cabrales

Below is a link to a Bonjour Paris article on Robuchon: http://www.bparis.com/newsletter1464/newsl...m?doc_id=119363 Encouragingly, Robuchon noted: “Yes [i will be cooking], and **from time to time I plan to feature some of my classics such as the gelée de caviar, the truffle tarts and the foie gras soup**”. Note that the Bonjour Paris website has certain timely and interesting articles on restaurants in France, with fairly good coverage of Paris. Speaking of Robuchon, he was one of two French judges on the Iron Chef panel for Pierre Gagnaire's battle with Sakai (French IC) in a Chateau in France -- broadcast Sunday evening on FN. The other judge was Pierre Troisgros. The battle, part of a series, was won by Gagnaire, although the decision was 2-2 (split along French-Japanese lines) by judge count. The point score count was rather decisive, with at least one of the French judges having accorded Sakai less than 15/20. The theme was homard (lobster), with each chef having been asked to seek out ingredients to complement the theme ingredient. Gagnaire procured unusual oysters, among other things, on which Robuchon commented. Gagnaire looked unusually frazzled and stressed out during the entire match. He seemed intent on moving very quickly -- to prepare six apparently complex dishes in one hour -- and his person (and his particular his hair, which seemed untidy and quirky) was almost comical. After the battle, but before the judging, Gagnaire responded that he did not think he could win. When he learned the outcome, Gagnaire noted the match had meant a great deal to him, in view of his prior IC loss in Japan. Robuchon and Troisgros were making snide comments, such as an indication Sakai's asparagus were not soft enough for the French palate, Sakai had utilized asparagus in more than one of his four dishes, etc. Robuchon accorded high praise to Gagnaire.

Hi, Chef Hawksworth I'd appreciate your thoughts on whether the possibility of continuing to receive Michelin ratings through extension of your work in Europe was a significant consideration arguing against establishing a restaurant outside of that area. If you are comfortable discussing it, in responding to the previous question, please include your thoughts on, among other things, (a) the personal significance you attribute to the prestige that affiliation with starred establishments confers, (b) the pressures that it might entail, ( c) the atmosphere in the kitchen when a person (if any) suspected to be a Michelin inspector was dining at any of the restaurants at which you worked, (d) your thoughts on whether ratings (Michelin or otherwise) are overly simplistic, and (e) the ratings (apart from Vancouver Magazine's annual listing) diners living in Vancouver emphasize.

I love it when you talk dirty, Cabrales. Steven -- I would settle for just being able to speak, in Q&A forums just like every other forum.

There is no meal cancellation fee at Lourmarin, thankfully. I wouldn't mind some of Loubet's lamb dishes, regardless of whether they are presented to me with steam effects.

Steven -- No, it'll be something more obvious, like "Eggs; Humor", which I hope some member (Wilfrid -- was that an implicit offer!) will be willing to soon put forth on the board so I won't have to use up a question. (It can be copied from the Blue Hill or other Q&As)

Robert -- While I agree with your sentiments and, based on Ducasse's cuisine, wouldn't necessarily find products based on his palate particularly attractive (the key point), perhaps there is only one brand of each type of product because, as a marketing matter, it signals to the consumer that Ducasse put some thought into the selection of the brand/producer. Also, I don't know how small the store will be. If there is to be an oven for bread and room (albeit standing) for 20 people and additional space for "restaurant" personnel, perhaps 250 products can only be stored in a limited amount of space? Perhaps Ducasse is intending to make this a chain if the first store is successful?

Excel has significant macro capabilities that could be tapped in the event more complex lines of analysis were required. As jordyn noted, the above is predicated on the formula he provided.

The NYT ran an article within the past week on the effects of the cigarette tax increase on smokers' habits. Perhaps Bloomberg could increase the cigarette tax even more under a dual-pronged approach to combat smoking.

Nina -- Yes. Perhaps we could try the AZ and the BP sea urchin dishes during the same evening by sharing the BP dish and then having the sea urchin dish at the AZ bar area, later this year.

I prime example of the preparation is the challenger's prop used in the Girls' Festival show recently shown/reshown on FN. There was no theme produce, with wider flexibility accorded to the chefs. However, the competitor procured a prop of a doll made by his own daughter?!

Here is richie's report on a recent meal at Ouest: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?ac...b82b7de6acd31d8 Separately, I noted a preview of Ouest's Fall/Winter menu in the July/August 2002 edition of Food Arts. Chef Hawksworth notes: "One of the most exciting things about being in British Columbia is the abundance of locally foraged wild mushrooms. One of my favorites is the pine mushroom, with its wonderfully pungent flavor. Most end up in Japan, where they're very sought after, but I always manage to get my hands on a few. I'm also a big fan of the sweet sugar pumpkins that grow close by in the Okanagen Valley. I use them in a ravioli with mostarda di frutta, Parmesan, crushed amaretti biscuits, and sage." Menu items coming up include: Roasted Weathervane Scallops with Cilantro Sauce and Candied Ginger Tortellini of Duck Confit and Pine Mushrooms -- This sounds good "For th filling, combine duck confit with sauteed pine mushrooms, parsley, tarragon, chives, pureed chicken breast meat, egg and a touch of cream. Shape ravioli into tortellini. Blanch to order. Serve with grilled pine mushrooms and a froth of pine mushroom veloute." Venison with Braised Celery & Chestnuts with Celery Root Puree Braised Oxtail with Honey Roasted Root Vegetables & Cabernet Sauvignon Sauce Chocolate Cadeau Pineapple/Black Pepper Tarte Tatin

In the July/August 2002 edition of Food Arts, ther eis a report that Perrier is modifying the design of LBF. "He's going slightly [!] more modern -- from Louis XVI period to turn-of-the-century French. The tony place will be closed during August for renovation. Perrier also recently lost [different connotation from fired!] Frederic Cotes and plans to replace him in the fall."

In the July/August 2002 edition of Food Arts (Fall/Winter Menu Preview), there is a description of Anita Lo (Annisa)'s entree of Chatham Sea Scallops with Maine Sea Urchin, Bacon and Mustard [Greens?] Ragout. Here is Lo's description: "For the ragout, start with a beurre fondue composed of lobster stock and butter. Add sea urchin roe, lardons and Chinese mustard greens. Simmer and add lemon juice and chives at the end. Saute sea scallops and serve with the ragout and a loose potato puree made from German butterballs or fingerlins and lots of butter." This dish, I hope, will be in my tummy during 3Q 2002

In the July/August 2002 edition of Food Arts, there is a report that litigation is ongoing between two-starred Philippe Gauvreau of La Tortone, Charbonniere-Les-Bains, and his former sous-chef Frank Ferigutti. Apparently, Gauvreau is unhappy that Ferigutti, now at Le Chapon Fin, Bordeaux, appears to be utilizing ideas from the former's menu.

I'd appreciate any available input on Atelier. In the July/August 2002 edition of Food Arts, there are indications that pastry chef Jean-Francois Bonnet, formerly of Cello, is now at Atelier. The update describes Bonnet's signature dessert of peanut butter ice cream with rice krispies, chocolate leaves and condensed milk cappuccino.

The July/August 2002 edition of Food Arts reports the following: "Ducasse ... this fall he initiates Boulangerie-Epicerie, to be known as BE, in partnership with the well-known Paris baker Eric Kayser. The plan is to offer Ducasse-quality sandwiches with bread made in an oven dominating the center of the restaurant. In addition, there will be a range of about 250 gastronomic grocery products, each selected by Ducasse. The twist will be that only one of each item will be offered, but each will be the best available for the season, according to Ducasse's palate. Eating on the premises will be limited to 20 stand-up spots, so the bulk of the revenue is to come from takeout, a MCDucasse as it were."

Junior -- That's a very interesting question I have wondered about. Is it a "free for all", or are one of the ingredients from the original potential list looked to?

I assume members know that Iron Chef's "secret" ingredient for each episode is not necessarily a surprise to the IC or the challenger. Each is given, I believe, approx. three potential secret ingredients, and has a significant period of time prior to the battle to consider possible dishes. Apologies if this fact is already known to members.

Fresh received two stars in an overall rather favorable review from E Asimov (with a little line "William Grimes is on leave"). After describing the fish cheeks appetizer and a change in the presentation format of the menu, Asimov notes "Fresh rises and falls on Mr. Burge's more personally expressive dishes". He observes that Burge "treats pieces of fish like meat", citing a "roasted prime rib of swordfish dish and Kobe toro. Overall, Asimov liked the food, although he did, as johnjohn noted, critize the service. Interestingly, both Burge and fellow Gotham alum, pastry chef Joseph Murphy, are indicated to be part owners of Fresh.

lizziee -- Thanks.

southern girl -- The $105 was per person, which suggests that wine had been ordered.

I was among the participants in last night's dinner -- a gathering to spend time with UK-based eGulleteer Blind Lemon Higgins (who I hope wouldn't mind my mention of his attendance). :laugh: The meal was good-plus, having been rendered more appealing by a smoked and roasted chicken dish that was tender and flavorful (of chicken). I should note that I have not historically been particularly apprecative of Boulud's style of cuisine; however, I did appreciate my meal at Cafe Boulud last night. The meal: (1) Amuses. Two amuses were each served on a white ceramic Chinese-style soup spoon, like at Troisgros in Roanne and at Radius in Boston. They were (1) shrimp section with cucumber, and (2) asparagus with a bit of almond and a creamy background sauce. The third amuse was a little metal fork holding serrano ham enveloping a limited amount of fig puree. The forks were served on a long cucumber for visual appeal. An appropriate start to the meal. The table shared a bottle of Cuvee Daniel champagne (around $65), following by a bottle each of white and red, respectively, before the dessert wine. (2) Marinated Heirloom Tomato Salad, Ricotta Salata, Focaccia, Shallot Dressing ($18). The included tomatoes were confirmed by a dining room team member to have been furnished by Tim Stark. I thought the preparation was simpler (not in a negative way) than most heirloom renditions I have had lately (and I have been ordering them whereever I have seen them and sometimes have visited a restaurant in part for them). An average-plus dish, with thin amounts of ricotta nicely utilized -- really a sampling of tomatoes. (3) Smoked and Roasted Amish Chicken, Roasted New Potatoes, Marinated Pole Beans, Tomato Emulsion ($30). This dish was very good (using NY standards to be clear). The chicken slices were moist and tender and imbued with an appropriate amount of smokiness. An appealing emulsion sauce that had a good amount of stock and a limited utilization (in a good way) of tomatoes to enhance the stock. A tasty, non-heavy dish. (4) Churros: Duo of Dipping Sauces (Chocolate-Cinammon and Chocolate-Coffee) with Orange Ice Cream ($12; table shared a 500 ml bottle of Coteaux du Layon Selection de Grains nobles, P Delesvaux 1997, $89). The current temporary theme at Cafe Boulud is Mexican cuisine, and my dessert of four short-ish churros was in keeping with that. While warm,the churros did not taste as though they had been deep-fried just the previous instant, the way that longer churros sticks at Chicama had (served with Cafe Con Leche dipping sauce and chocolate sauce). The orange ice cream was alright, although the Saffron Scented Honey ice cream in BLH's dessert of Geogria Peach Soup with that ice cream and fresh nectarine was better. Overall, I would return to Cafe Boulud. The service was generally good. One aspect of the restaurant's hospitality went considerably beyond that. Executive chef Andrew Carmellini was most welcoming, and furnished a wonderful kitchen tour lasting quite a while to the dining party. It was too bad Wilfrid and Beloved had to return home to take care of their baby around the time the tour was conducted.

Rosie -- If the price is $45 for the prix fixe lunch, the price reflects a $10 increase over the $35 I paid as recently as 2 months ago.

Robert -- Appreciating that this follow-up is arguably tangential, are you saying only that an infrequent diner at a given restaurant should have the same general *quality level* of food and service as the "regular", with which I might agree? Or are you saying that the infrequent visitor should also have the same access to off-menu items, extra dishes and other special treatment that the restaurant may choose to accord to regular diners -- an outcome that may be unrealistic to expect, in my mind.

Steven -- If you are comfortable discussing it and believe food4thought to not mind your response, why is food4thought on the program? Does he work in the restaurant field?