cabrales

I appreciate that Bux has discussed some of the differences between Richeux and Les Rimains lodgings at Roellinger's. Could Bux or other members further provide information on the choice of accomodations? Have any members dined at La Coquillage (the Roellinger bistro-like restaurant)? Other restaurants in Cancale include, from the Michelin guide, Cancalais, Surcouf (Bib Gourman) and Troquet. I'd appreciate any available input on those facilities as well.

John -- What are your other favorite restaurants (in the world)?

Malawry -- When you have a chance, please indicate whether the school has asked you to prepare for courses by undertaking background reading, purchasing personal cooking equipment, etc.

I contacted Momo regarding Sketch. When I asked what the anticipated date of opening for Sketch might be, the Momo receptionist indicated, after consulting with the manager, that no date could be provided. I also attempted to call the number for Sketch mentioned in Andy's Caterer article link -- no connection. Square Meal notes the following: "A who’s who of modern designers has transformed the former Christian Dior premises into a dreamscape of glazed glass ceilings, inflatable banquettes, laser lighting and copper wall panels studded with Swarovski crystals. Dry clean your glad rags for the August launch. 9 Conduit Street W1, Tel: 0870 777 4488." http://www.squaremeal.co.uk/news/display_n...news.cgi?type=6

John -- I'm relieved you are not contemplating an "in" group consisting of members who read French menus.

John -- I hope you consider it appropriate for me to translate, very roughly, your menu at Buerehiesel for other members: A marinade of tuna, cod mousseline and vegetables with basil oil Schniederspaetle and frogs' legs dish I recently sampled John-Dory, mussels and beans Tarbias (?), with dill and lemon confit Roast (?) tartines with ducks' liver, fleur de sel, pepper, little salad of rocket and raw artichokes Breast of pigeon with cabbage, confit shallots and wild mushrooms Fig tart, spice ice cream Sweet trolly

Below is an excerpt on La Mere Brazier from the LA Times (March 18, 1998, "She Was the First Six-Star Chef", by Leilah Bernstein -- referring to then Ducasse, and, since 1998, Veyrat): "Eugenie Brazier was propelled into the highest ranks of French cuisine when each of her two restaurants--La Mere Brazier in Lyons and La Mere Brazier in Le Col de la Luere, in the mountainous countryside 12 miles outside the city--received three stars. That year, she became the first woman to receive Michelin's three-star ranking and the first French chef to receive the top ranking for two different restaurants. . . . . Each meal began with a plate of local sausage. The fish course was quenelles de brochet, then came her famous poularde en demi-deuil ( chicken in half- mourning) and, after, fonds d'artichauts au foie gras (artichokehearts with foie gras), which was usually served with a young Beaujolais. Elizabeth David, the famous English cookery writer, once called Brazier's artichoke dish 'a perfectly simple and straightforward salad' and 'one of the most delicious salads I have ever eaten.'"

Nick & pirate -- Thanks. The dish I had did not resemble the "classic" described in Nick's post. It was not pancake-like. It was like a potato-based tart, with the boudin noir in thin slices on top. Bux -- On the risotto being average, it was better than average relative to the price. Perhaps a clarification is to say that there was nothing outstanding about it. Nonetheless, it was appropriately executed.

I had lunch at Auberge de L’Ill for the first time recently. I ordered the menu at 106 euros, which was a relatively reasonable price for a three-star restaurant. It included two appetizers, one main course, the cheese course and dessert (coffee not included). La Terrine de Foie d’Oie Truffee (Goose Liver Terrine, with Truffles) Le Saumon Souffle “Auberge de L’Ill” (Salmon Souffle named after the restaurant) [Veal with Morel Sauce, White Asparagus] La Peche “Haeberlin” (The “Haeberlin” Peach) Aperitif Maison (Champagne with Griottes syrup) (11 euros) ½ Chassagne Montrachet, Les Caillerets, Jean-Noel Gagnard 1996 (50 euros) The amuses were (1) a large serving (for an amuse) of smoked salmon wrapped in Vietnamese-style rice paper, with Vietnamese-style rice vermicelli and julienne, crunchy carrots inside the package, (2) cheese crisps, and (3) a terrine with a smoked salmon outer enclosure and smoked trout mousse and smoked trout pieces in the inside (served with a nicely intense, white-colored sauce also flavored with, among other things, trout), with a quail’s egg matched with salmon roe. The amuses were average. A very large portion of the foie terrine is shown to the diner in a blue and white ceramic-like jar that sat in a large bowl of crushed ice. The dining room team member scooped out two large curled sections of the terrine for placement on my plate next to blush-colored port-flavored, crushed gelee. There were small amounts of truffle in the middle of the foie sections. A warm piece of bread was offered with the dish. When I tasted the foie terrine, I could not believe the sour notes in it. Previously, I had experienced the same taste when dining companions returned foie gras acknowledged by Michel Rostang’s restaurant in Paris to have been spoiled. While I could not be certain the goose liver at Auberge de L’Ill was spoiled, I would say I was 80% convinced. Leaving aside the sourness, there was nothing special about the liver terrine. (Note Alsace, like Gascony and certain other areas in France, is known for the production of foie gras) It would be surprising that other clients would not have complained, but perhaps one doesn’t register such displeasure at three-star restaurants unless one is absolutely sure. I looked up the recipe for the terrine after the meal in one of the Haeberlins’ cookbooks available from the restaurant, and there was no verjus or other ingredient which might have contributed to the sourness. (For example, Guerard at Pres d’Eugenie sometimes utilizes verjus with foie gras, and that would have explained the sourness in the absence of spoilage.) The salmon souffle did not resemble a traditional souffle in presentation. It was sausage-like, but a bit flatter than most sausages. It was the length of an outstretched hand. Like the other dishes, the serving size was significant. The salmon was on the bottom of the sausage-like item, and light egg-related souffle components were on top of it. The souffle part had pike (brochet) mixed into it, and the skin of the souffle had an elasticity that reminded me of the skin of the quenelles de brochet taken at La Mere Brazier in Lyons. The skin was also slightly browned in certain places. The salmon souffle disappointed me because (1) it was too “traditional” tasting, and (2) the accompanying Riesling-reduction sauce was nothing special. The small puff pastry shaped to resemble a leaf and the appropriate crushed tomatoes accompanying the dish could not lift the dish out of mediocrity. The edges of the veal pieces in my main course were darkened, and the flesh was appropriate cooked and somewhat tender. However, the mushroom sauce for this dish was too traditional. The morels were relatively soggy. The white asparagus with greyish tips were from Alsace, and were good. One was slightly bitter, and the restaurant explained that it was due to the weather conditions this year. Nonetheless, the taste was flavorful and yet “clear”. There were also two pieces of gnocchi, which were alright. The cheese trolley had significant local representation, and was not particularly appealing to me. The only blues available were Roquefort and Fourme d’Ambert, and I chose Roquefort and epoisse taken with green apple slices. The mignardises were appropriate, and included (1) an orange-flavored macaron, (2) a raspberry cream mini tart with a piece of strawberry perched atop, and (3) a cream puff dusted with nuts and filled with coffee cream. The dessert was a white peach poached (?) in vanilla syrup, and covered with a sabayon flavored with champagne. The peach was nicely done, and rather delicate. The accompanying pistachio ice cream was nice too, and had a bit of Chantilly cream on top of it and a little chocolate decoration that was non-functional. The ice cream had a nice graininess. Well-executed, with the only weakness being an unduly traditional “feel” to this dessert, like the other parts of the meal. Overall, a very traditional meal that was not close to meeting my expectations. Of all the dishes I ordered, only the veal was not a signature dish of the Haeberlins. It was particularly disappointing that the restaurant’s well-known dishes were so “ordinary”. If it were up to me, I would demote Auberge de L’Ill from three-star status in short order. Service The service was excellent. My dining room team member was knowledgeable, friendly in a polished manner and offered the appropriate balance between helpfulness/involvement and “laissez faire”. There were several female dining room team members – many more than the average three-star restaurant in France. The sommelier team was strong, and the wine list was relatively reasonably priced in several categories. There was, as expected, a strong representation of Alsatian wines, although I adhered to my usual White Burgundy. There was strong presence from the Haeberlin family in the restaurant. The wife of Marc Haeberlin (the youngest member of the dynasty and the current chef), Jean-Pierre Haeberlin (who assists in greeting and provides the watercolors that adorn the restaurant’s menu) and Paul Haeberlin (the former chef) were all seen at different points in the meal. Paul Haeberlin appeared quite old, and was greeting primarily the clients he knew. I did not receive much attention from him, as he was chatting happily with a German couple. Access, Decor & Clientele Strasbourg is the closest major French city to Illhaeusern. From Paris, Strasbourg is a 4 hour train ride (from Gare de L’Est), as no TGV is available to this destination. At Strasbourg, the train to Selestat can be taken (approximately 20 minutes); Colmar is another nearby town. From Selestat’s train station, the restaurant is an approx. 15 minute by taxi (charge approx. 20 euros). There is not always taxi availability at the station, and the restaurant can be contacted to have a taxi waiting at the appropriate time. The restaurant is located next to the L’Ill river, which had relatively fast water flows. The day I visited, it was raining, and the river had a certain poetic feel to it. The restaurant is somewhat close to the river, with a large overarching tree not unlike that at Waterside Inn in Bray (UK). The “feel” of the scenery has certain similarities to Waterside Inn as well, although the restaurant is larger here. There appeared to be two principal rooms, with the “main” dining room (not necessarily by size) being decorated in white and a pale evergreen hue. The decor of the restaurant was not as antiquated as I expected, and it had a comfortable, arguably quasi-elegant, aspect to it. It was somewhat more tasteful than, for example, the dining room at L’Esperance, although it was clearly not among the more modern dining rooms. Upon walking into the restaurant, this main dining room is on the right hand side. It has a quasi-semi-circular (with edges, so that the shapes were not round) section that was slightly closer to the river. I sat facing the river, next to an appealing painting roughly depicting the forms of one of the Haeberlins in his kitchen. I saw a painting of Jean and Pierre Troisgros at Roanne by the same artist, and had liked it there as well (one accesses it by walking past the gastronomic library). The same artist has works displayed in the greeting area at Auberge de L’Ill. The chairs had wood carvings of swans’ heads along their backs, and the muted evergreen carpet in the main dining room had subtle designs with a swirly representation of the letter “H” in a salmon tone. The draperies were appropriately white, and there were expanses of window areas through which the bend in the river could be seen and which exposed wooden deck chairs and tables, cheerful flowerbeds and much greenery. In the main dining room, the clientele at lunch was more than 50% German. A taxi driver confirmed to me that that was not unusual (with a smaller Swiss contingent). For example, the restaurant is approximately 50 km from the German city of Freiburg, according to the driver. The capacity of the restaurant is significant. Other Notes The menu lists various specialties of the restaurant, which are indicated to have contributed to the fame of the restaurant. Those were (1) the goose liver terrine and salmon souffle I ordered, (2) La truffe sous la cendre (a whole truffle in pastry, cooked under embers(?) and served with a large pool of dark sauce; it was 100 euros a serving, (3) La mousseline de grenouilles “Paul Haeberlin” (a mousseline of frogs named after the current chef’s father), and (4) Le homard Prince Vladimir (lobster “Prince Vladimir” style, with the flesh removed from the shell and served with a champagne sauce). The 106 euro menu I had offered 2-3 choices for each course. There was a more expansive menu (dubbed the Haeberlin Menu) that was under 150 euros. The Haeberlin menu does not offer a choice.

pirate -- What is the classic one? I wonder what the "bernais" at the end of the name refers to.

I had pleasing dinner at Westermann's Buerehiesel recently. This is an interesting meal experience when taken on the same day as lunch at Auberge de L’Ill (not loaded onto board). Both restaurants seek to showcase, among other things, certain aspects of Alsatian cuisine and both are relatively traditional in cuisine style conception. However, while Auberge was unappealing to me, Buerehiesel offered a traditional cuisine that was attractive and authentic. The differences were cumulative, with many aspects of Buerehiesel pleasing me (despite the kitschy, tasteless decor of the restaurant). Another raining, slightly cold evening – as I like it. And it turned out I liked this restaurant as well, based on my first visit. The more traditional style of Buerehiesel is not my preferred French cuisine approach, but I was suitably impressed by the flavors. Obviously, Buerehiesel’s cuisine is more along the lines of that of Loiseau (La Cote d’Or) or Lameloise than the cuisine of Bras. However, the allowance of the flavors of the products to show through, with appropriately balanced, pleased. – ½ Schniederspaetle et cuisses de Grenouille poelees, au Cerfeuil (25 euros) (½ portion of special ravioli-like pasta and pan-fried frogs’ legs, with chervil) – Poularde de Bresse cuite entiere comme un Baeckeoffe, aux Pommes de terre, Artichauts, Citron confit et au Romarin (106 euros for 2 persons) (Bresse chicken cooked whole in a Baeckeoffe vessel, with potatoes, artichokes, confit lemon and rosemary) – Chariot de Fruits, Glaces et Entremets (17); Glace a la Biere et Glace Verveine (Cart of Fruits, Ice creams and Entremets) Glass of House aperitif, champagne flavored with certain red fruits ½ bottle of Batard Montrachet, Louis Jadot 1994 (less than 80 euros) Carola Red, French sparkling water It was evident from the amuses that this restaurant was different from Auberge de L’Ill. A well-seasoned piece of lisette (young mackerel with tenderness in the meat) on a little piece of toast was good. The greenish skin of the lisette was attractive-looking as well, with strips of darkened color that ran through the greenish glean of the fish – I had seen gleaming fresh mackerel delivered to Basildog’s restaurant recently. Also, a small piece of deep-fried aubergine – coated with just the right amount of batter and having been fried at the last minute to render it crisp in the way I prefer. Then, a cup of green pea soup – appealing because it was not particularly hot (a slightly warm temperature), and had only a tiny little crouton. The pea flavor was delicate, and enhanced by small slivers of a blush-colored shellfish gelee. The gelee had appropriately limited flavors, but it added texture and I appreciated the slight extent to which it changed the taste of the soup. There were small amounts of the gelee still attached to the bowl towards the bottom of the soup. The final amuse was an unusually (in a good way) flavored rolled strip of zucchini. I sampled the beer-flavored bread, described as being a specialty of the region, and thought it was nothing special. Like the Bresse chicken entree, the ½ portion of frogs’ legs is a dish for which Buerehiesel is known. Even the ½ portion offered a good sampling of 6-8 little legs, and 2 medium-sized ravioli-like pasta items with curvy rounded edges. (I do not generally order frogs’ legs unless they are a specialty dish, like Loiseau’s jambonettes with garlic and with parsley puree. The Buerehiesel frogs’ legs were much better.) The meat had been scraped from the portion of the frogs’ legs near the feet (which, of course, were not included) so that it was next to the larger piece of meat from the thigh. This not only facilitated the eating of the item, but also concentrated the meat and facilitated its retention of moisture during cooking, I speculated. The meat was flavorful, moist and was the fattiest (inherent in the meat and not at all separate) frogs’ flesh I remember having eaten. Very high quality frogs’ meat had been used, and the dining room team indicated that it had not been subjected to freezing. A very attractive sauce based on a little bit of cream, but mainly featuring the cooking jus and nicely seasoned. The two pasta-like items were good, without meaningful amounts of accompanying sauce (one had a bit of butter-based reduction, but there was possibly butter utilized for the pasta skin itself). Good use of vinegar seasoning in the inside of the pasta, which contained soft julienne of a vegetable, to confer acidity. A dish in equilibrium, as was the Bresse chicken dish to come. The chicken was brought to the table sealed in a large oval ceramic cooking vessel, with dough having been placed around the lid to seal the vessel. The little metallic red/white/blue tag from the Bresse AOC poularde was embedded in the resulting bread-like sealing ring, as was the case for Loraine’s Bresse chicken in champagne sauce. When the vessel was unsealed, Westermann’s resulting chicken dish was glorious-smelling. The first serving was of the breast, with generous amounts of potatoes (cut into longish pieces), softened small onions, very tender artichoked hearts and, wonderfully, tomatoes. The cooking jus of the chicken had infused itself thoroughly in the described vegetables, and the effect was enhanced by the presence of significant amounts of oil from the chicken in the cooking jus. This fatty chicken oil (naturally produced from the cooking) elevated the dish, because it added to the depth of chicken flavor of the dish and rendered the chicken flesh slippery. The cooking jus resembled what might expect from roast chicken or one’s Thanksgiving turkey, with deeper and more developed flavors. I particularly liked the use of tomatoes, which were not over-cooked, for an unknown reason (e.g., placement inside the chicken during cooking, placement on top of the chicken during cooking such that the tomatoes did not touch the sides or bottom of the cooking vessel). The lemon confit was not particularly apparent in the dish, although it likely contributed to the general flavor of the dish. The Bresse chicken was smooth and delicious. The second serving of the chicken consisted of the thighs and wings and other dark meat areas. The vegetable helpings continued to be generous. This was excellent again. The restaurant insisted on my taking the remaining half of the chicken (which is generally served to two people) with me in a vacuum pack. I initially declined, as appeared appropriate, but the continued insistence of the restaurant was nice. (The next day, I sampled the chicken after placing the pack in hot water. The potatoes had even more flavor, including lemon confit flavor, although the chicken was not as interesting as the night it had been cooked.) The restaurant offered me both the large dessert trolley and two scoops of ice cream from different menu desserts for the price of the trolley. The trolley had 4-5 different types of fruit (strawberries that looked good, mixed fruit, fresh rhubarb that was an herb green), a tall-looking Alsatian brioche-like item called the Kugelhopf, chocolate cake, chocolate mousse, and many other items. I took the baba au rhum. It was good – and infused everywhere with alcohol. The best part of the dessert was the beer ice cream, which utilized Kronenberg beer and released a beguiling sweetness that blossomed into the persistence of the effects of the beer. I liked the ice cream very much, including relative to the verbena ice cream (heavier in a bad way and somewhat run-of-the-mill in flavor). Overall, an appealing meal that left me slightly more upbeat about traditional-style French cuisine. Decor and Service There are three dining rooms, with the principal dining room being in a white color theme, with many large plants, significant expanses of glass and an Alsatian country feel. There were dark wood beams featured, and hanging from the ceiling of this unusually shaped room were many pieces of glass (apparently) with unusual curved scrawly lines on them. This was an unattractive aspect, together with overly bright lighting, ugly light fixtures, ugly art work and horrific-looking chairs that had silver-colored, metallic curvy legs. I was seated in this main dining room, albeit not in the “outer” section that was closest to the glass-dominated area looking out onto greenery. In this room, there were two tables, each located underneath a sloping edge (akin to an under-the-stairway nook, although no stairway was involved), that offered limited (but more) privacy. The other two dining rooms are smaller, and on the right-hand-side when one enters the restaurant. Both had woodwork on the ceilings; one had a dark rose color scheme, the other featured a color between light and medium blue. The serving plates were ugly, with swipes of gold color featured prominently on most of the plates (some had a white background, others a midnight blue). An excellently priced wine list (as good as the Georges Blanc level) with respect to old champagnes and white Burgundies. For example, a Bollinger 1982 R.D. and a Salon 1985 were each priced at under 1000 FF, which, in the case of the Salon, is just very slightly above or below the Fauchon retail price in Paris. Good representation of regional wines. Reds not checked (I am also in a poorer position to evaluate the quality of red wines). The service was very good, including with respect to the food and the wine. The sommelier was knowledgeable, and, when I asked about the two more expensive bottles of old champagne relative to the ½ bottle of Batard Montrachet, he urged the ½ bottle. Viviane Westermann, the chef’s wife, was continually in the main dining room. She also contributed to the service of the Bresse chicken. At one point in time, there were two people helping to serve and cut the chicken. Antoine Westermann was on hand to greet selected diners after the service. He was very humble, and personable. Other Menu Items (Rough Translations) – Foie gras d’oie frais des Landes fait maison, compote de figue aux epices, gellee au porto, et pain de campagne grille (43 euros) (Fresh goose liver from the Landes region in Southern France, spiced fig compote, port gelee and grilled country bread) – Pate en croute de Pigeon et Poularde au foie gras de Canard truffee (49) (Pigeon and Bresse chicken in pastry with truffled duck foie gras) – Legumes printaniers en vinaigrette a l’huile de Truffe, sandwich de boudin blanc truffe (45) (Vegetables with vinegarette of truffle oil, sandwich of boudin blanc with truffles) – Le filet de brochet aux aromates, poireaux vinaigrette et oeuf poche (44) (Pike filet with various herbs?, leeks vinaigrette with poached egg) – Grosses langoustines poelees, gelee de crustace, asperges vertes et creme d’asperge froide (49) (Pan-fried large langoustines, shellfish gelee, green asparagus and cold cream of asparagus) – Turbot poele aux artichauts poivrade, feves et fenouil, jus de legumes acidules (57) (Pan-fried turbot with artichokes, broad beans and fennel, vegetable jus) –Anguille rotie, jus de volaille a la coriandre fraiche, gateau de pomme de terre au chou blanc (49) (Roasted eel, poultry jus with fresh coriander, potato cake with white cabbage) – Escalope de bar rotie, asperges vertes et gnocchis, coulis d’asperges (54) (Roasted escalope of bass, green asparagus and gnocchis, a coulis of asparagus) – Troncon de sole aux morilles fraiches et petits-pois (52) (Sole with fresh morels and peas) – Homard bleu rotie, pates fraiches a la poudre d’orange, asperges vertes et jus de crustace (67) (Roasted lobster, green asparagus and shellfish jus) – Carre et plate de cote de cochon fermie eleve en plein air roties, blettes et morilles fraiches, gnocchis a la ciboulette (98 euros for 2 persons) (Rack and [side] of farm-raised pig, fresh morels, gnocchis with chives) – Poitrine de pigeon d’alsace rotie, cuisses et ailes farcies, migotee de legumes (52) (Roasted breast of Alsatian pigeon, thighs and another part stuffed, with vegetables) – Foie de veau de lait fermier poele, oignons caramelises au vieux vinaigre et frites de celeri-rave (49) (Pan-fried liver of milk-fed veal, caramelised onions with old vinegar and celeriac fries) – Agneau des Pyrenees roti aux feves et a la tomate confite, hachis parmentier d’agneau au fenouil (49) (Roasted lamb from the Pyrenees with broad beans and confit tomatoes, parmentier of lamb with fennel) – Fraises au jus de fraise reduit, creme battue et glace verveine (Strasberries with reduced strawberry jus, whipped cream? and verbena ice cream) – Pomme confite au four, creme legere au romarin et sorbet Granny Smith (Oven-confit apple, light cream with rosemary and a Granny Smith sorbet) – Creme renversee a la Chicoree, fruits aux epices et granite au café (Reversed cream? with chicory, fruits with spices and with a coffee granite) – Ananas frais roti a la vanille, jus au gingembre, sorbet a l’ananas et sables au citron (Roasted fresh pineapple with vanilla, ginger jus and a pineapple sorbet with lemon sables) – Tarte fine a la rhubarbe, confiture de fraise et glace vanille (Rhubarb tart, strawberry jam and vanilla ice cream) – Brioche caramelisee a la Biere, glace a la Biere et poire rotie (Caramelised brioche with beer, beer ice cream and roasted pear)

I had lunch at La Regelade during 2Q 2002. Pomme macaire de boudin noir bernais (Boudin noir with potatoes) Poelee de calamars facon piballes, riz cremeux a l’encre (Pan-fried squid prepared in the style used for little eels sometimes available in Southern France, creamy rice with ink) Fraises gariguettes d’Aquitaine refraichies au vin rouge (Gariguette strawberries from Acquitaine with a red wine sauce) Pessac Leognan, Le Sillage de Malartic, Malartic-Lagraviere-Leognan-Gironde, 1998 (39 euros) A first visit to a restaurant about which I was admittedly a bit intererested in because of discussion on the board. A good meal at very reasonable prices, in a venue that was welcoming and efficient. Granted, the restaurant has tables that are closely spaced, but that did not detract from my enjoyment of a fairly good meal. The ordering proceeded smoothly. The menu is a prix-fixe only version at 30 euros for 3 courses (the last being cheese or dessert). Certain dishes with supplements were offered, and there were also daily special appetizers and entrees described on various blackboards in the restaurant. To begin, a pork terrine was brought to me in its ceramic cooking container, together with a glass jar of ghuerkins. I liked the country-like, fatty feel of the terrine, and the little bit of solidified fat on top of it. One was allowed effectively as much of this item as one wanted. The appetizer of blood sausage slices placed on top of supple pureed potatoes was the best dish of the meal. The sausage was dark and imbued with blood taste, and the slices had been well-prepared. The potatoes provided a soft background that augmented the intensity of the blood sausage. The edges of the potato area had been rendered gently crunchy, and the sauce for the appetizer was a cooking jus with elements of apple for acidity. I liked that, but considered the little cubes of green apple unnecessary. The main course of squid was fair. The squid had been sliced into longish sections, and was tender and appropriately prepared. It had a fairly good aroma. Interestingly, there were fried parsley (adding a slight crunchiness) and fried garlic slices accompanying it. The underlying risotto with ink was average. The dessert was good. I like the greater sweetness inhering in Gariguettes strawberries, and here they did not disappoint. There was a good amount, in halves, served in a cup. The red wine syrup accompanying the berries was of a light consistency (in a good way), and perfumed appropriately. Overall, based on only one visit, I liked La Regalade, for its well-prepared food.

I dined at L'Angle de Faubourg in Paris during 2Q 2002. An interesting dinner choice, as I had secured reservations at both parent Taillevent and L’Angle de Faubourg, the chef of which had been a sous-chef under Michel de Burgo. As members may know, L’Angle gained its first star this year. Pissaladiere de’escargots “Petits-Gris” au pisto (15 euros) (“Petits-Gris” snails from Burgundy) Paleron de veau braise, jeunes primeurs a la francaise (23) (Braised veal, young vegetables) Ravioles de betterave aux fruits rouges (10) (Beetroot ravioli with red fruits) Glass of Taitttinger special cuvee Chablis, Raveneau, Montee de Tonnerre, 1997 (between 65 and 70 euros) This is a good restaurant with respect to value-for-money, and offers fairly reasonably tasting food. The amuse was caille de brebis with a tapenade and some olive oil. The intensity of the crushed olives in the tapenade was intended to contrast with the caille de brebis, but the resulting flavors were not matching. An acceptable amuse. Meanwhile, I am sipping on the Taittinger champagne and feeling unhappy with it. The escargot appetizer was average. While there was a slightly amusing aspect to the utilization of basil together with garlic in the green-colored sauce for the snails (as opposed to the traditional parsley and garlic pairing), the snails themselves were not as warm as I would have subjectively preferred. There were about 5-8 small snails sitting on top of an unusual-colored pastry piece that was long and narrow (I took almost none of this pastry item, which was overwhelmed by butter tastes and which was also unduly sweet for some reason). The taste of the snails was appropriate, albeit not particularly good. The use of basil was rendered more amusing by the inclusion of leaves of flat parsley in the refreshing salad served as part of this dish. On top of the pastry item, and together with the snails, were lengths of fried onions (?); this neither helped nor hindered the dish. Overall, an acceptable appetizer. The main course of veal, accompanied by nicely cooked vegetables (slices of carrots, beautifully refreshing green peas, a single small piece of radish which was partially colored red, and a single small onion). The flesh of the veal, which had been described to me as having been cooked for 7 hours, was supple and tender. I liked this dish, although the jus of cooking in this context could have suggested a red as opposed to a white wine. The sauce was based on cooking jus. The peas in particular conveyed feelings of the season, and were a nice medium green. The beetroot dessert rendered me curious. Thin slices of a dark, deep burgundy-colored beetroot formed the two parts of “raviolis”. The hues were beautiful, and I was struck by the intensity of the colors. There were perhaps 6 ravioli, with mascarpone cheese and small sections of strawberry inside. In the middle of the raviolis was a marscarpone -flavored ice cream. There was a good amount of burgundy colored beetroot-based syrup surrounding the raviolis. I was struck by the visual appeal of the beetroot, although I would have preferred a slightly softer and less crisp texture to the beetroot ravioli slices. Background After walking about 10 minutes from the relevant section of the Champs Elysees, I arrived at a corner restaurant that seemed ordinary from the outside. The inside was nice – with the color themes of a medium grey (utilized for certain portions of the walls, including ones with large handwritten words, like ones found at Loraine, Joigny, while walking from the ground floor of Cote Saint-Jacques to the lower level of the main dining rooms using the staircase adjacent to the salon) and a matte, reddish clay color. I liked the color scheme, in part because a darker shade of burgundy than what one had at L’Angle is my favorite color. I liked the lighting, which was not too bright and which augmented the decorative elements along the walls. Along the right-hand-side area of the restaurant, one saw, for example, that the clay color had texture – horizontal lines that were of uneven distance from one another. A nice decor for a one-star. The service was more than sufficient for a one-star. In particular, the sommelier team (dominated by women the night I visited – the only place in Paris at which I have witnessed such phenomenon, except at the Bristol) was nice. I was particularly tempted by certain well-priced whites (e.g., Haut-Brion Blanc 1984 at 180 euros, Mersault Clos de la Barre 1996, Lafon at 110 euros) and champagnes (e.g., Salon 1985 at 150 euros). However, I adhered to my original choice of a more reasonably priced Raveneau Chablis. The 1997 Raveneau was a bit young for drinking now, and was a bit too fruity for my tastes. There was a 60 or 65 euro set menu (no choice) for a four-course dinner. The three-course (no choice) dinner on the night I visited was at 35 euros and consisted of: Veloute de laitue aux herbes (veloute of lettuce with herbs); Palerin de beau braise, gratin de macaronis aux artichauts (Braised veal, gratin of macaronis with artichokes); Tarte fine aux pommes, glace caramel et au beurre demi-sel (Apple tart, with caramel ice cream and with half-salted butter). This 35 euro menu was rather appealing, and I would have ordered it, but for my desire to sample the beetroot dessert earlier described. A good quality-to-price relationship, and deserving of a star. Not a cuisine that is inspired, but a reliable, reasonably priced cuisine. Of course, the cuisine at L’Angle is significantly below the level of that at Taillevent, but the cuisine is good and very reasonably priced. In addition, a nicely priced wine list for what is available (although the selections available left much to be desired). The other dishes on the menu on the day I visited were as follows (very rough translations in light of time constraints): Appetizers Veloute de tomate refraichi au basilic (10 euros) (Veloute of tomato with basil) Legumes croquants et pousse de salades, tomme de montaigne (12 ) (Crunchy vegetables, perhaps with a cheese from the mountains??) Rissotto cremeux “de bouche a oreille” (16) (Creamy risotto of the day) Lomo de thon roti aux epices (17) (Tuna roasted with herbs) Gelee de crustaces, salade d’herbes fraiches (17) (Shellfish gelee, with a salad of fresh herbs) Pot de foie de canard confit a l’ancienne (40 for 2 persons) (Duck foie gras, historical style) Main Courses Filets de rouget a la plancha, legumes grilles a la fleur de thym (22) (Grilled red mullet, grilled vegetables with thyme flowers) Cabillaud roti, mijotee de cocos aux aromates (23) (Roasted cod) Selle d’agneau farcie, jus a l’ail rose (22) (Stuffed lamb, pink garlic jus) Magret de canard aux amandes caramelisees (24) (Duck with caramelised almonds) Cheese and Dessert Cabecou frais au vinaigre de miel (8) Roquefort, jus au vin de Banyuls (8) Saint-Nectaire fermier (8) Assiette de sorbets de saison (9) (Plate of seasonal sorbets) Croustillant de rhubarbe, granite au pamplemousse (10) (Rhubarb crunchy item, granite of grapefruit) Nage de fraises au vinaigre balamique (11) (Nage of strawberries with balsamic vinegar) Creme chocolat en capuccino (11) (Chocolate cream, capuccino)

Below is a description of one of the meals taken at M Bras during 2Q 2002. Note I applied the standards for a French three-star, and found the meal gentle and appropriate, but not evocative. Menu Decouverte et Nature (Menu of Discovery and Nature) La gargouillou de jeunes legumes, dit “classique”, releve de graines germees et d’herbes champetres Le filet de turbot etuve, assaisonne de miettes de lard; des radis glacons, jus de roquette sauvage et une emulsion a l’huile rance Le foie gras de canard poele; un jus a l’orange et au sucre entire, poireau tout jeune. Une puree de navet adoucie d’une creme; un jus aux truffes noires et des feuilles fatiguees. Le carre d’agneau Allaiton roti sur os; plantain corne de cerf et feuilles d’erythrone . . . touche de citron sel-sucre, le jus parfume. Les fromages AOC de l’Aveyron et d’a cote, et l’ecir de l’Aubrac Sur une interpretation du coulant, original de 81. Le biscuit tiede de chocolat coulant au sucre entire; creme glacee au caramel et au beurre noisette. Les fraises mara des bois de la vallee du Lot ecrasees sur de la peau de lait, voile de sucre demerara. Le sorbet au fromage blanc, jus au pain brule. House aperatif (1 of 3); "Fraicheur des fleurs" (Sureau flower) Pouilly Fume, Pur Sang, D Dagueneau 1998 Glass of Chateau Gres Saint Paul 1999 (Languedoc) Aperatifs were taken, in my case, in the salon to the left of the main entryway to the building. Nice, modern-shaped, ivory-colored leather individual sofas, with tables featuring different objects: mine included dried oranges and a dried lotus leaf. Others featured my dreaded testtubes (fortunately, not in the serving of the food, like at Veyrat’s Ferme de Mon Pere) with rocks and crystals? The aperatif was nice – a white flower from the region had been made into a slightly sweet, but very aromatic, light-consitency liquer-like substance (perhaps between liquer and wine). The amuses arriving were (1) a single coque-mouillettes – an eggshell with a very runny part of the yolk sitting together with cloud-like semi-solid whisps of white; this day there was cerfeuil (chervil) in a little green mixture atop the egg; also, there were 3 little strips of thin strands of bread on the black serving board; included was a paper explaining the origin and principles behind these eggs); (2) tartine of cepes – like a dessert flan, but savory and very nicely done; thin and with the white of thinly-sliced mushrooms done well. Before I arrived in the dining room, I was already offered a kitchen tour - an excellent beginning. When I went to the dining room, the rest of the amuses were served. They were served on three silver-colored spoons with short handles for direct placement into the mouth. The colors of the items were nice. They were (1) black radish mixtur, (2) pied de porc, with nice, clear gelatin tastes, and (3) a mixture of cod. Interesting things about the table: (1) the serving of a thin crisp of siegle bread, flavored with cumin, positioned upright on a black roundish stone-like item, as well as other bread that is broken at the table, (2) ready offering of water from Aubrac, which I have to admit did not taste good at all (I adhered to wine), (3) a metallic specially designed stand on the right hand side of the diner for sauce spoon/sauce, fork and knife, and (4) the retained use of the same Laguiole knife throughout all relevant portions of the meal (this is apparently a local tradition). The gargouillou dish was gentle, but not particularly flavorful. Included were beautifully prepared, just cooked radishes, carrots, turnips, cauliflower, haricot verts, leaves, violet-colored small flowers (not thyme), green asparagus, surprisingly sweet seeds and roots of bean sprout (?) or bean. The adornments were: at the bottom, a slight hint of butter in the medium-brown jus, a strip of sweet burgundy-flavored syrup, and other items. I liked the utilization of chervil and chives in this dish, included as one item in the vegetables. The grainy seed-like items were fine. A gentle, but not particularly effective, dish. I didn’t particularly appreciate the utilization of rather cooked thin slices of jambon (not Serrano or Jabugo from Spain, likely some type of French country ham) in significant quantities in this dish. It disrupted the equilibrium inhering in the primarily vegetable composition, and was a bit stark for the rest of the dish. Admittedly, it might have been intended to confer flavor and saltiness. However, I would not have utilized this particular ingredient for such purposes. The turbot was served with rocket and garlic flower. The fish’s flesh looked a bit transparent, and tasted fine, if a bit lacking in fatty components. The garlic flower was the highlight of the fish – stronger than garlic and with a strong aftertaste in the mouth. Its stalk reminded me of the taste of a very pungent spring onion stalk. The flower was cute, almost like a bluebell, but white. Overall, I was not particularly impressed with this dish either. The foie gras was appropriate. There were orange flakes in a long stem-like pattern on the plate, and the orange sauce was fine – not too strong. The use of a single long leek stem was nice. The watercress-like item accompanying this dish was also fine. But this dish was not compelling. Then, a small cup of turnip with a strong flavoring of truffles. This was fine – nothing special. All of the above dishes were taken with the Pur Sang Pouilly Fume (90 euros). It was less developed than certain other ones I have had, being a 1998. The wine by the glass of red Languedoc I received was a nice purple in color, and, while on the simple side, was nice for the lamb as well. The lamb was very soft, nice use of acidity and bitterness from the confit lemons to highlight the softness of the lamb. There was no meaningful fat in the lamb, and this was a nice rendition. Nowhere close to being the most interesting lamb dish I have had, but a dish I enjoyed. I chose all Blue cheeses from the cart: 2 kinds of Roquefort (Societe Cave de Baragnoles, spelling, and a smaller producer), Forme d’Ambert and a Blue de Causses that was excellent. The weakness were the green apple slices I requested – they were chunks. Even with my poor cutting skills, with the Lagiole knife, I could cut each chunk into 7 thin slices for my own utilization. A poor presentation of a requested item. The strawberries were nice. The sweet sorbet like mixture was sweet in the mouth, but smelled of mushrooms on the nose. Background on Dining Room Tables are clothed in “baggy” cloth with elastic holding them down to the tables. Their legs are an angular, modern shape. The chairs are a dark grey, with weird tones of purple, and have curved legs and little decorative elements where the leather meets the wood. The table is too low for the chair, and I am unable to cross my legs the way I like while keeping them underneath the table. I am furnished a table directly looking onto the plains. It is initially very foggy, which gives wonderfully poetic effects. But I see the light turn to a medium, moderated blue as the evening wears on and finally to darkness. The darkness outside makes one concentrate on the lit room inside more. There are little white, semi-transparent screens dividing sections of generally 2 tables each, along the row that is closest to the window space. There is no division along the “back” row which is not closer to the window. Excerpts from Welcome Notebook Included in Rooms Wishing to get as close as possible to nature, we built our new home here in 1992. The buildings have all been designed around the principle of discovery and enjoyment of Aubrac. The architecture is as rigorous as the landscape and uses its own materials and rules, working with the light and plants and stones, to create a purely contemporary interpretation of our countryside. Laid out in three parts (restaurants and bedrooms) the long low buildings are laid out perpendicular to an old cattle drive which used to run between the hotel entrance and the Laguiole parish church, the local landmark. We wanted to integrate the new buildings as much as possible into the surrounding environment. The main body of the building – restaurant, reception des and lounge – has the same long low shape as a basalt column springing from the earth, massive and slanted, like a modern “buron”. The same form defines the roof, which floats over the transparency of the glass walls. This contrast between the two ends of the building reinforces the notion of a form jutting out from the ground. The restaurant looks out over the countryside, allowing the light to flood in. The lounge at the other end is glazed from floor to ceiling and feels a bit unreal. The bedrooms are based on the same principles so that all the buildings enjoy an architectdural continuity and harmony. Most of them are at ground level. A gentle hollow in the ground ensures the privacy of each room so guests feel that Aubrac is all their own. Bedrooms and bathrooms open on to the countryside thanks to the large French windows. They have been designed to let you feel in perfect harmony with nature’s scents, with the flowers, and with the songs of the birds. In these rooms, the sky is your neighbor, the garden and Aubrac your companion. The impression of space is overwhelming. From this viewpoint which we feel is magical, the everchanging Aubrac unfolds before us, delighting all our senses. This is Aubrac, a land which reassures us of the true meaning of beauty, and which defines for us the notion of what is good. Ginette, Veronique Bras and Sergio are available to advise you. . . . If you wish, they will be pleased to accompany you on a tour of the kitchen where Michel Bras, the “Chef routard” will draw a route on a map of your personal choice. He will un veil for you the wild and unsuspected beauty of Aubrac. . . . Our Environment. Over the years our sensibility has been formed by the landscape of Aubrac. Rediscovering it every day anew, little by little it reveals its mysteries, its magic and awake in us new ideas of beauty and delight. The flora, faithful offspring of the environment, reveals to the visitor the subtle harmony of this land. Even though Aubrac is often considered to be well-preserved, it is nonetheless a fragile eco-system which is increasingly being threatened. In the hotel grounds, we have planted a selection of many species. This, close at hand, you will be able to discover them. In front of your bedroom a planting of seven different varieties symbolizes the flowers of Aubrac: Violette des Sudettes, Potentille doree, Genet aile, Gentiane jaune, Oeillet des bois, Jasione perenne, Thym-serpolet. Along the ‘draille’ which guides you to your bedroom: Reine des pres, The d’Aubrac, Silene, Cistre (fenouil des Alpes) . . . in all more than 60 local species. Misc Information Special 3-day halfboard packaget for 2002, valid Tues- Friday (except in July/August). Beverages excluded. Includes double room, 3 dinners and breakfasts included, three themes (indefinable Aubrac, art and culture in Aveyron, sporting activities). Double room “Garden of Aubrac” for 2 1045 euros, for 1 734 euros. “Space of Aubrac” – for 2 1189 euros, for 1 878 euros. I rented a car from Montpellier – about a 3.5 hour drive, although Michelin indicates it is about 2 hours and 50 minutes. I noticed that Bras credited one of the dessert items on his menu (Croutes de dragees garnies de chocolate, une creme vierge (sur une idee de Jules Bressel?)a la vanille de Tahiti.

PaulaJ -- Here's a thread on the restaurant: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...hl=fleur+de+sel

Gavin -- Wilfrid has noted that The Ivy carries gulls' eggs when in season. I had called during 1Q 2002 and back then they were still anticipating receiving them this year. I have previously sampled gulls' eggs at La Tante Claire, but I doubt they are consistently available there (even when in season).

Bapi -- Did you have a chance to chat with A Roux? He usually tours the dining room. Also, did you receive information about the menus for the 30th birthday celebration? See the below thread for background: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?ac...f4fcffc3a75ab5f

I enjoyed the white Rioja; it was the first time I had sampled one.

Below is a description of Brian Bistrong from the current James Beard newsletter: Bistrong "cooked for us [beard House] just last January, showcasing the self-styled coastal cuisine that he expertly prepared at Navio, the luxe restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay. . . . After graduating from both Boston University and the CIA, he took a position at Lespinasse under Gary Kunz. Then he moved on to work for David Bouley at Bouley and Bouley Bakery, where he was named chef de cuisine. While he was at the latter, the restaurant earned a rare four stars from the New York Times." On Monday, July 8, at 7pm, Bistrong is offering a soft shell crab dinner at the Beard House. Tuna Tartare with sesame; Softshell crab tempura rolls; Softshell crab sandwiches, with Schramsberg Sparkling Blanc de Noirs NV Heirloom Tomato Terrine with Crayfish and Softshell Crab Vinaigrette, with Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc 2001 Sand Dabs and Softshell Crab with Oven-Dried Artichokes and Sparkling Reduction, Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc 2001 Bouillabaisse of Softshell Crab, with Domaine Tempier Rose Bandol 2001 Elderflower-Champagne Soup with Cherimoya Sorbet Warm Vanilla Cake with 12-Bean Vanilla Ice Cream, with Della Lippari Malvasia

Liza -- I'm not sure I'll attend. However, I noted that photos of the following chefs were included in a Beard newsletter: David Feau of Lutece, Kerry Heffernan of Eleven Madison Park, Alfred Portale of Gotham Bar and Grill, Oscar Palacios of Le Bernardin (unclear interaction with Ripert), Julian Alonzo of Brasserie 8 1/2, Neil Annis of Compass, Kiong Banh of Twenty Manning (Philly), Florian Bellanger of Fauchon NY, Dante Boccuzzi of Charlie Palmer's Aureole, Rebecca Charles of Pearl Oyster Bar, Ann Cooper of The Ross School (East Hampton), Paul Del Favero of The Madison Arms (East Hapton), Richard Farnabe of Lotus, Joseph Fortunato of The Tonic, Doug Gulija of The Plaza Cafe (Southampton), Tim Kelley of Zoe, Stephen Lyle of Village, Mauro Mafrici of i Trulli, Henry Meer of City Hall and Club Room, Don Pintabona of Tribeca Grill, Durga Prasad of Tamarind (replacement for Peter Beck; Prasad used to be tandoori chef at Tamarind), Dino Redzic of Amici Amore I (Astoria), John Reilly of Great Performance (caterer in NY), Craig Samuel of the Club Room, Claude Solliard of Seppi's and Alex Urena of Marseille. It is unclear what the involvement of the described chefs may be, or what food items might be offered at the event.

Rachel -- I would worry about interference from the tour operator, and have come up with several possible solutions. I would imagine the operator team would have to handle at least a dozen guests. When the supervisors were not looking and assuming I have secured a salmon that is close to me ... I would don rubber gloves (the dish washing kind) and hold the fish with one hand while pulling out my P Starck Laguiole dinner knife (folding version) with the other. I would use the knife to extract the flesh. If necessary, with my hands protected by the rubber gloves, I would use my hands directly as necessary.

Jaymes -- I'll provide a PM.

Jaymes -- I was thinking about a cruise one-way. Two weeks would be too lengthy a time to allocate to an Alaskan trip for me. And it is telling that the salmon catching part seems the most fascinating day excursion. I would want to take flesh from the salmon while it was *live*, and not just terminated after having been caught by me. Oh, out of curiosity, what happens if the participant in the salmon catching expeditions does not catch anything? Can one buy "live" fish?

This might have been discussed before, but did members have a chance to sample the smoked foie gras at Neat (gastonomic)? I liked it. I wonder if Neat's restaurant in Southern France has that item.

A weekend lunch I had at Pont de la Tour during 2001 in the bar area on the right-hand-side of the restaurant (when one walks in) was poor. A single lunch may not be indicative of the cuisine from the regular restaurant menu. However, I have not liked any Terance Conran restaurant visited. As Simon noted, the view of the river is nice. Neat (gastronomic) used to offer better cuisine (which does not require much, in the case of comparison to Pont de la Tour) with a comparable river view. Have members recently visited Putney Bridge?