cabrales

Again technically corrupt attempts: There was once a man named Plotnicki 'No ostrich egg', said he, 'too sticky' Haut Brion and Lafite This man daily do greet 'With French wine, I'm not too picky' There was once a sage called Wilfrid 'A guinea pig right now,' he said 'Give me, ooh, a small bird I cannot take bean curd Rare rodents, for 'er I put to bed'

Wilfrid & Tony -- Like my prior contribution, the effort below is technically problematic, but here goes: There was an Aussie called Balic Who simmers wild boar in sauces rich He has a PHD And writes for all, you see Stupendous posts without a glitch

Steve -- I don't disagree that Nobu might have been willing to experiment, but why do certain French chefs have to experiment drastically if what they have is already widely sought after and considered very good? Also, in pointing out the potential Japanese ingredient or Japanese cuisine inspirations of some signature Nobu dishes, I was trying to pursue whether the experimental "leap" might have been more natural for Matsuhisa, given his background and training, than it might have been for a traditionally trained French chef. Meaning, I do think leading French chefs experiment, but, for their background and sensitivities, they are less likely to have come up with Nobu's signature dishes. You might view Nobu as "jumping" into the water, given your appreciation of French food and background. For him, the steps might have been less drastic. I am not saying they were or not; just that one could imagine they might have been. That Nobu's black cod miso was less of an experimental leap for him, given his background, than for a French chef is supported by Jeffrey Steingarten's article "Nobu's No-No" (US Vogue, March 2002): "Nobu marinated it for three days in a special miso -- the tangy, sometimes sweet, paste of long-fermented soybeans and rice or barley -- then broiled it for cirspiness and roasted it to finish. A twist on the traditional Japanese veresion, which is marinated in the lees (or sediment) from the brewing of sake . . . ." The article describes Nobu's use of monkfish liver in a manner that supports the above point: "We happily went on to a pate made from the liver of the monkfish -- a traditional Japanese recipe transformed by the salty, oily pop of salmon roe." The obvious Japanese inspiration relating to the choice and preparation of raw fish is described, among other things, in the context of the influence of Nobu's travels on his preparation methods: "Nobu's raw-fish dishes were powerfully flavored with cilantro, red-pepper paste, olive oil, and fresh chilies. These are ingredients that Nobu . . . had discovered during a three-year sojourn working in Peru -- where raw fish (used in pungent ceviche and tiradito) is as common as in Japan." (Nobu also has some Peruvian-inspired meat preparations.)

Wilfrid -- Yes. Or, alternatively, people as comfortable speaking French as they would English.

Are there any bistros where the dining room team is as comfortable (or more) speaking French?

ajay -- L'Astrance will be one of the two best meals of your trip. On the Georges Blanc bistro, I have been to Le Splendide. It's inexpensive, but only offers one Bresse chicken entree -- it's cooked with cream, and similar to what is offered at the pink-colored house (it's another Blanc bistro-like place) on the right-hand-side of Vonnas' square when one is standing outside the main Georges Blanc house. You won't get the G7 Bresse chicken preparation (with foie gras and roasted garlic) or the 2-person "gross sel" (salt-related; ?) preparation you could find at the gastronomic restaurant. Le Splendide also does not have the Crepes Vonnasienne (sic) (blini-like items that can be ordered with the chicken in Vonnas). I have never been a big fan of Georges Blanc, even at his gastronomic restaurant. See Steve P's write-up on his year in food (I think?) However, Le Splendide is at least better than the Bocuse bistros, and does offer a good value-to-price ratio. I am myself hoping to have Bresse chicken at La Mere Brazier, despite its loss of its single star. To have the chicken in half-mourning dish (limited truffle slices between skin and meat) at its place of creation would be something else. I have also not yet sampled the food at bouchons.

You identified the right ingredient in a previous post. The color lifted my spirits even higher when I saw this dish presented.

Here's my contribution (with obvious technical flaws, if evaluated by poetry standards): There once was a community called eGullet Or A Balic-land, one could better call-it Where chicken took on aspects perverse Where the three Steves put forth ample verse "Oui", said Steve P, "c'est rouget" -- not red mullet

Stu -- Fleur d'oranger is orange flower blossom. (At certain developed places where one can get infusion drinks in Paris, it's better than verbena.) I had this dish -- it was stunning in taste, with brilliant color effects to appeal to the visual senses as well. BTW, to quote another member's post so it shows up in a box in your post, go to that member's post and click on the "Quote" botton on the upper right hand side of the post. You can then edit out parts of the quoted post you do not need. Your own post is typed separately. Of course, this procedure is only if you want to quote in the conventional way. I kind of like the way you quote, and am unable to navigate certain technical aspects of this site (e.g., link to another thread).

Yvonne -- You mean the locking wouldn't inhibit freedom of expression?! (tutti fruitti -- As a fan of Yvonne, you no doubt have the full context for that reference) circeplum & Gavin Jones -- Thanks for posting in this thread too

Steve Klc -- The maitre d's English is good. There would be no problems for non-French speakers. I speak fluent French, but have heard him describe dishes in detail to adjacent English-speaking diners. On the relative sizes of each dish, I would say that the Hiramatsu dishes were only slightly larger (if at all) than those at L'Astrance. L'Astrance is the way to go for too, too many reasons

Stu -- That was an outstanding dish, with the Camembert effect quite prominent on the nose, but very suppressed (almost non-existent) in the mouth (where the oyster tastes and textures dazzled). What was your assessment of the dish?

tutti frutti -- If you are comfortable discussing it, how would Yvonne know that -- perhaps she recommended the board to you after reviewing certain Steven Shaw threads?

Stu -- Thanks for your feedback. I'll try to include prices (at least sans wine) from now on, except in situations where they might lead members to think I am decadent The prices for Hiramatsu were included in the provided link to the sample menu. The tasting menu, containing four courses, is listed at the bottom of that at 92 euros. On L'Astrance, I could not speak more enthusiastically about its prices, and, wholly apart from prices, its cuisine. See, e.g., "Gault Millau 2002 Guide France" under this forum for more on L'Astrance (G-M notes L'Astrance provides haute cuisine at bistro prices). Is the Menu de Saison the one that has dishes listed on the menu? Note that the price of the L'Astrance all-surprise menu (I think it's called Menu L'Astrance) is slightly higher (relatively; but, in absolute terms, marvellous) than the price of the Menu de Saison. The all-surprise menu price also varies slightly between lunch and dinner.

By the way, which cutlery utensil(s) do members think would work best with the English meat pie? Although probably not available at most places that would offer the same, my vote would be for fork + sauce spoon (the latter for piercing the lid).

Jinmyo -- A "fully encased" standard seems pretty stringent. On the lid vs. bottom portion point, a lid without a bottom could under certain circumstances (assuming the lid's edges adhere to the plate sufficiently) allow for the "gush" of often heady aromas released when the lid is pierced with the diner's utensils. This is the same effect as that from many pies. The sauce-meets-pastry effects, which I agree are important, might not be as pronounced when there is only a lid, but they are not entirely precluded. I'd like to make the case that a bottom portion only pastry can support a pie (like pizza, although, for me, that should probably not be deemed a pie, at least if it's thin crust). Why can't stewed or other meats inside a pastry shell bottom with elevated borders be a pie? Are there well-known dishes like this? Finally, note that, if encasement in pastry is the definition of pie, then a handsome French dish called "truffe en croute" (truffle in pastry) would also be a pie. I had this at Boyer Les Crayeres, Rheims. Here's how Charlie Trotter describes the truffle "golf ball": "The entree was pretty overwhelming: truffle en croute. Eating it is the most heady, sensual experience. People who have never had it just swoon! They take the whole black truffle, and foie gras, and cut it up into tiny slices, wrap it in puff pastry and roast it in the oven. It's slightly bigger than a golf ball. You cut into it and the first smell is unbelieveable! It costs $100 a person. After all, we're here to indulge a little bit." http://metromix.com/top....00.html Steven Shaw also notes this special dish: "And should you have the resources and the sense of humor, the dramatic climax of a meal at Les Crayeres is the whole black truffle baked in a pastry crust and smothered in truffle sauce." http://www.fat-guy.com/article/view/88 I had a similar dish at Bruno at Terre des Truffes in Nice, with the accent of smoked bacon-like pork: La truffe en feuillete au foie gras, poitrine fumme, Tuber Melanosporum (truffe en croute with black truffle) (For other dishes in two relatively reasonably priced, all-truffle meals, see "Restaurants With Rooms" in "France"). I also had a truffe en croute dish at Loubet's at Le Moulin de Lourmarin. The previous sampled items were all in the shape of a ball (not necessarily perfectly round, but a discernible ball). I sampled a "feuillete" with black truffles and foie gras at L'Ambroisie. It was not round, but a semi-circular or circular shape with ridged edges (like a giant potsticker of puff pastry), and its bottom portion lay quite "flat". I can't remember. Should the above truffle dishes be considered pies?

Tony -- Thanks! Alas, my plans for travelling this weekend might be foiled by work constraints (and I had Roellinger booked too :confused:). If I stay in town, I might try one of the pie places you mentioned. Rules' sample menu offers: Steak & Kidney Pie with Mashed Potato & Root Vegetable Purée, and Fish & Shellfish Pie with Saffron, Cream and Colcannon Potatoes. http://www.rules.co.uk/rest/mfmenu.html (I just noticed a post-theatre special, 10pm - 11:30pm, weeknights, perfect given current work demands, at £19.95.) I also note the indicated limited availability, from time to time, of Belted Galloway Beef. It is described as a "rare and ancient breed raised on Wild Hill Farming Grasslands". Have members sampled this type of beef?

Adam -- Perhaps for purposes of this thread the contours of meat pies could be attempted first, although dessert and other pies are promising too. I wonder what interesting regional/local variations of chicken pot pie there might be, and where good places to sample this item in London are. Could you discuss why you might view a gratin with breadcrumbs on top as a pie? When breadcrumbs are used, they might have to be used with some "density", concentration or "packing" for there to be a pie?? For example, they couldn't be just sprinkled? But I agree that the usage of the pastry (or other) material as a covering on top of the meat, etc. only could be a pie.

Adam -- I don't know much about English meat pies, but for a pie to be a pie, I would imagine the meat or other principal ingredient should at least be in the shell of pastry. Perhaps not necessarily "enclosed in" the pastry, although that might ordinarily be expected. But at least the meat, etc. should be lodged on pastry and there should be a little rim of the pastry that extends upwards, no?

I'd appreciate input from members as to good places in London to sample English game pie. I have sampled it no more than once or twice. Is it ordinarily served with gravy or some other type of sauce? (On Taillevent, I agree and do not think Vrinat deserves three stars.)

At least sometimes, Taillevent offers game pie. During at least certain portions of 4Q 2001, it was wild duck or pheasant, I believe (?) -- I had a bite from a friend's plate and thought I should have ordered it. Can other members provide details? Below are certain descriptions: http://www.cigaraficionado.com/Cigar/Afici...avel/rc695.html ("At Taillevent, wild game, lamb, beef, farm-raised guinea fowl, andouillette (a form of sausage), duck and foie gras are all available as main courses. I heartily recommend Taillevent's take on shepherd's pie--a golden-crusted torte filled with wild game including boar, pheasant, venison and pigeon lightly doused with Armagnac--called Tourte de Gibier de Sologne à l'Armagnac.") http://www.france.com/francescape/gault/restparis.html ("Still, the classic repertoire provides pleasures of its own: why turn down a chance to savor the rich, resonant flavors of a truffled game pie filled with venison, duck and pheasant?")

Geoduck is wonderful, and, interestingly enough despite my non-existent cooking skills, is one of the things I have dreamed about preparing for myself. One could just slice them and dip them in boiling bouillon as earlier described, or highlight them in a simple stir-fry with garlic and butter. I have never tried to catch one, though. How fast do they get when motivated to escape? Are they smart enough to try and escape?

Steven -- I will, but I'd have to admit it will be motivated in part by a desire to get the curry and mussel dish Steve Klc talked about (and I'll use Steve Klc's suggested approach too). I particularly liked the "discover my landscapes" part of the opening page. The colors -- the shadow of night, the gradations of purple in the daytime sky, the barren tree limbs against expanses of water. . . . There's even a picture later in the slide show of pretty plump-looking lamb (they don't look like young lamb) ??

Steve Klc & Bux -- This discussion has spurred me to look at Roellinger's website. Many of the things you mentioned are still on the sample a la carte menu, at a minimum! "Petit homard cuit à la commande aux saveurs de "l'île aux épices" (for 2 people, though) (Small lobster with flavors of 'spice island') "Le classique : Saint Pierre 'retour des Indes' (hommage au Malouin de La Bourdonnais)." (The classic: John Dory 'return to Indies', an hommage to Malouin of La Bourdonnais) There's lamb, but no indication of whether it is agneau pre-sale, and also the kouign ammann that Bux first described to me recently: "Agneau parfaitement identifié et sélectionné : Selle rôtie à la broche, 'épices grande caravane'" (Lamb perfectly selected: saddle roasted on a skewer, 'grand caravan' spices) "Un fin kouign-ammann aux poires pour un 'songe de nuit'" (A kouign-ammann with pears as a lullaby) The most comprehensive prix fixe menu described on the website (called "Image of Saint Malo") includes the lobster and the lamb http://maisons-de-bricourt.com/anglais/index.htm

Well, after a disastrous meal at Empire Restaurant (see upcoming post under "Cobra and Chocolate Scorpions" thread in this forum), I had not eaten much, so proceeded to locanda locatelli. The service was, as Jay and Scott reported, inconsistent. (The captain-level personnel were friendly and proficient, but certain below them lacked where-with-all). My bill before tips was 34 pounds because the glass of wine I ordered (yes, French wine is the best in my book and I can be very restrained when it is not meaningfully represented) arrived with the third course (and only when I followed up). :confused: At least the glass was not charged. Interestingly, when I arrived, Ramsay was sitting there chatting in an animated manner with Locatelli. As I've said before, not relevant because it's Ramsay's food that speaks eloquently (albeit not at the #2-in-the-world level). I ordered three appetizers plus dessert: -- Savoy cabbage filled with pork sausages with saffran risotto (6 pounds): This dish attracted my attention because one of my first three-star experiences in France was Senderens' larger cabbage parcels enclosing large slices of foie gras. At Locatelli, the cabbage parcels were flavorful and smaller, with the diced, emolient sausage bringing connotations of "country" and fattiness into play. The risotto was less to my liking, as it had been cooked, made into two diamond-shaped items and then pan-fried. A captain noted it was a recipe from Milan. Overall, the cabbage worked -- nicely sauced too. -- Minestrone with langoustines (10 pounds): This vegetable soup was bland, despite the utilization of some langoustine stock (unusual in a minestrone) and the addition of two, smallish, decently prepared langoustines. The soup was also laden with too many vegetables (incl. brocoli, carrots, haricot beans, peas, spinach, fava-type beans, onions) when presented to the diner. These might have been appropriate ingredients in the cooking, but the sheer volume in the bowl led to too much complexity in the dish (a strong pet peeve for me). For me, this dish was poor. -- Home-made abruzzo style sphaghetti with fresh tuna bolognaise (9 pounds): A nice rendition, with good pasta elements and little meatballs of dense tuna that could easily have passed for veal when flavored (including with respect to texture). The surrounding crushed tomatoes and tomato sauce, with appropriately robust parsley elements, added to the dish. A minor complaint would be that the dish, despite the tuna balls and the parsley, had a certain monotony to it because of the simple (nicely simple) preparation of the tomatoes. -- Milk ice and jasmin ice cream: This is a combination of the ice cream elements from two desserts, which the restaurant was happy to provide. The milk portion tasted like vanilla, and was nothing special. The jasmin reeked of mint, and was overpowering. Overall, quite good food (with Zafferano, probably one of the two best Italian restaurants in London, with all due respect to Assaggi); uneven service. (As background, note I do not generally choose Italian food except at Babbo.) Decor was too beige, although the large mirror-type devices and the use of texture (e.g., dots on the yellow/beige banquettes, lines in wood) did offset that to a limited extent.