jackal10

There's nothing in the pan to deglaze if you're using a nonstick pan, is there? Non-stick pans have residue, just like other pans, although it is easier to get off in water. However the surface attracts fat and oil in preference to water - you can see water bead on a non-stick surface, whereas oil spreads out. The surface forms an oily film from the emulsion, and this tends to help break delicate emulsions, like low temperature butter emuslions, such as beurre blanc.

No, they are two different sauces. The low temperature beurre monte is close to a beurre blanc, basically flavoured whipped melted butter, using the emulsion that is already in the butter. Keller talks about 4 tablespoons of water to a pound of butter A traditional pan sauce is boiled rapidly, and the agitation, together with the gelatine in the pan residues, emulsifies the comparatively small amount of butter into the liquid.

UK: Cox's orange pippin So many to chose from, and thank goodness the older varieties are becoming available again. Brogdale, the national apple collection does good work, with over 2300 varieties of apple growing, and at least two trees of each variety. In my garden the Tydeman's Early are wonderful this year, soon to be followed by Tydeman's Delicious My favourite, though, are the fruit from the Allington Pippin trees in the old orchard, which keep and cook well, and mellow in storage to an intense fruit drop taste at Christmas.

I guess the saltpetre will convert the myoglobin to nitrated form (pink). It will then not be available to react with the smoke. Providing the piece of meat is fully brined so that the cure has penetrated to the centre, you won't get a smoke ring, apart from some coloration where tars have been deposited, and some Maillard reaction colour on the outside. You sometimes see, as a fault, a patch of uncured meat in the centre of thick parts of not fully cured meat, but too far from the outside for the smoke to penetrate

Temperature is critical for beurre blanc. It should only be warm. The cold butter cools the liquid rapidly For butter emuslison sauces (which are different) you need an emulsifier, such as the gelatine in the pan residues, and boil fast to amalgamate.

gelatin

Range of neutral ingredients, like eggs, flour, gelatine and hence Aspic/jelly, custards, tarts. Similarly butter and oils. Also many fruits like lemons and limes, but also Raspberries, blackberries, redcurrants, grapes Tomatoes, especially green tomatoes work for both sweet and savoury. In fact, most carbohydrates and fats can be used for either Protein is more difficult as a sweet component, apart from eggs and cream cheese, although mincemeat is a fine tradition, as are suet puddings. Many spices, such as cinnamon or mace are used for both sweet and savoury. Polish cookery uses a lot of sugar in othersise savoury dishes, as does some Moroccan, and of course sweet and sour dishes.

I'm writing it now. What would you like emphasised? Traditionally you reduce the liquid you add by about half, then mount with butter - essentially you are making a sort of beurre blanc or brun. Maybe you are not adding enough butter? Its different from finishing an already thick sauce with a knob of butter. You need about twice the amount of butter to liquid in the pan you are adding it to. Beurre manie (butter mashed up with flour) may be your secret weapon.

What are the essential components of a "Grand Aioli", besides the Aioli, of course? What merits the "grand" rather than just "Aioli garni"? Elizabeth David says pot-au-feu or chicken. Hopkinson says cod, others salt cod. Most agree on carrots and beans; opinions differ on artichokes, with most saying whatever happens to be around and in season. Are there any other sauces besides Aioli, such as Sauce vert, or is that a modern restaurant invention for the poor deluded souls who don't like garlic? What would you serve before and after, if anything?

You are right, my typo. 3-4 fat cloves to 1 stick (8oz/250G) butter Some advise removing the green shoot from the centre, but I don't think it makes much difference

Lemon (and/or lime) are good. Some of the rind grated added enhances the citrus flavour. Many authorities (including Escoffier) advise adding 2 tsp of boiled water at the end to both hollandaise and mayonnnaise to improve their standing properties. I think it is a bit of a myth. To paraphrase McGee "Finishing the sauce by adding a dollop of boiling water is a piece of conventional lore not to bother with....The important thing is is not the temperature of the of the water or when its added. The important thing is that there be enough water in the sauce to accomodate the amount of oil you've beaten in. The consistency of the sauce will tell that: if it is getting stiff and sweating oil, it is clearly in need of a drink. In any case a tablepoon or two of boiling water in a cup or more of room-temperature sauce is not going to raise its temperature enough to do anything useful. Its fine to adjust the flavour and texture at the end, but there is no need to put on the kettle".

I've never seen a formula except for the standard proportions given in the unit. Does any one else know?

Strange you should ask that. I'm just writing the Mayonnaise setion for egci. It depends on the oil. If you have an oil that thickens in the fridge, such as an unrefined olive oil, it will split. A refined oil, such as groundnut will be OK. Escoffier, as always, is definitive: "Unless it is exposed to too low a temperature, the mayonnaise...never turns, and may be kept for several days without the fear of anything happening to it. Mearly cover it to keep the dust away" he also says "It is an error to suppose that it is necessary to work over ice or in a cold room, Cold is deleterious to mayonnaise, and is invariably the cause of this sauce turning in winter. In the cold season the oil should be warmed slightly, or at least kept at the temperature of the kitchen, though it is best to make it in a modestly warm place."

Sorry. I should have made that clear. 1/2 pt stiffly whipped cream (measured after whippping) to 1 pt sauce Quenelle are nice, and easy to do.

So long as you stir well so that the roux is well mixed without any lumps and not burnt I don't think it makes any difference, I'm just lazy, and it made a better picture. If you do melt the butter seperately don't get it too hot - its white, not brown roux, and if the flour cooks it will lose spme of its thickening power.

Let me be the first to point out: 1. The title is slightly misleading, as Hollandaise, although creamy, is not strictly a cream sauce. However this unit is part of a continuing series on sauces. 2. After the unit had been put to bed, I re-read Harold McGee's wonderful book "The Curious Cook" (ISBN 0-86547-452-4). This is subtitled "More Kitchen Science and Law" and is a follow-on from his "On Food and Cooking". Both books are essential reading for any serious cook. He has a chapter on Hollandaise and Bernaise, and points out a) Hollandaise is much closer to Beurre Blanc than to Mayonnaise in construction. It is a butter emulsion with some additional thickening from the egg yolk proteins, rather than using the egg yolk as the primary emulsifying agent b) The sauce will break into scrambled egg at a temperature in the range 160F-170F, (71C-77C), which is not much above the thickening temperature, so care (and a good thermometer) is needed. Adding acid, such as lemon juice helps, adding salt causes breakdown at a lower temperature, so use unsalted butter and add the salt last, after the sauce is cooked.. c) Don't hold the the sauce much above 120F/50C until serving d) He has a simplified of technique of mixing the lemon juice or vinegar and water with the egg yolk cold, then warming it with all the butter (cut into lumps), stirring while the butter melts, and until the temperature reaches 160F/70C or the sauce thickens. e) Some are concerned that raw eggs can contain Salmonella. If this is your concern, or if you are serving the sauce to potentially vulnerable people (the very young or the very old, or people who are otherwise immuno-compromised), then use pastaurised egg yolks. McGee give a technique for heating them carefully in a microwave mixed with 2 tsp of lemon juice or vinegar and 2-4 tablespoons of water, the amount depending on the size of egg, heating to 200F (93C) for one minute, stirring very 10 seconds or so, and then cooling rapidly. It makes a thinner sauce that should not be heated over 120F(49c) I urge you to read McGee.

Oops, you are right. I qt US is 946 ml, 1 qt UK is 1140ml However, the recipe and clarification will still work with 1500ml stock. Conversion tables

Strictly its not Kosher either, "chukas h'goy", since it might deceive a stranger into thinking that the law prohibiting meat and milk could be broken. Tastes awful as well...

Man, is that ever the story of MY life. I love you, Jaymes!!!!! Something cool to slip into..

According to a recent news article injecting sodium bicarbonate into pork does wonders. I wondered if adding some baking soda to the brine would have any effect. On the otherhand I would worry that the alkaline environment might encourage growth of botulism. Thoughts, opinions, any one tried adding baking soda?

Vegemite and Marmite are both hydrolised yeast spreads. Its like different beers: Marmite is sort of the remains from the bottom of a Guiness barrel, while Vegemite is more like the backwards of Mackeson. (I hasten to add this is an analogy, they are not made from beer dregs, so far as I know, but the process and taste is analagous). Vegemite is sweeter, and more like butter in texture, and slightly brown. Marmite is saltier and more like meat glaze in texture. Marmite is very salt, and does need to be spread thin. Makes a great base to put peanut butter on, or marmite soilders with a runny boiled egg... Then, of course, there is Bovril, and Patum Pepperium (Gentlemans Relish) Marmite for me!

Meat conducts heat *really* slowly - about 1 inch/hour even in a very hot oven.. If the object is to get it uniformly to about 55C/150F, its crazy putting it in a 500F oven, over cooking the outside, and then hoping that thermal inertia will cook the inside. The result is meat that is overcooked outside, dry with juices squeezed out, tough, and practically raw in the centre. Much better to put it in an oven slightly above the desired temperature (second law of thermodynamics: heat flows from hotter to cooler), for a long time until the heat gets to the centre the meat and everything stabilises at the correct temperature. Since at no point do you overcook the meat, the irreversible fibre contraction does not squeeze out the juice or go tough. Cooking it hot is confusing two processes that are better seperated: cooking the meat and browning the outside for that meaty taste. If they are seperated, you can control each better. To brown the outside (Maillard reaction) put the roasting tin on high heat on the stovetop, with a little fat or oil, and effectively fry it briefly - put the joint in, and when it starts to smoke, turn it to another side until its a nice colour all over. Alternatively 15 mins in a very hot oven. If you are in a restaurant kitchen its even easier with a blowtorch . You can do this before or after the long slow cooking, but its easier before. You could even do this the day before, providing you chill the meat quickly after. Dry rub for flavour/colour and fat to lubricate, or even better lard or bard (inserting strips of fat or bacon into the meat with a larding needle). Good gravy made seperately from a demi-glace. The purpose of a salt crust or huff paste crust is to allow the meat to be cooked cooler than the oven permitted in the old days. I would not use it now. Sealing the meat stews it, rather than roasts, and the salt crust makes it very salt. You will miss that roasted taste. If you are feeding large numbers have you thought about the logistics of carving and getting it to table? You may need to carve it, hold it warm, above the temperature bugs breeed, and then plate it. Hence the horrors of steam table beef at banquets. In the UK health regulations state it must be served within 2 hours of being cooked.

Isn't it just a way of adding MSG and some salt?

I've lost about 20 lbs, averaging about 8oz/day (although in fits and starts) on a not very strict Atkins diet. I refuse to give up milk in coffee, fresh fruit or wine. More energy (at least in the mornings), and I'm told I've stopped snoring.. I abhor any of the "Atkins" products, like bread or low-carb flour. They are artificial and disgusting. I do miss new potatoes, and decent sourdough bread, even though I grow and cook them for others... However one can still eat very well, and I'm rediscovering all sorts of good things, like quenelles, and flourless souffles. Yesterday was roast chicken, courgettes, tomatoes. Today was a meal soup from the remains, with marinted tofu, leeks, and cabbage, toulouse sausage...

I was going to say the opposite. First brown the outside and then cook at very low heat (65C/150F) for a long time, - 7 hours or until the internal temperatue is 55C/130F-60C/140F, depending how well done you like it. This has several advantages: a) You will not eat a better, moister piece of meat. b) It is much less sensitive to timing - weddings always run late c) You can leave it unattended while you are busy doing other things, like kissing the bride. d) You don't need standing time, with attendant health risks e) The meat will be uniformly cooked Use a digital themometer, preferably one you can leave the probe in the meat and read from outside the oven. That is the single biggest thing you can do to improve quality.