butterfly

Ah, we were just debating this the other night, but more from an American perspective... I agree with Vserna. I do not think that Spain has a national cuisine. I believe strongly that cuisine is an indicator of culture. And Spain lacks a strong centralized culture. France was once as diverse culturally as Spain. But the French government much more effectively and systematically standardized the language spoken and the regional cultural practices. This filtered down to identity and cuisine. I think the geography, educational system and wide-spread industrialization of France lent itself to this much more than in Spain. I lived in Barcelona and can attest that I now feel strongly that I am living in a different country (in Madrid). The food and the way that people eat (and live) is entirely different. There are no two places in the US or France that are as different as these two cities. In fact many countries in Europe are more similar than these two places. There are only a few culinary commonalities that I have found are pervasive in Spain--tortilla española, turrón at Christmastime, and some form of jamón.

Ha, a girl can try... But I understand, really I do. Back in DC, I had a hidden little chanterelle and blackberry hunting ground right in the middle of the city. Never told a soul and it was mine--all mine--for years. And where I grew up, we could find morels by the grocery-bag-full for a few glorious weeks in spring. Not sure how I would find them here, since flowering dogwood trees always indicated the right time and place. Thanks for the book recommendation--that's just what I was looking for. What exactly are perretxicos?

For some reason, yesterday ended up being a fungally-oriented day. In the morning, I bought two small bags of mushrooms--chanterelles and black trumpet mushrooms--from the mushroom vendor at the San Miguel market (in Madrid). I cooked them up for lunch. The chanterelles were much meatier than their US counterparts (slightly different variety, I suspect). The black trumpets were very interesting and smelled much stronger uncooked than they ended up. A bit hard to clean (lots of grit and critters in the crevices), but well worthwhile and a fraction of what they would cost in the US. The same evening, we were out tapeando in Chueca and ended up at El Cisne Azul--a bar that specializes in mushrooms (setas). They had four or five different types: chanterelles, black trumpets, oyster mushrooms, and a few that I didn't recognize--one of which, I suspect was a "níscalo" (not sure what the English translation is). When I asked, the man behind the bar told me the latin names for the mystery mushrooms, which are now escaping me... The mushrooms were prepared very simply--sauteed in olive oil and salt. They also offered sauteed flor de calabaza and watercress salads. Great place. Very low key. Next time I'll be sure to limit my mushroom consumption before going, as there's only so much that a body can handle and appreciate in one day. Seriously, I may be suffering from some psychotropic side-effects today from ingesting too many, because I'm completely unable to get any work done and have been relentlessly slacking off. Questions for the experts: What are some of your favorite mushroom dishes? And where can I find them in Madrid? Are there any low-key Basque places that do those wonderful egg and mushroom dishes? What are the different varieties of wild mushrooms available in Spain? And the seasons? Can I look forward to morels in the spring? Are there any good mushroom hunting areas in the Sierra around Madrid? Or do they all come from the misty green north?

Ah, I've heard this all before... I think the crux of the matter is that most people visiting Spain look for what they expect to find and miss 90% of the good stuff because they don't know that it exists. Most of the guidebooks for Spain are inexcusably bad when it comes to culinary matters. That, compounded with the fact that visitors rarely eat the right things at the right times and don't understand the entirely different style of eating here, can lead to very disappointing and unrepresentative experiences. Even Egullet can't help you to find a good meal if you try to eat dinner at 8:00 or 9:00pm! Even after living here in the past, visiting frequently, and having Spanish roots here, when we moved here, it took us a good two months to really culturally deprogram ourselves to integrate into the Spanish rhythm of life (and eating). For someone who comes from a radically different culture (like the US), a short visit probably isn't going to reveal the best that Spain has to offer.

Very interesting topic! There were very downscale places like this in Washington, DC--mainly geared toward immigrants who seek out forbidden delicacies like iguana and such. Also places that operate in a clandestine fashion to get around the restaurant-unfriendly regulations, taxes, licenses, etc. Can you talk a little bit more about what types of traditional foods are now forbidden in Portugal (and presumably Spain)? Which EU policies have affected traditional food gathering or production?

There's a little bar called "los caracoles" right on Plaza de Cascorro that--as you might imagine--specializes in snails. I haven't had a chance to go yet, but the mounds and mounds that I see people eating look promising. I'll to to go this week and report back. I have had bigaros in Asturias--with the pins and all. They are among the cheapest of all the bar food and as much as I wanted to like them, I have found that after four or five, I start to resent them for not being tastier or more interesting...

I really enjoyed reading this chat. Sorry that I missed it. I'm living in Madrid now and I can honestly say that one of the places in DC that my mind wanders to the most is Colorado Kitchen. It's the most "American" place I can think of. While I'm certain that Ms. Clark could easily execute lofty and more complicated dishes, what I appreciate most is her ability to elevate the most simple food to perfection. Despite what the elitests might think, this is the mark of an artist (and a scientist). Those biscuits run out because they are perfect. Even if you stow a few in a zip loc bag in your purse and eat them the next day, they hold up. Yes, it is hard to fry things! A simple waffle tastes the way it should. It is unbelievably hard to do these things right. Especially when fewer and fewer are doing these things at home--soon we may all forget what the most simple things are supposed to taste like. After seeing you back in that kitchen working so hard and producing so much good food, I just can't understand how people can criticize what you have managed to create. If you want to wear a tiara and call yourself the queen--who cares!? In any case, I look forward to seeing how your empire has expanded when I land back in DC. And please make sure to put your biscuit recipe in the cookbook. Best of luck!

Just wanted to add another recommendation for a Chinese grocery store... I was walking around Lavapies (checking out vserna's rec--Foodland on Amparo--great spot for Indian ingredients and spices). On the way back, I noticed a place on Embajadores, just north of the Fabrica de Tabacos on the right side. At first I thought it was just chinese housewares, because there are rice steamers and other kitchen appliances in the window. When I went in, I found a very big Chinese grocery. Much bigger than the other two mentioned above. But not nearly as pan-Asian....almost exclusively Chinese, with more produce and housewares. Looked like a good place to buy a wok. Also seemed a bit cheaper with more selection of a lot of items. Next time I'll go, I'll try to figure out the exact address and name...

I've noticed here in Madrid that many ask for their morning cafe con leche in a "caña"--that is a tall glass. Better for dunking churros. Pedro--I thought that a mediano was what you get when they use more water with the same amount of coffee in the espresso machine. In French it is called "allongé." I've heard it called a "long pull" in English... Or is there a different terminology for this in Spanish?

Can't say I've enjoyed duck tongue, even in the places where it has been reputed to be good. Perhaps it's just my cultural bias, but I find it jarring to have a tongue be so crunchy... Perhaps it's best to stick to the noodle soups, dumplings and tofu dishes at the Calle Silva spot... Where is China Crown?

Over the past 15 years that I have been visiting Madrid, I've noticed an explosion of Chinese spots. Over the past few weeks, I've had a chance to try a few restaurants and was surprised by how good they were. The food bears none of the unpleasant features of Americanized chinese food--syrupy sweet heavy sauces, excessive grease, and obscene portions. So far my favorite place has been a little hole in the wall on Calle Silva. It's in the block just north of Gran Via (there's a McDonalds on the corner). It's on the left side about a third of the way down the block. They have some really interesting tofu dishes with more heat than I've ever experienced anywhere on the Iberian peninsula. They use scotch bonnet peppers liberally. The dumplings seemed to be made from rice-based flour and were very light and flavorful. From what I could tell, they seemed to be catering to an exclusively Chinese clientele. Does anyone know anything about the origins of the Chinese community in Madrid? Any other leads on good spots to check out? P.S. In addition to the Chinese grocery under Plaza de Espana, I found another on Calle San Bernardo. It's right off Gran Via. You go south at the corner with Hotel Emperador and it's on the right side inside an arcade of shops. They had a slightly different selection from Extremo Oriente.

A day late and a dollar short, but I think your friend had chirlas. Is he American? As far as I know, we don't have chirlas in the US, whereas coquinas are pretty ubiquitous (at least on the east and Florida coasts). They are the colorful little shells that look like butterflies when they are uninhabited. I think he would have recognized them--even though they aren't really eaten, except in certain places in the south. The chirla shells are a little bigger, but they don't have much more meat. Another possibility is berberechos (cockles), though they are bigger still.

The cuban sandwich wasn't bad at all (though you can't find the right bread north of Tampa), but it was pretty pricey. We got take out, so I can't comment on the ambiance.

The photos truly don't do Asturias justice. It's one of the most beautiful places on earth. I prefer it over Cantabria, because it is less developed. For this region, I recommend micro-travel. That is, find a nice house to rent and use as your home base and then travel all around the area on day trips. Or just go for walks in the countryside. We found a nice place on Top Rural. Arena de Cabrales would be a good spot in the mountains. Ribadesella, if you want to be closer to the ocean. And Cangas de Onis if you want to be in between the two. One thing: I strongly recommend renting a car. You could take the train to Oviedo and rent one there or you could drive from Madrid (it's about 5 hours, as I remember). It is just too cumbersome to try to go by bus and train as this is a very, very rural area. There was a posting on Asturias on this board several months ago that will be helpful for food recommendations. Try to branch out into the various sea creatures (fruit of the sea!) like navajas (razor clams), percebes (goose barnacles), berberechos (cockles), etc. The cheese and milk is also wonderful.

Best pastrami on rye: C.F. Folks (on 19th, M-F lunch only) Best pizza: Vace Chopped liver and pastrami for home consumption: So's Your Mom (Adams Morgan) is my source

Soho in Dupont Circle... Ching Ching Cha (tea, not coffee) in Georgetown Sparky's Espresso Cafe (outside is nicest)

I refused to take them to a Spanish place--but I knew they would like Zaytinya, because it is really a Spanish take on greek/turkish food viewed through an American filter. The other things that they loved: soft shell crabs (do they have these in Spain?), baby carrots, blackberries, grits, pupusas, and chevre (at least it was made in Pennsylvania and not France...). I've found it's tough to take Spaniards to dinner in the US. Most (and these primos were no exception) don't really tolerate any sort of spicy food, so much of what is good here in DC was out for them. And the rhythm of meals is so different here. They are foodies, in that they can give an hour long treatise on the processing of pata negra, percebes and cabrales, but unfortunately not as adventurous when it comes to "other." And by the time they got to us, they were at the end of a three-week tour through the US (Florida mostly) and they were pretty much exhausted and disgusted by the huge American portions and expressed a preference for something light when they got here. The "Spanish" family in Florida--which has really been thoroughly cubanized--may have overdone it with the cuban sandwiches. And finally I think that seeing all of the overweight Americans was starting to elicit a temporary eating disorder...

Thanks for the rundown... Glad to hear that there's a more liberal policy about posting here. I'm a strictly apolitical food lover and am happy to graze for food tips on both sites. But I find the deeper philosophical debates to be much better here, particularly on this board. I'm looking forward to being able to contribute much more once I physically move to Spain this summer (I'm already there in spirit). Somewhat off-topic--but not entirely, since he's an Adria protege--my hometown guy Jose Andres was featured in an article in Food and Wine this month: http://www.foodandwine.com/invoke.cfm?obje...806318DBC514BAD To bring it back around to Madrid, when my husband's foodie cousins from Madrid were visiting the USA last summer, the only meal that they really enjoyed on the entire trip was at Andres' restaurant Zaytinya.

Thanks for such a detailed post. Not sure if this is kosher, but there was another very good post on El Bulli on "the other site" today: http://www.chowhound.com/boards/intl/messages/27995.html I see Ferran as a true culinary and cultural explorer. I don't expect him to rest on his laurels, because he seems to have such a strong philosophical mission. I haven't yet had the opportunity to go to El Bulli, but I will have to find a way when I go to Spain next year.

Ercilias has really good carne guisada (beef stew), pollo guisada (chicken stew), sopa de mondongo (tripe), huisquil relleno (stuffed chayote), etc. I also like their tacos al carbon, but since you get handmade tortillas with almost any of the other dishes, I don't usually order them. I think you couldn't go wrong ordering any of the specials written on the whiteboard to the right of the cash register. Pretty much everything there tastes like someones abuela is cooking it up back in the kitchen. As such, it's pretty slow, not really fast food. I usually put in my order and then go grocery shopping for 15 minutes or so. But what really sets Ercilias apart are the pupusas. They are just in a different league from all of the other places I've tried over the years. They are somehow light, where most others are heavy. And not at all greasy. I particularly recommend the pupusas con loroco. El Rinconcito II on Park Rd between 13th and 14th is another good spot. I particularly like their carne deshilada, sopa de res, tacos al carbon, empanadas de platano, and yuca sancochada. The pollo a la brasa place across the street from Ercilias--Pollo Sabroso--is also pretty good.

Yes, to the question about the Salvadoran... Ercilias in Mount Pleasant (DC) makes the best pupusas I've had. The Caribbean/West Indian joints on Georgia Ave are the real thing. As are the African spots. There's plenty of good chow all over the city.

This is very exciting. I completely agree--this is the opposite of the cynical elitism and egomania that is so rampant in the American culinary scene. And with the low cost and availability of quality ingredients in Spain, it makes a lot of sense. Can't wait to check it out.

From what I've heard, Lalibela's claim to fame is their kitfo... And they get extra points for having a good spot to sit outside in nice weather. I should have mentioned that Meskerem and Fasika's are still really good compared to what you'll find in almost any other American city, but it would be a shame to just stick with those two when there are so many others to try... In other Adams Morgan news... I noticed that Straits of Malaya is returning to the old Wazuri location. I think that might be a first in restaurant history... I can't think of another location where a restaurant left, was replaced and managed to come back... What next? Kenny Rogers Roasters stages a coup at Palena?

Even given the abysmal options in that neighborhood, I would not recommend Dish. When we went a few months ago, the food was lackluster, the prices out of whack, and the ambience had a creepy hotel feel with too bright lights and muzak. The pie was institutional, the fried chicken flavorless, the red wine was warm. For a place that attempts to serve comfort food, I found it very uncomfortable. I was kicking myself when the check came... for just a few more dollars we could have had the pre-theater dinner at Marcel's. Cooking-wise, it's just not at all in the same league as Colorado Kitchen. At Dish it felt like no one was really trying, and that they were banking on the fact that they would have a captive audience in a neighborhood with very few mid-range restaurant options. At Colorado Kitchen it feels like she is really trying her hardest to produce high-quality/made-from-scratch food in a neighborhood with very few mid-range restaurant options. I'd guess that more effort goes into the biscuits at CK than went into our entire meal at Dish.

For Ethiopian-- All the best Ethiopian spots are now to the east of Adams Morgan on the U Street/9th Street/14th Street axis. There are at least a dozen places within blocks of each other, each with different specialties. My overall favorite is Dukem (U Street Metro). Especially on Sundays afternoons for the coffee ceremony. But I haven't tried them all and there are new ones opening all of the time (I just noticed a new one on 14th, just north of U on the west side and several new ones on 9th, south of U; and several creeping east along Florida Ave, past Georgia). Fasika's and Meskerem are fine for delivery, but neither are geared toward an Ethiopian clientele, so the food is much more mild and less nuanced than what you'll find at the other spots. For Ethiopian near Adams Morgan, I think Addis Ababa is your best bet. In my informal survey of Ethiopian cab drivers, Dukem almost always rates tops. Also frequently mentioned are Madjet, Lalibela (for kitfo), and Addis Ababa. Eritreans always mention Harambee. There are also lots of corner stores around 14th that serve a few homestyle Ethiopian dishes and some of these are good, too.