Florida Jim

Steven, Good point. Many thanks for your inclusion of hyper-links. Best, Jim

Steven, Masterfully done. The "cuisine of subtraction" is a concept that interests me greatly. Is Utagawa its originator and are their any texts available that discuss it? I too, wish to be educated. BTW, being from FL, I have had several red wine pairings with cooked fish and seafood that worked nicely; one in particular, baked swordfish with Cotes du Rhone, was an epiphany. Best, Jim

2000 Earl Alain Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Prestige VV: Distinct gamay scents mixed with black fruit, iron and spice notes/ Flavors are mostly black fruit with accents of spice, earth and iron-mineral elements, almost brooding and still a bit tight, intense and concentrated, perfect balance/ Long finish. Only the gamay on the nose gives any hint this is Beaujolais. A powerhouse of flavor and focus. Needs a year or two, I think (maybe more). Imported by Becky Wasserman. 1997 Jaboulet, Hermitage La Chapelle: Day one: somewhat closed on both the nose and palate but clearly Hermitage, dense, great balance and deeply flavored. Day two: more open with raw meat scents, minerality and very expansive red and black fruit aromas; also more open on the palate but still focused, marrowy and dense, layered flavors (especially, black cherry), hidden structure, vinous and concentrated; very long finish. Despite a refined and graceful mouthfeel, the flavors tend to the indelicate exhibiting depth and latent power. An integrated but intricate wine that is both intellectually interesting and savory; delicious. Imported by Frederick Wildman. Aside: Recent vintages of La Chapelle have been much less interesting to me and not made in the same style as this wine. The ’97 harkens back to earlier vintages that were packed with raw flavor and were, for lack of a better word, more authentic. This wine certainly gives the impression that it was made in the vineyard, not in the winery. An excellent wine now and for many years to come. Best, Jim

Aperitif: 2002 Planeta, La Segreta: Unoaked, fresh and lively, clean with light body and lacy, white fruit flavors. A white, fermented in stainless blend which works very well and is a pleasure to drink without food or with lighter fare. This is the kind of wine I am looking for these days; ready now, juicy, authentic. Imported by Vias Imports. With grilled/roast pork, roasted onions, asparagus and olive bread toasts: 1999 Hirtzberger, Gruner Veltliner Honivogl: Glorious wine. Rich, intense, layered, with strong flavors that went exceptionally with the food. Scents and flavors of pineapple, snap pea, tea, minerals, flowers and pepper; dense and focused with good weight in the mouth and extraordinary concentration. Yet, even as I savored the nose and palate, it was the finish that astonished; endless. A masterpiece with all the pieces in place and nothing in dissonance. No need to hurry to drink but, if you open one, do decant it. Imported by Vin Divino. Later, with assorted cheeses and mild cappa cola: 2000 Copain, Pinot Noir Dennison Vnyd.: Moderate nose of sappy pinot fruit with a bit of spice and cola that leads to a forward, middle weight palate that is relatively simple and, at first seemed a bit blousy. As it opened, it gained focus and acidic bite which brightened the palate and helped integrate the wine suggesting that it is deeper than first taste would indicate. However, there never was much complexity and I don’t think this is built for long term aging (unlike the ’99). Good wine, well made but more in the “California style” than other wines from this house and, for this taster, therefore somewhat disappointing. Best, Jim

Bob, Brown, Greg, Larry, Mary, Tami, Steve, Barb and yours truly assembled in High Point for some serious festivization. We ate grilled beef tenderloin with lavender, grilled endive, braised riddiccio, salad, fresh baked bread and quick boiled asparagus. We drank: 1983 Chat. De Lacarelle, Tirage Primeur Beaujolais-Villages: This stuff was not only alive it was truffled, complex, fruit solid and well balanced. A 21 year old Beau. that delivered more than it ever promised. 2002 Dom. Chantemerle, Chablis Fourchaume: Considering its youth, this wine was remarkably complex and full flavored. I think a long future is in store but no one can be faulted for drinking it now. 1996 Lynch Bages: How can this be this open? A beautiful, albeit young Bordeaux that has remarkable complexity, ripeness and sustain. ‘Tastes purple (if that’s possible) and has a great future but rocked the house this evening. WOTN for me. 1998 Rostaing, Cote-Rotie: Closed when opened (well, you know what I mean . . .) but gradually opened to a point where, although still restrained, its profile suggested focus rather than youth, and it showed elegnace, finesse and length. A fine wine that needs time but it showed more than enough this night. 1992 Chave, Rouge: I have had this wine several times in the last year or so and this was not its best moment. More insecticide or medicinal tones on the nose than I like and not as marrowy as other bottles. Fair but not up to its pedigree. 1998 Ogier, Cote-Rotie: When first uncorked, it blew everything away. But as it opened it became loose-knit and almost blowsy; not what I expected at all. Good, not great. 1990 Jamet, Cote-Rotie: I have had this wine twice in the last year and this bottle showed disjointed and young. Clearly, a quality wine but my last bottle was integrated and ready, this was a glimpse into the future. 1997 Jamet, Cote-Brune, Cote-Rotie Lots of bacon on the nose this is deeper, more concentrated and even younger than the other Cote-Rotie we tasted. Is going to be exceptional; later. 1985 Graham’s Port: Port is not my forte and this seemed sweet and young. But I am not to be trusted regarding such after-dinner wines and others enjoyed it more than I; especially with a cheese assortment. I’ve no idea what will be opened next, but I’ll try to show up . . . Best, Jim

In this country (US), John Thomas. A small Oregon pinot noir producer with a very idiosyncratic style. Other winemakers who know him say that he will do anything for his wines (meaning work 24 hours straight, if required, etc.) He is a somewhat shy man that does everything himself on his three acres of vineyard and declassifies any wine he feels is not good enough to bear his name. Iconoclastic, mannered, authentic and very interesting; both the man and his wines. Best, Jim

With crackers and cheese and sliced, mild cappa cola: 2000 Nikolaihof, Riesling Steiner Hund: The nose is all about wet stones, the kind where rushing stream water hits them and then evaporates quickly as the rocks are warmed by the sun, add a couple pinches of white pepper; the palate has bright, clean white fruit, mineral and pepper elements and a very light sweetness (as in fruit sweetness), the mouthfeel is light and lacy but still intense and nicely balanced; long, mineral driven finish. Not on par with the ’99 but a delightful wine that shows well now and could be drunk sans food. Imported by M. Skurnik Wines. With grilled chicken with fresh porcini, fresh baby artichoke hearts and broccoli rabe, and a side of Cajun risotto: 2001 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore: The nose was nebbiolo all the way but the palate was so (fruit) sweet and balanced, a really delicious example of the grape produced without wood or winemaker machinations, very few young nebbiolo deliver this kind of pleasure and ripe flavor without the burden of excess tannin or some form of intervention. Killer with the dish. Imported by Winebow. With Keene’s Yard Cheddar, four year old Gouda and pickled baby peaches in truffle oil: 1990, Chateau Rochebelle, St. Emilion: No note, just impressions; picked up the truffle flavors, delivered ripe and completely resolved merlot flavors with hints of earth and spice; was so good with the food that it is hard to imagine any other wine competing. A fabulous finish to a fabulous meal. Thanks Mark. For those of you familiar with this wine, its best showing ever. Imported by me. (Worth noting is the fact that the cheeses were unpasteurized as were olives we munched on throughout the meal – a rare treat.) Best, Jim

With crackers and cheese: 1996 Trimbach, Clos St. Hune: The big surprise was how open it is (although not fully); a stony, floral, white fruit and leafy nose that was restrained but ample; serious cut on the palate but not out of balance with harmonious layers of flavor that exponentially expand on the elements of the nose and superb length. A racy, streamlined Hune rather than the more opulent ’98 (for example). Imported by Seagram Chateau and Estate. With grilled beef tenderloin, medium rare and baked potato: 1999 Verset, Cornas: As expected with a wine this young, an initial one dimensional nose with ash-tray and olive predominant, it opens to ripe plum and other black fruit aromas and some provocative Cornas funk; much more open on the palate and although clearly syrah, upon first sip I might have guessed Hermitage for its density and integration, well concentrated, became more complex with air but had excellent balance from the start; a long, fleshy finish. Sure to improve with a few years of aging but not shabby now, especially with the food. Imported by Kermit Lynch. Best, Jim

With crackers and cheese: 2001 F.X. Pichler, Riesling M: Last year, this wine was a caricature of riesling; almost too big to be considered varietally correct. Now it is almost restrained, with lovely, deep floral elements playing on a pineapple and mineral nose, plenty of viscosity offset by solid acids, flavors that follow the nose adding notes of white pepper in the mouth, intense, very concentrated, showing good balance and length. Before its time but delicious, nonetheless. Imported by Vin Davino. With broiled pork chops and red skin potato salad: 1999 Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles: Young and linear upon opening; with air it takes on a more layered and balanced approach although it is still massively concentrated (without becoming syrah-esque) and intense, very sappy and expansive in the mouth, I suspect this wine has a long future ahead of it even though it delivers substantial pleasure now; excellent length. Very old vines make for concentration like this; not California-like but showing the same type of density that better domestic versions can have. A joy to drink. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. Best, Jim

Aperitif: NV Zardetto, Prosecco: Bright, ginger ale nose and flavors with some floral tones and a bit of yeast and mineral. A pleasant sipper that, because of its residual sugar, is best served very cold. Winebow imports. With grilled wild salmon with pea pods and baby greens: 2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: The garganega profile is evident in the nose and on the palate of this wine; round and yet well structured, flavorful without being fully open, bright without being tart and excellent balance; a terrific rendition of Soave, whether the label says so or not. I look forward to many more bottles of this; ‘will keep short term. Winebow imports. With “build your own open faced sandwich;” pesto, olive oils, olives, buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and sautéed shitakes with truffle oil, all served with crusty bread: 1996 Ferrando, Carema (White Label): A recent ’96 Cantina Produttori, Carema, gave no indication of what heights can be reached in these mountains southwest of Gattinara; although immediately from the bottle this wine was thin, it was still head and shoulders more integrated and character driven than the Produttori, and as it opened, it took on weight without ever losing its finesse and complexity. Fairly well resolved structurally, this kept getting better and better with air and is graceful reminder that nebbiolo does not have to be big and tannic to be delicious. Rosenthal imports. 1998 Travaglini, Gattinara: Great wine in a funny shaped bottle. Much more dense and tannic than the preceding wine, this nebbiolo is more in the style of Barolo with a richness of texture and substantial but ripe tannins. Some unsweetened dark chocolate notes appear in the nose and mouth to compliment the red fruit, tar tones that are well integrated and intense; concentrated and balanced with a long, somewhat drying, finish. Quite a mouthful and surely has a fine future in the cellar. Beringer Blas Wine Estates imports. Best, Jim

Its between West Broadway and Greenich on Chambers Street. Ask for Jamie or David; these guys know their stuff. And if you want to see what my cellar looks like, just browse their inventory. IMO, the best small store inventory I know and definitely "to my taste." Best, Jim

My daughter hadn’t been in ten years, her husband, never. On the plane up from Tampa, we met an old friend on the plane. We caught a cab from LaGuardia and the driver was chatty and friendly. The bellman at the hotel was telling jokes and really efficient at the same time. Our rooms were delightful; the weather was cool and pleasant. And we were together in the greatest city in the world. The kids had a list of must do’s; Diane and I didn’t. Ostensibly we had come to see the Klee exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was understated, albeit a bit dark; reflective of his life and health in his later years. But the Chagal of “The Lovers” inspired me, the Modigliani’s enchanted and a Balhaus or two were so seductive. I could spend several weeks here; several hours were just an appetizer portion. We walked countless miles in three days; so many that my calves are cramped. On what must have been one of the first beautiful weather weekends in the city, we rode subways shoulder to shoulder, walked streets completely overwhelmed by pedestrians and never found a rude, unfriendly or inconsiderate person. Many folks said hello, subway riders talked to us and literally everybody said please, thank-you and your welcome in appropriate circumstances. I did not see a single angry or frustrated person nor hear a single swear word. I think the “nasty New Yorker” persona is created to keep tourists away. Since the kids were along, this was not a weekend for wining. But we tasted a few: 2002 Feudi, Falanghina: I’d not had a Falanghina before but remembered one of Marshall’s notes; it was delicious. Soft in the mouth but not flabby with ripe fruit, some rainwater scents and tastes and a clean finish. Note to self – buy more. 2000 La Ragose, Ripasso: Decent fruit but little complexity or structure and less flavor than I expect from Ripasso. Nonetheless, very good with osso bucco. 1996 Cantina Produttori, Carema: Unimpressive with little nebbiolo character and some sour earth scents and flavors with dusty tannins. We drank it with pizza, because there was nothing else, but if I’d have opened this at home it would have gone down the drain. I also made a quick trip to Chambers Street Wines for a 2001 Burgundy tasting, a chance to talk to co-proprietor Jamie Wolfe and the opportunity to meet Lyle, David and Nick. Funny (as in funny “nice”) about wine people; you’re always welcome. The wines generally did not impress with the biggest disappointment being the Fourrier, Clos St. Jacques which came across stemmy and closed. Surely time is on its side but I can’t imagine someone unfamiliar with the wine plopping down $70+ on the strength of this showing. But there was a gem on the shelf: 2001 Mark Angeli, Anjou “La Lune”: 100% chenin with a wet wool, chamomile nose that opened to more tropical fruit tones; smelled liked a sweet wine but despite being full in the mouth (like a sweet wine) it was dry, structured and deep; flavors much more about fruit than the nose with mineral accents and a hint of beer and really outstanding length. A sensational wine and my first from this producer. Thanks Nick. Oh yes, one twilight zone moment; walking for hours among the skyscrapers and throngs, Diane and I came upon Paley Park. A quiet oasis in a cement world, this tree shaded patio has a water-wall across one end that took me completely away from the urban surroundings. We just stood at the edge of the pool and stared and breathed in the humid air. And felt better. I could go on and on; so many great moments. It’s a turbulent, dazzling, excessive city that is a carnival for the senses; I truly love it. And all this nonsense about surly New Yorkers; well, you can’t prove it by me. Maybe a small place on the upper west side . . . Best, Jim

I'll be at Moe's in July if you can break free. Best, Jim

Yeah, I noticed that. Two sides of the same coin. Best, Jim

A relaxed and informal day; time spent with my daughter; time spent with my family and friends; calls from absent family and friends; a massage; some new music to listen to; my choice of food to eat; my choice of wine to drink; a lot of laughter; time playing with my dogs; a warm and crystal clear day; a nap; a ballgame on TV; egg custard for dessert; espresso; the smell of my wife’s hair; a very happy birthday, indeed! Dinner: With sushi: 2000 La Suite Gramonae, Cava Gran Cuvee: Smells of cracked pepper, apple and tonic water/ A very fine bead with apple flavors and hints of cream soda, extremely dry and crisp, clean and airy/ Long in the mouth with a continuing reprise of apple and tonic water flavors. Wonderfully dry and complex; not at all like any Cava I have had before. And the length is remarkable. The best food pairing of the night. About $17, retail; Eric Solomon imports. With homemade cream of tomato soup: 1996 Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny: Not impressive; hard and angular with a reticent nose, obvious wood and little Chambolle character. Maybe the 96’s from Roumier will need decades, even the village wines, but I am starting to doubt if this vintage will ever soften. About $42, delivered; imported by Seagram Chateau and Estates. With grilled sandwiches of olive bread, tomato, mozzarella and Portobello served with Caesar salad: 2001 Texier, Cote-Rotie VV: Dense, smooth, full of fruit with hints of earth and ash tray; some C-R character, excellent texture and breadth in the mouth and a long finish. Not the structure or depth of some vintages, but utterly delicious wine that went well with the dish. Drinks well now. About $29, on sale, delivered; imported by Vintner Select. After dinner: 2002 Coudert, Clos de la Roilette, Cuvee Tardive: Some face powder in the nose but also lots of red and black fruit, smooth and fullish on the palate with talc like tannins and loads of flavor; very long finish. Always a pleasure. About $21, delivered; imported by Louis Dressner. Best, Jim

"Me mudder tanks you, me fodder tanks you, . . ." But seriously, thanks for reading. Best, Jim

With cheese and crackers: 1998 Nino Negri, Valtellina Superiore “Inferno”: Slightly brown edges with tar, roses and red fruit on the nose with a touch of smoke; the flavors follow the nose with a somewhat watery texture, decent structure, light weight and good sustain. There is a whisper if vinegar under the fruit and aromas that, in combination with the watered feel of the palate, will stop me from buying another, even at $12, retail; imported by Prestige Wine Imports. With salmon cakes with a caper, cream sauce: 1996 Zacchetti, Gattinara: Similar in appearance and smell (maybe a little darker) to the preceding wine but much more concentrated and texturally denser, more complex as well, with black fruit and truffle elements accenting the tar, roses and red fruit, some tannins evident and a long, slightly drying finish. Better wine with more in common with Barbaresco or Barolo. Remarkably good with the fish cakes and cream sauce. About $17.50 retail, imported by Interwine, Fairfield, CT. Best, Jim

For those familiar with “Black Sheep Squadron:” 2000 La Suite Gramonae, Cava Gran Cuvee: Aromas of cracked pepper, apple and tonic water/ A very fine bead with strong apple flavors and hints of cream soda and clay, extremely dry and crisp, clean and airy/ Much longer in the mouth than expected with a continuing reprise of apple and tonic water flavors. Wonderfully dry and complex; not at all like any Cava I have had before. And the length is remarkable. About $17, retail; Eric Solomon imports. NV Zardetto, Prosecco: Clean, gingerale-esque type smells and flavors with light body, a slight hint of earthiness and a non-cloying finish. Wine for the terrace. About $8 retail, imported by Winebow. 2002 Verget, Saint-Veran, Les Clos: Rich and opulent on both the nose and palate, not flabby not far from it, concentrated, plush and has a good, smooth finish. This wine could be from anywhere, shows no wood, is denser than I would expect and has no real sense of place or character. About $16, retail, imported by Stacole. 2002 Verget, Macon-Vergisson, La Roche: More austere and crisp than the preceding wine with a sort of sour mid-palate and after-taste. This may actually have more short term potential but the sour finish makes me weary. No evident wood. About $14, retail, imported by Stacole. Best, Jim

With roast pork and pasta primavera: 2002 Coudert, Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie: Clear, precise ripe strawberry, raspberry and cherry fruit on the nose with equally precise and lively flavors that follow the nose along with an enticing mineral note, bright acidity and some evident tannins complete the palate; a mouthwatering finish stays with you. F**king glorious! Makes me wish I’d bought a container of this stuff. Great potential and delicious now – what more could one want? About $15, delivered; imported by Louis Dressner of NYC. With cheese and crackers: 1998 Chat. Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Leognan: What an odd wine; very oaky nose (reminds me of some of Mondavi’s high end sauvignons, although no “coconut” aromas) with some white fruit; little oak on the palate with good white fruit and mineral tones, a touch hollow at mid-palate but gains back flesh as one swallows, bright acidity and a mouth-watering finish. This is 100% sauvignon and my guess would be that more time in the cellar is warranted. But to have that much wood on the nose and have it all but disappear on the palate . . . I’m not sure I’d trust my ability to predict. Most unusual. About $35 retail, importer unknown. (Curiously, this bottle did not have any indication of importer nor the BATF warning label. I bought an unopened wood case of this on release – gray market?) With black bean salsa on garden burgers (non-meat burgers) with avocado: 2000 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Non-filtre: Aged Beaujolais, even at just a couple of years of age, can be so charming . . . This was beautiful on both the nose and palate with soft red fruits and black fruit accents, nice mineral and spice tones with a hint of earth, smooth and satin textured, hidden but solid structure; very good length. Very Brouilly with the black fruit playing more of role than in some other cru. Good depth of flavor and some complexity make this absolutely perfect with the food. About $13, delivered; imported by Becky Wasserman Selections. Best, Jim

C.R., The 95 vintage at Flowers is widely held to be one of the most tannic anyone has seen for pinot. I don't know if it was the fruit or the barrel regimen or the combination, but its been like drinking wine with talc in it for years. Hopefully (and that is a long odds hope), as they age the tannin will settle out but I doubt they will ever be smooth or elegant. This Crozes is just the best damn thing . . . Best, Jim

A more than interesting afternoon, revealed leaks in drains and water pipes we had missed the first time around and the necessary calls to tradespersons were made in short order. As the problems continue to develop one is challenged to remain calm and deal with “what’s next.” No mean feat, I can tell you. So Diane, dealing with it in her way, whipped up some roasted pork tenderloin with pasta primavera and some toasted dinner rolls to go with: 1995 Flowers, Pinot Noir Moon Select: Considering its past, this showed no overt oak but plenty of tannin. Nice but so tannic as to make one move along to what ever else is next. 2000 Siduri, Pinot Noir Arbre Vert Vnyd.: Much the better of the two pinots, with considerable cut, crisp cranberry fruit and a palate that is even more enticing than the recent Siduri, Willamette Valley, pinot from the same vintage. ‘Needs time in the cellar. When all else misses the mark, I “go to:” 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage, Cuvee Alberic Bouvet: Without dispute, one of the finest wines in my cellar and a delight to drink at virtually any time in its development. Wonderful black olive and red fruit smells with a smooth but focused texture, bright fruit flavors, lots of Northern Rhone character and good persistence. What a fabulous wine; always a crowd pleaser (and a Jim pleaser). Best, Jim

It is a small chalet type residence, nestled in the deep forest. Mark has lived here for almost five years. Tonight there is a light fog and the humidity is palpable. We are the first to arrive and, with Italian sausage and assorted cheeses, Mark chooses the 2001 Arano, Valpolicella Superiore. It is an easy quaff, with clear red fruit notes on the nose and a medium weight, fruit forward palate. It compliments the sausage and the cheeses well, although it is clearly a wine for drinking today. With mussels with a sauce of reduced mussel liqueur with goat cheese and lobster coral: 2000 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allees: No pairing could be more right. A delicious and complex wine on its own, the combination is sublime. Deeply flavored and almost fleshy with excellent cut and remarkable sustain, this wine is ideal with the food. Many years left in the cellar but I doubt there is anytime that this wine will disappoint. With wild mushroom risotto: 1999 Dom. Dujac, Chambolle-Musigny: Opened before its time, this wine shows oak and pure fruit when tasted without food. In the presence of the risotto, the wood is gone and the palate becomes more layered and shows greater depth. A wine in need of cellaring for another five years, this still gives more than a hint of what it will become. And the pairing was excellent. With assorted cheeses: 1999 Savoye, Morgon, Cuvee Speciale Fut de Chene: A wine of power and finesse with strong, pinot-esque flavors, a solid structure and no wood showing. For near or short term drinking but a wine many Burgundies wish they could emulate. Best, Jim

Aperitif: 1999 Nigl, Riesling Senftenberg Piri Privat: Served too cold; allowed to warm it had crisp minerality, clean white grape and lemon zest scents, and nuances of tropical fruit (mango, pineapple, etc.); the palate was bright and echoed the nose showing some complexity but still showing somewhat closed, intense with good cut, balance leaning toward acidity; medium length finish. The tropical aspects were unexpected but they were carried off without flabbiness or much flesh; well backed by acid and very focused. Needs time and should be served closer to room temperature but instructive and lip smacking even today. With pasta with gorgonzola, grilled radicchio and grilled mushrooms: 2000 Siduri, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley: Showing perfectly with fine red and black fruit aromas, some distinct cranberry notes, spice and a touch of underbrush; smooth with a lovely texture, the flavors follow the nose including the cranberry notes, good depth of flavor without losing focus, excellent structure and precise balance; with a long, fruit-sweet finish. True to its Oregon upbringing, flavorful and perfectly balanced; delicious and a fine representative of NW pinot. Ready now. Best, Jim

Craig, This was the first time I have tasted this wine and had nothing to compare it to, hence my comment about "a couple of years." Best, Jim

Coming back to the mountains after a very cold and harsh winter makes for some surprises. For instance, when we turned the water on, it rained in our kitchen. Frozen pipes require immediate repair. But while the plumbers were taking care of last year’s mistakes, we were staying at Diane’s folks house (just down he road) while they are still in FL. And, of course, there is no time like the present to celebrate the day. With seafood gratin: 2000 Jermann, “Vintage Tunina:”: A mix of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, tocai friulano, picolit, and late harvest fruit of the same varieties; fermented in stainless steel; it shows the acid and lift of the sauvignon and the flesh of the chardonnay without tending toward either variety. An interesting, bright wine, that is really non-descript at this time. Given a couple of years, who knows. Pleasant as aperitif and with the dish. 2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: Lovely aromatics and a crisp yet fleshy palate require the taster to revisit this wine. Excellent with the dish and delightful with the salad. With fresh greens salad with sun-dried tomatoes and feta: The above wines and, 2002 Bruno Giacosa, Roero Arneis: Bright and refreshing on both the nose and palate with rain water and lime skin smells and flavors. Excellent with the salad and better with: Sautéed flounder with fresh corn relish and potato gnocchi: All of the 3 above wines and; 1998 Hamacher, Pinot Noir: Clean, crisp aromatics and an acid driven, fruit sweet palate that is resonant but short. Still a bit closed, IMO. One of our guests, who is much more experienced than I, called this simple and low acid but pretty tannic. That is 180 degrees from my call, which is plenty of acid, low tannin and still closed. An interesting difference of opinion but an engaging wine. Best, Jim