishing house, that seemed to promise more that what I've typically come across so far. On is called Nihon Ryouri Shiki Moritsuki(?) that provides a good introduction to seasonal cuisines, as well as another called Kaori Yasai o Tsukatta Reshipi which discussed different herbs and how they might be used in Japanese cuisine. Even their introductory books on Okazu and Japanese Cooking provide a much more in-depth discussion of the cultural philosophy behind the recipes than most cookbooks. My encounter with these books was mostly serendipitous, they seem to occasionally appeal on markdown at the book corner of our local Shirokiya. However, even when I've been to Japan and searched through Shinjuku Kinokuniya and the like, I haven't been able to find anything closer to what I'm looking for. I know there must be more, but perhaps I haven't researched deeply enough. I'm aware of the encylopedia-like collections of articles about Japanese ingredients and the like that are availabe, but am not yet ready to pay the 10K+ yen that purchasing such books involves. And what is your opinion of Graph-sha? And can anyone here give me more advice on where else to look for books that discuss Japanese subcuisines (regional or otherwise) in a cultural-informed manner? Thanks!

Yes, two cans a day before bedtime does the trick. . .

Another SpamJam event I neglected to mention:

In Hawai`i, the most frequently planted variety is the Haden. Very elongated, frangrant, hardly stringy at all. Around this time of the year acquaintances with trees used to come around with shopping bags full of mangoes and leave them by their neighbors' doors. Not any more, the decline of civil society. . . Can't compare Haden to the Alphonso cause I've never had a chance to eat the latter (fresh at least). . . P.S. Hawai`i is part of the U.S., at least officially.

O.K., in that case, perhaps some of the better housewive's guides might be useful. The Jubu Saenghwal (Housewife's Life) magazine's comprehensive cookbook called Shikdan gwa Banchan 365 il is pretty good, though my copy is about 8 years old and the title might havfe changed in the interim. But it is one of the laconic kind that are often calling for "gajin yangnyeom" (appropriate seasonings). Woman Sense magazine also publishes a good comprehensive cookbook well. No gumbo-nacho recipes, unfortunately. More like "Pot au Few (sic) with Ginseng" and "Dongdong-ju Marinated Cod Leeks (?) and Soybean Sauce" (recipe titles in English) from Fushion+ (Design House, 1999).

Almost before we knew it, the day is upon us. Here's the schedule for Waikiki Spamjam 2004. Friday, April 23 , 12-1 pm. The world's largest spam musubi will be constructed at the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center. The goal is to make it 325 feet long, thus defeating a record set at the Kauai State Fair. Geevum! Friday, April 23, 6 pm. Spam Jam concert and comedy revue at All Star Hawaii, 2080 Kalakaua Blvd., free with can of Spam donation for the Hawai`i Food Bank. Saturday, April 24, 4-10 pm. Street festival on Kalakaua Ave. Star chefs, food booths, and free entertainment. Though I probably won't be able to witness (or eat) the giant musubi, I will try to make it to the stree festival and send back pictures for those unable to attend. . Here's a crucial piece of information for Spam tourists, from the Press Release: Unlike last year, the Hawai`i Foodbank, who receive all those donations, won't be creating a giant Wall of Spam on Restaurant Row. They've somehow opted for a Sea of Tuna instead of Wall of Spam - what gives? Perhaps this is because they already broke the record for largest Spam Wall in history last year. Instead, there will be a mini-wall of Spam in Waikiki, with wonderful prizes awarded to those who come closest to guessing the correct number of cans. . . Facetious comments welcome. . .

Wonder if KitWilliams could translate the houseguest's anti-Biba statements into something innocuous to be printed here. Interesting, because Biba has by far more national visibility than any other Sacramento restaurant (in large part because of Biba Caggiano's cookbooks). Also, it looks like the SacBee has listed her as the #1 restaurant four years in a row. Have never been there so no personal stake one way or the other, just curious. . .

Pineapple Room: dishwasher shuns labels, dreams of opening restaurant Emerick Akamine got Alan Wong job via Lanakila Rehabilitation Center QUICK BITES: L'Uraku unveils new tasting menu, by Wanda A. Adams Such a deal; all for $38 (or $52 with paired wines). Mr. Zip: The Higa brothers, founders of Zippy's, win a place in the hall of fame, by Betty Shimabukuro The Hawai`i Culinary Hall of Fame, that is. Induction will be at the "Taste of the Stars" benefit on April 30. Here's the Zippy's website. Homemade Crunch: Mix, roll, fry, glaze and bake to turn out your own arare, by Betty Shimabukuro Why would you want to do this? Because you can! Spam musubi for everyone! Spamjam. World's largest spam musubi - 325 feet - this Friday!

There's really been an explosion in the quantity of cookbooks being published in Korea over the past decade or so, so your wife will have a lot of choices. Comprehensive cookbooks still however tend to be housewife's guides, which may not expand your wife's horizon's that much! The foremost scholarly investigation of Korean cuisine, including discussion of historical antecedents (cultural gloss!) behind virtually every aspect of Korean food preparation and presentation remains Hanguk ui Jeontong Eumshik (Gyomunsa, 1990) by "national treasure" Hwang Hye Seong and her daughters Han Bok Nyeo and Han Bok Jin. Hwang has also published a number of more conventional pictoral cookery guides, which focus on the high end of home cooking. For investigation of regional cuisines, there are a number of choices. a slim volume called Gohyang Eumshik ui Mat gwa Meot (Munhwa Gajok Shinseo, 1990), which digs out some particular interesting and (to me, at least) obscure regional specialties. Interested in vegetarian food? I picked up well-organized guide to Korean temple cookery called Nun euro Meognun Jeol Eumshik (Uri Chulpansa, 2002), by Kim Eun Shik. He has also written a book about seasonal cuisine called Hanguk Sacheol Eumshik (Uri Chulpansa, 1997). Some recent trends seem to be usual suspects: fusion cooking, diet and low-cholesterol, etc. . . Probably a lot more stuff too in the two years since I was last in Seoul. . .

Looking forward to his review. . . Perhaps they use thalis for dinner and platters for lunch? BTW, I took a second look at the the platters and noticed that they're patterned to look like a strip of banana leaf!

In response to a conversation with Jamie, I've started a thread on the Hawai`i board: Hawaii agriculture and its route to the table This link is to help him find the thread and also so for any of you who would like to sneer / gape in wide wonder at kahuku shrimp, nalo greens, etc.

A don't know about favorite - but the strangest soda phenomenon had to be "maekkol" a roasted-barley flavored soda that briefly became the top-selling soft drink in Korea during the late 1980s and early 90s. It was produced by the Unification Church.

Just very briefly - the one very inexpensive place that I would recommend for those who want something different from the usual tourist track is the Manago Hotel in Captain Cook. Warning: it is small and basic accomodation. But it is the second-oldest continuously operated hotel in the entire state, has loads of atmosphere, and is still run by the same family that started it in 1917.

episure, are you making fun of my mother? :-) this is a sample recipe as written by her: "take some of ingredient 1, add to a little bit of ingredient 2, fry nicely for a while, and take off heat when done". the beauty of these instructions, however, is that by the time you figure them out the recipe has become entirely your own! but it isn't the kind of thing you'd want in a recipe book, no. mongo I am a strong advocate of both cultural gloss and "cutting onions nicely". O.K., maybe not, but I do want to point out that there are other ways of looking at things. . . I personally have an intense dislike for the contemporary cookbook format, which is based upon the "domestic science" paradigm pioneered by the Boston Cooking School in the early part of the 20th Century. The main goal of the movement was to eliminate variability in cooking by specifying recipes in completely precise and mechanical fashion. The result effectively separates the "dish" the "cook". For this reason, I find many Indian recipe (as well as Victorian era British cookbooks) very refreshing in their vagueness and brevity. They actually assume that the cook knows what she is doing and will take the recipe in the appropriate direction. All this reminds me of a common phrase found in the Korean cookbooks - which often call for the addition of "gajin yangnyeom" - meaning, more or less, "appropriate seasonings". This can be irritating or completely liberating, depending on the context. . . Thanks for the enlightenment about the Rushdie family - wow, they had an interesting childhood!

oh, but he is so dreeeamy. . .

Second the kudos for Sameen Rushdie's Indian Cookery. To those who might be put off - it is anything but as if Salman Rushdie had written a cookbook! Sameen takes you by the hand like the proverbial auntie and guides you step by step through Indo-Pakistani-Bangladeshi Cuisine, with a slight (but certainly not overwhelming) emphasis on Sindhi food. BTW, are you certain she is Salman's sister? The book bio says (and the text confirms) that she was raised in Karachi . . . I love reading Prasad, as intimidating as the it may be. Kalra is such an engaging prose stylist, and he puts forward an infectious enthusiasm for celebrating the potential for Indian restaurant cuisine to recognized as a world-class and for giving its chefs the recognition that they for so long had been denied. Indeed, the terseness of the prose was one thing that made his latest book Daawat slightly disappointing, despite the profusion of innovative recipes that actually seem to work. Finally, two cookbooks not yet mentioned that provide the kind of contextual gloss mentioned: Julie Sahni's Savoring India, part of the William-Sonoma coffee-table book series, and the pioneering 35 year-old book by Santha Rama Rau, Cuisine of India, part of the great Time-Life Foods of the World series.

Err, just noticed this thread . . . not sure where to start - no, not another open letter! And I won't get into anything about being hustled by trinket sellers on Granville Is. . . . Flat out, objectively speaking, Honolulu has by far the best and most diverse dining opportunities of any comparably-sized city in the world. It's hard to get into details without getting too off-topic, but check out the Hawai`i Forum. for a better idea Can't speak for "Kehei" (sic), though in general if you hang out at tourist sites you will get food for tourists. You do need to be willing to ignore the surface and explore a bit - but not really that far since our islands are small . . . Jamie, let me know if there's any thing or place I can help you locate while you're here, especially if you plan to be in Honolulu. mot juste, you're unfortunately right that we tend to attract many tourists without imagination. Please send us tourists with more imagination! Sorry you don't like the beach or the ocean, Keith! Perhaps you would enjoy living in Calgary. . . One thing that Vancouver and Honolulu have in common - Ezogiku. Read a great article about Tim Horton and his donuts in an edited volume recently . . . I'll have to look for it again. . .

Thanks for the reference and summary, Vikram! I will try to get hold of a copy of the book. As a social scientist, I should know better than to venture off into the scary world of classifying things!

Yes, it would. Do you have any idea where these foodstuffs originated? Both are available on Timor. Dodol is widely available even in parts of Indonesia that were not under Portuguese rule. Regarding bebinca, we had an earlier thread in the Spain/Portugal forum about its origins. The thread contains links to books, recipes, etc., and compares Goan and Timorese bebinca with Macanese bebinca de leite and Filipino bibingka. bebinca / bibingka, Any idea about its origin?

The only English-language Pakistani cookbooks I've been able to find in the U.S. are two volumes of the Dalda cookbooks, published by Lever Bros. Pakistan. They are fairly straightforward collections of recipes with photos. Can't comment on how the recipes might differ from those for similar dishes found in India or Bangladesh, but on the whole they make few concessions to contemporary dietary proclivities. A number of them call for huge amounts of Dalda vanaspati (of course) . . . The haleem recipe calls for 1 1/2 cups, plus another 2 cups for frying the onions! The recipes I've tried have actually turned out fairly well once I reduce the fat . . . The Dalda cookbooks can be purchased online at Desistore.com.

Slightly off-topic, but I've posted elsewhere a review of a very nice Tamil-Malay restaurant here in Honolulu, called India Cafe. It has on its menu dishes similar to the ones mentioned here - its nasi lemak with spicy eggplant poriyal is a great eating experience.

Many of ghee sweets mentioned are nowadays available made from vegetable shortening, if taste is not an object. Some of these, however, use vanaspati, which in some cases may contain traces of dairy. Vanaspati is to ghee as margarine is to butter. . .

In Hawaii's 2nd Spam Cookbook, Corum adds that Kaneshiro used to sell her spam musubi to the blind vendors, who would resell them at food stands inside of State govt buildings downtown. Indeed, it may have been the blind vendors who really popularized the musubi, since they were pretty ubiquitous in those days. However, the real boom in the musubi seems to have occured in the 1990s. There are about a dozen Spam musubi recipes in the second volume of Corum's book, as compared to only one in the first Hawaii's Spam Cookbook, which was published in 1987. This gives you an idea of the extent to which the musubi's popularity blossomed during the intervening period. Here are links to the Bess Press homepages for the cookbooks (eGulletized links to Amazon.com are above): Hawaii's Spam Cookbook Hawaii's 2nd Spam Cookbook

I think there are three main categories. Other than what's already been covered: Besan-based: In addition to Besan ki Laddu, Jalebis - made with water in batter, not curd, Mysore Pak. Rice+Jaggery based, as baque25 mentioned. Pongal is another example. Sweet "breads" - imartis, sweet idli and vadai. Halva and halva-like: gajar halva probably doesn't count as it traditionally contains khoya, but e.g. halva made from petha O.K, four main categories. Five?