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cabrales

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  1. I am considerably more saddened at Bid's transformation/closure after having taken in my first and only meal from Chef Matt Seeber there. Chef Seeber's cuisine was very good, and I would hope to sample more of his cuisine even though it would have to be elsewhere. It was a special evening that we were fortunate enough to have been a part of. Our dining were literally the last table served at Bid in its then current form. Chef Seeber, through his cuisine and his visits to our table, imbued the evening with much generosity of spirit. In my mind, there will always be a difficult-to-articulate set of feelings associated with the meal. Fulfillment, from the food; sadness and a sense of the ironies of the world; insight into the professionalism and pride of those associated with a restaurant even through its last evening, from many parts of the dining room (including sommelier) and kitchen teams; a shared sense of conceptual closure, with respect to what the teams must have been feeling. As ahr noted, there were bittersweet notes. However, the cuisine was articulate and unequivocally tasty. (1) Amuse of brandade -- This was average, but, happily, the only item of the meal that was so. I liked the aftertaste of tomato puree (was I imagining it?) in the little crostini-like bread toasts accompanying the cod. The dominant flavor in the bread toasts was, appropriately, garlic. I took it in with the remnants of the Veuve Cliquot I had been having at the bar. (2) cabrales: Pickled sardines. Arugula salad, roasted red pepper and aged balsamic vinegar. ahr: Yellowfin tuna tartare. Sea urchin vinaigrette, bottarga and horseradish confit. In this dish, the bitterness of the arugula gave context to the acidity from the pickling effects on the fish and from the balsamic vinegar. The dish was good, but ahr's dish of tuna tartare with sea urchin vinaigrette was excellent. While I admit to having expressed curiosity about the appropriateness of the pairing prior to sampling the dish, the sea urchin sauce spoke clearly of the ingredient, doing it justice. The tuna was a far better canvas for the sea urchin sauce than I had contemplated. The very thin, circular crisp included in the dish was helpful to it too. This represented the best sea urchin dish I have sampled in NY. See "Sea Urchin" thread in the NY forum. This course was paired with Chasselas, an Alsatian wine that ahr indicated reminded him on the nose of Gewurtztraminer. It was my first sampling of Chasselas. I handed the wine list over to ahr, who is better positioned to address the pairings. I really wanted to switch into ahr's sea urchin/tuna combination, but ahr was, rightfully of course, relishing it. Note that, unlike the Blue Hill and Union Pacific dinners with fellow eGulleteers when courtesy precluded me from suggesting dish switches, I was quite proactive about securing a dish in which I was more interested. I had originally received the asparagus salad that jhlurie was kind enough to switch with me. I think he may have preferred the salad. (3) cabrales: Braised Nova Scotia lobster "chowder". Fennel, celery root, morels and smoked bacon. ahr: Braised wild striped bass. Bok choy, fennel, roasted garlic and a saffran tomato broth. The lobster dish was hearty and at the same time developed. The flesh of the lobster prepared appropriately and an appealing integration of the ingredients. Wonderful morels, with no hint of sogginess. Small cubes of celery root with a smaller amount of bits of potato, cooked just right. Good saltiness from the bacon; and nice use of leeks and fennel. The texture of even the vegetables was just right, despite the reference to braising in the name of the dish. I ordinarily do not like dishes with multiple ingredients that are too "busy", but this dish pleased me. While the taste of the individual components could be discerned, this was a case of, as Rachel indicated, ingredients amounting to more than the sum of the parts. The saucing in my lobster dish was effective -- while conveying shellfish and cream notes. It had a medium and nice consistency and did not have typical bisque-like or "chowder"-like heaviness. Appropriate use of dill, which can be uninteresting at some other places due to overuse. I also liked, and subjectively found amusing, the inclusion of a few grains of pink peppercorn in the saucing. ahr's bass dish was interesting. The broth had an enticing aroma when served, conveying to ahr and me senses of an "Asian" oil (perhaps peanut or sesame; it might not have been utilized). The tomato broth was darker (in a good way, and without connoting heaviness) than I had imagined, and delicious in a "clean" way. I had two generous spoonfuls of this dish. The first bite, I could not pinpoint what it was that made its composition unsual (in a neutral way). Then, it occurred to ahr and me that the bass was not the "star" in this dish; it was merely part of the rest of the dish, like the bok choy and the tomato broth. An appealing part of this dish was the little mass of bright yellow roasted garlic (it was in a creamy puree form), which wonderfully conferred a dominant flavor in this dish when taken with the bass. (4) ahr, cabrales: Crispy Veal Sweetbreads. Chanterelles, pickled red onion and candied leek. The sweetbreads were sooo yummy. Robust, yet controlled, jus-based saucing with a hint of "stickiness". An appropriate balance between the exterior of the pieces of sweetbread and their more pliant, rich interior. Tiny chanterelles -- the size I prefer. Perhaps there was too much candied leek placed on top of the dish for sampling purposes; however, the visual effects were aided by the sinuous-looking, semi-translucent, yet textured-looking dried candied leek strips. (5) all diners: Potato gnocchi. Morels, caramelized sunchokes and pepper relish. (I am unsure whether this dish preceded the sweetbreads/foie course) Plump little gnocchi, enmeshed in an integration of vegetable goodies. The morels were sauteed, and enhanced the dish. The black mustard seeds identified by Rachel were, to me, a wonderful part of the dish -- their outer coating was slightly slimy/slippery (in a great sense) from the effects of the other ingredients. Their texture was an appealing touch. The gnocchi was paired with 1999 Rocca di Montegrossi, Chianti Classico -- a very good match. (6) cabrales: Roasted free range chicken. Creamy pea and fresh herb risotto, morels and pickled wild leeks ahr: Braised lamb shoulder. Roasted tomato, white beans, arugula and extra virgin olive oil The chicken was flavorful, particularly for a non-Bresse specimen, and well prepared. Tenderness and preservation of juiciness, coupled with a delicately crisp skin. I specified in advance to our dining party that I hoped to receive the chicken, which was consistent with Rachel's wanting to sample the rabbit dish. And I was very pleased. Rachel gifted me the rabbit kidney included in her dish. It was the size of a fava bean, a muted magenta color. I gobbled it up happily. Interesting texture, and quite different in the taste of the raw material from kidney of Bresse chicken (in a dish featuring also crest of that chicken, boudin blanc and meat) I had sampled at Ledoyen (Paris) recently. (7) The cheese course and rhubarb item were as Rachel described. I liked the smokiness of the cheese selected for us. (8) Dessert. I agree that Chef Chika Tillman is a wonderful patissier, and well matched with Chef Seeber. I found the fromage blanc-based dessert not to my tastes, but the Fresh Cherries and Cinammon Macaron with Cherry Sorbet and Tarragon was very good. The cherries were drippingly luscious beneath the top half of a medium sized macaron (the size of a small knuckle). The color and taste of cherries are intrinsically subjectively appealing to me, and this presentation was a prime example of desserts I like. Nice macaron too. The sorbet beneath the layer of cherries was slightly bland for my tastes. Overall, a very good dessert. Members of our dining party did taste each dessert; however, each ended up with more of one than the others. I was happy that dessert took the form of the cherries. As evident from the above, Chef Seeber made a very good meal for us. A cuisine that is developed and that conveys integrated flavors. An articulate cuisine. Other Information The restaurant's decor was quite attractive, with a nice bar area. I liked the utilization of reddish/burgundy-colored little glass receptacles for the candles illuminating the bar. Upon entry into the restaurant, there was a modern looking reddish sofa that I liked. In general, ,modern artwork, although presumably part of a rotation. I liked the sculpture facing me quite a distance away in the dining room -- it was of a unclad woman with arms raised to couch the back of her head. It was kind of Chef Seeber to provide a tour of his kitchen. That was only one of many forms of kindness offered by the chef on my first and last night (for relevant purposes) at Bid.
  2. Gavin -- When you have a chance, could you consider elaborating on that point? Obviously, on things that might or might not be considered humorous, there is considerable subjectivity. Note this thread was intended to merely set forth some things that could be considered by some to be humorous. In my case, I find much humor in an omelette with chicken as filling. But that's me; I doubt too many would necessarily share that view.
  3. I was reviewing Michael Buller's book "French Chefs Cooking", and came across a recipe for "Wooden Leg Soup" (Soupe a la Jambe des Bois) furnished by Paul Bocuse. Bocuse considered this "an immense pot-au-feu. I still serve it." The ingredients include: 1 loin of beef, 3 veal shins, 1 pork shoulder, game, 1 turkey (cut in pieces), 1 leg of lamb, 1 rump of beef, 2 large chickens (cut into pieces), 6 pork sausages, truffles, pistachios, veal shin bone, onions, bouquet garni, plus leeks, turnips and celery. Buller notes: "This larger-than-llife recipe, with its truly Tabelaisian list of ingredeints, makes a good story to tell while dining on a more traditional pot-au-feu. . . Neither Paul nor you should take it too seriously . . . ."
  4. cabrales

    Food with Beer

    Michael Buller's book "French Chefs Cooking" furnishes a recipe from Andre Soltner, formerly of Lutece, for Alsace Fish Tart in Beer Custard. The filling for the pastry includes beer, sole filets, salmon filets, eggs, nutmeg, creme fraiche, salt and pepper, parsley and tarragon.
  5. Hmm, the frequency of my postings about this dish confirms my preoccupation with chicken dishes. Michael Buller's book "French Chefs Cooking" contains the recipe for this dish: Ingredients: 1 black truffle, 1 teaspoon cognac, sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste, 1 chicken (about 3.5 pounds), 3 quarts water, 2-3 medium sized chopped carrots, 1 bouquet garni. "Clean and peel the fresh truffle and marinate in the cognac. Season with salt and pepper. Slice into slivers about 1/4 inch thick. Slip the truffle slices under the breast skin and under the thigh skin. Truss the bird with kitchen string under each thigh. Fill a large Dutch oven or stock pot with the 3 quarts water, bring to a boil over high heat, and add the carrots and bouquet garni. Plung the chicken in the water, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and poach for about 45 minutes, or until tender. Let the chicken sit in its poaching liquid for 30 minutes before serving. Remove the chicken, cut into serving pieces and distribute among 4 soup bowls. Ladle some poaching liquid over each portion and serve, passing the cornichons and mustard in a separate dish." The quality of the chicken is key to this dish, rendering Bresse chicken almost necessary I imagine.
  6. Michael Buller's "French Chefs Cooking" contains the recipe that Bocuse recorded for F Point's "veritable gratin dauphinois" or potato gratin: Ingredients were: 1 clove finely chopped garlic, 2.75 lbs peeled and thinly sliced (Bocuse himself recommends 12/100 of an inch thick) potatoes, 2 large eggs, 0.75 cup of whole milk, 2-3 tablespoons of heavy cream or creme fraiche, pinch of freshly grated nutmeg, salt and ground white pepper to taste, 3.5 tablespoons butter. Preat oven to 350F. Rub the sides of a large enamelled or cast-iron oveproof dish with the garlic clove and butter liberally. Lay thin layers of potatoes on the dish. In a separate bowl, combine the eggs, milk, cream, grated nutmeg, salt and pepper in a mixing bowl and whisk. Spread a thick coating of this mixture over the potatoes in the dish, adding some knobs of butter. Bake for around 45 minutes, or until the potatoes are slightly brown. Open the oven door ajar and let the dish set for a few minutes. Serve very hot. ___________________ Note that F Point resisted the inclusion of cheese in his potato gratin. Buller also notes that some chefs perceive the type of potato as significant. Jean and Pierre Troisgros recomend the French BF 15 potato. Chefs also differ as to the amount of eggs: two eggs (Point and Mere Brazier), 1 egg (Escoffier), and no eggs (Troisgros, Chapel). Escoffier and Bocuse did not recommend the inclusion of cream, according to the book. Have members made a potato gratin using the recipes of the above-described chefs?
  7. I had lunch at Joe's Shanghai on West 56th recently. The crab meat with pork steamed soup dumplings were less delicious than usual. I noted that there is a $23.95/person dinner menu to celebrate the Fourth Anniversary of JS (presumably the West 56th St. branch). A dining room team member described the price as reflecting an average approx. $4-5 reduction relative to a la carte ordering. Note I did not confirm whether portion sizes are identical to those for a la carte dishes. The dishes included in the special menu were: Appetizer (Choice of one) Pork Steamed Soup Bun (6 pieces; a la carte price on menu listed as $6.25) Scallion Pancake (4.50) Five Spiced Braised Sliced Beef (7.95) Shredded Spicy Cabbage (5.95) Turnip Short Cake (4.50) Main (Choice of one) Lobster with Ginger & Scallion (ordinarily $18/lb) Crispy Duck with Peppery Salt (20.95) Grand Marnier Shrimp with Walnut Hong Kong Style Roasted Squab Vegetarian Duck Dessert Mochi Ice Cream
  8. Note St Malo is very close to Roellinger's place at Cancale.
  9. foodie52 -- When you have a chance, could you please elaborate on your perceptions of showmanship? For example, if I encountered an opportunity where I could sample the mice (not that I would be actively pursuing them), I would try to take them in to see how the mice would skirt around inside my mouth. (It would make the Iron Chef "danced inside my mouth" references take on a new meaning). I would not be doing it for showmanship, but rather to experience the movement aspects and the thrill of a proximity between the eater and the eaten. However, I appreciate that the mice might be unpalatable to some members. Russ -- Nina W and I recently sampled live orange and hokki clams at Sushi Hatsu in New York. Below is the link: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?ac...355e2c3693d4926
  10. Beachfan -- Unfortunately, I do not recall the price. Note that the version of the menu I received did not contain prices. I had considered ordering that menu and did not think the prices exorbitant (in the context of Ducasse). However, the chicken I sampled would not have been an available choice.
  11. Rail Paul recently created a thread on whether the method of slaughter/trauma to fish may affect taste. Consider viewing it, including in the context of my question in that thread about whether Kosher or Halal techniques of slaughter might affect the taste of meat: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...st=0#entry62021
  12. I visited the bar at Plaza Athenee Hotel recently. This is not affiliated with Ducasse's restaurant; however, it was described as offering food very generally (i.e., not actually) supervised by Ducasse. This bar has been hyped of late because of (1) its design by a P Starck pupil, (2) its ice blue, illuminated bar area (which was beautiful, but not as long as I had anticipated), and (3) its use of jello shots in drinks. The bar's food menu was much simpler than I had imagined – (1) a selection of amuses (e.g., smoked salmon; foie gras on toast), (2) various salads and tartines and sandwiches, and (3) a decent selection of desserts (including an almond ice cream that I considered ordering, but did not). Below were the items taken: Chaud/froid de volaille au vert; cuisse de volaille de Bresse nappe au sauce verte accompanee d’une marinade de legumes croquants (23 euros) (Salad with Bresse chicken drapped in a green sauce and accompanied by vegetables) Tartine Landaise; fine tranche de pain de campagne, marmelade de figues epicees, foie gras de canard confit (22) (Tart from the Landes region of Southern France; thin pieces of country bread, a marmelade of spiced figs, and duck foie gras confit) Glass of Lanson, Nobel cuvee, 1989 (22) Rose Royal drink (rasberries and champagne, one of the signature drinks of the bar) (22) Jelly Shots I picked the most complex dish on the menu with the salad of Bresse chicken, covered in a green, vegetable-and-herb-based sauce and a light, liquid white mayonnaise. The chicken was well-prepared, and the green sauce and white sauce formed broad stripes on top of the chicken. A decent, entree-size dish with an appropriate salad included. The tartine dish consisted of three long segments of hard-tasting bread, with foie gras terrine on top. Fortunately, the unduly sweet figs marmelade was served in a little dish and not included in copious amounts on the bread segments. The foie gras was nothing special. The jello shots consisted of 9 small slices of jello. There were three varieties, each of which had three colors within it representing the distinct principal ingredients of a corresponding drink: (1) B52, (2) a pineapple based drink whose jello shot had a strong peach flavor for some reason, and (3) a drink featuring an apple-based liquor (not Calvados). The drinks were all average. This bar is overhyped, although the decor is rather attractive. Apart from the ice blue bar, there were generally long communal tables with low-hanging tiny, silver/blue chandeliers. Also, on the right hand side upon entering the bar, more low sofas for groups of 3-4, with their own tables, and some red lighting. Probably not worth a visit, except for drinks and the "hype" factor (if relevant). I don't feel a need to return any time soon, although I am glad I visited to find out. A quick note on my Avatar. I like this Charlie Brown one quite a bit, and will likely adhere to it for a while.
  13. Below is a description of a good-plus lunch at Plaza Athenee during 2Q 2002. Araignee de mer decortiquee, jus emulsionne lie de corail (French spider crab removed from the shell, an emulsion jus linked with the coral) Volaille de Bresse, chapelure de morille, jus/garniture d’ecrevisses (Bresse chicken, morel sauce, jus and garnishments of crayfish) Fromages (Roquefort) Caille de brebis, caramel-poivre, miel d’arbousier (ewes' curdle?, caramel-pepper, honey) Chassagne Montrachet, Clos de la Truffiere, Niellon 1996 Menthe chocolate infusion – a special type of mint The amuse was a piece of slightly-below-room temperature red mullet, with a light-apricot-colored aioli on top. Nice use of garlic, and not a bad accompaniment in the form of small discs of thin potatoes decorated with diced olives and red peppers. Around these items was a greenish colored oil that likely contained some of the ingredients of pesto. The amuse displayed Ducasse’s style of Mediterranean-style cooking that, among other things, renders his cuisine less attractive to me. Nonetheless, the amuse was an appropriately-executed dish. The breads offered were varied, and one was of an unusual shape consisting of several pieces connected in an “unnatural”-looking way. The spider crab appetizer was very good, but for some over-salting. Even with this problem, it was an attractive dish. The visual appeal of the dish was obvious – there appeared the roundish, cardinal red/orange colored shell of the spider crab (with its eyes, etc. included) on its back. There was a large volume of light coral-colored emulsion (made with the coral/roe of the crab) filling the entire area above the edges of the shell of the crab. When one delved below the emulsion, there were abundant amounts of strands of fresh-tasting, flavorful spider crab meat (as noted, oversalted). There was a brownish crab jus mixed in with the spider crab meat, and the resulting mixture was intense and tasty. The coral emulsion itself was very light, but highly expressive of roe. The Bresse chicken dish consisted of poularde, instead of poulet (I prefer poularde, which has to meet different requirements than poulet per AOC standards). It consisted of three main components: (1) the largest component was a breast piece with a layer of grated morels on top of it – this was unduly dry and caused the overall dish to be so-so, (2) three or four curled ecrevisse bodies (small), with their tails on, and (3) a good mixture of cut-up morels integrated with coral-colored ecrevisse sauce and bits of both white and dark meat from Bresse chicken. On top of the mixture in (3) was a whole ecrevisse, orange and stark and dramatic in its presentation (with the head, tail, shell, “whiskers”, etc.) as it “stood guard” on top of the mixture. The overall saucing of the dish was a morel sauce, but added to it (and poured at the table) was a coral-colored ecrevisse sauce. This ecrevisse sauce reminded me of lobster bisque (in a good way). The color effects as the different components of the saucing ran into one another were appealing. The caille of brebis was good, and the caramel cold item was rich and tasty. The honey ice cream was also attractive. A good combination of desserts, because there was a slight element of saltiness in the caille of brebis that rendered the sugary aspects of the caramel and of the honey ice cream more interesting. The tea/infusion trolley was nice, and being the recipient of the snipped leaves, etc. left me agreeing with mao and vivin that this was a nice touch (as opposed to my previous position that this was arguably gimmicky). There were four little plants on the trolley, along with various accoutrements necessary for the preparation of the drinks – romarin (rosemary), thym-citron (a type of thyme perhaps?), menthe chocolate (a special type of mint, with no particular chocolate connotations) and verveine (verbena). I could not say the mint tasted better than other mint infusions I have had, but I did like the snipping and preparation process for some reason. The mignardises were appropriate: (1) numerous chocolate macarons and caramel macarons (the latter were not bad), (2) little “churizo” long donuts, in miniature size, that one sometimes finds in NY street fairs, offered with warm chocolate dipping sauce, and (3) other items. Decor and Service The dining room is nice. The classical gold and white backdrop of the old-style room is well-utilized by a Starck pupil who provided very modern and attractive designs. The beautiful large chandeliers are enclosed, from the ceiling down, in very dramatic greyish mesh sections that are conical and long and enclose the chandelier. There are curvy grey partitions used along certain sections of the walls of the room, and also two pictures of young people clad in white on the side of the non-functional mantleplace. Medium grey chairs, with some apricot chairs. The same color schemes for the carpets. Nice lighting, and a very attractive environment in my view. Nice touches included the availability of a handbag stool matching the seats in the restaurant. Unappealing touches included the table ornament being a quasi-abstracted bronze (?) depiction of the Tour Eiffel. Service imperfections were (1) the lack of availability of the late 1980's half- bottle of L. Jadot Batard Montrachet I initially chose, (2) the lack of explanation of the amuse until I asked, and (3) the sommelier’s assumption that I would order wine by the glass and his slow provision of the wine list (which was not unreasonably priced for a restaurant of this caliber in certain areas). Overall, the service was very good, with the dining room waiting team being a bit stronger than the sommeliers on that particular day. My assessment of Ducasse’s cuisine has improved, from not having liked it (not that I like it a lot . Based on this visit, I would say that I still do not subjectively prefer Ducasse’s cuisine – it’s a bit “in your face” and direct with respect to flavors and lacks the subtlety I prefer. However, the flavors were crisp and distinct (if slightly uncontrolled), and the dishes were generally well-executed. I now rate Ducasse a bit more highly than before, and I do not think he should be stripped of his third star at Plaza Athenee. Other Items From The Spring 2002 Menu (Rough Translations) Plaisirs de Table (Pleasures of the Table) Homard bleu, asperges/caviar, sucs de cuisson reduits (available also in ½ portion) (Lobster, likely from Brittany, asparagus/caviar, reduction of cooking juices) Specialtes (Specialties) Langoustines rafraichies, nage reduite, caviar oscietre royal (available also in ½ portion) (Langoustines, reduced nage, special type of oscetra caviar) La Carte Asperges vertes de chez “Blanc”, comte/vin jaune/truffe noire (Green asparagus like at Blanc’s – unlikely to be Georges Blanc and likely to be referring to a producer, comte cheese/yellow wine/black truffle) Foie gras de canard confit, condiment de fruits epice (Confit of duck foie gras, spiced fruit condiments) Bar de ligne, mariniere au jus de persil, morilles (Line-caught bass, marinated in a parsley jus, morels) Sole de petit bateau a la riche (Sole caught from small boats, “a la riche”?) Turbot de Bretagne a plat, coquillages, sucs au beurre demi-sel (Brittany turbot, various clam-type shellfish, saucing based on semi-salted butter) Agneau laiton du Limousin marine aux truffes noires (Lamb from Limousin marinated with black truffles) Pigeonneau desosse, puis farci, jus a l’olive (Pigeonneau ?, then stuffed, olive jus) Veau d’eleveur en piccata, facon Argenteuil (Veal piccata, Argenteuil method) Collection “Caviar/Crustaces” (Collection of Caviar/Shellfish) Trois plats “caviar/crustaces” en demi, fromages et dessert (Three half-portioned dishes “caviar/shellfish”, cheese and dessert) Menu “Plaisirs de Table” Trois plats en demi choisis dans “la carte”, fromages et dessert (Three half-portioned dishes chosen from the “La carte” section of the menu, which includes the spider crab dish), cheese and dessert Dessert Baba au rhum comme a Monte-Carlo (Baba au rhum as in Monte-Carlo) Banane a la banane, en feuilles croquantes (Banana dessert, in crunchy leaves/layers) Choco/menthe en chaud/froid (Chocolate/mint) Fraises de Plougastel en coupe glacee a la napolitaine (Strawberries from Plougastel) Vacherin facon contemporain: fraises/fraises des bois, au parfum de thym-citron (Certain cake, contemporary style, with strawberries and wild strawberries, flavored with thyme-lemon)
  14. I'd appreciate available input on the Roux brasserie from other members who have visited.
  15. cabrales

    Jewel Bako

    Charles -- When you have a chance, could you consider describing the "live" urchins you had at Jewel Bako? For example, how could you visually confirm they were alive -- did they "move" in a very limited manner? I have been exploring "live" clams recently, as discussed in the Sushi Hatsu thread.
  16. Rail Paul -- Thanks for your very helpful post. When you have a chance, could you please discuss whether you experienced or heard second-hand information about the fishing camps on the Campbell River. This seems to be a less expensive and less time-consuming means of experiencing "live" salmon. Plus, I have wanted to visit Wickannish Inn (spelling) at Tofino on Vancouver Island for some time now. On endorphins and the relevance of the method of termination to taste, that's a very interesting topic. I don't have much to contribute, but I would be interested in hearing members' input.
  17. SobaAddict70 and I had dinner at Gramercy Tavern Thursday night. We saw flaws in at least one of the non-dessert dishes we each took in. For me, the meal overall was fairly good, taking into account Fleming's well-calibrated lemon dessert. Below were the items taken in: (1) Marinated Hamachi with Roasted Beets and Lemon Vinaigrette [seared Foie Gras with Cherries, Dandelion Greens, Onion Soubise and Balsamic Vinegar ($10 supp), with non-Parce Banyuls] I was looking forward to this dish, which the 2001 NY Guide to NYC Restaurants had described it thus: Colicchio's "best dishes take flavor to extremes. Mainated hamachi is brushed with lemon and olive oil; roast beets and herbs are scattered across the top. The clean, fresh taste of the fish comes soaring through with the clarity of a flute." For me, the hamachi appetizer was average. Four or five slices, each double the thickness of sashimi, were set forth amidst the described accompaniments. I would have liked greater tartness in the lemon vinaigrette, and found the saucing for this dish somehow disconsonant with the taste inherent in the yellowtail. With this I took in a US all-Chardonnary sparkling wine. (2) Organic Chicken with Mild Mushrooms and Roasted Vegetables [Roasted Rabbit with Olives, Shallots, Galic and Rosemary, with a Cote Rotie] I liked my chicken main, which was accompanied by a good amount of appropriately prepared morels, cremini and shiitake. The saucing was a jus reduction. The chicken, while not as flavorful as Bresse chicken, did have the appropriate flavors, and it was moist and well-prepared. Interestingly, there was not a noticeable amount of fat lodged between the flesh and the skin. Partially in view of that, the skin tasted slightly different, but in a good way. I chose a California Chardonnay by the glass. I sampled a bite of Soba's rabbit dish -- tender, but noticeably oversalted. I defer to Soba for the description. (3) Lemon Souffle Tart, with Lemon Verbena Ice Cream and Lemon Confit [Peach Tatin, with Black Pepper Parfait, Whit Peach Sorbet and Basil Syrup] It is telling of the meal overall that Fleming's lemon dessert was the best dish in it. The warm lemon cake (neither a souffle nor a tart, in the commonly-understood sense of either word). The lemon verbena ice cream was perfumed, and was more sugarly than I had expected. This was a nice element when taken with the lemon souffle tart. Overall, a delicious dessert. I had a Glass of Rivesalte.
  18. cabrales

    fresh.

    Rail Paul -- I'm not sure. I believe my friend who forwarded the information to me heard it through some sort of update service regarding NYC developments. I'm inclined to sample Citarella The Restaurant before Fresh in any event, given a greater interest in Bouley than in Gotham.
  19. Christopher -- Are you taking some days off before making the move? Last night, Soba and I took in a late dinner at Gramercy Tavern. The receptionist indicated that you had left the restaurant for another -- err, you might find the Restaurant Week thread interesting.
  20. cabrales

    Jewel Bako

    Soba -- When you have a chance, could you discuss what the restaurant advised regarding fugu? Is it the potentially poisonous fugu from Japan, and where there any indications as to when it might be available? Also, was mention made by the restaurant of the experience it has with this product?
  21. cabrales

    fresh.

    Bux -- An interesting comparison, I imagine, might be Fresh versus Citarella, the Restaurant. Both presumably have access to first-rate fish and shellfish. Both chefs came from well-known restaurants (Gotham and, in the case of B Bistrong, Bouley, among other facilities).
  22. cabrales

    fresh.

    Bux -- I'm uncertain whether Fresh has begun operations. I wonder if the use of the "Kobe beef" analogy to market tuna is merely a fancy way of referring to O Toro-grade fish.
  23. Below are materials forward by a friend whom I have been attempting to recruit to the board (unsuccessfully, so far) and who follows new restaurant openings more closely: "When Eric Tevrow lured Martin Burge from the chef de cuisine post at Gotham Bar & Grill to sign on at Fresh, his elegant new seafood restaurant, Tevrow sweetened the deal with something even better than prime Tribeca real estate: first dibs on the daily Eastern-seaboard catch, courtesy of Early Morning Seafood, Tevrow's wholesale purveyor to star chefs like Alain Ducasse and Gray Kunz. Burge makes the most of his inside sources with rillettes of gaspy cod and finnan haddie, Ipswich fried clams, 'Kobe beef' of bluefin toro, and an array of whimsically named 'prime cuts,' like baby-back halibut ribs steamed in kelp. Fellow Gotham alum Joseph Murphy dishes up seasonal desserts like wild-strawberry shortcake and warm blueberry financier. 105 Reade Street (between W Broadway and Church?) 212-406-1900"
  24. Have any members taken a room at Les Rimains? It has fewer rooms, and is closer to the gastronomic restaurant.
  25. I cannot currently think of a restaurant in NY that falls in that category. The reason for this are (1) I generally do not "die" to visit any restaurant unless I have subjectively determined it is appropriate for me, and (2) I would already have visited any restaurants I was very interested in. There are several restaurants that I am interested in further exploring (including Cello and Bouley). I'd also be interested in dining at the ADNY kitchen table. I have not eaten at a Patricia Yeo restaurant, at Veritas, or at Atelier (relatively new). However, while I plan to try them, I am not "dying" to visit them. I am rather eager to try Roelllinger's restaurant in Cancale (France) and certain Spanish three-stars (including El Bulli). I've never sampled Trotter's food, nor visited Morimoto and post-chef-change Le Bec Fin in Philly. However, I am not "dying" to visit any of the above restaurants. I am "dying" to revisit the very few restaurants that I have determined, from past visits, have the potential to offer "art" experiences for me. As I have mentioned before, other restaurants I pine to visit are no longer options. They are restaurants like those of F Point, A Chapel, F Girardet ...
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