cabrales

Matthew -- No; I probably just chatted with the dining room team members more.

I've had very good meals at Lourmarin. Better than any meal, subjectively, than I have had at Veyrat with respect to cuisine only. The utilization of "forgotten" vegetables, less common herbs from the locality and flowers is patterned after Loubet's mentor, Veyrat, but better-executed. Interesting use of bitterness, including in almond relatives and other herbs. The restaurant is worth the drive from Aix, and is, based on my experiences, among the strongest places in the South. I happen to believe that, together with Lorain and Roellinger (I have not yet sampled the latter's cuisine), Loubet is a strong two-star within France with respect to the crucial dimension of cuisine.

Matthew -- I agree the rooms are worthwhile. I like the cuisine at WI, and believe (leaving aside the Alain adjustments, on which I have not reached any conclusions pending a sampling of them) that the cuisine merits three stars. GR RHR remains my favorite restaurant in the UK, but I will be making a stop in London in the forseeable future specifically to sample the limited time Menu of Reflection. Note one way to cut down the expense of accommodations in Bray, for diners who do not mind long lunches, is to have that Menu of Reflection during a weekend lunch and then return to London before nightfall. I will be doing that, primarily because I have to travel elsewhere the next day and do not wish to wake up as early as would be required from Bray. I still have not received the Menu of Reflection's contents. However, I guess it will contain the signature lobster with port wine and perhaps a souffle (perhaps of the flavor served to the queen on one of her birthdays).

Wimpy -- Thanks for the report. It sounds like you did not order the Victor Hugo menu at Jung's.

Leslie -- Note that Cello recently announced its closure, as reported by Bux. See the NY forum.

I'd appreciate members' input on Maxim's in Paris. While I appreciate that the level of the cuisine there today may not be particularly attractive, the restaurant has so much history that I am contemplating a visit sooner or later. Insight into what dishes are relatively acceptable would be appreciated.

I'm not too familiar with Papaya hot dogs (or hot dogs in general). However, can they be so "bursting" that they split lengthwise along a seam?

Here is TimeOut's description of the trimmings for the EM hot dog: "check out the fixings: fresh tomatoes, onions, green peppers, lettuce, relish, cucumbers and pickled chili peppers in addition to the requisite ketchup and mustard." (Not connotations with respect to Papaya) http://www.timeoutny.com/features/347/347....iticspick3.html

Is it possible some purchasers of hot dogs might be deriving satisfaction (not necessarily representing the price difference) from the Danny Meyer and Eleven Madison name? I'd have to say that, while I wouldn't attribute value to the name per se, at the regular sidewalk vendor (non-Papaya, obviously), I would be worried about proper maintenance of sanitary standards, etc. At least with the EM cart, one could have some assurance that the food is carefully kept and prepared.

Billy D -- With all respect, might it be useful to have sampled the Eleven Madison hot dog (at least on one occasion) before arriving at a *definitive conclusion* regarding its culinary merits, and the appropriateness of its price, relative to the "average" NY hot dog stand or even Papaya? Note I have not yet sampled an EM hot dog.

grillboy -- Please consider confirming with Eleven Madison the cart's availability prior to making the trip.

I received a glossy 64-page WI magazine today, released in connection with the 30th anniversary celebrations. The letter accompanying the magazine notes, among other things: "We have had many young chefs passing through our kitchen over the years but only 4 Head Chefs in 30 years! When we gathered together recently, there were 8 Michelin stars between us!" The four are Mark Dodson of Cliveden (*), Christian Germain of Chateau de Montreuil (*), of course Pierre Koffman of La Tante Claire (**, formerly ***) and Michel Perraud of Fleur de Sel in the UK (*). One of the articles describes a December 2001 lunch gathering of this group with Michel Roux (Sr.), Alain and the current WI head chef Russell Holborn. Another interesting article describes some of the new recipes emanating from WI since Alain Roux became entrenched as chef-patron. Entitled "Plus Ca Change...", the article notes: "The first Alain creation calls itself minestrone printanier aux petits coquillages -- spring minestrone with delicate shellfish. This came with (very English) cockles and winkles and (rather Italian) bold pesto ravioli to give it a delicately spicy Mediterranean flavor . . . . sauteed baby snails, which were served on a bed of morels and lardons of bacon over a celeriac base in parsley puree and a light Madeira jus, topped with a puff pastry cap [Alain, like Michel, also trained as a patissier] . . . .What about something new with scallops? Take some sliced baby artichokes, infused with honey, orange and lemon; place on a bed of wilted rocket leaves, roast the scallops and place on top, and sprinkle with fresh crab. . . . And how can you revitalise salmon? Well how about cooking it en papillote with pine needles and serving it with deep-fried pak choi and a star anise sauce? Do we detect a hint of Asian fusion here -- something for which Michel has shown scant regard in the past? Alain disagrees . . . . Alain has taken breasts of Bresse pigeon and quail and served them on a bed of crushed potatoes and cabbage, served with a lime jus: the freshness of the citrus-based sauce serves to emphasize the rich, almost gamey savouriness of the birds. . . . Alain has also turned his hand to his father's favorite discipline -- desserts -- although once again in a **creative and (dare one suggest it?) rahter 'off-the-wall' style** [that's for sure]. . . . ." Furthermore, there is the following observation (apparently accurate, based on the description of some of Alain's dishes): "Alain . . . like all sons, immediately wanted to begin stamping his own individuality on a legendary menu created by his father. . . But the main fact is that, even as the chain of command has evolved and changed, the quality and attention to detail in both kitchen and front-of-house have been maintained and those three stars burn as brightly as ever. Indeed, in addition we may be seeing the fulfilment of another prophecy (with apologies to Ernest Hemingway): 'The Son Also Rises.' . . . Plus c'est la meme chose [The more it's the same thing, translated; a reference to the greater the change, the more it's the same thing] Change is obviously about at WI. Based on past meals at WI following Alain's becoming the chef-patron, Alain is capable of the nice classicism inherent in his father's cuisine. His new creations appear, shall we say, rather distinct from his father's dishes.

Felonius -- When you have a chance and if you recollect, could you discuss CB's winelist, including any other particularly interesting or reasonably priced selections that you may have uncovered?

Below is a link to a description of certain Childs-related events: http://www.aiwf.org/national/index.asp?chapter=1 Planned activities include (I assume the AIWF would not mind the relatively large amount of text copied/excerpted, in the interests of promoting the Childs festivities; see the above site for additional details; attendance may be limited and require pre-booking): Sunday, August 18 • Tour of Dupont Circle’s FRESHFARM Markets. • **Brunch at Gabriel restaurant** . . . . 12:30 p.m. to 3 00 p m. • Opening of the exhibition Bon Appetit! Julia Child’s Kitchen at the Smithsonian at the National Museum of American History, Behring Center, at 7:00 p. m. **Sample the foods of National Capital Area Chapter chefs** . . . National Museum of American History, 14th and Constitution Avenue, NW, Washington, DC, 7:00p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Monday, August 19 • Birthday celebration dinner at 6: 30 p. m. at **1789 restaurant**. . . . 1789, 1226 36th Street, NW, Georgetown, 6:30 p. m. to 9:30 p. m. Tuesday, August 20 • Sur La Table, at Pentagon Row, for a book signing of the fortieth anniversary edition of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. 1., with Julia Child. . . . Arlington, VA, 10:30 am to noon. Call 703-414-3580 for more information. • BIRTHDAY PARTY at the **Four Seasons Hotel** at 6: 30 p. m. with simply the best summer food, including cheeseburgers, 6: 30 p. m. to 9: 30 p. m.

Leslie -- Your book mentions Daniel's "Skybox". How would a "non-soigne" diner go about obtaining a meal in the Skybox, if that is possible?

I'd appreciate members' input on whether another of Senderens' signature dishes, the lobster with vanilla creation, is worth sampling.

Leslie -- For purposes of a "happy ending" to your book, were you hoping for Daniel's receipt of a fourth star in a timely manner relative to its intended publication date? I appreciate that your having spent considerable time with people from the restaurant may have led you to separately hope for the restaurant's receipt of a fourth star. Do you believe that marketing efforts for your book would have been adversely affected, had Daniel not received (or not timely received) the fourth star?

Here are some other interesting Beard dinners -- September 28, Ron Siegel of Masa; October 2, Morimoto; October 21 -- Winemaker Dinner, Christian Delouvrier of Lespinasse, working with Deutz champagne.

Malawry -- When you have a chance, could you consider discussing when the dinner will be, and what the cost of participation might be (particularly if it is on a Saturday evening)?

An older article (Independent, June 23, 2002) indicated the following, regarding Sketch: "It sounds madly, joyfully, overly ambitious but fun, with a 150-seat brasserie, two bars, a grand tea room (love it) and video art gallery, as well as a 70-seat restaurant under the innovative Gagnaire." And another (Time Out, May 15, 2002; Fiona Sims on Sketch, sibling to Momo and London's biggest restaurant-bar complex): "[O]perations director Michael Helling. . . . As well as the GBP 125-per-head fine dining restaurant called the **Lecture Room and Library,** there will be a 150-seat brasseriestyle restaurant called the Gallery, which will transform into a video art gallery by day; two bars [called East and West]; and a space called **The Parlour** that's a twist on a grand tearoom. We're talking 27,000 square feet. . . . [P]astry chef Annabelle Levrard is in place in the Parlour, with Simon Robinson behind the bar and Fabrice Reggiani lining up for maitre d'. Meanwhile **executive chef Gregoire Sein** and head chef of the Lecture Room and Library, **Pascal Sanchez** (both Gagnaire boys) . . . . The Gallery will be open from 7-11pm and will have a more palatable average spend of around GBP 35 a head. After service, it becomes a lounge bar (open until 2am) with resident DJs and a separate entrance for private members . . . . Or there's The Parlour, a 'mad take' on a Victorian parlour, which will serve tea, as well as breakfast and light lunches from GBP 15 a head . . . A final word about the design. Here's a taster: 'pod' loos designed by an Isle of Wight boat-builder; original 1970s bar furniture; Tomokil banquette-seating that transforms into chaise-longues when the music cranks up; Marc Newson-designed starter trolleys, dimsum style; a communal 'snake' table." Sounds horrid.

Whether food is better than what it used to be depends, among other things, on whether one's subjective preferences are better matched to food today. In particular, for restaurants, to the extent the ones a diner most appreciates did not used to exist, say, twenty years ago, one might easily conclude that food is better today. Obviously, it's useful to have been an adult twenty years ago to compare the food prevalent at that time relative to the food today.

Malawry -- How many diners were served during the Childs celebration dinner? Were some of the auctioned items special meals at participating restaurants, etc.? In addition, did you happen to learn about Childs celebration events that are planned for New York? Any input from other members would also be appreciated.

The current edition of Gourmet magazine has an article on Jewel Bako. Included is a description of pike eel: "One evening, there is a perfect early summer dish of hamo, the elusive pike eel that is a seasonal specialty of Western Japan, a firm-fleshed fish --which looks a little like a peony [?] when the many, many fine bones have been coaxed out of it with a knife . . . ."

Below is an update from TopTable regarding certain Embassy promotions through September 5: "Embassy, London W1 (Mayfair) - Glamour and luxury are the key words at this stylish restaurant in Mayfair. Exclusively to toptable, receive 25% off lunch and dinner Monday - Friday and get complimentary entry into the members lounge after dinner (lounge not open on Mondays). Offer ends 5th September. Click here for more info and bookings: http://www.toptable.co.uk/details.cfm?rcode=B337" http://www.toptable.co.uk/Details.cfm?rcode=B337 Note that booking through TopTable.com may be required. The offer is not specific as to whether the 25% discount is only in respect of food (?).