butterfly

I think the key to a successful fabada is good pork products (especially the smoked morcilla and chorizo) and good beans. Some times we substitute judiones de la granja, but we try to bring enough fabes back from Asturias to last us for a good long while. And Pelayín's technique of shaking the cazuela lightly (instead of stirring) and adding the cold water really helps to keep the beans from overcooking and breaking up. The clam dish is fabes con almejas (with saffron). Different from and simpler than fabada--one of my favorite dishes. But only if I can get the little delicate clams they use in Asturias.

Oh, so you meant “circus” in a good way. Thanks for the explanation--I'll confess, I have never had fun at a circus and clowns give me the creeps, but I should probably discuss my unresolved neurosis on other forums... I haven't been to Mugaritz yet, but I'm very much looking forward to it. Agreed that the attention heaped on Ferrán is a bit overwhelming. I blame that not on him, but on the type of consumerism that drives people to always look for the next big thing. Soon--if it hasn't already happened--"the new France" will be "the not-so new France" and Ferrán and the like will again work in relative obscurity. I like the notion of him being a sort of Da Vinci. I get the impression that--with his mind--he could be innovative in a wide range of fields. He has certainly fostered a multidisciplinary, renaissance approach to gastronomy. But he's also going further by tapping into that most Spanish notion of the esperpéntico: taking the traditional forms and ideals and warping them. And there certainly are a lot of imitators who don't have the resources or inspiration to use the techniques judiciously. But--as with any art--I don't think it is fair to judge the genius by his pretenders. Imagine if Picasso's work were considered alongside the vast sea of horrific pseudocubist Rastro art.

Perhaps veering off-topic, but I don't agree. I suppose perspective is in the eye of the beholder. I think that it is quite possible to have an interesting and illuminating perspective based on a diverse set of experiences. I have the great fortune of living in Spain, but I'm very interested in hearing what visitors have to say about the food, particular meals, restaurants, etc.--whether it is their first time visiting or their twentieth. About the "circus" of El Bulli. I just can't reconcile the somewhat troubling and grotesque image of a circus with my experience there. It was one of the most relaxed and playful meals that I've had in my life.

I think it is worth renting a car. You'll probably spend less than you would on taxis and you'll have more freedom. It's an easy drive from Barcelona (but do get a map and directions before you leave the airport, there's one tricky turn on the way out of the airport that you won't want to miss). We have always gotten good deals from http://www.easycar.com

Funny how those St. Louis memories are fuzzy, isn't it? The ice cream place... Is this the place that was under the big Amoco sign? Mrs. Waspy-Sounding-Surname? I remember the first salad bar that I ever saw in STL was at a place called People's in the very early eighties or very late seventies. The whole family got horribly sick afterwards (we suspected the mayonnaise-based dressing). That was pretty much the beginning and end of salad bar dining for my family. The boat with melodrama--Goldenrod Showboat? The hippie spot in Webster... Ah, I drove by this every day on the way to school for four years.... What was the name of that place? Ah, fuzzy memories...

Are baby eels in season right now? Is there anywhere where I can try them in Madrid?

Going way back here, but the sandwich in question is called a St. Paul Sandwich. It is basically egg foo young--an omelette with bean sprouts and whatever else is on hand--on an italian roll or white bread. I haven't had one in years--decades!--but when I was a kid (70s-80s), you could not only get them at Chinese restaurants/carryouts, but also at many corner stores with sandwich counters. A guilty pleasure, for sure.

In Madrid: Mercado de los Mostenses A Korean stall and many good sources for Asian and Latin American produce. Asia San Bernardo, 5y 7 In the arcade across the street from Casa. Pan-asian. Gets Japanese items from Tokyo-ya. Extremo Oriente Pz. España In the underground parking garage, go down the stairs in the NE corner of the plaza. Ibero China General Margallo , 4 There's a couple of other Chinese grocers on this street--some of which carry Japanese items. Foodland Amparo, 88 Indian grocer. There's another one at #86. Tokio Ya Presidente Carmona, 9 Japanese. Expensive. For the items you can't get elsewhere. A few others that I don't have the address for: Chinese Grocer on east side of C/Embajadores just before the Ronda This is the best place for Chinese ingredients (other than produce) that I've found. Also a good selection of woks, rice steamers, etc. Chinese grocer next to Principe Pio (going out the exit near the Starbucks--once outside, look to the right and you'll see it on the corner). Lots of other little alimentaciones scattered in Lavapies, La Latina, around c/Luna and Tetuan.

El Corte Ingles (Preciados) has carried cranberry juice for some time. If this is indeed a harbinger of the end, then you can console yourself by mixing it with vodka, a splash of soda, and a slice of lime.

Thanks so much for all of the additional info. We're definitely seeking out the simple things. Spain has taught me well that this is the path to contentment... I'd love to go to Sotres--and I've been closeby before, it is indeed breathtaking scenery--but I doubt I'd make it in a rental car at this time of the year! (Pelayín--do you think we'll have any problems on the Autovía driving over the pass from Castilla? I'm a bit worried after seeing all of those snowbound pictures in the paper yesterday.) I'll definitely report on what we find in San Martin de Oscos and Pesoz. I think the place that you mentioned--La Marquesita--is owned by my husband's distant relatives. And it's news to me that Pesoz/Pezos (I've seen it spelled both ways) has a Meson. Perhaps this is in the little general store... It's such a tiny little aldea--many more cows than people. When we drove there almost ten years ago, just the presence of our car turned heads on the tiny little road leading to the town.

A day late and a euro short... I found out that Hespen y Suárez (the one place that I forgot to check; C/Barceló, 15) imported bags of fresh cranberries for Thanksgiving.

Thanks for all of the tips. I hope to do a full report when we return. I'd love to get to Grandas de Salime--weather permitting... Here are the Campsa listed restaurants within 25kms of where we are staying: SPORT Sin Soles Pº.Rivero, 9 LUARCA CASA CONSUELO Sin Soles CT.N-634, OTUR LA BARCAROLA Sin Soles CL.las Armas, 15 NAVIA TABERNA VIAVÉLEZ PUERTO Muelle de Viavélez, s/n. VIAVÉLEZ LA CUEVA Sin Soles Oviñana, s/n. OVIÑANA AL SON DEL INDIANO Sin Soles CL.Conde de Casares, 1 MALLEZA CASA JUAN DE LA TUCA Sin Soles BEIFAR BALBONA Sin Soles CL.Pico Merás, 2 PRAVIA CASA EMBURRIA Sin Soles CL.El Crucero, 17 TINEO CASA LULA Sin Soles El Crucero, 10 TINEO L'ALEZNA CL.La Rienda 14 CACES MARIÑO Sin Soles CL.Concha de Artedo, CONCHA DE ARTEDO LA CASONA DE PÍO Sin Soles CL.Riofrío 3 CUDILLERO Other than the aforementioned Sport (with the highly recommended empanadas de merluza)--has anyone been to any of these? Thanks! edited because my US keyboard is not cooperating with my Spanish operating system...

A suckling lamb, but, more specifically, a very tiny baby suckling lamb. Just had roasted one today in Covarrubias. So tender!

Thanks for the leads. I think mine is a lost cause. As for Ikea... yes, there are two in Madrid--one in San Sebastian de los Reyes and another in Alcorcón. They carry a whole host of lingonberry preserves, but no fresh produce (but they do have those lovely toasts with cardamom). But if I were going for preserves, then I'll just get canned cranberry sauce from Taste of America (in Salamanca)...

Yes, sorry, I realize that they are an American phenomenon. Even we don't give cranberries a second thought 11.5 months out of the year. I just thought there might be some obsure market stall somewhere in Madrid that might import a case around this time of year... Incidentally, the store Taste of America imports cases of the canned cranberry sauce, but no fresh ones. And thanks for the info on bilberries. I knew the arándanos here were slightly different from American blueberries, but I didn't realize they were a completely different species. And, ludja, thanks also. But I fear I would be in the same boat trying to find lingonberries here...

Agreed that it's pricey. Last year, I found them for around 12 euros once the season really kicked in... I usually love chanterelles, but this year, I have found them to be bitter. I don't know if it has something to do with the dry season or if my taste buds need readjusting. But there really is something very meaty and satisfying about those níscalos (and perhaps there's an exotic element, since I grew up picking and consuming bushels and bushels of chanterelles as a child). What is the Spanish name for lepista nuda?

Eastern Asturias has been covered on this board before, but I wasn't able to find much on the wild west... We've been quite a few times on day trips from other parts of Asturias, but never during fall/winter... This time, we're going to be staying for a week (during the puente de la constitución)on the coast near Oviñana--between Cudillero and Luarca. We'll have a car. We will also be venturing inland to San Martín de Oscos and Pesóz (my husband's family's pueblos). We're most interested in informal spots with good ''home cooking,'' marisquerías, etc. We'll also be doing our own cooking, so any info on local markets or seasonal foods look out for would be greatly appreciated. We'll probably do at least a day trip to both Oviedo and eastern Asturias. I would love to pick up some of that famed Cabrales and Gamonedo cheese made from summer milk... And also stock up on fabes and smoked chorizo and morcilla to take back to Madrid for winter consumption. Any ideas on good sources? Also, does anyone know of a cheese producer that is disposed to receive visitors? My four-year-old son (who says tomatoes are ''too strong'' but eats cabrales like nobody's business) would love to see where his favorite cheeses come from. Thanks!

I've been waiting apprehensively through this long, dry year and am happy to report that níscalos are back! It has obviously not been a great mushroom season, but they had them at my market today for 24 Euros a kilo. When I talked to the mushroom guy at Mercado San Miguel last week, he said he would be getting them this week as well. He also had chanterelles, black trumpet mushrooms, angulas de monte, boletus, and four or five other varieties. I'm very much looking forward to reproducing vserna's recipe (directly above) again this year--a perfect antidote to this brisk weather that we are having...

I've never seen fresh cranberries in Spain, but then again I've never looked before... We've got a guiri gathering planned for Thanksgiving and I would like to make cranberry sauce from scratch if I can get my hands on some... Has anyone seen fresh cranberries lately at their local market? I asked around at our market (Mercado de la Cebada) and our usual fruterías and no one has them or knows what they are. I have been referring to them as arándanos agrios (trying to distinguish them from the somewhat more available blueberry/arándano)? Is there another name for them? Or is this a lost cause? Thanks! Here's a picture of the fruit in question, if that helps:

I like the marisquería El Cantábrico, too. It's just a hop, skip and a jump away from the comisaria at which so many of us guiris spend so much time extricating our papers from the bureaucracy--it's a nice reward at the end of a several hour wait. One note: there are only a handful of tables, so it pays to get there early for lunch or you'll be left eating standing up.

A little update... the Moroccan grocer that I go to moved to the other side of the street on Calatrava and is a block further down now. I believe there is a sign that says "carnicería" and has Arabic writing on the outside. It's a very small place, but they could surely point you in the right direction if you are looking for something that they do not carry.

These potato chips, like most in Spain, are fried in olive oil. I don't find them to be heavy at all, rather incredibly satisfying! Though I prefer those from a neighborhood "fabrica," I think the Lays brand is good--certainly much better than what is sold in the US. I liked that the flavors were very subtle. I'm interested to see what new flavors come out this year, but I'm not sure it's necessary to tamper with a product like potato chips too much... Given the enthusiastic and accessible persona that Adria has cultivated here in Spain, I don't find it odd that he would lend his name and ideas to a snack product consumed by the masses. In fact, I think it would be great if he could find a way to mass-produce some of his other El Bulli "snacks" (mozzarella sferica please!).

Don't they grow some more unusual varieties of olives in Argentina? I seem to remember reading somewhere that they grow empeltre and other varieties that do better with a little more humidity. Of course these are grown in Spain, as well, but perhaps there is the need to supplement the production of particular varieties--maybe for export to markets outside of Spain. Of course, I'm just speculating... Victor--do you happen to know what the production of olive oil is in Morocco, just curious as to how it compares. And to get this back on topic, what would be the preferred variety to use for frying churros? I would choose something "suave," but I've never really figured out which varieties have the best properties for deep frying.

Great report--amazing how few dishes your meal had in common with ours at the end of July. Though it doesn't surprise me, given that every ingredient at El Bulli felt like it was plucked from its natural habitat at its most succulent moment. I'll get my thoughts together soon and post, though I didn't take pictures or notes. I decided to just let the meal wash over me in waves. Caracolines con necoras was also my favorite dish. Necora are my favorite crustaceans and this seemingly simple dish brought out their flavor perfectly.

Take this with a grain of salt, since I've never made churros at home, but none of the recipes that I have include eggs... They all require that you bring water and oil to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and then add sifted flour all at once, beating the mixture vigurously until it is smooth and almost begins to form into a ball. Remove from heat. You can then put the dough into a pastry bag or whatever contraption you come up with to make the churros and fry it in olive oil. The proportions seem to be (roughly): 2 parts flour 1 part water 1/3 part oil salt oil for cooking I like my churros crunchy and light and my porras crispy on the outside and absorbent and porous on the inside.