cabrales

Below are excerpts from the current edition of Art Culinaire on Michael Anthony's background, for future reference in assessing the cuisine at Blue Hill: "he studied the fine arts and Japanese. Upon graduation, he moved to Japan to pursue his interest in the language. While in Tokyo, he worked in the kitchen of Shizuyu Shima . . . Her cuisine melded Japanese with Western culture. 'She taught me the basics of French cooking; she also showed me her very personal style of relaying that to Japanese food products and Japanese style.' . . . . [discussion of education, work in France] After making contact with Daniel Boulud, he moved to NY and remained in Boulud's kitchen for two years. In search of a kitchen closer to his Japanese experience, he pursued a job at March." The Japanese-related aspects of Anthony's background are interesting because, based on only one meal, my preliminary sense is that his cuisine does not come across as Japanese-related and appears more "classical" than the chef's apparently frequent utilization of Japanese products might suggest. (For newer members, there was considerable discussion at one point in time about the use of curry and other spices in French and other cuisines. The discussions manifested themselves in multiple threads.) Certain of Anthony's recipes in the same edition of Art Culinaire contain ingredients typically associated with Japanese cuisine: -- Smoked Salmon Belly with Avocado-Yogurt Puree and Pickled Watermelon: White soy sauce, mirin and "yuzo kosho to taste" (a "spicy, prepared chutney made with kosho pepper and yuzu citron fruit") are included in the glaze for the salmon belly. -- Poached Shrimp and Jicama Salad in a Lobster Saffron Broth: The jicama salad contains shiso leaves. The lobster broth contains "aleppo to taste" (a "slightly tart, ground spice made from dried red bell peppers and named for the twon in Syria where they are grown" -- not Japanese but unusual; also note use of jicama)

Charlie Trotter (Chicago) also toured restaurants significantly. The current edition of Art Culinaire describes this aspect of Trotter's background, among other things: "A poli-sci grad from the University of Wisconsin, he began his culinary quest in 1982, embarking on a four year pilgrimage across the United States and Europe and through volumes and volumes of culinary annals. He spent time in the kitchens of Norman Van Aken, Bradley Ogden and Gordon Sinclair, absorbing the perfues, textures and nuances of each restaurants . . . ."

Patria is interesting to me because the general "loudness" of the flavors in its cuisine would not ordinarily be to my liking. Yet, after repeated meals there over time, there are a number of dishes there that I like (together with others I do not). My dinner at the Patria bar area recently confirmed that the restaurant has some type of appeal to me that is difficult to rationalize. (As I have noted before, my standards for evaluating cuisine in NY are different than that for restaurants in France. Thus, an indication I like Patria to some extent cannot be meaningfully compared to a statement that I like the cuisine of Edouard Loubet, for example). I arrived at around 10 pm. The bar area offers access to all the food available to restaurant diners, and, unlike at certain restaurants, is centrally located within the restaurant. In addition to the "regular" menu, there are $10 items available only at the bar, including the skewer-based dish described below. Another $10 bar item that I did not order consisted of three types of empanaditas (smaller versions of a regular menu item): (1) smoked chicken stewed with panica peppers and a crisp green plantain crust, (2) jamon y queso -- manchego cheese and serrano ham with a black pepper crust, and (3) a la criolla -- with roast suckling pig with crisp yuca and a sofrito crust. Below were the items I took in: Tasting of Ceviche, at $18/person (choice of 3 among 4 specified; I omitted the shrimp ceviche, with orange, carrot, fennel, lime and habanero) Ceviche Tiradito: Peruvian style with corvina, lime, ricotto, onions and cilantro with roasted camato and corn nuts Chifta Ceviche: Tuna with Thai coconut, lemongrass, ginger and basil Salmon Soy Ceviche: Thinly sliced salmon with citrus and soy over avocado with cucumber, red onion, cilantro and crisp salmon skin Plato de Pinchos, at $10 for all three items (bar menu) Chicken and chorizo with saffron aji, amarillo sauce Shrimp with pickled jalpeno tomato salsa Beef tenderloin with chipotle chimchurri Ice cream -- Mole; Blue corn ($7 for 2 scoops; tempted by almond granita alternative) Glass of Louis Roederer champagne ($15) Spanish Sherry (under $10) The kitchen waived the two-person-minimum requirement for the ordering of the ceviche sampler. The sampler arrived as a large platter with three glass bowls on crushed ice. In the middle of the bowls was placed a martini glass with the corn nuts and popcorn-like item (not particularly useful to the sampling of the ceviches). The Tiradito was the same as the one offered by the restaurant at its stall on Restaurant Day last week. (It is a good sign that the restaurant was as generous on Restaurant Day than it is to regular diners.) The bass was fresh and clear, and the thin citrus and herbed thin liquid with the ingredients described in the name of the dish was powerful, without overwhelming the taste of the fish. I liked this ceviche the best among those sampled. The tuna was nice too, with the coconut base for the saucing (i.e., the thin liquid) sufficiently moderated and the taste of lemongrass being more pleasant than that I normally associate with lemongrass. There was for some reason a nice note of acidity in the saucing. The small shards of coconut meat on top of the tuna ceviche were appropriate. The salmon was not to my liking. The soy taste was too stark, and the utilization of slices rendered the presentation too similar to sashimi. The red onion strands were a helpful aspect of the dish, though. While I had originally intended to eat more lightly by stopping after the ceviche sampler, I could not resist sampling the three skewered items in the Plato de Pinchos. This was a very good value at $10, as each of the three skewers was the size of an appetizer dish in a typical NY tasting menu. The chicken and chorizo skewer was the best among the three -- the chorizo was cooked quite a bit (appropriately) and had bacon connotations as a result of the cooking process. It lent interest to the appropriately-prepared chicken pieces on the skewer. The saffron-based saucing was tasty with this dish. The second item on the Plato de Pinchos was a single large grilled prawn. The material inside the head was appropriate-tasting, but the flesh of the prawn was overcooked. Finally, the beef tenderloin included was good-to-very-good (although a bit cooked for my particular tastes; the barman did not ask how I wanted the beef cooked). Like other beef dishes at Patria, this specimen had a wonderful smoked taste and was reported to have been imported from Argentina. The saucing was a dark, jus reduction -- with wonderful thinly sliced small potato discs and some wild mushrooms. The beef dishes at Patria tend to be among the best offerings at the restaurant (together with the ceviches). The ice cream was average. Mole flavor was interesting, and its spiciness went well with the Spanish sherry ordered. Its texture was creamy, but I did not particularly like its taste. The blue corn ice cream (a pale blue color) had a texture that resembled sorbet more than ice cream, and suffered as a result of that. The taste was rather subtle (in a neutral way). Overall, a good meal at a restaurant to which I will return. On my next visit, it will be the beef entree with a nice red.

dargin -- When you have a chance, could you consider describing what the Amigo menu is generally like?

I saw suckling pig on the Patria menu, and have seen it (but not sampled it) there before. The dish was "Suckling pig loin chops with braised leg meat sauteed with white beans and calamari, slices of cured and smoked belly and topped with a chicarron (?) salad", for $26. This is available both in the main restaurant and at the bar. Also, specific to the bar was a $10 item that I did not order, consisting of three types of empanaditas (smaller versions of a regular menu item): (1) smoked chicken stewed with panica peppers and a crisp green plantain crust, (2) jamon y queso -- manchego cheese and serrano ham with a black pepper crust, and (3) a la criolla -- with roast suckling pig with crisp yuca and a sofrito crust. I did not sample this dish.

I'd appreciate members' input on where the tea-flavored Pockys described by Rachel can be purchased in central areas within NYC.

Basildog --What are your expectations regarding whether a webcam might alter your comfort level or other behavior in the kitchen? Have you considered whether the webcam would be moveable (e.g., to allow food to be depicted) and where you would primarily have it lodged? What are David's views on it?

A caped chef -- Are the lectures open to members of the public, and is there a charge for attendance?

Patrice -- Thanks for the update. Was there an indication as to (1) when the restaurant will open, or (2) the style of the menu or examples of dishes?

Steve Klc -- The wine list did not indicate the Inniskillin was the Gold label version you described. However, as noted, I did not sample the wine and cannot say for sure. I have seen Inniskillin offered at more than one restaurant in NY. I believe it was offered at Django, although my recollection of different restaurants' wine lists becomes blurred at times.

I had a very light lunch at Morrell Wine Bar recently. Due to my having only taken in one dish (an appetizer at that) and having ordered a tartare item, it would not be fair to evaluate the quality of the food at the facility. Note the Muscovy Duck & Porcini Mushroom Hash and Poached Quail Egg entree appeared worthy of investigation. However, I hope to eat more lightly for a week or two. (That also explains my increased visits to Japanese restaurants, given that sashimi is not necessarily among my favorite foods.) Tartar Times Three -- Yellowfin tuna, Diver Scallops, Atlantic Salmon ($16) Glass of Blanc de Lynch Bages 2000 ($12; the wine list described 1999) Three small heaps of tartar encircled a larger mound of julienne of raw radish. Shredded shiso leaves were on top of the radish, and were a bit too aromatic for the dish. However, the dish overall was appropriate (for a tartar). The diced scallops were the best part of the dish -- they had a sort of glaze on them, and were accompanied by a jus consisting of a little bit of white truffle oil and rice wine vinegar. A sprinkle of small black sesame grains provided visual contrast to the white coloration of the diced scallops. The salmon was fatty, and nicely left alone with just olive oil elements. The confit or pickled diced cantelope melon (somewhat spicy) incuded on the plate was fine with the salmon. The tuna was so-so; it tasted relatively bland initially, but there was a chilli-type aftertaste discernible. Surprisingly, the wine list by the glass was disappointing with respect to French whites and French reds. The American offerings appeared to have been better represented. Note the executive chef at the Morrell Wine Bar is Michael Haimowitz. Dessert wines offered by the glass (not taken) included (1) Vidal 1998, Inniskillin (Canadian ice wine), which was significantly overpriced at $25/glass (for that price, one can purchase a 2000 bottle in Canada), and (2) Banyuls, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine du Mas Blanc, Parce 1985 at $20/glass (with a non-Vieilles Vignes version of the 1991 at $12).

The Amex Platinum newsletter of June 2002 reports on a "After Dark with Colin Cowie" event at Union Pacific on October 7, 2002. The cost is $395/person, with the description below: "Join Colin Cowie, lifestyle guru to the stars, and celebrity chef Rocco DiSpirito at New York hot spot Union Pacific for a private evening of style. Host of Women's Entertainment Network's Everyday Elegance, Cowie will dazzle you with his secrets on creating magical and memorable parties and meals from his upcoming book, Dinner After Dark. Chef DiSpirito will prepare an elegant feast, complimented [wrong spelling] by wines from Champagne Veuve Cliquot." The price appears very high relative to a normal dinner, and the presence of Cowie and other guests who might be interested in what he has to say would appear to be a significant distraction. Sounds like a terrible deal for members. However, if members are interested, there are 4 reservations available to each cardholder.

The Amex Platinum May 2002 newsletter describes a $800/person wine weekend. There is a private dinner offered at the home of William Foley of Foley Winery, followed by a reception on Saturday with Marilyn Horne (opera) and involving the cuisine of Wine Cask restaurant and Margerum Wine Company. Then, there is a "grand tasting" and charity wine auction. I am uncertain whether reservations remain. I am also unfamiliar with the wine makers featured.

Margaret -- I asked Amex Platinum Concierge to list all Paris restaurants that are either one or three-starred (the latter included for my information) and that are open on either Christmas Day and/or New Year's Day (the latter for my information). The list provided by such service may be poor in its coverage of one stars, although that may be difficult to verify without contacting applicable restaurants ourselves. Below is the relevant part of the e-mail I received in response to my request. RESTAURANT NAME: Ledoyen ADDRESS: 1 av. Dutuit, on the Carré des Champs-Élysées, Paris, France PHONE: 01-53-05-10-01 CUISINE: French AVERAGE PRICE PER CUSTOMER: $40.00 DESCRIPTION: This elegant restaurant tucked away in the quiet gardens flanking the Champs-Élysées is a study in the grandiose style of Napoléon III, with gilded ceilings and walls, plush armchairs, and tables with candelabra (head for the historic rooms upstairs; avoid downstairs). Unfortunately, this aging beauty needs a face-lift, at least from the looks of the upholstery and even some rather lackluster dishes served up by the kitchen. Still, whether you want to eat light or hearty, young chef Christian Le Squer's elegant, beautifully realized menu is usually a treat. The turbot with truffled mashed potatoes is excellent, and don't skip the first-rate cheese trolley. Reservations essential. Closed weekends. RESTAURANT NAME: Taillevent ADDRESS: 15, rue Lamennais (George V), Paris, FR, PHONE: 01 44 9 5 15 01 CUISINE: French AVERAGE PRICE PER CUSTOMER: $114 DESCRIPTION: Taillevent is located near the Etoile and has once again been ranked #1 for Food, Service and Popularity. Michel del Burgo, formerly with Le Bristol, graces this 3 star Michelin temple of gastronomy. He picks up expertly where Philippe Legendre left off, turning out haute cuisine that sparkles when combined with their superb wine list and extravagant service. This is an absolute must. RESTAURANT NAME: L'Arpege ADDRESS: 84 rue de Varenne Paris PHONE: 33 1 45 51 47 33 CUISINE: French AVERAGE PRICE PER CUSTOMER: $125 DESCRIPTION: Alain Passard has created yet another sublime French masterpiece with his innovatively superb cuisine, which is ranked #2 for Food. It is the epitome of discreet elegance with Passard being called the "best chef of his generation. It may live in the shadow of Taillevent as the #2 restaurant but it certainly outshines the competition. RESTAURANT NAME: Guy Savoy ADDRESS: 18 Rue Tryon PHONE: 33 1 43 804 061 CUISINE: French AVERAGE PRICE PER CUSTOMER: $70 DESCRIPTION: Guy Savoy has created a festival by combining invention, passion and intelligence at this haute cuisine flagship. Simplicity ranks high where presentation counts and the service is efficient and enjoyable. The décor is like that of a gentlemen's club with wood, leather and stone enhancing the experience and the atmosphere. Jackets and ties required for gentlemen. RESTAURANT NAME: L'Ambroisie ADDRESS: 9 Place des Vosges Paris PHONE: 33 1 42 78 51 45 CUISINE: French AVERAGE PRICE PER CUSTOMER: $110 DESCRIPTION: Inspirational, ambrosial, perfection are just a few of the words that come to mind when tasting Bernard Pacaud's French cuisine. The dining rooms are elegant with décor by François-Joseph Graf. High ratings and the challenge of getting reservations speak for themselves. RESTAURANT: Pierre Gagnaire ADDRESS: 6, rue Balzac (George V), Paris, FR, 75008 PHONE: 01 58 36 12 50 CUISINE: New French AVERAGE COST PER CUSTOMER: $105 DESCRIPTION: Amateurs and Foodies unite to sing their praises for Pierre Gagnaire and his magnificent haute cuisine. The cuisine is a mind blowing experience with new tastes and new horizons. The service is attentive, the sommelier an expert and the food a celebration. All in all, it is an overwhelming experience. RESTAURANT NAME: Drouant ADDRESS: 8, rue Gaillon (Opéra/Quatre-Septembre) PHONE: 33 1 42 65 15 16 CUISINE: French AVERAGE COST PER CUSTOMER: $80 DESCRIPTION: The fact that the Drouant is the location where the Goncourt jury decides the annual winner of France's top literary prize demonstrates their ability to transform at any need you may have. Drouant's food is classically compiled with first-rate cuisine. The dining room is splendid with an art deco feel. It's great for business meals or for a quiet dinner for two. RESTAURANT NAME: Le Celadon ADDRESS: 15, rue Daunou (Auber/Opéra) Paris, FR, 75002 PHONE: 33-1 47 03 40 42 CUISINE: New French AVERAGE PRICE PER CUSTOMER: $61 DESCRIPTION: Le Celadon is the 1 star Michelin rated dining room at the Hotel Westminster. The room is excellent for either a business lunch or a romantic dinner. The service is charming. The setting is plush. They have a prix fixe lunch. All in all, it's definitely worth it, whatever you are looking for. Note the outdated Zagat information included in certain of the restaurant descriptions.

I'd appreciate members' input on the NY champagne bars Flute (please specify branch visited) and Bubbles. For example, how diverse were the selections available by the glass? Were there snacks or other non-beverage items available for purchase?

Wilfrid -- There may be a need to book (even if 15 minutes in advance) during lunch, from my limited observations. Sushi Yasuda has a sashimi option (at the back of the menu) that enables a diner to receive 3 types of fish, etc. for less than $20. I did order that as a "base" for my subsequent tastings. Note the range of potential selections in the sashimi option was (expectedly) limited relative to the a la carte. However, yesterday evening, the selection included scallops, squid (ordered), orange clam (ordered) and various other decent items. It is easy to spend more at Yasuda because the uni is $4.50 a pop and there were other appealing things. The Chilean sea bass dish described for an earlier meal is worth sampling.

I sampled herring roe at Sushi Yasuda recently. The yellowish very small beads were clumped together and have a much more integrated and dense texture than certain other roe. They were presented in small-ish clumped slices, which had a thin layer of seaweed embedded in them. Not particularly tasty, but worth a sample if a diner (like me) has never had them before. Other items available recently included: conch (at $3.50 for one order; nicely sweet and less "hard" in texture than abalone; fresh salmon roe (there is a Japanese name beginning with the letter "S") marinated in soya and some type of Japanese wine (better had as sushi); sea trout (average); and sumi squid (tasted like, and may have been ?, cuttlefish; not particularly interesting). I had more of the uni -- creamier than at most Japanese restaurants in NY. By the way, some of the unis had a thin line of purplish color running on one side of them. I have noticed this phenomenon before. I wonder what accounts for that feature.

UBON is also the name of a NOBU-affiliated restaurant at Canary Wharf in London (and possibly other places?). Many of the same food items are served, including the black cod with miso. (UBON is very close -- 2 minutes' walk -- to the Four Seasons Canary Wharf, in case members visit London on travel and have a choice as to hotels. However, the Four Seasons facility there is sub-par relative to others in the chain.) The utilization of foie gras with the black cod miso is interesting. One of the appealing aspects about the black cod miso is the smoothness (not in a greasy manner, but with a sense of lusciousness) of the flesh of the cod. Depending on how large the piece of foie gras was and how the inside of it ended up, one could see even greater "softness" in the foie. I wonder what effects the foie had on the sweetness of the saucing/marinade for the cod that is also central to the dish.

Jinmyo -- I asked myself whether I would have attempted to take in the newborn mice. It would have been very challenging, but I would attempt.

Liza -- Thanks for sharing your birthday meal. On the black cod with miso, I cannot recollect whether it is typically topped with foie gras. Do other members have input on this aspect of the dish?

A Taiwanese meal involving live newborn mice is described in the Spring 2002 edition of Gastronomica. In Andrew Chase's review of two books on unusual food, he notes one of his own expriences: "I eat everything; I have a passionate curiosity to try any food that is new to me. Or so I thought. Sugar-cane fields are notorious breeding grounds for rates and snakes. Once , when I was helping a friend in Taitung (Taidong) County in southeastern Taiwan with his sugar-cane harvest, we came upon a rat nest. My companion collected the tiny *newborn* rats, bald and pink. He said they were for the Hakka [a linguistic/cultural subgroup] men in the village. . . . That evening we brought the rats to the Hakka gentlemen, who gratefully received them and broke out a bottle of distilled rice wine. Everybody was eager for me to try the delicacy. . . . To my surprise, the rats were served as is, squeaking and squirming on the plate, to be dunked in a little soy sauce with chopped chilies. The suckling rat wriggled between my chopsticks. It got as far as my mouth but no father: I couldn't eat it. . . ."

I'd appreciate members' input on the two-starred restaurant Le Cerf of Chef Michael Husser. The restaurant is located within an acceptable drive of Strasbourg. Also, what are the rooms of the Hostellerie associated with the restaurant like?

In May, Patricia Wells provided a review of Guy Savoy. Included in the same review was discussion of Gagnaire. http://www.patriciawells.com/reviews/iht/2002/1005.htm

Linked below is an older thread on Bordeaux, including some discussion on La Tupina: http://forums.egullet.org/ikonboa....;t=4970

The patissier at Ilo is Patrick Coston, who is among the 10 Best Pastry Chefs in America 2002 per Pastry Art and Design (July 2002 edition). Coston notes: "I'm self-taught. . . . I have an open mind about learning. I read a lot and I have an extensive library. . . . I think my flavors are very clean and sharp and I try to keep it simple. No more than thhree flavors on a plate. . . . And I'm trying to get the money together for my own pastry shop . . . ." Coxton's Meyer Lemon dessert ws good. The other awarded patissiers are: Patrice Caillot of Lespinasse; Remy Funfrock [no kidding], Cafe Boulud; Vicki Wells, Mesa Grill & Bolo; Andrew Shotts, The Chocolate Loft (apparently a pastry school?), NYC; Michael Laiskonis, Tribute, Detroit; Keegan Gerhard, Four Seasons, Chicago; Jean-Philippe Maury, Bellagio Hotel, Vegas; Jean-Claude Canestrier, Paris Hotel, Vegas; Robert Ellinger, Baked to Perfection, Port Washington, NY.