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Thanks for the nice report, K. Why the gallon of water?

Yes, the meals were quite awhile ago. The rest of your post makes sense to me, too.

Soba, I didn't say where the Sichuan peppercorns were obtained is something that should have been mentioned in the article, just that it raised my eyebrows that they have a way of getting them. But I continue to find it odd for someone named Mohan Ismail to be identified as "Malaysian-Chinese." Seems about as odd as calling someone with an obviously Chinese-sounding full name a German-American. Hmmm....I'm wondering whether what Sifton means by "Malaysian-Chinese" is that his father is a Malaysian Muslim and his mother is Chinese (from Malaysia or somewhere else? Perhaps Thailand?)... So far, no-one's opinion has persuaded me to go to Spice Market, but I don't start off as neutral when a new Vongerichten "Asian" restaurant opens, since I remember my two meals at Vong. So for any positive review to have much impact with me, it would help for it to be written by someone who has expertise with the "original" versions of some of the dishes cooked there, and in that connection, some knowledge about their "places of origin" would help. I hope nobody misunderstands me. I don't mean to suggest that for a person to have good taste, that person has to have travelled a lot or know a lot about whatever cuisine they're consuming, but I'm sure connoiseurs of French food would be the first to say that some knowledge and experience helps a person to better understand and appreciate the cuisine, and the same is true of Asian cuisines. It's best for a reviewer to have a combination of good taste and knowledge.

I'd tip more, too.

I don't agree. If someone who showed the same degree of ignorance about the U.S. was rating buttermilk pancakes with Grade B maple syrup, would you say the same thing? I think that knowing what you're talking about is helpful, and based on the points I made, I have doubts that Sifton knows what he's talking about in regard to Southeast Asia. So sure, his review may well-serve people who also don't know much about Southeast Asian food. Perhaps they're Spice Market's target audience. bpearis, I screw up my facts, too, but I also deserve to be criticized for that.

K, you forgot that I also enjoyed the marinara pizza, "too much garlic" and all. I disagree with Sam about the tomato sauce. I thought it might have been the best of the three places we've been to so far, though I've previously loved the tomato sauce at DiFara's and will definitely have more chances to try it. But anyway, the sauce was tastier than Grimaldi's, and I liked that. I also liked Patsy's crust best, burnt edges and all. Otherwise, I agree with Sam about everything. The pepperoni was OK but nothing compared to the great pepperoni at DiFara's, and the olives really sucked. But I would go back to have more of that fresh mozarella pizza without a second thought! With or without some of their nice salad. Sam, I'd be willing to give an anchovy pizza a try, so that makes two people, at least (if we're both there).

This has been a lot of fun! I'm curious what the draw of tableside cooking of everything is, though, and do you give a much higher tip than you would to someone who just serves you? You live in a different world from me, so different that I have no way to be envious of your beautiful house and so forth. It's just not part of the East Village experience.

And in my elementary school days, I knew a principal without principles...

We had some terrific pizza at Patsy's tonight! I think all or at least most of us agreed that the pizza with fresh mozarella and basil was the best of the lot, and we had two of those. I loved the tomato sauce, I loved the crust (though Alacarte accurately pointed out that the outer part of it tended to get burnt). Some tasty salad and a great waiter were bonuses. My overall verdict is: Best tomato sauce so far; DiFara's is still my favorite overall because of the toppings; Grimaldi's also has superior toppings (great sausages and nice olives), but for a regular slice, Patsy's may be the best of the three. I'd be delighted to go back some time. Thanks to Joe and Sam for organizing this get-together!

That's all? Eh? Oh well.

OK, I understand what you're talking about. Nasi Ulam, for example, is something I really think of as East Coast cooking. I had some Sup Kambing in Petaling Jaya this past August, but it was in a restaurant that said it cooked Kelantan-style food, I believe (it was on the MPPJ square). Terengganu was my adopted home for 2 lovely years of my childhood, and I love the East Coast, but I don't think we'll find these things in New York - perhaps not ever.

Make the distinction, please. To me, roti canai, satay, dishes with belacan, asam and curry dishes, nasi lemak, tom yam soup, and Hainanese chicken rice are all well-established as dishes Malays make for Malays, regardless of their origins. What are you looking for that would differentiate Malay and Chinese-Malaysian cooking, other than perhaps an absence of pork and use of all halal products at the former?

Snausages, I'm surprised that you had a mediocre experience at Restaurant Malaysia. For what it's worth, I spoke with one of the chefs, who told me she was from Ipoh, a Malaysian city with a large Chinese community and one that's well-known in Malaysia for good food. I don't think I've had any of the dishes you got, other than Roti Canai. I've enjoyed everything I've had there. Here are some recommendations, off the top of my head: Asam Laksa Curry Mee with Yong Tau Foo Satay (beef or chicken) Kangkung (or any other vegetable you like) Belacan Nasi Lemak The curry soup with beef or the special mixed one. Ipoh Bean Sprouts I also like their Rojak, but it's not for everybody. It's been a while since I got a full-sized curry or asam dish, but I wouldn't think you'd go wrong with any of those. I've been there by myself much more often than with friends, so I usually get something relatively small.

There are several things in Sifton's article that raise my eyebrows: First of all, where is the place getting its Sichuan pepper? Secondly: Nope. It's Thai, its name doesn't even sound Indonesian, and it's distinguishable in taste from an Indonesian hot sauce like Sambal Oelek, in its various varieties. Mohan Ismail, a Malaysian Chinese? I really wonder about this. How many Malaysian Chinese are Muslims (as he would seem to be, given his name, which isn't exactly a typical Malaysian Chinese name) and cook pork vindaloo? This name sounds more Malaysian Indian Muslim to me, if anything. I hate to rain on Mr. Sifton's parade. I've read a bunch of articles by him that I've found excellent, but based on the dubious things he wrote in this Diner's Journal, I don't think he's established an expertise on Southeast Asia such that his opinion on this place should mean much to me.

To have to rely on an insider would make it not worth it to me. A 3-star that doesn't provide a gracious welcome and excellent service to guests previously unknown to the restaurant is not worth my time or money. And why didn't the sommelier want to give you the wine you wanted? He wanted to keep it for himself or something?

That room looks OK to me, but Grand Vefour is lovely to the nth degree.

That really is extraordinary praise, and thanks for that great review! I'm wondering if this place has the potential to be as good as a Michelin 3-star. Any opinions on that?

The only Michelin 3-star I've been to so far was Grand Vefour, and I found our reception and service terrifically unthreatening, considerate, exceedingly professional, and impressively choreographed. I loved the food, too! You can read about my experience by clicking here.

I'd be delighted to go anywhere that would make him cringe! If you're dissatisfied with the food critics, how good do you think the art and music critics are? But we'd better not get off on that tangent... I agree that the bandages slam was pretty severe. I haven't been in the restaurant, but from the outside, it looked fancy to me. That said, the only thing that meant to me was that it was probably too expensive for me to go to...

Oh, about the review: It was very positive on the food, less so on the decor. And since I don't care much about decor...

Hmmm...One-name restaurants...How about Gitlitz, the good kosher delicatessen that used to be on 77 St. and Broadway and closed over 20 years ago, I guess? How about Lutece? How about Mocca? There are a bunch. Add an "'s" to the equation, and we get Luchow's, Lundy's, etc., etc.

Scott, please post in the New York forum about your favorite Egyptian restaurant in New York. For one thing, I want its name and how long ago you most recently ate there.

I just saw "In America" this past weekend and questioned whether places like that still exist near Columbus Circle. Hell's Kitchen was dangerous in the 70s and 80s. It's safe now. Go.

I'm not familiar with that place at all! Any other dishes you like there?

Roz, I've never personally made reservations at the Hell's Kitchen branch, but I feel pretty sure you could make reservations there. The branch in Chelsea (which is good but not as good as the Hell's Kitchen branch) certainly takes reservations.