Florida Jim

2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Sevre et Maine, Clos des Allées VV: Aromas of lime, unripe pineapple, Granny-smith apple, tonic water, wet stones and an underlying hint of both black pepper and ginger; medium bodied with flavors that follow the nose and each playing a delineated yet integrated part of the palate, concentrated, intense, crisp without being tart; very, very long in the mouth. Enjoyed with a light lunch of cheese and pâtés; ethereal now but loads of life ahead. As good as any wine has a right to be; no, make that as great as . . . Decades will go by before I have any red wine that has this kind of quality at this price. About $7, delivered. (I have no idea why someone would put this wine “on sale” but, at the time, I bought all I could afford.) Best, Jim

2002 Donnafugata, Anthilia: The label notes this is a blend of Ansonica and Catarratto; two grapes I am not familiar with. This blend from Sicily has a muted fruit and beeswax nose with low-acidity and a flavor profile that reminds me of Greco based wines. It is fresh and pleasing, albeit simple and is clearly for drinking today. 2001 B. Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: (This is not the Valmaggiore bottling.) Clean, un-manipulated, well-structured and balanced Nebbiolo is just hard to beat. This is lighter than Barolo and Barbaresco, is more structured than most Valtellina, and, is a shining example of what this grape can taste like when made in an immediately accessible style. A nice accompaniment to grilled chicken (and how many Nebbiolo can you say that about?) Delicious now, will cellar short term. Best, Jim

Intensity is a word I often associate with fine wine. To me, it speaks to the power of the aromas and flavors in wine; as distinguished from “concentration” which includes an element of texture. Intensity is all about smell and taste and their impact on the senses. Several years ago, I had my first 1996 Hirtzberger, Riesling Singerrriedel Smaragd. It was at lunch on the porch at our home in the NC mountains; I remember it so clearly that I can describe the light through the trees at the moment we sat down to eat. The taste of that wine galvanized that moment in my mind and it was only the first of many Austrian wines that have wound-up in my cellar and on my table. So, when Carolina Wine recently offered this wine on sale (at a much reduced price) I bought all they had. When it arrived, I noticed some leaking bottles; I called them and they immediately gave me credit for the suspect bottles but told me to keep them. And so, last night, when Diane wanted a white wine to cook with, I opened one of the suspect bottles. I re-corked it after she took what she needed and left it on the counter. Today, for lunch, we drank the remainder. It is better than ever; rounder but still every bit as intense with greater depth and complexity; powerful scents of pineapple, resin and mineral; wonderful density on the palate; a great wine regardless of appearances. And if you ask me six months from now, what kind of day it was when Diane and I drank this bottle, I will be able to tell you that it was clear, breezy and there were high, wispy clouds; that the light that came in the windows reflected on the coffee table in such a way that it looked like glass; that her hair style was so attractive that I could not keep from staring; that the music was Sting’s latest album . . . and so on, and so on. Intensity is unforgettable. Best, Jim

1996 Duval-Leroy, Champagne Brut Blanc de Chardonnay: All bread dough and ginger on the nose with a mouth feel of froth and flavors that follow the nose adding light white fruit tones. Delightful and the bead lasted through the entire meal. Thanks Jason. With carrot risotto and marinated, grilled duck breast: 2000 Joseph Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny Amoureuses: All Chambolle on the nose with deep black fruits, light spice and veggie aromas; soft and accessible on the palate showing good depth, flavors that follow the nose and add red fruit tones and a touch of mineral, good concentration and intensity and even some complexity; excellent length and balance. A terrific wine that did not need the four hour decant to show well but survived it. Stellar with the dish. N/V Wetzel Estate, Pinot Noir Single Cluster: A smoky, soy-type first impression that is followed with pleasant if indistinct fruit and earth tones; smooth and concentrated, simple yet enjoyable in the mouth; medium finish. The label says this was made by Chateau Bianca of Dallas, OR; I have not heard of it before and its “single cluster” status is a bit baffling. Thanks Fitz. Best, Jim

With insalata Caprese: 2003 Mustilli, Falanghina Sant’ Agata dei Goti: Very charming wine with no evidence of over-ripeness or high alcohol, bright flavors with a distinct mineral note, the slightest touch of mustiness and a medium finish. The mustiness was not akin to “cork” but more like an unfocused flint or mineral element. In any event, it was excellent with the dish. With pasta with feta marinated in herbs and oil, with chicken, broccoli and olives: 1996 Elvio Pertinace, Langhe: The label says its 70% nebbiolo, 15% barbera and 15% cabernet sauvignon; I say it’s velvety on the palate; rich and deep with some poop on the nose but none on the palate and a well-concentrated and balanced example of what can be done with this kind of blend if one leaves the wood to a minimum. A delicious wine alone and with the dish. Best, Jim

2002 Coudert, Clos de la Roilette Fleurie: Served lightly chilled, although it surely doesn’t require it; clear strawberry/raspberry, mineral and earth scents and flavors, focused and compact with good concentration and intensity; medium length finish. Built to go mid-distance; delicious anytime. 2002 Coudert, Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Tardive: Big assed wine; more textural, showy and richer than the previous wine with slightly less focus; excellent structure. Will last and probably needs a few years. 2002 Giacosa, Arneis: Continues a long string of fine showings with lots of character, fruit and sufficient structure to let it go short term: good sustain. A favorite at our house. 2001 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore: At a really nice place right now with a delivery that is dusty on both the nose and palate, clearly nebbiolo but in a lighter style and temptingly complex. This works with so many foods; I wish I had several more cases. 2003 Protocolo, Rosé (Spain): Bright, fresh, flavorful, crisp, 12% alcohol and even has some length. Beautiful wine and only $5. My new “go to” rosé (and I am going to rosé more and more . . .). Best, Jim

On a recent trip to St. Barth, several wines of interest were consumed: 1995 Rousseau, Chambertin: One of the most complex Burgundies I have smelled – many sorts of tropical and red fruits at various stages of ripeness, light accents of mushroom, earth, underbrush and tobacco with hints of a number of spices – all of which, fade in and out and weave among the other smells, amazing; not the density on the palate that I expect from this bottling and a bit more tannin than I care for – not that the palate was thin or in the least bit ordinary, rather that it did not measure-up to the nose; medium length finish. Perhaps, a little time? 1990 Drouhin, Clos des Mouches: Rich and textural on the nose with wonderful, full fruit (not even a hint of over-ripeness), with elements of stone and spice – became more expansive as the wine opened; deep and rich in the mouth repeating the fruit and accents of the nose with an intense and very well concentrated delivery and without any angularity; long, structured finish. Currently showing some development with further development probable. Lovely wine. 1999 Doruhin, Cote de Beaune: (We were told this was declassed Clos des Mouches and considering the success/volume of the vintage, I see no reason to question that); the muscular baby brother of the preceding wine which, once it had a bit of air, showed the firm, mineral infused fruit of the Mouches. Will keep nicely. 2002 Chateau de Maligny (Jean Durup), Petit Chablis: Simply the finest Petit Chablis I have tasted (although frankly, I have not tasted all that many because most are unimpressive); certainly rivals the premier cru selections from this house for concentrated flavor and aroma, while being fresh, open and delicious now. Inexpensive at twice the price. Many others, including a number of utterly charming, inexpensive and thirst quenching roses from Provenace, St. Tropez, Bandol, etc. (Aside: I suspect this happens to others – occasionally in my life I see a unique natural phenomena that make such an impression on me that I am both awed and inspired. One morning this trip I saw a perfect rainbow; a full 180 degrees, vibrant color throughout, each end visible and extremely close. I thought to run and get Diane but was afraid to move least the vision be lost. I will never look at rainbows the same way again.) Best, Jim

Aperitif: 2002 B. Giacosa, Roero Arneis: Smells like apple juice from across the room, some light floral and spice scents accent; medium body, lightweight in the mouth but a satin texture and clean, ripe fruit with good persistence. Dandy stuff. With chili-marinade chicken with roasted root vegetables: 1998 Nino Negri, Valtellina Superiore Inferno: Somewhat more earthy than most Valtellina yet still floral with red fruit and tar accents; really good on the palate where the earth takes a secondary role to solid, ripe nebbiolo fruit and savory minerality, intense, balanced and long in the mouth with good grip. Dynamite with the dish and pretty delicious by itself; ready now but will hold. And at $12, a go to wine for any dinner. Best, Jim

With a lunch salad: 2003 Dom. Lafage, VDP Cotes Catalanes Cote Est: Another charming Eric Solomon wine; this one of grenache blanc; lightly floral with white fruit and very light honey tones; crisp and fruit sweet on the palate, slightly mineral, nicely balanced; moderate finish. Pleasant, airy and just the thing for aperitif or a light lunch. With pasta with salmon: 2003 Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf, Gamay Touraine: An herbal/stemmy scent that seems to be prevalent in many of the red wines of the Loire accents very ripe gamay fruit that smells of sweetness, light spice tones complete the aromatics; round and lush on the palate, jammy with bare hints of herbs, spice and flowers, the wine is soft in the mouth (the structure all but hidden) but still fresh, good concentration and balance; medium finish. For drinking now. Another delectable incarnation of gamay and excellent with the dish. With lunch of salad, crackers with cheese and spreads: 2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: Garganega doesn’t get made like this often; captivating aromatics of sweet gum, flowers, minerals, ginger and white fruit; beautifully fresh and lively in the mouth with ripe fruit, minerals and peppery spices all undulating across the palate in perfect balance, focused and delineated yet all of the same whole; clean and long on the finish. Finesse, aroma and structure; floral, plump, bright and mouth filling; and, all in perfect harmony; a testament to what can be done with this grape and this vineyard. And at $15, just plain stealing. Lovely with the lunch. To borrow from the VLMTR, fundamental. With chicken nachos and salsa: 2003 B. Giacosa, Dolcetto d’Alba: Dark chocolate and black fruit on the nose, deep and brooding; rich and full bodied with flavors that follow the nose, mouth-puckering tannins, excellent ripeness and concentration and good (albeit, grippy) length. Good stuff with strongly flavored food, way too tannic without. and, 2001 Copain, Syrah Cailloux & Coccinelle: From the Walla Walla Valley in Washington, 14.3% alcohol; as Arpy might say, a mythical blend of California syrah and Crozes-Hermitage; olive, bacon and forest floor are somewhat stronger on the nose than the black fruit and wood spice elements; the same on the palate with more Old World flavors and textures than New – nonetheless, the ripeness levels are domestic, intense, concentrated, complex and well–balanced; good length. Once again, Copain delivers quality and, even more important, promise. Excellent wine. Best, Jim

Under $20, most substantially. Best, Jim

Aperitif: 2002 Brocard, Bourgogne Kimmeridgien: Viscous but fresh, ripe yet with cut, tart, balanced and persistent; not bad . . . Reminds me of village Chablis. Thanks Bill. With assorted cheeses: 2002 A. et P. De Villaine, Bourgogne Les Clos Blanc: Lighter, cleaner and more focused than the preceding wine but with better balance and precision. My preference of the two and, I suspect, more versatile with lighter fare. Charming wine. With roasted salmon and side dishes: 2000 David Bruce, Pinor Noir Sonoma County: Oaked to the point that the wood obscures the smell and taste of the fruit. A waste of grapes and money. and, 2002 A. et P. De Villaine, Bourgogne La Digoine Rouge: Translucent; clean on the nose and palate with brisk red cherry scents; crisp cherry and stone flavors, delineated (nearly strained) and a bit tight; clean after-taste. Not a complexity champion but much more enjoyable than the David Bruce. With vegetarian pizza: 2003 Foillard, Morgon Cote du Py: Red fruit, face powder and spice nose with hints of wax; completely ripe and rich (but not jammy) red fruit, good concentration and structure, no lack of acid but it doesn’t stick out either, very fine tannins, intense, no overt alcohol and a nicely balanced showing for such a youngster. Although Morgon is not my favorite appellation in Beaujolais, if this is representative of the vintage there, I will be trying others soon. and, 2003 Duboeuf, Moulin-a-Vent Dom. des Rosiers: Restrained on the nose and structured on the palate, this wine has less fruit and character than the foregoing, is more black fruit driven and less complex. There’s no banana scents or flavors, overt alcohol nor evident wood; it has enough acid and gives the impression that cellar time would be helpful. A well-made, tasty, hearty Beaujolais just below the level of the Foillard. With grilled chicken and sides: 2002 R. Chevillon, Passetoutgrains: The motor-sailer of wines, that is, a fusion that is, IMO, less than the sum of its original parts (in this case, pinot noir and gamay). Lightweight and a bit too tart in the fruit elements, moderately intense, little finish. I’m glad I tried it but this is not for me. Thanks Bill. With turkey sandwiches: 2002 A. et P. De Villaine, Bouzeron: My first aligote wine and nothing to get excited about. Clean and fresh but sort of diffuse and vinous on the palate with little complexity or finish. Okay, but little more. With grilled N.Y. strip and Caesar salad: 2000 Dom. de l’Olivette, Bandol: 75% mourvedre, 14% alcohol; a nose of olive, flowers, chocolate, red fruit and baby powder; big and dense on the palate with extraction, concentration and intensity, mouth-puckering tannins and an astringency that seems unrelated to the tannins; drying finish. This wine is obviously Bandol, clearly mouvedre based, definitely well-made but I will never buy it again; it does not go with the food I eat. Even with this dish it was over-powering. We had to go get cheese to be able to finish a glass. Perhaps, with ten years in the cellar . . . Best, Jim

For future reference (and/or calibration), we must have entirely different taste. While I have no doubt of their accuracy, none of these descriptors makes me want to try this wine. And at $85, I should be able to resist. Best, Jim

2002 Earl Alain Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vielles Vigne: The red fruit of the gamay is but an accent to the deep, penetrating black fruit and spice aromas, pure and lovely aromatics; medium weight and body, very deep dark fruit, spice and stone flavors with evident old vine intensity, good structure and concentration with very fine, grippy tannins, and, excellent balance; medium length. Reminds me of a young Volnay 1er with some extra high tones. Still closed and obviously young, this wine is a keeper. From vines, the youngest of which is over 85 years old, this is not your mama’s Beaujolais. Needs 5 years minimum. About $19. A Becky Wasserman selection. Best, Jim

Last night, Eric Solomon brought several of his portfolio’s wines, mostly from the Iberian Peninsula, to a formal tasting in Charlotte, NC. Mr. Solomon is passionate about his product, articulate in his presentation and clearly enjoys his work. My experience with Spanish wines runs to some Albarino, Muga and Lopez de Heredia; my experience in Portugal to port; so this was an eye-opening event. My comments should also be understood to have little context. These wines are a clear step toward the international style. Most saw French oak (except as otherwise noted), they are low production, extracted, alcoholic and, at least to some degree, polished, slick and glossy. But they are more convincing than what I expect of such wines. Perhaps, it is the low yields or the grape varieties or the age of the vines; whatever it is, these wines had character, were usually not over-wooded, the alcohol did not stick out, and, in many cases, they came across as well balanced. An impressive showing for this skeptic. Prices shown are suggested pre-sell wholesale in this market. Aperitif: 2003 Pazo de Senorans, Albarino (Galicia): 100% Albarino Penetrating aromatics; crisp, clean, almost edgy in the mouth with solid flavors and a touch of spice. Shows none of the affects of the 2003 heat. $23. First flight: 2003 Bodegas Senorio, Val de Sil (Galicia): 100% Godello Light floral nose with gum and spice tones; crisp and dry despite ripe fruit flavors, some minerality. No wood used; 60 year old vines. Reminiscent of Soave in a fresh, lyrical way. $19. 2002 Bodegas Senorio, Pezas da Portela (Galicia): 100% Godello Similar to the above wine with more viscosity, less focus and giving evidence of both alcohol and barrel. 100 year old vines. I would love to see this wine made in the same manner as the previous one as the concentration was certainly greater; but here it seems that technique interferes with nature. $40. 2000 Bodegas Estefania, Tilenus Pagos de Posada (Bierzo): 100% Mencia Described as pinot-esque by the speaker, I found this woody, spicy, astringent and unpleasant. 40-100 year old vines. $38. Others enjoyed it. 2001 Bienvenida de Vinos, Sitio de “El Palo” (Toro): 100% Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo) Dead on the nose, cheesy; corked on the palate. Others thought not. $48. The following four wines were served in a flight Mr. Solomon referred to as “cult wines” of Spain or as similar to right bank “garage wines.” As mentioned, they bore a resemblance to those wines from California or St. Emilion but they were different enough to persuade even me that such wines can be done well. And that, is saying something. 2001 Cellar Alemany i Corrio, Sot Lefriec (Penedes): 50% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Carignan Light but pleasant nose similar to a St. Emilion garage wine with a certain polish and integration; deep licorice and black fruit flavors with excellent concentration and intensity, soft tannins and good grip. Showing young but mouth-filling and tastes of old vine sap. Gracious, a Merlot based wine I like; what next? $67. 2001 Clos d’Agon, Tinto (Emporda): 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah Although showing fairly closed, this wine was remarkable. It smelled of CA syrah with focus (not really a contradiction in terms in the imagination), fruit cake spice, amazing density and integration, concentrated, intense, drying tannins. Pingus-esque, if you will. One glass will do me, unless we’re eating wild boar, but I would travel a long way to have that single glass. $77. 2001 Aalto Bodegas y Vinedos, Aalto (Ribero del Duero): 100% Tempranillo Another wine showing closed but a beautiful nose – floral, earthy, wood spice, utterly sublime; concentrated, intense, classy, great balance and the essence of Tempranillo; slightly woody on the finish. Glorious wine and truly interesting. $56. 2001 Bodegas Mustiguillo, Quincha Corral (Valencia): 96% Bobal, remainder Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon Closed nose with some light fruit; pinot-like texture in the mouth with high-toned flavors and a distinctly earthy character which I think one will either love or hate (I chose the latter), very fine tannins. 90 year old vines. $82. Next flight: 2003 Clos des Fees, Grenache Blanc (Roussillon): 45% Grenache Blanc, 45% Grenache Gris, 10% Maccabeu Soave-like smells and Muscat-like flavors, viscous texture, dry, some extra acidity on the finish. 100 year old vines. Somewhat non-descript. $19. 2003 Clos des Fees, Les Sorcieres (Roussillon): 50% Grenache Noir, 45% Carignan, 5% Syrah Translucent and a bit light on the nose but weightless in the mouth (despite substantial alcohol), Ruche-like flavors; an odd, earthy/dirt finish. A bit disjointed but interesting wine. Tank only. $21. 2001 Clos del Rey, Cotes du Roussillon (Roussillon): 60% Carignan, 40% Grenache Floral nose with lots of ripe fruit; mid-weight in the mouth with complex flavors, tannic structure; dry finish. A polished but not over-polished delivery showing great depth of flavor. 100 year old Carignan and 120 year old Grenache. Extraordinary concentration and integration, strong flavors, perfect balance; an extremely fine wine. $70. 2001 Calvet Thunevin, Cotes du Roussillon (Roussillon): 45% Grenache, 45% Carignan, 10% Syrah Henri Bonneau was the first thing I thought of when I smelled and tasted this wine; CdP-like in profile but tighter, more focused but still a little on the showy/refined side. 80 year old Grenache and Carignan. Good wine. $50. The final flight of reds was table wine (dry) made from very old port vineyards. 2001 Poeira, Poeira (Douro): Blend includes Touriga Nacional, Touriga Fransceca, Souzao, Tinta Cao and Tinta Roriz Port light nose; mineral and dark fruit on the palate with port-like flavors but not the alcohol, concentrated, intense, complex and very well balanced. I would love to taste this in twenty years; the balance makes me think it will make it in fine style. Very “of it’s place.” $50. 2001 Lavradores de Feitoria, Grande Escolha (Douro): Blend includes Touriga Nacional, Tina Roriz, Touriga Franca and Tinta Amarela Similar to the above wine more open and softer, it also has a sort of dirt flavor. 60-100 year old vines. Made by Dirk Nieport. I prefer the Poeira for its focus and flavor profile. $62. 2001 Wine & Soul, Pintas (Douro): 70 year old vineyard with over 30 traditional varieties Powerful, full-tilt wine with flavors similar to the above but with more extraction and power and less integration. Not my style. $63. Dessert wines:: Casa Santa Eufemia, White Port, harvest 1973 (Douro): Blend includes Malvasia, Moscatel and Cerceal This wine has been sitting in cask since 1973 and is bottled as ordered Smells like tawny port mixed with sherry; nutty, dried fruit, complex and very long. $69. 2002 Coume del Mas, Quintessence Banyuls (Roussillon): 100% Grenache Noir Fresh, lightly sweet and full of fruit. Yummy; where’s the cheese? $50. Best, Jim

On an evening that featured as pretty a sunset as I have ever seen, George came to dinner. With crackers and cheese: 2002 Weinrieder, Weissburgunder Hohenleiten II: 14.5% pinot blanc is not something I’m used to; sort of Sine Qua Non does pinot blanc. Deep gold, almost coppery; light honey and floral aromatics with some pineapple and stone accents; viscous, rich and bright in the mouth, somewhat alcoholic, concentrated and intense; too much alcohol cuts in on the mid-palate and the alcohol on the finish burns out some of the flavors there. Drink young and with food ‘cause the alcohol will kill this one fast. (14.5% is the stated alcohol on the label; I am betting it is actually well above that figure; two glasses of this and I’m hammered.) Thanks Bob. With meat loaf and mashed potatoes: 2001 Jamet, Cote-Rotie: Good, ripe syrah with discernable Cote-Rotie aromatics and some complexity but this is in pieces (interesting pieces, but pieces nonetheless) with some wood sticking out and a bit of “slick” to the package. I assume that I’m just too early to the party but this was less than I expected from this producer; perhaps, time will make the difference. Best, Jim

With crackers, cheese and red lentil spread: 2002 Weinreider, Riesling Bockgarten I: My first riesling from Weinvertel and an excellent one, at that. Clean, pure and focused; immediately identifiable as Austrian riesling with good density, structure and persistence. Brought back by hand. With salmon with lentils: Sine Qua Non, Pinot Noir ”M”: Wonderful nose of underbrush and fruit (very Oregon) but massive on the palate and 15.4% alcohol burns out some of the flavor and most of the finish. Others enjoyed it more than I. With grilled filet mignon, Swiss chard stems with cheese and roasted mushrooms: 1989 Chateau Lynch Bages: Decanted 6 hours; showing many layers of secondary development, fine balance, great elegance in the mouth and good length. On release, this wine reminded me more of a CA cab. with a texture that was plush and soft. No longer, it is very precise and delineated and comes across as almost light weight. Remarkable wine that is nowhere near fully developed. Excellent with the dish. With fresh pear-apple and cheeses: 2002 Ridge, Zinfandel Late Picked Pagani Ranch: 15.8% alcohol, .2% RS, 89% zin., 7% alicante boushet, 4% petite sirah; Plush and rich in the mouth without being overly raisined or prunish, concentrated and strongly flavored. Excellent wine with the cheese but one glass was enough for me. Best, Jim

2003 Mas Cal Demoura, Cote du Languedoc Rose: Integrated scents and flavors with excellent balance and a fineness about the texture that is something I seldom find in rose. Good at cellar temp. and as it warms. Alluring wine. Thanks Nathan. 2001 Copain, Pinot Noir Dennison Vineyard: With grilled chicken, acorn squash and olive couscous this wine crackled with fresh, vibrant fruit yet was deep, powerfully flavored and satin textured. Well concentrated and balanced, this shows nicely now and has a promising future. Once again this producer and vineyard excel. Best, Jim

1999 Fontanavecchia, Vigna Cataratte Riserva: After recently having this producer’s Grave Morae (surely the most abysmal wine I have tasted this year), I had low expectations. And this started off somewhat slick and glossy on the nose and palate with some noticeable oak. However, as it opened (which it never did completely) this wine showed more rustic with deeper flavors, substantial structure, somewhat grainy (but not drying) tannins and good persistence. The kind of wine to have with game, roasted meets or strong cheeses. We had it with pasta with gorgonzola and it was very nice, indeed. 2001 Alario Claudio, Docetto di Diano d’Alba Costa Fiore: Diane made grilled sandwiches on olive bread with pesto, tomato, fresh mozzarella and sautéed Portobello’s and this wine was perfect accompaniment. Powerfully scented with rich, somewhat tart fruit and substantial tannin, concentration sufficient to balance the structure and no overt wood. I doubt that Dolcetto will ever be my first choice but there is no denying that this combination improved both the wine and food. Thanks Nathan. Best, Jim

2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: Vibrant wine showing young; ripe fruit balanced against lively acids and under-pinned by moderate minerality, concentrated, intense, juicy, fresh and powerfully flavored without being heavy in the mouth; long finish. I would be curious to see how this ages but even though I have a case of it, I know it won’t last in my cellar. Real good wine. 1997 Sean Thackrey, Orion: Soy, Worcestershire sauce, nutmeg and raisins on both the nose and palate, concentrated, intense, disjointed and tiring. Neither Diane nor I could finish a glass. Doesn’t even go with strongly flavored cheese. Best, Jim

Try this: www.dolium.com Best, Jim

True enough. I think you will be very pleased, indeed. I have attended many tastings in my wine life; I have never walked away from one with more delight than this one. Quality and price - how often does that happen? There is going to be a lot of Dolium in my cellar and, on the strength of the quality I tasted, I am planning to visit the winery later next year. I was, to put it gently, most impressed. Best, Jim

As of today, Mutual Distributing Co. in Raleigh, NC, has released its newest line-up of wines imported from Argentina, Dolium. This winery was recently featured in the NY Times, Sunday Edition and will be featured in an upcoming issue of the Wine Spectator that covers the wines of Argentina. I got to taste through the line-up of wines that came into the market this morning and my impressions follow. At the $6, wholesale price point, a rose of malbec, malbec, tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon are offered. The rose was delicious and strongly flavored, the malbec was structured and tannic with good fruit, the tempranillo was quite forward and delicious, and, the cab. was solid and more nuanced than I would expect at this price. None of these wines showed any overt oak and all would drink well now save the malbec, which needs some decanter time or cellaring. At the $9, wholesale price point, a syrah and sauvignon blanc are offered. The sauvignon blanc was more round and fleshy than is my preference but it was varietally correct and good to go now. The syrah was truly remarkable with a structure that reminded me of Crozes-Hermitage and ripe fruit that was forward but not over-done. This was my pick as the best of the line-up and I immediately ordered quite a bit of it. At the $16, wholesale price point was a reserve cab. and a reserve malbec. These were more polished examples of their respective varietals and each had finer tannins and more evident, but not overdone, oak treatment. They were also deeper flavored and clearly less rustic than the other bottlings. All of these wines are 100% of its variety and at a quality level far in excess of its price point. And although each reported on the label that alcohol was either 14% or 14.5%, there was never any alcoholic heat noticeable and little if any raisining. I highly recommend that you seek out these wines and try them – I was very impressed with the concentration and balance of these wines, at all price points, and I will be ordering quite a number of these by the case. Best, Jim

With turkey sandwiches: 2002 J. P. Brun Terres Dorees, Beaujolais L’Ancien VV: Pure wine; focused black and red cherry scents and flavors accented with mineral and spice tones; becomes more integrated the longer it is in the glass. Authentic, delicious, clean and intense; a delight. With cheese and crackers: 2001 Raveneau, Chablis Butteaux: Grand cru depth on both the nose and palate with ripe fruit and a touch of spice on the nose and some butter flavors (but not texture) on the palate, concentrated, quite intense, good balance. The nose is very expansive and although this has not yet come together, the elements are all here. Really quite something. With chicken, broccoli, olives, onions and feta over couscous: 2000 R. & V. Dauvissat, Chablis Les Clos: Not as intense as the foregoing but better integrated and more elegantly complex; excellent depth and balance with a long, beautiful finish that reprises the ripeness present in the mouth. Harmonious in a way the Raveneau was not; a wine forming a complete sphere. Delicious. With crackers and cheese: 1999 Gaja, Sitorey: 14% alcohol, 100% Barbera; slick and new wave glossy on the nose and palate, well-balanced and fruit driven, some oak but not overwhelming, the palate impression is that this juice is somehow processed rather than fermented; medium length finish. Not a bad beverage but nothing I would ever buy. With sushi: 2000 Nikolaihof, Riesling Steiner Hund: Glorious wine (or is that “nectar”); fully open although not carrying the kind of complexity that further aging could provide, round and full in the mouth but utterly weightless, ripe fruit and mineral accents, good depth and a sort of floral freshness, perfect balance. Finesse thy name is stone dog. With pasta with brown butter and pine nuts: 2001 B. Giacosa, Nebbiolo D’Alba Valmaggiore: Talc and raspberry nose along with the typical flowers and tar elements; medium body with an elegant delivery and flavors that follow the nose, powdery tannins are slightly drying, nice intensity and balance. Lightweight in the mouth and just plain perfect with the dish. With cheese: 1993 Blackwood Canyon, Late Harvest Semillon (375): Idiosyncratic stuff; somewhat oxidized, not as sweet as 4% RS would imply, flavors of overripe pears, lanolin, green tea, honey and tree bark (or at least, impressions of those), somewhat disjointed and unbalanced. An odd thing I would not want more than a small pour of – but I wouldn’t want to miss the chance to taste it either. Best, Jim

What does that mean? Ann Colgin owns land in Burgundy? It boggles the mind . . . 99 was such a terrific year for Barolo and Barbaresco; every bottle I've tried from that vintage has been impressive. Best, Jim

With grilled chicken and sautéed wild mushrooms: 1999 Lafarge, Volnay Vendage Selectionnees: Aromatically tight but also penetrating with strong black cherry scents and some earth tones, primary; tannic on the palate with good depth, concentration and flavors that follow the nose, slightly clipped at mid-palate; drying but flavorful finish. Hard to say what the future holds; the tannins are substantial. Good with the dish. With mixed grilled of seafood: 2000 J.P. Droin, Chablis Vaudesir: Almost painful in intensity with stony, citrus and lemon skin scents and a light floral overlay; focused flavors follow the nose with very bright acids; mouthwatering finish. This bottle was less evolved than another of the same tasted recently. Excellent with the dish. With assorted cheeses and trout spread on crackers: 2002 Donnhoff, Riesling Qba: Not too sweet, 9.5% alcohol and unmistakably Nahe riesling. Lovely wine with or without food. With homemade pizzas: 1993 Rockland, Petite Sirah: Beginning some secondary development, has shed virtually all of its oak and has a stone-fruit driven palate. One of the better renditions of this grape I have tasted. With assorted cheeses: 1998 Paradigm, Cabernet Sauvignon: Well, I’ll be damned! Delicious wine without overt oak, lots of juicy fruit but no over-extraction, doesn’t feel like it went through a milk shake maker (or the technical equivalent), has good cut and is bright across the palate, has some complexity, and, it is very well-balanced. I am shocked and amazed. So this is a bad vintage . . . Best, Jim