Joe H

Their wine list is not lengthy but it is quite good for its length and reasonably priced. (Dal Forno Valpolicella was E 70, Ama CC E 30 a year ago) But this is not a restaurant that you would expect to find a ten or twenty page list. My guess is that the GR rating is accurate depending on expectations. For comparison Da Fiore receives 14 from GR in their 2004 Guide, a point lower than Testiere. For service Da Fiore is two points higher (9 to 7) but this is a reflection of the style of restaurant including both the room, space, etc. As for food I think they are low-this, for me, is equal to any single starred restaurant that I've been to in Italy. Over the last 15 years I've probably been to 20, maybe 30 or more (for whatever that may mean!). Again, there is no set menu; what is served depends on the market. I probably feel that the word "personal" could be used to describe it. It's not creative in the sense of Calandre or Uliassi; nor do I ever remember a risotto. But extraordinary mussels, many different preparations of fish-both traditional for the area and untraditional. This is really a small, friendly, unique restaurant to go and trust whatever the enthusiastic, personable server suggests. There is almost a "neighborhood" type of feel to it that welcomes those who dine there.

Cy, I think you should ask Joe or A_broad, I never ate there. I know it's in the guide since I had a look at Venetian restaurants only yesterday: my parents will be travelling to Venezia soon and asked me if I had any tips for them. Considering the Italian customs I'd imagine one. Italians are usually not familiar with the concept of sittings. Once you have a table it is yours for the evening or as long you want to occupy it. ← Testiere is, in truth, cramped with little elbow room. It is not a negative since it actually adds to its overall appeal. But it is not a restaurant to spend a long time in. In five or six visits I don't think my wife and I have ever stayed longer than two hours unlike many other Venetian restaurants which seem to have only one turnover. I really believe most of the tables turn over twice in part because of the demand, in part the ambience or style of the restaurant. On most of our visits when we've been seated next to someone else who was already a course or two ahead of us, when they left, someone else took their place.

Not entirely true. It is not mentioned by Slow Food because it's over the € 35 mark, but it is in Michelin (with a single fork and spoon, or whatever the symbol is called), and on the Gambero Rosso Guide with 77 points. ← My apologies. We first went about five or six years ago and I just assumed that because it was not in Michelin then that was still true. Cy, we've gone as early as 7:30 and, when leaving at 9 or so noted several standing at the door waiting for our table.

Alle Testiere is an absolute gem. The reasonably priced menu changes every day and the wine list is fairly priced and quite good. This is also an enormously popular restaurant and perhaps the most difficult reservation in Venice, in part because there are only 30 seats. Curiously it is not mentioned in Michelin, Gambero Rosso, Slow Food, Veronelli or any guide book that I am aware of. It is also one of the best restaurants in Italy. If it received the press and acclaim that it deserves we would never get into it!

http://www.locandastelladoro.it/ is their website. Yes, I'm back. Don't ask! And, yes, we leave for Italy on Tuesday. With the Euro brushing $1.35 today it may hit 1.40 while we're there! ....if we're "lucky" we'll be there for the record! Le Calandre (four Decembers in a row) , Sostanza (superb bisteca), Beccofino and an intriguing Veronelli starred place that no one has ever heard of: Lo Strettoio in the hills outside of Florence. Highlight of the trip, though, is returning to Dal Forno. Last week I "accidentally" opened a bottle of his '97 Amarone (another long story: in dim light his Valpolicella and Amarone look similar!). After discovering this and crying-I was saving it for retirement!-I remember him telling me to open it, then put the cork back in and drink it 24 hours later. We did exactly that. Honestly, this may have been the single greatest bottle of red wine I have ever tasted! Serious. And I've drank a lot of wine, too!!! Needless to say I unexpectedly announced my retirement, too, last week.

The Frog (Jean Louis Palladin) and the Redneck (Jimmy Sneed) who now is in Vegas. He was nominated for a Beard award while he was there and originally worked for Palladin at Jean Louis. A serious restaurant that we would drive from D. C. to go to about once a year just as we go to Charleston once a year or so now.

Cindy Wolf is several levels above what she was in D. C. and several levels above every other restaurant in Baltimore. I would compare Charleston to Kinkead's as the D. C. restaurant most similar although I much prefer the ambience and style of Charleston. For me the restaurant that Charleston would be most similar to is Jimmy Sneeds' old Frog and the Redneck in Richmond. For Baltimore Charleston is expensive; by D. C. standards it is reasonably priced. This is not Maestro, Citronelle or Laboratorio; it is a strong three star (with the others four) that stands out in Baltimore.

Interesting. Not a single mention of what is clearly Baltimore's best restaurant, Charleston.

Well, actually yes, and it will be one of the highlights of your trip, La Fournace di Barbablu which is a Michelin starred 2,000 year old Roman furnace. In fact some of the stone from the Coliseum in Rome came from this place. Serious. This is the link to a post that I made a couple of years ago about it on Chowhound: http://www.chowhound.com/boards/intl4/messages/17143.html. Cy, it's the most unique, perhaps romantic restaurant that I've ever been to anywhere. Click on the link in the CH post and it will take you to their website. There are a number of photographs yet none can do it justice. It is truly extraordinary. It is also virtually undiscovered. On the other board I was the first to post about Le Calandre three years ago, the first to post about Il Postale two years ago; the La Fournace post has yet to see a single person to go it that I know of. The other two have now seen many visits as a result You will not have a dinner on par with Calandre but it will still be excellent. What you will have is among the most unusual places on earth, with an incredible history, to have it in. You will also be one of the very few English speaking people to ever dine there. Sooner or later Apple or someone else is going to write about this place and it will be discovered and overrun with Americans and English. Until then it is an extraordinary gem, perhap the discovery of all my travelsnot for the food-which is excellent-but the overall experience. Trust me. There is a hook, Cy. We found it by accident when we were looking. If not for that we probably would never have found it. It's directly underneath the Autostrada but getting to it from the Autostrada is a true challenge. I actually think this is one of the reasons that so few English speaking tourists have been there. The best clue that I can give you is the proximity of the Autostrade bridge, maybe 30 meters high which is nearby, and the restaurant's appearance which IS the appearance of a 2000 year old furnace on a hillside. My wife and I were driving around, lost and about to give up, when I saw something in the distance and I said, "you know if anything ever looked like what I would imagine this place to look like, wel, this is it. But it's not where it is suppose to be." It was it.

The point is that they have very good French Onion soup with flavor that Lipton's will not give you. I've used some Knorr seasonings before and found them to really be surprisingly good. We probably disagree on the the broth. I believe that nothing takes the place of a long cooked stock reduction.

Both my wife and I have had the onion soup at L'auberge. It is NOT Lipton's but rather seems to incorporate a homemade stock.

No, not there but the best "store bought" that I've had were the original David's cookies in the '70's hot from the oven. The photo looked seriously interesting, though!

Still, the best chocolate chip cookie I've ever had. Unfortunately they are long gone.

I have no idea when Watermen's opened. The earliest Chesapeake Living award is, I believe, from '95. Much of Rock Hall's harbor area looks fairly new. There may be 7 or 8 larger restaurants along with approximately 15 marinas. Suicide Bridge should be given equal billing with Watermen's and Jerry's. As for Jerry's it has long been considered the best restaurant in Prince George County which is not necessarily a distinction. A distinction it does have is that on Saturdays there will be a line at 4:00 in the afternoon, thirty minutes before their doors open and the line only lengthens as the evening progresses. If you are not in line by 4:20 you will not get in for the first seating. I know this sounds like hyperbole but it, unfortunately, is true. We drove 35 miles from Reston to eat there and gave up after standing in line for almost two hours one Saturday around 6. It was a month later when we arrived at 3:50 that we actually got in. We were not the first in line then. If you go try and go on a weekday or evening. Suicide Bridge is actually a complex of buildings; you may have a wait but it shouldn't be a long one. What is unique about this restaurant is its isolation-it literally stands alone in the middle of nowhere. It is not easy to find. I linked all of these to their websites in a post on the D. C. board.

I have not been to Bern's in about five years. On my last trip (which was one of four since the mid '80's) I once again left somewhat disappointed. Despite the passion when he was alive and the several hundred page wine list I simply do not believe that this is among America's best steak houses. It does not compare to Luger's, Sparks, Edmunds, OK's Boulevard or even Orlando's original Del Frisco's (not part of the Lone Star chain). The wine list, on all four visits, did not have a number of the wines that I requested. Most were rather obscure; even with studying it for 30 or more minutes I did not find a particular bargain. When I thought I had they were out of it. A lot of style, a big presentation. Great desserts in the separate upstairs room. But for steak and for sides I think there is better, even nearby.

Holly, the Skylight Inn and the Luling City Market in Texas are my two favorite bbq places. Perhaps Archibald's in Northport, AL, McClard's in Hot Springs would compete; I used to like the original Dreamland but it seems uneven now. Still, the person chop-chop-chopping at Pete Jones' place must have carpal tunnel syndrome! Ben's Chili Bowl will be a disappointment. For what it's worth I've driven over 20,000 miles a year on business for about 25 years around the U. S. and have the same obsession for food that you do. Long before there was Jane and Michael (which I am credited for several suggestions in) I would look up the Reader's Guide in local libraries for places, sometimes I would even call newspapers and ask for recommendations. Anyway, have you been to Jerry's Seafood in Lanham? Waterman's Crabhouse in Rock Hall? Have you had a crab cake at the Narrows in Kent Island? Had Maryland seafood at the Suicide Bridge restaurant or the Cove in Crisfield? Tony's River house in Benedict, MD? (chef is from Stoney's in Broome Island). Did you ever have a chocolate chip cookie at the YWCA in D. C. in the '60's, '70's or '80's? Forget Ben's Chili Bowl. Half smokes here predate it by decades. Go to Jerry's in Lanham and get a crab bomb, lump crab cake, cream of crab soup, stewed tomatoes, cole slaw and COCONUT CAKE. 90% as good as K-Paul's in New Orleans which Marty only makes on special order. Sometime drive down from Philly and go to Waterman's and sit outside on one of their two decks over the water. Cantler's recieves the publicity but Chesapeake Life magazine has voted Waterman's Maryland's #1 crab house every year since '95 for good reason. While there order cream of crab soup (served with a side of sherry), crab imperial, vegetable crab soup, exemplery cream thick chunk cole slaw. But mostly side outside on the deck under a tent over the water listening to '50's rock and roll. In the distance, 8 nautical miles out, is the Bay Bridge. This is the stop you want. It is to MD crab houses what Pete Jones' Skylight Inn is to Carolina bbq. Trust me.

Of the four that I mentioned in my first post (Inn at Easton, 208 Talbot, Narrows and Suicide Bridge restaurant) if you are coming by boat you would really like Suicide Bridge which is an idyllic setting in a quiet cove. In my opinion this is Maryland's best overall Maryland style/Eastern shore style seafood restaurant. What I mean by this is that it features fresh rockfish stuffed with lump crab imperial, cream of crab soup with lumps of crab meat on top (ask for a side of sherry), red vegetable crab soup and so forth. Totally dissimilar from the Inn at Easton or 208 Talbot which are both excellent but both represent a different take on Eastern shore cooking, if you will. It has received no attention on this board or Chowhound or Roadfood's forums despite having grown incrimentally since first opened in the 1920's. It is NOT the same kind of experience as the first two nor does it feature a similar cuisine. This is what you would find at Jerry's in Lanham except with ambience and a water setting. Website is: http://www.suicidebridge.com/ One more consideration for travelling by boat: if you like hard shell crabs, Maryland's best crab house is not Cantler's, nor Popes Creek, nor the Drift Inn, Evans, Red Roost, Crab Alley or any of the others I've been to over the years. It's Waterman's in Rock Hall which is 7 or 8 nautical miles from the Bay Bridge or, by car, a 48 mile drive. (Actually named Maryland's best crab house by Chesapeake Living magazine every year since the mid '90's.) They usually have jumbos steamed to order, exemplery cream of crab soup, crab imperial, very good lump crab cakes (not on par with the Narrows) and very good sides along with other fresh fish. But the big deal are the two outdoor decks with picnic tables on a pier flanking either side of a bandstand where on our last visit a six piece oldies band was playing. There are 15 marinas in the upscale Rock Hall, one of Maryland's most beautiful settings. Website is: http://www.rockhallmd.com/watermans/ Jumbo's by the way at Suicide and Waterman's are $45 a dozen; at Bo Brooks and Cantler's they are $75. This is a post of mine on another board about one weekend's trip searching for Maryland's best crab cake that you may find interesting: http://www.chowhound.com/midatlantic/board...ages/44130.html Lewnes was mentioned in another post. It is an Annapolis tradition and much preferred by me over Ruth's Chris literally 50 yards down the same street. It is interesting, dark with a warren of rooms-a lot of character. But the steak is no better than Morton's and the sides come up a bit short. Still, it is excellent, privately owned and worth seeking out. Just don't expect Luger's or Sostanza.

At both Maestro and Laboratorio my wife has reached the point where she starves for two days before dinner knowing that normally she could only get half way through either dinner!

There are three places "left" in Va that have original Electro Freeze machines: Carl's in Fredericksburg which has a national reputation, the Frozen Dairy Bar in Falls Church which is a shadow of what it once was and the best frozen custard of all and never publicized nationally, Klein's in Harrisonburg. The Weenie stand in Roanoke has branches in Lynchburg which are locally famous (although I don't think these compare to a lot of other places in Jersey, CT or upstate NY). The best bbq in Carolina and, maybe in America, is the Skylight Inn in Ayden which is worth the 100 mile detour off of I 95. Sweatman's in SC is good also but still a notch below as is Lexington #1. Anyway, typing this, the realization sets in that there are hundreds of places that I've been to that I could mention. Respectfully, but this is far too broad of a topic.

"and have had the tasting menu at the both Maestro (althought WAY too much food when you go on a birthday!) and Eve." Just an explanation for my using the expression "too much food" at Laboratorio, too.

One more thought: have you been to Jerry's Seafood in Lanham? Nondescript, buried in a small strip shopping center with no personality and absolutely no character this neighborhood dump is arguably Maryland's best seafood restaurant. It's not my favorite for a variety of reasons, all that have to do with ambience and setting, none that have anything to do with what they serve. Their $32.00 10 ounce lump crab bombe is extraordinary as are their exemplery crab cakes, cream of crab soup, homemade thick chop, creamy cole slaw, stewed tomatoes, serious in house coconut cake. There is one problem: they get really long lines that start at 4 in the afternoon on weekends. It is known and generally thought of as Prince Georges County's best overall restaurant despite its setting and "personality." If you haven't been this should actually be the purpose, if you will, of your trip. It's that good. On your way back to Philly, go across the Bay Bridge and have a crab cake at the Narrows. (Maryland's best) Then continue up 301 towards Wilmington with a slight detour (50 miles round trip) to Rock Hall and Waterman's Crabhouse. This is Maryland's best overall crab house. Serious. More so than Cantler's, Popes Creek, any of them. Even named this by Chesapeake Living magazine something like ten years in a row. Worth the trip.

For whatever reason Ben's Chili Bowl has received something of a national reputation primarily for its half smoke. Having been born in D. C. 57 years ago I can hoestly state that hundreds of places sold half smoked sausages in the '50's-before Ben's opened in 1958. One of these is a newsstand at Georgia Avenue and Eastern which I drove by last week for the first time in years. I remember first stopping there with my parents in elementary school and having a half smoke. It was really good. Ben's I went to in the early '60's when I worked at a Safeway at 14th and U and didn't want wings with Mambo Sauce. Ben's, then, was not a D. C. institution. Rather, it was cheap and decent. I think that Ben's today profits from so few remaining places that sell half smokes. Forty five years ago it was just one of many. I can tell you this though, Holly. In the early '60's when I first went to The Block and East Baltimore Street, Polock Johnny's blew up any D. C. halfsmoke!

I would pick Laboratorio over Citronelle if I can get table #7 which must be specified. There is a second table that they sometimes use which sits directly in front of the room but I've not seen this on every visit. Roberto will also serve you "too much food." There's twelve courses and it runs about three and one half hours or so. His style is actually quite different from Maestro. I've used the analogy in the past that Maestro is very similar to Le Calandre outside of Padua and Roberto reminds me of a restaurant like the old Guido near Alba. I would actually suggest that his food is more "approachable" if you will while Maestro is more spectacular with extraordinary combinations. Still, Roberto has several truly Great dishes such as a foie gras brulee as well as an egg shell which he fills with scrambled egg, reggiano and shaved white truffles. Orgasmic. Both of them! I am sincere in comparing both Maestro and Laboratorio with the two restaurants in Italy. They are THAT good.

I have been to The Inn five times since 1980. Two visits in the late '80's were superb and lived up to my expectations. My first and the last two were disappointments. It was also "demoted" by both Tom Sietsema (four stars to three) and Zagat (yes, Zagat!) from 29 points for food to 28 tying it with Maestro and Citronelle. The Inn, on Saturday night with a prix fixe hovering around $158 is more expensive than any other restaurant south of New York. With the wine list having a markup of 200 to 300% dinner for two with a "decent" bottle of wine on Saturday night approaches $600. If you want to sit at the chef's table in the kitchen, of which there are two, there is a $250 suppliment. For a party of four this raises the prix fixe to over $200. All of this is for fewer courses than are served at Maestro or Citronelle on their largest tasting menus. Currently, I believe that Maestro and Citronelle are our two best restaurants and each is on par with any in America. Laboratorio with Roberto in the kitchen fits in here also. Expectations are that CitiZen with the chef de cuisine from the French Laundry may rival these. There are further expectations for IndoChine (sp?) which opens next month downtown with two alumni from The Inn. Also, as Eve continues to evolve it aspires to this level also. I have never been to Nectar but have been to Palena and feel that it is a step or two below these although it is excellent in its own right. I should also note that neither Nectar, Palena, even Restaurant Eve are priced anywhere near The Inn or Citronelle or Maestro or Laboratorio. The last two's Grande prix fixe are $125 for what amounts to about 12 courses. Citronelle is more. For me, right now, Maestro and Laboratorio are the two best restaurants in the D. C. area along with Citronelle which may have the most creative and unique presentations of all. If you go to Laboratorio ask for table #7 which is five feet from Roberto. At Maestro ask for a table in the front of the room near where Fabio assembles the dishes. Both of these will make a difference in your appreciation of the restaurants.

Neither. Suicide Bridge near Hurlock, 208 Talbot in St. Michael's, The Easton Inn and The Narrows in Kent Island (for crab cakes and cream of crab soup).