Margaret Pilgrim

I think we aren't talking about manners, but of cultural expressions. Americans tend to have the idea that as paying consumers, they have the right to define what they are buying, whether it's a new suit or a meal. When travelling abroad, however, we need to change our orientation from consumer to that of guest, which involves an entirely different set of parameters. The active willingness to perceive and accept the habits of our hosts goes a long way to paving the way for a mutually satisfying visit.

We have found that the stringency of customs inspectors varies all over the board. We sailed through Dulles this week with no questioning at all although we marked that we were carrying food items; at SFO, if you indicate that you have any kind of food at all (chocolate, jam, etc.), you will probably be subjected to questions pertaining to any and all kinds of canned goods you might be carrying, specifically if any are of any meat product. The last inspector I asked said that foie gras was not allowed, nor any poultry product in any form. However, I have no faith that there is consistency among inspectors at any given port, much less at different ports. It is an annoying and risky situation when you are gambling on which inspector you will draw and how he will interpret the law.

It starts out that way. But you would be surprised at the number of people who, when presented with a quarter of a round cheese, will cut off the point. I once had a hostess actually gasp when she saw a visiter do this, although she quickly tried to cover her reaction.

Although I had known of it for years, Tuesday saw our first visit to G. Detou, Epicerie just off the Montorguiel market street. This is a tiny shop that sells both retail and wholesale qauntities of wonderful things: chocolate (Valrhona, Michel Cluzel, etc.), marrons, exotic mushrooms, griottes in kirsch, candied violets, all kinds of sweet and savory confitures, and so on. Customers where snatching up beautifully boxed chocolates and wrapped candied chestnuts, while others stocked up on luxury ingredients for holiday specialties. It was early evening on our last day, and I hadn't presence of mind to take advantage of this unexpected but extraordinary shopping opportunity with the exception of a sealed container of 10 vanilla pods for 10,10 euros, very cheap indeed. On top of it all, the staff is very cordial and helpful. I will definitely put this shop on the top of my next shopping spree. Detou 58, rue Tiquetonne Paris 2e 01.40.39.96.43

Perhaps this is not out-and-out "rudeness" per se, but I can see that retaining the wedge shape would be the proper thing to do. I'm assuming that you are talking about the center, not a "tip" on the outside - so if you cut off just the tip on the inside of the wheel, you are avoiding rind and leaving it for others. ← I believe that the logic is that when one cuts a slice of cheese as we a pie, i.e., taking a wedge from crust to center, all diners are able to share all parts of the cheese, from crust though all of the gradations of the cheese's pate. When one person cuts off the center point, he takes all of that texture for himself. One should note that various cheeses have traditional cutting rules, not all adhere to the wedge rule. It's not easy...

We attended last Saturday. It was literally fabulous, probably the size of 3 to 4 of the fall Fermier shows, with many more prestige items. There is a pan-European presence with aisles dedicated to Italian products as well as a smaller representation from Spanish, German, Polish producers. We bought an eclectic assortment that ranged from the best violet mustard I have found to Duval's classic andouillettes, with truffle butter, jars of caramel and German pumpkin seed oil along the way. I would actually plan the timing of a visit to coincide with this event, coupled with the Vignorons Independent expo the previous weekend. I didn't catch the Figaro Madame article, but, trust me, there are many hundreds of reasons to go!

Degusto, I realize that you were asking Robert Talbott, but since we had similar reactions, I will describe ours. We visited L'Astrance when it had been open about 6 months. We ordered off the carte, and were charmed by every course. We returned 6 months later, and, because of our previous enjoyment, ordered a tasting menu. To answer your question specifically, I would have to say that our disappointment was one of taste. There was nothing wrong with quality or technique, but a repeated silent questioning, "Why would the chef think that we would want to eat this? I remember several courses as being simply uninteresting, and one that was actually unappealing: a puree of roast pork served in a small pottery coffee cup, topped with a searingly hot melted cheese (comte?) and cornichon ice cream. The cheese drew threads like pizza, making eating the combination almost impossible, the pork was disgusting. The ice cream was rather interesting, but could not by itself pull the dish together. From what I have read, I believe that the kitchen has become stronger in its ability to provide innovation without the valleys of some of its early experimentation. We haven't been back to find out.

John, when we visited Les Papilles last month they were serving a multigenerational party of around 12 in a basement dining room. The no choice menu actually lends itself to serving a large table. The staff seemed to handle service to both the downstairs party and upstairs dining room without hitch or delays. In addition, there is a table for 6, maybe 8, in the very back of the street level dining room on a kind of dais or elevated nook. We have seen several festive parties at that table.

YEA! Many, many thanks for every response. We do have an apartment this visit, and will make every effort to shop and report back on GL. I won't mind the trudge through the predicted snow and rain if there really is a there there. Again, thanks.

Ten years ago or so, before Bon Marchés expansion, GL had a superb food hall with counter service adjacent to several departments (eg, cheese plates next to the cheese department, charcuterie next to that department, etc.). The shelf stock of general epicerie items was excellent. It was located, as I remember, upstairs a floor or on a mezzanine. We went looking for it earlier this year and could find only a street level area that sold a few not-very-interesting traiteur items, some premade sandwiches, and the like. The shelf stock was made up of a few fancyfood and gift items. There was a small cave, and lots of kitchen and dining room accessories. Although we asked every sales and concierge person we could find, this was the only area we were directed to. Can anyone tell me if GL did indeed do away with their comprehensive food hall, or did we just miss it? My underlying question is whether GL is now a viable source for food products or only a gift shop. Many thanks.

3/4 to 1 1/4...what measurement...please?

Or Patricia Wells So can she!

A triperie might be a source satisfactory to both of you.

We have heard exactly this response from friends in the past few years. Some historical places are best experienced from pictures in old books while sitting in front of a fire at home. Désolé.

Many of the disappointing parts of the meal you described are things we have all unhappily endured from time to time. But I am literally flabbergasted that anyone would try to reuse a wine bottle except in the well-understood case of a house 'pot' or as a pichet. It is unquestionably fraud. (I was insensed enough years ago when 'madame', a 'bonne maman', gave us recycled single serving jam jars at breakfast.) Have any other readers had such an occurrance?

The definition of any successful business executive. Although in my experience, the talent was necessary, not merely useful.

Then do it yourself! In the south of France, our favorite hostess not infrequently serves a tart of boudin noir and apples with champagne aperitif. Heaven! One of the best restaurant soups I ever had was a veloute of 'swede' with cubes of foie gras and croutons of pain d'epice. Lovely.

Write the chef a letter with your praise and opinions. Consider that the person who is chatting and being photographed with the chef is taking the chef out of the kitchen when he might be addressing your meal. In many dining rooms, the chef will circulate at the end of the last service. If this kind of communication is important to you, you might consider booking for the last seating.

Of course you are correct. Michelin has been the gold standard since its advent. I used a much broader interpretation, so as to include idiosyncratic rooms such as Bistro du Paradou, Can Peio, perhaps pierre45's le relais de monseret, menton's good address in Gramat, and other places best described as delightful, if not of Michelin caliber.

I am grateful that this thread has been revived, Pierre45. I had overlooked your specific references in earlier posts. I have pulled up the website for le relais de monseret, and would love to hear your personal descriptions and thoughts. Many thanks.

The classic dish contains 'paneer', or a very simple fresh slim-milk cheese cut into cubes. Divine.

Precisely. We await with much interest Patterson's expression of new cuisine as he invisions it and creates the menu of his next venue. No?

If you just wander in and ask for a recommendation for any area, you will be lovingly received, rewarded with an honest opinion and most probably invited to try whatever wines they have open that day. A sweet address.

See if you can get a brochure with their locations. Their website is neat but uninformative as to "where to get/buy." ← I have scoured the site and can't see that they have any retail outlet outside of yours in Lyon. Lucky you! How I wish they would come to Paris!

Lucy, I don't think that I am out of line asking precisely what do you pay for a bean from them? For a number of years, before they 'disappeared', I bought excellent vanilla beans by the dozen from the islanders at the Paris Fermier Show, where the price was something under a euro a bean. Pas mal, non? Since they have not set up at recent shows, I would love another good source.