Joe H

I think there is a concern on my part of misinterpreting the reaction to this dinner. There WAS a three minute ovation for the entire kitchen staff at the end. Not ten seconds, not one minute, not two and not polite applause. THREE MINUTES. That speaks for itself. At least 30 of the 50 people there were at the Maestro dinner last year. To the best of my knowledge everyone said this was directly comparable to/on par with/as good as/better than or some verbiage that essentially meant that this was a fantastic dinner using Maestro's special dinner as a standard. Having said all this 11 of the 14 courses are not yet available to the general public but will be introduced over time. Several of these were absolutely spectacular: in particular the Key Lime Tequila coconut with almond nougat, foie gras three ways, the risotto, possibly the sardine and the first course, the oyster with Black Sturgeon caviar. There were at least two courses where all talk in a room full of 50 loud, well into their four glass of wine diners virtually stopped talking while they ate: the foie gras three ways and the Key Lime Tequila coconut. I also know that someone at our table who had never had an oyster in 40 years on earth was coerced by others into tasting it. She wanted a second. There are digital photos of each course which I have seen. I believe that Tweaked will post them on his blog and then later on here. In particular the photo of the risotto is superb-it is so clear that you can see each individual kernal of violane nano. Jeff Black nailed the texture on this dish-someone stood at a pan and stirred non stop for 15 minutes to prepare this. Probably two people since there were 50 of us. A true rarity in any restaurant kitchen today, here or in Italy. The chefs on this board know this. This was a special dinner. Again, very little of this is on Black Salt's menu now, but most of it is coming soon. In the meantime, for those who go, give serious consideration to any soup or stew, anything fried,, oysters and his $80 tasting menu which will itself feature some new dishes and close to 12 courses/tastes.

Pittsford is no longer the highest grossing store in their chain; Sterling took over for it. Fairfax, with the stone walls, landscaping and three floors is unlike any other grocery store I have seen anywhere. It is the most beautiful of any-not just in Wegmans, but I think of any store I've been in here or overseas. But for me-and perhaps only for me-there is a "cluttered" feeling from entering through a parking garage as opposed to entering from the parking lot similar to their other stores. I have the same criticism of the Home Depot in Merrifield. It's trivial and personal-but that's me. I genuinely did NOT like their wine shop. I noted at least 15 to 20 wines (Chateau Souverain Cab for $22.95, 2001 Don Melchor for $47.95 ($39 at Costco) that were genuinely expensive; Imagination with, say, Australian reds? Where is the Marquis Phillips? Morambro Creek? Shotfire Ridge? D'arenburg? Washington state wines? L'ecole 41, Andrew Will, Quiceda Creek? Oregon? A good price on Rust en Vrede but fewer South African offerings than local privately owned stores such as Reston's Wine Cabinet which have excellent "eccentric" selection. It is this last which I thought Wegmans lacked in their wine shop: a bit of imagination and the acknowledgment that there is a relative sophistication in the market they've opened this store in. Their inventory for me was "vanilla" and mass market, more for Culpeper and much less for Fairfax. Whether competition for selection (Total, Wine Cabinet and other locally owned shops) or price (Total, Costco) Fairfax, when their opening settles down, this is not a shop that a lot of us who are serious about wine will return to. For me that is a HUGE disappointment. On another board I have for several years been a huge fan of Wegmans. I've been in a lot of their stores and a lot of other grocery stores on several continents. I believe that someone has seriously misjudged the market for wine in Fairfax. Although they have three inch thick cuts of prime beef for $24/lb in their meat case they have a really limited selection of wine to drink with it. And, excepting a few shelves thirty yards away, it's not on the same floor. I sincerely hope that their managers check out a few wine shops and Costco in addition to Super H for produce; in fact bringing some elements, selection and marketing tactics of Calvert Woodley or MacArthur to Fairfax wouldn't be such a bad idea. I'd even approach a few of the salesman who have followings in these stores. If Wegmans is going to do wine in a market as competitive as this they should be doing it right-not just one upping Giant or Safeway which to me seems their goal. And, last, one aisle on the main floor with four shelves of bottles is not a great idea. They're going to pay a serious price for not integrating the wine shop and selection better with the rest of their store. I'd have displays in the butcher shop, fishmonger, even the Hermes shop. Because it's Wegmans, and one of their largest stores in arguably the wealthiest county in America, I expected better.

I don't like how the wine section (a separate store, if you will) is laid out on a different floor. Also, some of the prices are HIGH, especially considering that Costco is a couple of blocks away and is 30% lower on some of the same bottles. Although this "department" is larger than Sterling I don't like it as much. In fact, to be honest, I prefer the Sterling Wegman's.

There was a three minute ovation from all fifty of us at the end of the dinner. The $120 was a bargain for a dinner on this level. There was also a $15 corkage charge which is extremely reasonable and wine was offered by the glass and from their VERY fairly priced wine list. Approximately 11 of the 14 dishes were not available on their menu. It was an extraordinary dinner that most thought, at a minimum, on par with the Maestro 14 course blowout last February. Based on the dinner last night I honestly and sincerely believe this restaurant is on the level of Maestro, Citronelle and Laboratorio-at their best. My guess is that a number of the dishes will be, over time, introduced onto the nightly menu. Sietsema's review comes out this Sunday. My guess, is that as a new restaurant he'll give Black Salt three stars. Still, as some of these and other dishes are introduced, it will only get even better. I also sincerely wish that he could have experienced last night-he would give it four. I supplied the violane nano arborio for the risotto, carrying it from Le Calandre, the Michelin three star near Padua. It was perfectly cooked and on par with the risottos I've had there as well as the best of Maestro and Laboratorio. I think everyone had their own favorites for the dinner. (Mine, respectfully, was the foie gras presentation which I enjoyed more than the superb foie gras risotto at CityZen.) But Jeff Black, Susan, Doug and 20 or so others went all out for a dinner that lived up to my unbelievably excessive hype! (!?!) I cannot thank them enough for the incredible effort, energy and imagination that they put into it. I also thank the fifty who shared this four hour + experience. As a native born Washingtonian who has seen D. C. slowly rise from very real dining mediocrity, I cannot tell you how proud I am that Black Salt is in D. C. Not San Francisco, not New York, not San Sebastian. But D. C. Thank you, Jeff Black.

Kinkead's which remarkably, never receives any mention on this board. Dinner at their bar, even at the tables around it, would be perfect.

Maestro has the best service in the D. C. area. For wine Vincent, (Maestro) Mark (Citronelle, on this board) and Todd from Restaurant Eve (also on this board) are superb. Overall table service, though, I really believe is Maestro. I don't know if this helps since I do not focus on your specialty. Personally I think that CityZen is not on the level of these three.

I totally agree with the previous comments about Ten Penh, DC Coast and Ceiba. They all would be excellent suggestions as would the Old Ebbitt Grill which would also fall within your budget. The area around 14th and PA is beautiful and exciting. Just walking down the street and seeing Washington in this area will be a real highlight of your trip. Also, give serious consideration to having a drink on the "roof" of the Hotel Washington at 15th & PA. The view is awesome! And, respectfully, unless you don't drink at all, raise your $100 limit to $150 at many restaurants. With $25 to 28 entrees in most places, appetizers, 9.5% sales tax, etc. D. C. adds up. For Italian you may want to consider Tosca at 11th & F, a couple of blocks away. If seafood is a priority than Kinkead's at 20th and PA. although reservations on short notice can be difficult. The latter two are exemplery and will deliver experiences you won't find in Raleigh. Enjoy D. C. This is one of the most beautiful cities anywhere.

I totally agree with your insightful comments. I would also add that it is not to the advantage of anyone in the industry in NY to grant acceptance to our (or any other East Coast city's) excellence. Chefs such as Roberto, Michel, Bob Kinkead and Jose Andres in a sense sponsor training grounds for understudies who, when they strike out on their own, tend to stay or return to here. (i.e. CityZen) When a chef such as Fabio, who I believe is as talented as anyone in America, fails to win the Beard rising star award two years in a row it sends a signal to many that they are better off starting out or moving to New York. Not here. I also believe that it is outrageous that Roberto and Michel have not even been nominated for the national award while here. Again, for them to be nominated, to win, would be counter productive for the New York based Beard society. As a native born Washingtonian there has long been a resentment on the part of many of us for a lack of recognition from Manhattanites who look down on anyone living outside of their island. This is not the place for a discussion like this but it IS an element that must be factored in. Curiously, Parisians are very similar as are many in London. I remember a discussion once with a Londoner on an airplane about my liking Manchester and his view of it as a bit better than a third world town.

The absolute best chocolate in Switzerland is Sprungli outside of Zurich. They also have two shops in the Zurich airport. I would rank their truffles with the Chocolate Line in Brugges as the best I have ever had. (I've eaten a LOT of chocolate in France, Belgium and Switzerland!) Also, their liquor chocolates as well as 1/2 inch thick 3" x 6" "bars" of which I think hazelnut is the best. I am eating one of these as I type having just returned from there. With a glass of red wine from Montreux all is right with the world.

Archibald's? Incredible. My roomate and best friend....in 1971...was the night manager there. Many was the night he would bring an employee (s) home to discuss business. I can't imagine what some of his former employees look like today. Or him for that matter. Or me!

Sweet white corn, spargel in Germany, white Alban truffles in March-no problem. Out of a can. I also think that some restaurants DO exist to "further ideas about local harvests or produce." Simply, there is much to be said for fresh produce in season. There is more to be said for the best of this, picked fresh and served simply to taste the excellence of the season. Not hyperbole but truth. A ripe Hanover County tomato in the middle of July is much more delicious than a vine riped tomato from Whole Foods in January. I know of no other way to say this. Of course some may prefer 1% milk to Lewes Dairy cream top. Others, reading this, have no idea what I am talking about: cream top milk? What's that? For them my argument has little meaning. For those who know the difference it is worth everything.

I stand by my opinion of his "Moroccan" mussels and invite others to try them and post their thoughts on here.

Anything fried (whole bellied clams, calamari), all mussel dishes especially "Moroccan" which includes preserved lemon and feta cheese-the sauce is unbelievable (Black Salt's Moroccan mussels equal anything I have had in Belgium let alone Mannequin Pis or Bis), clam chowder, Zarzuela (offered as one of three daily stews) Portugeuse (offered occasionally), oyster po'boy (for lunch), Tiramisu (yes, tiramisu) in a Martini glass, her chocolate peanut butter cake was featured in Food & Wine a year or two ago. Most of the small plates are excellent. Most of the main courses are excellent. Because I'm used to the Narrows crab cakes (among others) I've found Black Salt's disappointing. Sugar cane shrimp are very good as is his pate. Oysters are expensive but outstanding. Jeff Black sources the best raw ingredients he can find-bear this in mind when ordering.

"But that doesn't mean Washington's marketers have erased the District's image as a government town, a place of mediocre food and bland cultural offerings." This is the reporter who volunteered these words, his attempt to describe what Marian Burros noted in her article. I don't remember anywhere, at anytime that anyone has described DC as "culturally bland." Not even Burros. Nor having grown up here do I remember anyone having a negative comment about "cultural offerings" since the '60's when there were temporary buildings on the Mall. In fact Washington usually rates among the two or three highest of all American cities in surveys which track impressions such as these. I would suggest that the reporter and the editor from the Post think twice about the name that precedes the word "Post." It would be appropriate if the Washington Post, from time to time, thought a little bit more of the city it was founded in and had a bit more pride in it. Indeed, Washington, D. C. perceived as having "bland cultural offerings." By whom?

The story was totally ruined by the last paragraph where the reporter repeated Marian Burros' (who once lived and worked here) slurs without even noting her rave about Citronelle or Laboratorio. I couldn't believe he would end a story like this on such a disparaging note. Or that an editor would let the story run with it.

I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your taking the time to express yourself. This is a true pleasure as well as very interesting and eductional for me. You/your wife are also gifted to be able to write so beautifully! The last topic was particularly timely since having recently returned from Le Calandre (I live near Washington, D. C.) I have friends who do not and cannot associate this type of creativity with Italy. I find their attitudes particularly frustrating yet they have an image that is inflexible no matter what I say or what they may taste. Thank you for your effort and your knowledge.

"well, never apologizing for anything is a well-loved and, clearly, winning strategy in this our fine hometown" nm

Mark, what are your thoughts re my comments about Michelin three stars? I would guess that most actually lose money and are loss leaders for a related operation unless they charge exhorbitant prices. And some do. Such as Marc Veyrat. This is their menu which I am linking: http://www.marc-veyrat.com/aller/annecy/index1.htm The "Symphony" is 16 courses and E 360. At today's exchange of US $1.32 to the Euro this is US $475 prix fixe + wine. For two we are realistically looking at a dinner that will cost US $1200 + . Marc Veyrat makes money. But a dinner at the three star Le Calandre in Italy (considered by many to be Italy's best) is E 130 and Schwarzwaldstube, another Michelin three star considered by many to be Germany's best is E 125. Le Calandre stands on its own although it has a small hotel, coffee shop and deli across the street. Schwarzwaldstube is a loss leader for its 300 year old hotel in "The Village of the Grape." This hotel has 400+ rooms and three other restaurants; its reputation is built and carried by Schwarzwaldstube which has a six month lead time to get one of the eight tables in its dining room. El Raco de Can Fabes is another three star in Spain, some would say on par in its own, more traditional way, to the more famous El Bulli. El Raco is also E 140. But Santimaria, the chef/owner now has a restaurant in Madrid and a small inn to suppliment this as well as several other ventures. All four of these have small dining rooms. All four have a virtual army in the kitchen as well as the dining room. (Many literally work for free because of the credibility and status of the restaurant.) I cannot imagine that this would be practical here. I also cannot imagine that a restaurant could charge $475 prix fixe for dinner although some of the Japanese are now close. I'm suggesting that there are financial limitations to what a restaurant can do at the highest level unless there is either a willingness to sacrifice or a related business to offset and capitalize from the loss. I'm just curious for your thoughts or the others on this board?

Interesting consideration: Several years ago I actually drove from DC to New Haven to eat pizza at both Pepe's and Sally's and then returned. An absurd trip but I actually thought it was worth it! Still, I don't know how a star/stars could describe them.

Black Salt IS an attempt for the highest level from the perspective of what goes on the plate. Frankly, for me, the fact that it's essentially neighborhood casual is a plus. I would imagine for some, walking in off the street and knowing nothing about this restaurant, they would be floored by how good it is in relation to their expectations. I agree that DC does not have nearly as many first rate restaurants as NY or SF. But having said this I think that Black Salt is on par with Aqua when the chef/owner was still there before his move to Vegas. Not in style, but for what is on the plate. The analogy I used in my first comments (near the start of this thread) was to Flying Fish in Seattle whose chef won a regional James Beard Award. The discussion of definition of a four star restaurant is an interesting one since there are varying definitions of what constitutes one. I am guessing that Tom Sietsema will agree with you that part of the definition is service, silverware, china, etc. I've noted on here on the Int'l board about dinners that I had last year in Germany's Black Forest at the three Michelin star Schwarzwaldstube and the two Michelin star Bareiss where this was the finest I've ever experienced anywhere. Wine service at Bareiss included E 600 Portugeuse (Topazio) decanters and Riedel Sommelier bordeaux glasses. For this level I believe that Michelin EXPECTS a minimum standard of wine service and table settings along with correct placement of silverware, it's timely removal, serving from the right, etc. There is a very real level of luxury inherent in this that costs the restaurant a great deal of money and effort just to attempt to qualify for the third star. Maestro comes closest to realizing this here yet to realize the third star would probably necessitate having a second sommelier to assist Vincent. My guess is that realistically Maestro would have two stars. I would also guess that Citronelle would have two as would The Inn at Little Washington. (Three Michelin starred restaurants usually have service tables for each pair or three tables in a dining room. These tables, also, are oversized such as having two seated at a "fourtop" and four at a table for six. Also, most Michelin three stars have from 8 to 15 tables often with no more than 25 or 30 dining at one time. As many as 10 or 12 will be in the kitchen cooking for this number and six to eight in the dining room, serving. Both Citronelle and Maestro have ten or eleven in the kitchen-cooking for as many as 90 seats, approximately double the number or more of seats in the Michelin three stars.) Laboratorio would probably have one since it lacks the luxury and style of the previous three yet what goes on the plate is equal to any-anywhere. (four or five including Roberto with probably an average of 25 in the Lab at one sitting) I think Black Salt, in its second year, would have one star for the same reason. I say all this and use the Michelin analogy since it is a specific part of their evaluation and criteria for their top level. It is possible that Sietsema, the New York Times (which has a four star system also), etc. will include this as part of their evaluation allowing the Michelin values to color their perception. But El Bulli is not elegant. Arguably, Canada's best restaurant is Eiginsinn Farm, literally a farm house 100 miles north of Toronto. For years one of the two or three best restaurants in Los Angeles was Chinois on Main. Chinois is as casual as Black Salt. Laboratorio is unique: it has four stars from Sietsema yet is totally dissimilar from Maestro, more casual if you will. For me I believe that Black Salt is as good as Kinkead's when Kinkead's was at its best five or six years ago. Kinkead's then was certainly not elegant. There was nothing in common with a dozen other DC restaurants that were far more luxurious, with better tableware, wine service, etc. Yet for many Kinkead's was considered as one of DC's best restaurants, if not its best. Using a four star system, considering luxury and style of service, it would not have qualified for four stars. But to me it seems an injustice not to give it four since the food was creative and delicious. Black Salt also does an $84 chef's tasting menu which most DC area restaurants do not do. It has a back room behind the second dining room with a private table for eight. This IS set up for a serious formal dinner. While the rest of the restaurant is much more casual, how could you NOT consider it for the top rating if you were sitting in this room? You could also sit at the bar and have the $84 tasting there. You would leave with a totally different impression from what you may have had in back room. Just as sitting at the cramped bar at San Francsco's Gary Danko where the chef's tasting menu is also available. Danko feels like Citronelle in the dining room. Yet their bar has a lot in common with many restaurants several levels below it. Danko is considered by most to be SF's best restaurant. Chinois and Emeril's first restaurant in New Orleans both have food bars in the back of their restaurants. Both have closely spaced bar seats similar to Danko where the complete menu is available. For many, in Emeril's first several years it was considered New Orleans best restaurant. Yet sitting at the food bar there, or at Chinois, or at Danko you would definitely not have the experience of luxury. It would be about what was on your plate. For that matter Emeril's brick walls, stone floor and beamed ceiling has a lot in common with Black Salt. And Black Salt has a lot in common with all of these for what you are served.

"However, I think you may experience more reasonable discussions if you do not call it "wrong." It also may help if you do not cast aspersions on others' integrity without presenting reasonable evidence to back it up." I reacted as I did similar to the way you reacted to me. If you scroll back you'll note that I am the first person to rave about this restaurant. I have three or four posts on here, talking at length about its excellence. Your initial comment of "a two star kind of place" without any detail about the dinner other than one off the menu course sparked this. My wife and I often differ about whether the exact same dish is even good or bad. But I respect her taste and her opinions because I know that she actually tried what I did. I did not read that in your initial post. I read it three or four times before I responded and felt that you were making a statement that was not based on having experienced the restaurant sitting in its dining room. Now, understanding what you meant by the "two star kind of place" comment, I understand that I was wrong to interpret your comments as I did. I suspect that some others reacted similar to myself and, probably, some reacted as you intended. Still, I felt the need to defend/explain myself as well as note the efforts of the restaurant's excellence. In any event I suspect that our reactions were similar to each other yet for very different reasons. Neither of us thought the other was being fair, neither of us thought the other was explaining what seemed to be a judgment. I accept that I was too strong in some of what I said. Although I understand why I did write what I did, now, knowing your intentions and "star system" I now view your comments differently. From that perspective I was wrong.

It has the food of a four star, not the style. The "review" went into virtually no detail about the food they had. For the comment "two star" type of place I would like to know specifically why it is that? Simply, I know that when I have certain dishes and they are excellent, for someone else to say they are less, well they are entitled to their opinion. Of course. But I would really like to know specifically what he had and where, specifically, he would direct me for a better version of a particular dish. It's not just that I've eaten at so many places around the U. S. I have. But I also cook myself, seriously. What I've been served at Black Salt, almost without exception, is superb. When I see a review that is really a slam (contradicting my earlier posts and evaluating a step above merely "good") I cannot help but question specifics which have been overlooked. At some level it is about my own credibility. At another level it is respect for the effort of those in the kitchen and what they are doing. This is a serious restaurant and I cannot overstate my respect for the effort, and our good fortune to have it here. But he said very little about what he had IN the restaurant for dinner. The review immediately above his went into a great deal of detail in their comments. Detail about each individual course. For me it is easy to compare my opinions and values to their's. I may disagree but at least I know WHY they didn't like a particular dish or as much as I. For the person who said "two star kind of place" I have absolutely no idea what their standards are or what their taste is other than they recognize it's a fairly casual restaurant and have an impression that a "four star" restaurant should be elegant (which I think is wrong). For me, four stars can be on the plate. Maestro, Laboratorio, Citronelle, The Inn-I personally add Black Salt to this list as I would have added Kinkead's in its prime. Last, why is questioning whether or not he actually had dinner IN the restaurant a personal attack? Read his comments again. There is virtually no discussion of the food that was served IN the restaurant other than one special dish which he requested. There is nothing in his comments for me to compare my opinions to despite my having had much of their menu at this point. I am asking a serious, sincere question: DID he have dinner in the restaurant? I believe this is a valid question. Certainly, as valid as the impression left from the comment"a two star kind of place" for the casual reader. There is also another possibility here. And it is epistemelogical since his definition of a "four star kind of place" could incorporate ambience, style, Moser crystal, Herend china, teams of servers as the definition for a four star. If this were true-that style, ambience, elegance and such are part of the precondition for a four star then his valuation is "bang on." Black Salt is a long way from, say, Maestro. My intention in my original post and the subsequent ones has been focused exclusively on food and taste with little regard for elegance or ceremony. Still, even the best bbq joint I've been to (Skylight Inn or Luling City Market) would not be a four star. There is just something lacking for both; yet they would still be a three star. Even with the knife attached to the link chain hanging from the picnic table. But Black Salt, for me, has enough of a wine list (very good sommelier, too) and enough enthusiasm, friendliness and warmth to compensate for crystal, sterling silver and flared nostrils. Realistically, Tom Sietsema will probably give this three stars. But I really think it has a legitimate claim to four based on the plate and the overall enthusiasm which for me is everpresent. Personally, if I were reviewing it, I would give it four stars.

You say two stars out of four. I firmly believe this is a serious contender for four stars. Yet in your comments you say virtually nothing about what you ordered other than a request for grilled squid or lobster tails (carryout?) and disappointment with not having a booth. Having had virtually his entire menu at this point over four visits I would like to know specifically what you had and your reaction to the specific dishes. Did you have his fried calamari or fried whole belly clams? Clam chowder, shrimp bisque? Any of the six mussel preparations which are all on par with the best in Bruxelles? Portuguese seafood chowder? Zarzuela? Filet mignon of tuna? The simple but superb tiramisu in a Martini glass? Why would you ask for a special preparation of a dish in a restaurant you are visiting for the first time? What DID you have? You only note one dish yet maintain "a two star kind of place." This is a serious addition to D. C., easily on par with Kinkead's at its absolute best. I'm sorry, but it is a real discredit and truly misleading to say this is worth only two stars. I strongly, STRONGLY disagree. I think their now three week wait for reservations on Friday and Saturday speak to the perception of overall exceptional excellence that the general public has reacted to. I also am a serious amateur cook and have personal respect for the effort that goes into long cooked and reduced stocks for soups, stews and sauces, for sourcing impeccibly fresh fish and shellfish, for the effort that a truly talented pastry chef puts in and what shows up on my plate from her long hours of effort. Black Salt is exemplery. If you are going to "slam" it with a pedestrian two star evaluation then go into specifics about the particular dish you had and why you feel it should be considered as such. Many of their dishes I will directly challenge you on for their excellence; I can't help but wonder if you actually had dinner at this restaurant. Black Salt may be casual and have a neighborhood feel but on the plate it has much of the excellence of Le Bernardin. I should also note that my reaction to your post will cause some to feel that I am "bullying" you and not allowing you your own opinions. Yet I cannot help but react as I am having sampled so much of what this restaurant offers. I also cannot dismiss the efforts of those in the kitchen without knowing in detail why you feel the way you do. If you feel their fried calamari or clams are "two star" then WHERE would you go for something better? Essex, MA, Milano, where? Who prepares shrimp bisque with more depth of flavor, has a better Portugeuese stew? I make this and have a tremendous amount of respect for their effort, knowing the complexity and time that it takes to make this dish. I'm sorry but I just can't let what I consider to be a slight, "two star kind of place" pass so easily for the many who read this board.

This is a topic that I cannot resist offering an opinion or two. She is going to be limited by her budget and the overall direction that the Post will allow her to take it in. In part the budget will be dictated by advertising and I am guessing that as she is able to grow reveue for the section itself, so will she grow its breadth. Respectfully, but I believe some type of discussion of wine is absolutely essential. I also see no reason why bottles in the $40 to 100 range cannot be discussed occasionally just as values in the $10 range can also be discussed. There is an audience for both and credibility for one can be related to the other. A lot of an author's credibility is their taste and the ability of the reader to relate to it based on their own experiences. I don't expect the Post's writer to take the place of the Wine Spectator or Parker. But in this, one of the most competitively priced cities in America for wine as well as one of the few that allows direct importing, I think there is an opportunity for informative as well as interesting writing that can relate to this. I like Jane and Michael Stern. I've followed them for 25 years since their first book. Over the years they have led me to countless restaurants around the U. S. that I've been able to stop at during business travel. The Post's old "Crummy but Good" column was in the same vein. While I may not have always agreed with his opinions I thought the concept, similar to Jane and Michael but locally based, was excellent. I would like to see the Post resurrect this. This isn't so much a review that I am suggesting as it is a weekly column dedicated to "discovery." I would like to see a weekly feature on a local supplier. Heidi Morf makes incredible goat cheese in Flint Hill, VA, Lewes Dairy has cream top milk and pasteurized cream worthy of any White Mountain freezer-whatever happened to Arrow live poultry near Chinatown? There are countless artisinal suppliers, farmers, ranchers, dairymen-characters worth writing about. I remember a couple in Orange, VA who had moved to DC from the Caribbean and opened a restaurant IN their home. Survivors of the '60's incense burned in the entry when you opened the door . Everyone who ate there literally became a member of their family for the few hours they sat at the table, sometimes served by their children. True characters, unique and interesting, worthy of a discussion. I would like to see a monthly feature that incorporates humor and personality which introduces a unique perspective to food. Two examples come to mind. The first is the following link: http://www.chowhound.com/boards/intl3/messages/12263.html Because my "background" is from another board I am familiar with most of the essays on it over the past four or five years. This link is to the best of all that I ever read. I have no idea where the authors are today. The second is one that imodestly I wrote, entitled the "5,000 Mile Hamburger." This is the link to it: http://www.chowhound.com/boards/general18/...ages/64210.html Over several incarnations this received about 250 responses. I would also like to see an occsasional reminiscense to the DC of another time: YWCA chocolate chip cookies, Stephenson's bakery in Anacostia, Kennedy street, NW in the '50's where Jerry's Sub Shop got its start, just up from Weihle's Ice Cream (home of the $30 Lincoln Memorial sundae) and the Alpine where Link Wray was the house band. Obscure, well yes. But for many DC really is a hometown and this speaks to that. I believe there is something special when a paper such as the Post carries pride in continuing the rich tradition of the city it is a part of. Most of Washington today has no idea that DC ever had an identity that someone could refer to as their "hometown." Willard Scott did when he was a "Joy Boy" in the 60's and '70's. But this is DC as Cincinnati, Pittsburgh and Dallas with hometown flavor and hometown pride. I think the Post because it was part of it and still is should be the flag bearer for this pride. I cite these as examples of occasional features which could lend another perspective to the Food section to compliment those above. Collectively these represent personality, information and the opportunity to present local excellence (i.e. suppliers, local roadfood) to a wide audience. I am one of those who does not believe that recipes are the foundation of a Food section. I think they are indispensable as well as important and expected. But I believe there are other features which present local character and local excellence that can set the Post's Food section apart.

Thanks, Steve. I really appreciate the nice words. (I once paid a girl $5.00 to eat an oyster in high school. Two dozen later she told me that she felt guilty for eating all of them and not sharing.) I went back to Black Salt last week with six others and unlike the first lunch (their third day) this was extraordinary. Jeff Black was in the kitchen, too. I think this is why Sietsema visits a restaurant three or four times or more before writing a review. Our first lunch was their third day of luncheon operation and several had called in sick. A later dinner and the recent lunch were extraordinary. Still, to be honest, with my wife having ordered crab cakes at our last lunch I think this may be their weakest dish. Carol is used to the Narrows, Angelina's, Jerry's, Suicide Bridge, the Cove (Crisfield) etc. Black Salt's strengths lie elsewhere as does Kinkead's and almost all DC restaurants with the exception of the Prime Rib. I'm really anxious to taste his Portuguese seafood stew now. By the way the garlic bread was the same garlic bread that Maria's 300 used to make in the early '70's in Little Italy, i.e. for two loaves of Cardinal Italian bread I use 3/4 lb of unsalted butter, one head of minced garlic, grated Reggiano to cover all, dried oregano, hot pepper flakes and caraway seed. Maria's claimed to have served it to Al Capone in the late '20's and never to have changed their recipe. Well, they're gone now (IRS) but it's still the best garlic bread I've had; it's just that nobody takes the time to make it like this anymore. Seriously, thanks for the kind words. Much appreciated!