Margaret Pilgrim

Then do it yourself! In the south of France, our favorite hostess not infrequently serves a tart of boudin noir and apples with champagne aperitif. Heaven! One of the best restaurant soups I ever had was a veloute of 'swede' with cubes of foie gras and croutons of pain d'epice. Lovely.

Write the chef a letter with your praise and opinions. Consider that the person who is chatting and being photographed with the chef is taking the chef out of the kitchen when he might be addressing your meal. In many dining rooms, the chef will circulate at the end of the last service. If this kind of communication is important to you, you might consider booking for the last seating.

Of course you are correct. Michelin has been the gold standard since its advent. I used a much broader interpretation, so as to include idiosyncratic rooms such as Bistro du Paradou, Can Peio, perhaps pierre45's le relais de monseret, menton's good address in Gramat, and other places best described as delightful, if not of Michelin caliber.

I am grateful that this thread has been revived, Pierre45. I had overlooked your specific references in earlier posts. I have pulled up the website for le relais de monseret, and would love to hear your personal descriptions and thoughts. Many thanks.

The classic dish contains 'paneer', or a very simple fresh slim-milk cheese cut into cubes. Divine.

Precisely. We await with much interest Patterson's expression of new cuisine as he invisions it and creates the menu of his next venue. No?

If you just wander in and ask for a recommendation for any area, you will be lovingly received, rewarded with an honest opinion and most probably invited to try whatever wines they have open that day. A sweet address.

See if you can get a brochure with their locations. Their website is neat but uninformative as to "where to get/buy." ← I have scoured the site and can't see that they have any retail outlet outside of yours in Lyon. Lucky you! How I wish they would come to Paris!

Lucy, I don't think that I am out of line asking precisely what do you pay for a bean from them? For a number of years, before they 'disappeared', I bought excellent vanilla beans by the dozen from the islanders at the Paris Fermier Show, where the price was something under a euro a bean. Pas mal, non? Since they have not set up at recent shows, I would love another good source.

Just so that you don't fall into a poppy induced slumber, realize that you haven't sampled the modern scents/flavors (mint, linen, wheat, and honey) from IUNX, 48-50 RUE DE L'UNIVERSITÉ, SEVENTH ARR.; 33-1/45-44-50-14. I went chasing after a cardamom, black pepper, et al mellange, but on the day of my arrival, they offered cherry blossom and a tropical scent. But, perfume flavored macarons? Mais, oui!

Yes! From Mission Street, walk into the mini-mall (Mission Market) that is behind La Altena. There are two large shops in the back, on the south side you'll find lots of pork and pork products plus a good selection of red meats. This is where I buy slab bacon. (It seems that today most bacon is presliced in the packing houses before it is shipped out to shops.) Lovely bone-in side meat for choucroute, etc. On the north side is a shop that specializes in poultry, rabbits, fish, etc. They sell two sizes rabbit: frying and stewing, nice touch. Specialty poultry looks good also. I would spend a lot more of my meat dollar between these two shops were they not so far from my house; as it is, I make special trips when I need one of their specialties.

Perhaps we are arriving at something close to my theory. Centuries ago, country people enjoyed fresh cheeses. City people encountered them (the cheeses) later in their (the cheese's) life. Few poor city people could afford them. Royalty could. Royalty were served older cheeses. They acclaimed these aged cheeses. Those around the court and those who could afford the cheese that arrived in the cities established the proper afinage of certain cheeses. Nice fairytale, anyway, non? It does explain why some cheese that is delicately delicious when it is new is sought when it is profoundly 'aged'.

We were served a lovely Mont d'or a couple of weeks ago at dinner in the home of French friends. Yes, by spoon. It was well beyond chalkiness, but had no hint of ammonia. I asked where they had found it, and they said that the cheese purveyer at their weekly village market untypically sold quite superior and properly aged cheeses. He has a market for and therefore brings special cheese that he knows he will easily sell.

nyokie6, I think this is a wonderful idea! It is, in fact, much the way we travel in France. I recently came across (Vin et Cuisine magazine, #106, October '05) a hearty endorsement for one address that may work with your plans. In the tiny village of Denice in Beaujolais, Sylvaine and Bruno Chevalier offer one 3-epis room at 61 euros per night for two people, including breakfast. They also offer an evening meal by reservation for 20 euros each. We have met some of the most interesting people in this way, enjoyed a room more comfortable than we would have found in a local hotel, and learned much about regional cooking. While English is usually limited or non-existent, good-will is a universal language. Sylvaine et Bruno Chevalier Pouilly-la-Chatel 69640 DENICE br.chevalier@free fr

Your request for the unusual brings instantly to my mind Les Magnolias, located in the Paris suburb of Le Perreux sur Marne, a 30 minute RER ride from central Paris' Haussmann-St.Lazare station. Jean Chauvel is most often compared to Gagnaire in his unusual use of ingredients. There is an article on him in the Oct-Nov 2005 (French) Saveurs magazine. His food, like Gagnaire's, is not for everyone, and while you may be flabbergasted, you should certainly not be bored. (edited to correct error in magazine credit)

Oh, yes. In fact, this same hostess often serves individual molds of fromage blanc with a rose-scented syrup and raspberries at breakfast. And I have often included blossoms such as nasturtium in salads; violets go without saying. But the coquelicot really knocked our socks off!

One morning at breakfast our hostess in the south of France shared with us some of the most delicious red jelly I have ever tasted, kind of like the most exotic berry/cherry combination you could imagine. It put anything I have had from Herme to shame. We tried hard not to clean the bowl each day. She explained that it was made with the petals of the ordinary red poppy of the fields, although it took hundreds of flowers and three hours of simmering to create a large jar of the confiture. Back in Paris, I ran into two cookbooks, one from Lenotre and the other Marc Veyrat, using coquelicot as a savory accent, eg in a sauce for a mild fish and in a citrus salad. At Le Derniere Goute, the left bank wine shop, Herve was explaining to us the biologique, or biodynamique as he prefers, movement among many vintnors. The outcome of farmers' stopping using chemical herbicides in the vineyards and fields is that the red poppy is returning to France. So I wonder if perhaps the coquelicot might be something that might make a small appearance in country markets, like the small offerings of field greens that country people forrage. Also, can anyone tell me if the coquelicot is really quite ordinary in France and it is merely new to me? And, if so, how do you use it?

Raisa, my bag reads: "Instructions for use for one cup: In a saucepan, boil 7.5 ounces of water. On low heat add into the boiling water 2.5 ounces of chocolate and stir gently. For a cremer (their spelling) cholocate, simmer on low heat for some seconds and serve. For a thinner chocolate just add water." These instructions were on the SIDE or inverted pleat of the package, in French on the other side. Enjoy.

Culinista has it right. While we didn't attend this season's, in the past I have found that one either does "dive into the vats" as suggested or walks around in Culinista's "chocolate fumes", eventually leaving with little as souvenir. I think it takes at least one of these shows to teach you how to plan your visit to the next one. And I'm the chocoholic in the family. My husband just stands there looking dazed!

I really like Busboy's link, but the limited range of the current recommendations made me wonder what we could assemble if we, here on eGullet, put together just such a list (non-starred, 'simpa' dining rooms that are full of locals, good food, inexpensive or good value. As starters, here are a couple of places, several certainly not virgin discoveries, that have pleased us during the past year (2005). In Provence: Le Bistrot du Paradou, 57, avenue de la Vallee des Baux Paradou 04.90.54.32.70 tel and fax. I know, I know. Peter Mayle turned this place into a zoo, but the tourist mobs have fled to newer and more hip destinations now, and on several visits this year, we were the only English-speaking people there. The food is well prepared classic stuff: roast chicken, leg of lamb, sliced rack of lamb. The meal is the same at lunch and dinner. 39 euros. That sounds steep, but it includes choice of escargot or composed salad, large daily plate, very large cheese plateau that is left at your table perhaps 5 minutes, choice of some half dozen desserts, a full bottle of either red or white local wine, coffee. The service is happy as are all of the other diners. In Gard/Langdoque: Can Peio, Gare de Junas-Aujargues, Junas-Aujargues (near Sommieres), 04.66.77.72.83. Can Peio, a Catalan bistrot, located in an old railroad station. The dining room is darling: white, tall windows, lots of sunshine, beautiful tile floors, hams hanging from the rafters, sweet service. The food is authentic (good ham, octopus, rabbit, lamb, peppers, prawns) and unusual to the French palate. We have visited twice, and will return although the food is not as endearing as the ambience. Good pot wines. Probably about 25 euros a person. In l'Yonne/Bourgogne: Hotel de la Poste, 149, Grande Rue, Vincelles. 03.86.42.22.63 Now we get to type of place that I hope to discover in this thread. The first time we stopped this place, we were looking for a simple Sunday night supper after a long drive. My husband went in to check it out, came back to the car and grunted, "It's just a grubby bar. All men, no food." So we wound up at an awful place across the river that served pretentious food at outragious prices. On a later trip, we drove by at noon to find that the place was teaming with locals, enjoying good looking plates. The format: 11 euro menu includes a run at the 'salad bar' (an entire counter in the bar + the contents of an adjacent refrigerator including the normal grated carrots, celery rave, beets, hard boiled eggs, olives and pickles, marinated fish, several cheeses, sausages and some excellent country ham). There are two choices in main plate, one vegetarian, one meat. On our two visits, the choices were lasagna or braised beef with carrots, couscous or veal with basque sauce and pasta. Small cheese course. Desserts are generic but not bad. With a little wine, a tab for two hovered around 27 euros. Also in l'Yonne/Bourgogne: La Coup du Fren, center of the village of Tannere en Puysaye near St. Fargeau. Another 'bar-in-the-daytime' find. I don't know about lunch at this place, but dinner is adorable. There is seating in the back garden, in a small dining room or in the bar. Simple plates like andouillette, ham Chablisienne, entrocote/frites are all good, especially considering the 15 to 20 euro 3 - 4 course menu at night. Good local wines, darling service (by the second night, the waiter had adopted us). We ended one evening with a quite nice and decently priced Deribaucourt (label) calvados. In Ain: Auberge du Mail, center of the village of Chazey sur Ain, southeast of Meximieux or Perouges. I asked our hostess to book at a restaurant that I had read about, but her face told me that she thought little of my choice. I followed her recommendation and was rewarded with the Auberge. This is another gathering place for locals who come for the generous plates of salad with poached egg and lardons, enormous casseroles of frog legs, meltingly tender veal steaks with cream sauce, rowboat sized individual portions of scalloped potatoes, followed by a sizable cheese plateau and dessert. With wine and coffee, 47 euros for 2. Another place where we were somehow adopted by the hosts. Most of these small places have no experience with English-speakers, much less Americans, and we have been treated to extraordinary hospitality. These are my only addresses that are current enough to post. We spend a fair amount of time in the boonies, and I, for one, would love to see a growing list of unexpected places that have pleased. Contrary to what Michelin would have us believe, I think that there are many such places out there that are well worth a small detour if only we knew about them.

The almost black and white opinions on L'Ami Louis underscore the real necessity to "know yourself" when it comes to picking a restaurant. I find it interesting that there have been almost no lukewarm or neutral opinions on L'AL, only those who find it the quintessential bistrot and those who find it, well, precisely not that. Perhaps Pierre's comments are best taken by the uninitiated as a flag that they collect more opinion, or walk in, presumably to make a reservation, and survey the scene and ambiance before committing to a table here. Actually, whenever time allows, we do that before booking any new address regardless of its reviews.

Does anyone have any actual experience buying anything at Genin? I have been told that he provides professionals, will allow people off the street access to his atelier and even offer them samples, but will not sell to them. Was this an isolated case or is it his habit?

Everything you say is true. I should explain that it is only the book that is drawing us to this area of Lot/Quercy. I am essentially trying to string many weekend events in August together by finding interesting places to nest in in between. Hence, several days within a short day's drive of Angouileme. And then I read the book, and... well, you get the idea.

We have, over the years, gone on every day. It's crowded at opening and mid-day, but not so as to hamper your looking or shopping. My advice is to dress lightly and in layers, as the room can get very warm, and to make sure you bring several large carrier bags, as you will undoubtedly buy more than you anticipate. We often make two rounds: one to look and sample, and the second to buy our favorites. Also, as in any fair, keep notes on which stalls you wish to revisit because by the end you will be both physically and mentally sated. Enjoy.

I enjoyed the book also, hence the interest in the village and restaurant. To be honest, the food as described in the book does not sound very good (too much emphasis on non-local prioduct), but the spirit of the kitchen and dining room is endearing. In my mind, this is the book that Peter Mayle could have written but didn't. This is fine with us. In fact, it is exactly what we try to experience. I am working on summer 2006. We would be taking a sidetrip from Angouleme for a few days prior to an event near Cognac in the first week of September.