chuck

Whoa, there. I had a hell of a good experience at Genoa, but the whole situation there is a little kooky. The door opens into the dining room (a dining room without dividers, planters, or nothin', just one big room) and everyone looks at you as you enter. Not a big deal, but Portland is the place where cableknit sweaters are dress-up, and an inspection upon entering is a little disconcerting. We insisted on having a drink in the lounge area, a back room with no windows (come to think of it, the restaurant doesn't have any windows) and David Lynch decor. Then on to a meal with great highs and a few lows sitting next to trysting couples trying to whisper without the benifit of background music. I spent concious moments trying not to listen, which led to awkward silences all around. "So, what do you think about...stuff?" The evening ended with an involved conversation with our waiter, a really great guy, who, unfortunately, had the job of describing in excruciating detail every dish that he set in front of every diner in the place. On the other hand, he did recommend a fabulous bottle of wine for $40 less than I was willing to spend. I loved the place, but it is a little odd don't you think?

Used to be Kokeb. Do you think that the neighborhood will support a restaurant that will obviously be of such high caliber? I wonder what the prices will be. That's an odd strip on 12th. If they have a good bar I will definitely show up to have a drink, but so will a lot of other people who might not impress a "Food and Wine" Best New Chef. College kids from the dorms across the street, people wandering down from the sketchy part of Capital Hill. At this point in the economy, any business is good business I suppose. I guess there's plenty of street parking...

Took a trip to Portland a couple of weeks ago. Ate at Genoa (good food but sort of weird), stayed at a hotel on 16th and Salmon (small rooms and sort of weird), but spent most of my time in the Hawthorne district at Powell's Books For Cooks. If you go to Portland, you have to go there. The sale table is unbelievable. And this doesn't sound too inspired, but the McMennimin's pub across the street and slightly to the west has impressed me over and over. It's basic food, but the service is always attentive and the food is always delicious. Plus great local beers. Really, delicious. If you're in the neighborhood after dark there's a cool little place down a side street called Greater Trumps. Very small, swanky (Portland-wise) cigar and liquor place. Three blocks west of these places is Imelda's Shoes, the greatest goddamned shoe store I've ever been in. God, I love it there. Why don't I just move already?

What/where is Lark?

How about this: If the bathroom's dirty, the kitchen is dirty. If the bathroom's clean, then the kitchen is probably clean. You can't tell if the kitchen is clean unless you go into the kitchen. Who wouldn't let you look around unless they were ashamed of the way it looks? Go ahead, ask.

Go to any of the local breweries. This is the most exciting place in the country to (have to?) look for beer, and you'll find a ton of options. Big Time in the U. District, Hale's in Fremont, Elysian on Capitol Hill, Maritime in Ballard, Dick's in Centralia, La Conner in La Conner, Boundary Bay in Bellingham, Diamond Knot in Mukilteo, Scuttlebutt in Everett, Fish Tail in Olympia, Winthrop in Winthrop. Good god man, you've got weeks and months of research to do. Get to know the beers, the brewers, and get more than you think you'll need. Once you find great beer, it'll disappear very quickly. If you can't leave the city head for one of the pubs and talk with the buyers about what will be a crowd pleaser. The Latona, Cooper's, the 74th Street Ale House. They'll know what to do. Don't forget to drink some when the time comes...

"The idea that national chains, be they restaurants or retailers, "push out" local independent business is an economic fallacy. What pushes them out is local consumers deciding that low prices and large quantities are more important to them than higher quality and more interesting food. These chains are successful because of consumer tastes, nothing more, nothing less." National chains succeed in lowering their prices and serving larger quantities by using the capital of a corporation to buy at lower prices, resulting in lower revenues for farmers, ranchers, and other food producers. They can afford the higher rents until there is no one else in the neighborhood and all of the business is theirs. The Cheesecake Factory has a safety net and we all pay for it with industrial food served in a fakey dining room with robot service. Unfortunately, because of the effective training programs and consistent food people feel safer eating there than at a small neighborhood place where the chef may change or the servers may move on, and the result is dissatisfaction in the independent business experience. It doesn't excuse the Outback Steakhouse from corrupting our tastes. Who doesn't go to Wal-Mart anymore? They have everything. But going shopping without thinking about the overall result of supporting them results in known devastation, the loss of small businesses and downtown business cores. They already pay just minimum wage. Once there are no other places to work will everyone be making that wage? The problem isn't that we go to large chains to be happy, it's that we're afraid to eat at the small places because of the fear of not getting our money's worth. Our perception of what's worth it in this country has been changed by the chains, and I think for the worse.

Someone on the New York board mentioned an incredible dinner at an expensive restaurant that finished with the usual crappy cup of espresso. Living in Seattle we've come to expect great coffee (or so we think) on every corner, and restaurants here are likely to have a quality product to round out their best food efforts. Even the worst coffee bars are pretty good. What are your favorite brands/locations for great coffee? Any restaurants really getting it right with coffee service? Any of them doing anything weird or exceptional?

Oh thank god, no one's mentioned mine yet. I am not the first to do this, I'm sure, but there are a couple of specifics. Pour about 1/2 oz good amontillado sherry into a cold martini glass, shake 4 oz gin until cold and pour over the top, then garnish with pimento olives. I know, I know. It's a martini with a larger amount of sherry substituted for a smaller amount of vermouth. So much different though. And I never go crazy on the brand of gin either. It's Gordon's for me. One more. This is so fucking depressing. A good friend of mine doesn't like to drink wine. No one knows what the hell is wrong with him. He says it's too bitter. What a dick. I was over at his place the other day and noticed a half filled bottle of cheap merlot. At least he was trying to like it, I thought. I complimented him on his breakthrough, but he stopped me right away. Apparently he had been mixing it with equal parts Coca Cola. It really sweetened it up, he said. I'm not calling that guy for a while.

A friend brought back a couple of bottles of absinthe from the Czech (is that spelled right? I'm not drunk now...) Republic awhile back. I managed to corner a considerable amount of it as a few of us sat around drinking after work. I probably put away 12 ounces of it on an empty stomach and will allow that I felt differently than after that much gin. Floaty, physically relaxed, mellow, but strangely alert. It seemed like things were happening around me and I processed them as if I were sober, but with no anxiety or irritation. This is probably total crap though. We were all amazed by the smuggling story and fascinated by the traditional absinthe utensils (which we used - spoon, sugar cube, pitcher of water, fire), all of it quite distracting. Who knows. I'll probably never get that brand again... As for Absente, it is made to taste like the old-time absinthe but without any of the original effects. I think it was created by one of the pastis houses in France (maybe not) and was put out to capitalize on the renewed interest in absinthe and its history. It's pretty good. Each one of the anise flavored liquors has a unique taste and consistency. Pernod - strong liqorice, yellow, and syrupy. Ricard - A larger mix of spice flavors, kind of dry, and more naturally colored. Absenthe is complex and not too sweet. It's enjoyable with a few cubes and a splash of water, which you'll probably need. It's a higher proof. 100? 110? So it will fuck you up. Just don't expect to hallucinate and start writing poetry...

I was curious about the bourbon part...

I didn't know what the hell you were talking about there for a bit. Got it now. So you'll be at the stadium right next to the International District. Short walking distance (maybe 1/4 mile) to some great asian places. Please excuse us for not having the amazing abundance of Vancouver, but there are some good spots. Shanghai Garden has always been popular (shaved green barley noodles, shanghai dumplings), Sea Garden Restaurant (great noodle dishes, and great everything else), Ho-ho Seafood (seafood), any of the barbeque places (Kau-kau is my favorite), and a few Japanese restaurants to the north of Jackson street just a few blocks east of the stadium. All of these are cheap compared to non-asian alternatives, and easily more satisfying. For four, maybe $60 total without drinks. Canadian that's what, $450? Oh, sorry about that. And then afterward, head north up 1st for hip, dive-y bars. Don't stay in Pioneer Square. If you pass the Pike Place Market you've gone too far...

Has anybody mentioned pork chops yet? How about Mama Lil's? Goat horn peppers pickled in vinegar, then packed in olive and canola oils. Great peppers, then you realize you've got to do something with all of that delicious oil... I made a big batch of aioli for some friends and they won't shut up about it. Just the standard deal, but they have always bought (fat free) mayonnaise at the store. I borrowed some back, and I don't think I could live without it now. Hot sauces: Scorned Woman, Cajun Bottle Rocket, African Rhino Piri-Piri Sauce (expensive, but incredible) All of 'em are good on fried eggs. And lovage puree.

Well, this isn't going to be helpful for your question either. How about soaking a bunch of those raspberries in vodka? Raspberry cordial for Christmastime? And how about making jam? Or jelly. Jelly's cool... Wait, wait. I'll give it a shot. Weigh the berries, then boil them with just a little bit of water. Once they boil simmer them for about ten minutes to break them up. Strain them through cheesecloth and return the juice to the pot. Add one cup of sugar per pound of raspberries, simmer for ten minutes, and check the consistency on a cold plate. If it isn't thick enough then slowly reduce it until it's correct. Refrigerate, and I don't think you'll have to seal it in jars. Anyone know for sure?

I'll be catering a wedding in the middle of August and need advice from anyone who has successfully roasted an entire animal in a pit. From what I understand, a pit is dug in the shape of a cube and lined with rocks, a huge fire is built on top of that and allowed to burn down to embers, a wrapped animal is lowered in, and the whole thing is covered with earth. Whew. Sounds easy so far. For my pit roasting debut I'll be trying it with the most expensive option, lamb. And probably four of them. I'm worried about the timing, the heat, how easy it will be to carve when it's done, etc. Have you heard about the wild fires this summer in the west? The whole weekend will be right in the middle of it. I guess I'll be dealing with that issue too. Permits? General regulations that I should know to ask about? I think this is a solidly desperate first post. Thanks for any help.

I find bread to be an important part of any great restaurant meal. There is one thing I like about bread service that I don't think I would want to do without. I find that it's a great break between courses, flavors, drinks, whatever. Sometimes my mouth needs to relax between the excitement of the new and/or unusual. Thinking about a eucalyptus ice cube and sassafras aroma in the same meal makes me want to stuff my face with something made with flour. Bread allows other flavors to be more exciting. You get a super interesting flavor in one dish, but without something to slow it down the next dish isn't quite as cool. Kind of get used to the taste bud freakout. The freakout is what you're going for, but it's almost impossible to maintain for 24 (holy crap!) courses, I bet. There are ups and downs planned into the meal I imagine, but bread can be so perfect in the 'down' role. This sounds lame and so behind the times compared with what you're doing and what you're thinking about doing, but we do breads based on the season (more than four, of course). Oven dried tomato bread for some of August, black breads around Christmas, fresh chervil bread in March (that was an expensive one). You've got a hell of a job with all of those courses, but you obviously work seasonally. It seems like you would still need something to go with a ton wild ideas. I'll get over there someday. Let me know if I should bring a loaf.

Underpaid? Oh, no, no, don't worry about us. We're okay. We'll get by...

I went a couple of weeks ago and had the same experience as everyone else. Had a drink that was relatively cheap but really small. Then a beer that was good. Then a sauteed squid appetizer with black beans and red cabbage that shouldn't have left the goddamned kitchen. First of all, it was lukewarm, then it was unexciting (but in a serious way), hard to eat with the phyllo cup-things that came with it, and so overcooked that I didn't touch more than a quarter of it. And I was drinking. And I was hungry. And what the christ? The neighborhood is packed with people who can afford to go out night after night. Why aren't they insulted with this kind of crap? The aforementioned shitty service was present when I was there, but not to me. I overheard the complaining of inexperienced waitresses as I was pushing away my food. Stupid bickering that shouldn't be present to the public, if at all. All of this led to my decision to stay away from the place for awhile, if not forever. Thank god they sell their beer to places that have a sensible clientele, like the Latona Pub just a few blocks away, and that they bottle it and send it to Bottleworks and Whole Foods, also very near. This should probably be a thread on its own, but the Greenlake Bar and Grill is a hell of an alternative in the area. Wade through college kids waiting for the Little Red Hen to get hopping and have a nice dinner most notable for it's service. I didn't anticipate the professionalism in the early-twenties servers who hopefully are making enough money to stay for awhile. Drinks arrived promptly, orders were taken perfectly, and the wine was well recommended and tasty. I never dine with low expectations, and I was surprised at the performance of the staff. Everyone go there now.

Go with Citronelle, and enjoy yourself.

I've combined braised goat and broiled goat cheese in one dish. They complement each other, the goat smell of the meat, the mild bite of the cheese but a strong flavor... Somehow it worked. White beans and thyme, I think, were the other major flavor components. And summer tomatoes. Goat can be hard to find butchered. I've had to buy whole carcasses every time I wanted it. Sometimes it can be found at Halal shops and I imagine they would have different cuts. Long and slow cooking is definitely the way to go. You might want to stay out of the kitchen though. It can smell like you're cooking a daschund...

Also in D.C. and kind of near Madam's Organ, in the Adams Morgan, is a place called The Grill From Ipanema. The restaurant at the top of the Hoover Dam is called the Snacketeria. Apparently they have snacks in a cafeteria setting? What a draw. Restaurants yet to open: Casa Role, serving only one-pot baked dishes. And a medieval restaurant that only offers crispy things, The Deep Friar.

God, I miss that guy. My knives would stay perfectly sharp for three months at a time. And he was pleasant and obviously knew what he was doing. Since he left Seattle I have never found anyone who could sharpen my knives half as well...

The great thing is, if you stored them covered in fat they'll last for months and you don't have to think of something to do right away. And they only get better. I just tried lamb shank confit a couple of weeks ago for the first time and it was great. Melted away the fat that it was stored in, seared it for a crispy outer layer, then roasted it. Served with lentils, caramelized endive, rhubarb chutney, and jus. It was damned good. I'll definitely use this technique again. Braised shanks are great, but everybody does them. Confit is a hell of a good way to treat this cut.

If you have never been, Bottlewerks (maybe it's Bottleworks) on 45th in Seattle has a tremendous selection of weird beer. I'd say if you were trying to find something specific they would have it or could get it quickly. I've had several smoked beers at the Latona pub near Greenlake. They rotate in periodically. They're pleasant if it's cold and raining. Maybe a little cloying, with or without excessive malt, for drinking in the summer. Then again, with a lapful of barbecue...