Margaret Pilgrim

My husband is not a fan of big red wines, so I am often left with 2/3 of a bottle. I read someplace that the perfect woman in France always drinks a third of the bottle but never more than half. So just for appearances, I really should leave some, non? That is one reason we enjoy some of the winebars that encourage you to buy interesting stuff and take home the corked remains. It's nice to hear that this might become more widely accepted.

Another question about wine service. When dining alone and sharing a bottle of wine at dinner, my husband and I often (perhaps not often enough) face a leftover quantity. My husband usually serves it, although we both know that it won't be drunk. I feel that excess quantity should remain in the bottle, which can then, in very informal settings, be handed over to a neighboring table, sampled by staff or tossed into the house vinegar pot. What's right?

I actually carry one, but not the one on food! The newly determined security list of "what you can take with you and in which bag you have to put it", since I was releaved of a tiny pair of beautiful and expensive rounded-point scissors that I carelessly left in my carry-on at CDG a couple of years ago.

Thank you for this excellent reference!

Lucy, perhaps you are thinking about a soapstone griddle. The one shown is rather tarted up, but I have seen many simple ones at brocantes in France.

Thank you for this lovely, and finally reasonable, explanation of the custom.

I can only go by my own experience, but I think that our French acquaintances are more social with staff than either we or our friends are at home. I'm not sure I see your inference or how this applies or to what. ← I am confused. I thought the question was about the extent to which diners initiate conversation, not that which is started by the server. The French we dine out with are longtime clients of the restaurants they patronize, and as such may well ask Madame about the health of her aged mother or progress of a child. At more formal places, they again will have some existing relationship with the front of house. But you are absolutely right: the average Frenchperson would be appalled at the in-your-face intimacy of many casual American restaurant servers. We are also confusing the customer/guest point. I said not that Americans behaved as customers and French as guests, but that Americans often demand the rights of a consumer when they would be better served were they to adopt the attitude of a guest.

I can only go by my own experience, but I think that our French acquaintances are more social with staff than either we or our friends are at home. I'm not sure I see your inference or how this applies or to what.

Ginette Boyer's 'le Petit Tonneau'? Simple but adorable.

I think we aren't talking about manners, but of cultural expressions. Americans tend to have the idea that as paying consumers, they have the right to define what they are buying, whether it's a new suit or a meal. When travelling abroad, however, we need to change our orientation from consumer to that of guest, which involves an entirely different set of parameters. The active willingness to perceive and accept the habits of our hosts goes a long way to paving the way for a mutually satisfying visit.

We have found that the stringency of customs inspectors varies all over the board. We sailed through Dulles this week with no questioning at all although we marked that we were carrying food items; at SFO, if you indicate that you have any kind of food at all (chocolate, jam, etc.), you will probably be subjected to questions pertaining to any and all kinds of canned goods you might be carrying, specifically if any are of any meat product. The last inspector I asked said that foie gras was not allowed, nor any poultry product in any form. However, I have no faith that there is consistency among inspectors at any given port, much less at different ports. It is an annoying and risky situation when you are gambling on which inspector you will draw and how he will interpret the law.

It starts out that way. But you would be surprised at the number of people who, when presented with a quarter of a round cheese, will cut off the point. I once had a hostess actually gasp when she saw a visiter do this, although she quickly tried to cover her reaction.

Although I had known of it for years, Tuesday saw our first visit to G. Detou, Epicerie just off the Montorguiel market street. This is a tiny shop that sells both retail and wholesale qauntities of wonderful things: chocolate (Valrhona, Michel Cluzel, etc.), marrons, exotic mushrooms, griottes in kirsch, candied violets, all kinds of sweet and savory confitures, and so on. Customers where snatching up beautifully boxed chocolates and wrapped candied chestnuts, while others stocked up on luxury ingredients for holiday specialties. It was early evening on our last day, and I hadn't presence of mind to take advantage of this unexpected but extraordinary shopping opportunity with the exception of a sealed container of 10 vanilla pods for 10,10 euros, very cheap indeed. On top of it all, the staff is very cordial and helpful. I will definitely put this shop on the top of my next shopping spree. Detou 58, rue Tiquetonne Paris 2e 01.40.39.96.43

Perhaps this is not out-and-out "rudeness" per se, but I can see that retaining the wedge shape would be the proper thing to do. I'm assuming that you are talking about the center, not a "tip" on the outside - so if you cut off just the tip on the inside of the wheel, you are avoiding rind and leaving it for others. ← I believe that the logic is that when one cuts a slice of cheese as we a pie, i.e., taking a wedge from crust to center, all diners are able to share all parts of the cheese, from crust though all of the gradations of the cheese's pate. When one person cuts off the center point, he takes all of that texture for himself. One should note that various cheeses have traditional cutting rules, not all adhere to the wedge rule. It's not easy...

We attended last Saturday. It was literally fabulous, probably the size of 3 to 4 of the fall Fermier shows, with many more prestige items. There is a pan-European presence with aisles dedicated to Italian products as well as a smaller representation from Spanish, German, Polish producers. We bought an eclectic assortment that ranged from the best violet mustard I have found to Duval's classic andouillettes, with truffle butter, jars of caramel and German pumpkin seed oil along the way. I would actually plan the timing of a visit to coincide with this event, coupled with the Vignorons Independent expo the previous weekend. I didn't catch the Figaro Madame article, but, trust me, there are many hundreds of reasons to go!

Degusto, I realize that you were asking Robert Talbott, but since we had similar reactions, I will describe ours. We visited L'Astrance when it had been open about 6 months. We ordered off the carte, and were charmed by every course. We returned 6 months later, and, because of our previous enjoyment, ordered a tasting menu. To answer your question specifically, I would have to say that our disappointment was one of taste. There was nothing wrong with quality or technique, but a repeated silent questioning, "Why would the chef think that we would want to eat this? I remember several courses as being simply uninteresting, and one that was actually unappealing: a puree of roast pork served in a small pottery coffee cup, topped with a searingly hot melted cheese (comte?) and cornichon ice cream. The cheese drew threads like pizza, making eating the combination almost impossible, the pork was disgusting. The ice cream was rather interesting, but could not by itself pull the dish together. From what I have read, I believe that the kitchen has become stronger in its ability to provide innovation without the valleys of some of its early experimentation. We haven't been back to find out.

John, when we visited Les Papilles last month they were serving a multigenerational party of around 12 in a basement dining room. The no choice menu actually lends itself to serving a large table. The staff seemed to handle service to both the downstairs party and upstairs dining room without hitch or delays. In addition, there is a table for 6, maybe 8, in the very back of the street level dining room on a kind of dais or elevated nook. We have seen several festive parties at that table.

YEA! Many, many thanks for every response. We do have an apartment this visit, and will make every effort to shop and report back on GL. I won't mind the trudge through the predicted snow and rain if there really is a there there. Again, thanks.

Ten years ago or so, before Bon Marchés expansion, GL had a superb food hall with counter service adjacent to several departments (eg, cheese plates next to the cheese department, charcuterie next to that department, etc.). The shelf stock of general epicerie items was excellent. It was located, as I remember, upstairs a floor or on a mezzanine. We went looking for it earlier this year and could find only a street level area that sold a few not-very-interesting traiteur items, some premade sandwiches, and the like. The shelf stock was made up of a few fancyfood and gift items. There was a small cave, and lots of kitchen and dining room accessories. Although we asked every sales and concierge person we could find, this was the only area we were directed to. Can anyone tell me if GL did indeed do away with their comprehensive food hall, or did we just miss it? My underlying question is whether GL is now a viable source for food products or only a gift shop. Many thanks.

3/4 to 1 1/4...what measurement...please?

Or Patricia Wells So can she!

A triperie might be a source satisfactory to both of you.

We have heard exactly this response from friends in the past few years. Some historical places are best experienced from pictures in old books while sitting in front of a fire at home. Désolé.

Many of the disappointing parts of the meal you described are things we have all unhappily endured from time to time. But I am literally flabbergasted that anyone would try to reuse a wine bottle except in the well-understood case of a house 'pot' or as a pichet. It is unquestionably fraud. (I was insensed enough years ago when 'madame', a 'bonne maman', gave us recycled single serving jam jars at breakfast.) Have any other readers had such an occurrance?

The definition of any successful business executive. Although in my experience, the talent was necessary, not merely useful.