Busboy

The difference between a well-done steak and a medium rare steak (unless it's a Flintstones-style Brontosaurus Standing Rib Roast or it's being cooked over a single lit match) should not be long enough to significantly extend a dining experience to beyond the already adequate 90 minutes. The problem is that the extra twenty to thirty minutes the customers extend the dining experience is inevitably after dinner. If the restaurant screws up and takes too long to get the food to the table then they can't very well expect the customer to be rushed out. THAT would be wrong. Clearly this isn't the case at Ray's. This is a professional operation at every level. The food and service are perfectly paced to stay within their own preferences to maximize their seating capacity. Michael's thoughtful response is further proof that Ray's is operating at the highest level of professionalism. The problem remains that many customers are utterly oblivious to the business needs of the restaurant, and frankly don't care. Restaurants aren't "businesses" - they are places to gather, eat, drink and be merry, regardless of whether it's adversely effecting the business or the other customers. And unfortunately, the adverse effect on the business is two-fold. They'll lose the second seating customer that night and for all eternity as well. Just so folks could linger over dessert. ← I have no problem with at all with Ray's or any restaurant that wants me out by a certain time and tells me up front. My experience at Ray's is that 90 minutes is plenty of time to eat and time well spent. On the other hand, to suggest that customers are selfish or lazy because they want to linger and talk after a good meal is ridiculous. I don't think it's my job to worry about the business needs of the restaurant any more than I worry about Microsoft's quarterly earnings statement. If a restaurant needs me to leave, they can tell me (up front). Otherwise I might the restaurant so much that I'll linger for a moment, despite what the accounting team thinks is best. Edited to add: an interesting and worthy topic, here. Should one of the Powers that Be break it into a new thread?

"Clearly, Mr. Shaw and Mr. Bruni are in cahoots here...." Does this mean that this discussion is just the smokescreen for the creation of a vast and powerful NY-based food criticism alliance?

We made the skirt steak with carmelized shallots and wine jus; spinach with garlic confit and glazed root vegetables and it was a damn swell menu. Cooking the skirt steak is easy as pie, but this is Keller so the jus is a time-consuming and relatively expensive project. The result is absurdly rich, and tastes disurbingly like a properly-done cheesesteak, sans provolone (or cheeze whiz). Because my life is empty and meaningless, and my office was closed, I hand-turned the turnips, rutabegas, carrots and red pearl onions. The results were astonishing -- almost worth the cramping fingers. The rutabegas, which are key, turn a compelling yellow while cooking and, once tossed together, (being Keller, all vegs must be glazed separately) with the orange, white and red of the other vegatables, the dish looked like the cover of a cooking magazine. Sure, it's only root vegetables, but it was cool looking, even if my son did say it was like having dessert with dinner (because of the sugar in glaze, not because he eats turnips for dessert). The dear boy also pronounced the spinach excellent, and we've been throwing leftover bits of garlic into almost everything lately, and the greens cut the richness of the other two dishes. We have also made the lemon tart several times. It is damn near idiot-proof and makes a great breakfast as well as a wonderful dessert. When he says "keep an eye on it while browning", believe him. If you look up and the thing carbonizes, you can strip off the burnt part and brown again. So we hear. We found that mostly-meyer with some "regular" lemon combination yielded noticeably better results than straight "regulars," but either way it's great and can be build ahead. Have fun.

What were you thinking? Since I stopped eating Sunday dinners at home damn near thirty years ago, I've had the good fortune to eat and to prepare food from all over the world. Still, there's nothing like a grilled steak and a properly baked potato -- no foil -- slathered with sour cream. (And, God help us, that wedge of iceburg lettuce is back in style, too). As to the best thing today: if you're ever in DC, hit Marcel's for the boudin blanc. My wife almost wept from joy as she ate it, but she still shared, bless her.

Two summers ago the family spent a week in Provence as the last half of a French vacation. By the time we caght the TGV back to Paris, we probably had eight bottles of Vacqueyras -- where we had stayed -- and Cote Ventoux, and four bottles of olive oil. None particularly expensive, but all souvenirs from ab extraordinary trip) Between packing, loading, hauling cases precariously balanced atop rolling suitcases from house to cab to train to cab to.... we started losing them bit by bit. It was like Napoleon's retreat from Moscow. A bottle or two in Avignon. A bottle or two at Gare du Lyon. A bottle loading up in Paris. And the final blow: when the cabbie opened the hatchback as he dropped us in the alley behind our house, the case containing many of our remaining bottles tumbled out, smashing one last bottle of Vacqueyras and the roll of film I got up a dawn to shoot at Mt. St. Michel. I think we lost half the oil and two-thirds of the wine before we got home.

I feel as though I'm in the minority, but I like pastrami at the 2nd Avenue Deli better than Katz's. And I once sat next to Jackie Mason at the Carnegi Deli in Midtown, so I feel assured by the quality there, as well, despite the fact that it's not actually kosher. No place is better to stumble into after a late-night binge than Vaselka's, which dknywbg mentioned upthread. Try the latkes. I suspect that I will never again spend a Saturday in New York without having lunch in the front room of the Grammercy Tavern.

I think this thread, by noted food critic Tommy, may have some useful information on Venice. I confess that I was too lazy (ok, hungover) to read through the whole thing but I went through it when it was originally posted and recall it as being brilliant and insightful, more or less.

My wife goes all traditional on me when we get to a restaurant swank enough to do formal wine service, so I always end up ordering, but not necessarily picking, the stuff. If she wants to do the tasting, or I want her to, I just point the sommeliere in her direction when the bottle is presented, and I've never had one so much as bat an eye. I don't think sommelieres should be faulted for defaulting to tradition in the absence of a signal from the table, but they should (and have always been, for me) be able to make adjustments without my having to clear my throat and announce loudly "the lady will be tasting the Mersault tonight." 'Course, we never had Rebel Rose's guy, either.

I was leafing through the Babbo cookbook last night found Mario touting oven-baked whole fish as the way real Italians eat real fish. The basic drill was gutting and finning the fish and removing the gills -- or having it finned and gutted for you, if you're me -- stuffing it with shaved fennel and spices and, after rubbing with olive oil, baking in noticeably high heat (450?) until just done. Drizzle a little olive oil and serve with lemon wedges. Mario proposes some elaborate fennel accompaniment, you could just confit fennel in olive oil with garlic and a little bay leaf, or even sautee spinach and throw the fish on top. The key, of course, is brutally fresh fish of a decent size -- something big enough that it won't turn to trout-dust if you cook it a second too long -- and not overcooking. Of course, that's what the key always is with fish. Good luck PS: Mario calls for individual sized fish, not, say, a megasalmon. It may have been Barzini(?) (Or was that one of the guys from The Godfather?) but I think striped bass or snapper would do.

I agree with a lot of Joe H.'s suggestions but resist the idea of churning out so many regular feature -- weekly supplier features, monthly humor and personality etc, especially on top of the existing features and the additional ones others have called for. Too many regular features give the anything a cookie-cutter feel, like something pasted together from wire services. And the search to come up with something, anything to fill the space dilutes the quality. A little anarchy and spontenaity can be a good thing, even if it does bring the occasional off week. There's a reason why so many jazz musicians stay fresh for decades, while so many other bands have a shelf life measured in weeks.

I had a brief but mostly satisfactory reminder of the importance of paying attention during wine service the other day. I oredered a half-bottle of '98 Chateau Meyney -- kind of a budget selection for the restaurant we were in, Le PAradou -- and, being in the middle of conversation kind of whiffed the wine and took an absent-minded sip and waved OK to the waiter, despite a vague feeling that something wan't right. By about half-way through the first glass, it was clear that the bottle was corked. Not badly corked, where it smells like a basement carpet after a bad flood, but not right, nonetheless. I called in Ms. Busboy for nasal and moral support (she rarely drinks red wine and hadn't tased this) the sommelier over and asked him to give it a sniff. In retrospect, I think that's probably a good approach --asking, rather than telling or worse, whining. The sommelier quickly backed me up and produced another half of the wine, and the difference between the two was obvious from the first sip. The onlt bad part? When we went to Bistro du Coin later for a nitecap. we saw the same bottle behind the bar, for a third of the price.

Even easier: they sell the stuff in cans at Dean & Deluca. At $30 a can.

I've been reading both the Post and the Times food sections less these days. Part of it, I think, is that after 20 years of reading the paper, there's just less to learn. And part of it is that the writing simply tends to be shallow. I don't mind shallow writing when it's amusing or informative -- my meager freelance efforts have contributed little to the world's store of knowledge. But I'd like to see a lot fewer 30-minute recipes and gauzy reminisces about long-dead granmas back in the Olde Country and local chef worship. Sorry 8Track, but between eG, Sietsema in the magazine and on line, Eve Ziebart in the Weekend Section and Todd Kleiman in the City Paper, stuff I think the scene is pretty well covered. I want to know the economics of a farmer's market -- and whether thery're a yuppie toy or a legitmate alternative food source for poor people. I'd like to see a bitchy article about changing gender roles while dining, featuring the waiter who got a new asshole ripped because he gave the check or the wine list to the man instead of the hostess, and a "modern" woman who won't date a man a second time because he accepted her offer to pay half. I'd like a look at out-of-season fruit as nuanced an passionate as the one going on here. I want someone to make fun of celebrity chefs who sell $50 books that tell you how to make peasant food, and then talk to a couple of peasants to see what they're really eating. Oh. And I'd like a lot more ethnic stuff, too. The food section can be food for thought, not just fodder for dinner. Edited to add: This is not really a rant about the Post, which I actually think does a pretty good job -- head and shoulders above most papers. It's just a general rant about the state of food journalism in general.

Pretty fucking easy to do when you get cherries in February. February! Those of us who actually have four seasons may get a craving or two for fresh fruit between now and June. BTW -- I still don't actually believe that FG got decent cherries from Chile. I think he's just bomb-throwing because Alice Waters said soemthing ditzy again or he read one to many restaurant opening press releases on recycled organic hand-knitted paper touting their commitment to "artisanal growers, and the local bounty."

Good show old boy. And especially to Mrs. Stretch who has finally found a way to keep you from spending the rent money following Mark around northern Virginia. Stephanie sends her best, too. Give us a ring when things get ugly, and we'll come 'round with one of those 2 Amy's pizzas you and the mobs of Arlington so love. And more scotch.

Ah, so really more of a supper club in which everybody gets to take home lots and lots of neatly packaged leftovers? That sounds like a very cool idea, particularly if the participants are all similarly involved in food but come from different backgrounds. And that would be economical in terms of both food (because you'd buy in bulk) and time. ← I think they actually have a day that they're responsible for, so each family cooks and delivers for a certain day. No group stuff. They cook whenever it's convenient for them and do their rounds at the appropriate moment. I know sometimes my friend Theresa cooks something that can be frozen on weekends and brings it around then, and sometimes she's in a panic because it's her night to deliver and she hasn't finished cooking yet. It probably arrives hot from the oven. I think it works because the only obligation is to get the food there on time -- and that it be a decent meal.

I have no firsthand experience with anything like this, but just from the sound of it, I'd suspect it'd be better for young singles or newlyweds with little cooking experience, and a desire to increase their knowledge and skills, as well as expand their social circle. I can see how it would quickly become another social obligation and a time-stealer causing you to be away from your family, exactly the opposite from what you're trying to accomplish. Agree with James. Somebody who cares enough about food to be active in eGullet's probably not going to be thrilled with this set-up. Seems kind of snippy. Boy, I sure didn't intend to be snippy at all. I actually thought it sounded like a lot of fun. But, just as I said, might have the potential to turn into more of a social evening than a practical and timesaving method to produce economical family meals. I remember my days with three young children and a husband to cook for, and while I never joined that type of group, several other things that I did join quickly became just another social engagement that kept me away from my husband and kids. I enjoyed most of them, but I didn't find them to be practical methods to accomplish much. (Except for one quilting group, where I did wind up with a quilt, I should add.) Edited to add: It seems to me that the thing to do, if there is such a group in your area, and if you find the concept interesting and/or appealing, would be to give it a try. It might be a great answer, and perhaps you'd enjoy the social aspect as well. You could always drop out if it wasn't meeting your needs. ← Actually, one thing these guys do is just cook their meals in their own homes, rather than en masse, so they can schedule their time as they wish. Also, they were acquainted before, so they probably had a decent gauge of culinary skills and preferences before they formed their arrangement.

That's for damn sure. Actually, you'll become a better cook because you'll learn to cook faster; you'll discover how to bring out flavors inherent in the meal; and (unless you have more money than we do) learn how to rely on your shopping and cooking skills than on expensive ingredients. As TK says, anyone can make a good filet mignon. It takes real skill to make a great short rib.

I have no firsthand experience with anything like this, but just from the sound of it, I'd suspect it'd be better for young singles or newlyweds with little cooking experience, and a desire to increase their knowledge and skills, as well as expand their social circle. I can see how it would quickly become another social obligation and a time-stealer causing you to be away from your family, exactly the opposite from what you're trying to accomplish. ← Agree with James. Somebody who cares enough about food to be active in eGullet's probably not going to be thrilled with this set-up. ← Seems kind of snippy. We have some friends who are in a similar arrangement and they enjoy it very much. As all the parents are in the same boat, it doesn't become another social obligation excepet when people want it to be -- they are friends, after all. And, while no one's probably going to take pictures of the food and put in on the "what did we have for dinner last night" eG thread, it is, by all reports, tasty enough for a Wednesday night. And, since the cooks are from different backgrounds and different countries, with different tastes, it breaks everyone out of their rut.

Check out the town of Mendocino other wise it's loggers and pot growers. or Anderson Valley for wine. ←

Keep in mind that the Georgetown Holiday Inn is not really in Georgetown, so you can't just walk out of the hotel and land in the thick of things. On the other hand, the Austin Grill and the new pizza place (mediocre) that used to be Faccia Luna are in the same strip as Heritage and are right around the corner, and are good places to kick back before or after dining and wine. Also, if they're in the mood for some rock and roll, they should stand outside the Grog and Tankard about 11PM if you're in the 'hood and see how the band sounds -- you'll be able to hear. The bands range from high school kids on their first gig to some really excellent groups. See also "The Zoo Bar." For guy food? Good Guys is just down the street, across from the Austin Grill. OK, I don't know if the serve food. Or wine. Actually, they're a strip club. But it is full of guys. Stretch is a Brit and, as such, has a limited palate and has yet to figure out that the best way to eat at Two Amy's is to sit at the bar and order the non-pizza menu items -- roast rabbit wrapped in pancetta, say or the strong and extraordianry mackeral dish they were serving one night. There are always seats, you get to watch the co-owner at work preparing the dishes -- and talk with him -- and you can eat like an Italian instead of a tourist. Good wines, too. That being said, going early or late is still a good idea. Cafe Milano in Georgetown is pretty Euro-butch, populated by alpha dogs of law and industry and the long-legged women who love them. More of a $2,000 Armani suit place than a leathers and boots place, but very guy-ish in it's own way, and with an excellent Italian wine list. Also in Georgetown proper is Bistro Francais, a good go-to joint for mid-range French food. After a day of Hog-oriented testoterone it strikes me that steak tartar, frites and red wine would be an appropriate meal. It's open until 4AM, in case they want to rock out at the G&T first. Club Asylum (near the McD's on 18th and Columbia) in Adams Morgan always has a dozen bikes parked out front. It appears to be 20-somethings in on their Suzukis and Moto Guzzis rather than 30- or 40-somethings on Harleys (and I don't know which your husband is), but since the demise of Old Mac's (in the late 70's) and The Crowbar (late 90's) it may be the closest thing to a biker spot around. Found this by accident a list of places near the hotel. Funny, they don't list Good Guys or the Grog and Tankard. Other than what has been suggested before I'll confirm that Busara and Rcoklands are pretty decent -- not much dining in Rocklands, but they can pick up wine ore beer at Pearson's (saturday tastings) or Whole foods and smuggle the ribs back to the hotel.

It still drives me crazy -- one's 16 and one's 12 and they still have very finicky palates. And attempted guilt trips like "when I was your age we didn't even have sushi in America" and "this black bass was swimming in the Chesapeake 2 days ago. you know what I had when I was a kid? Fish Stix" are as ineffective as the old "I walked nine miles in the snow to school." Good luck, and remeber, almost every culture has noodles and rice, the universal language of small-kid dining.

(Re)discover the joy of simple dishes, order in when things get crazy, and get used to eating later. My wife and I never actually do any of the sensible things other posters have advised. Just terminally disorganized I suppose. Most days we're not sure at noon what we're going to be eating that night; we've tried menu planning but were no better at that than family planning. On the other hand, it only takes a few minutes to microwave fresh vegetables or throw together a salad. Potatoes in the oven or rice in a cooker can take care of themselves while you play with the kid, watch The Dailey Show or pan roast an entree. A well-made burger is a thing of beauty. Pastas with simple sauces are great, and one thing we do manage to freeze sometimes is a tomato sauce. Omlettes: love 'em. Pan roast almost anything and then splash a little wine into the pan for a sauce. Another thing we usually have on hand -- made on weekends, is a bit of stock. Over time, you'll build a repetoire of good quality, simple stuff that suits you taste. An, oh yeah, if your kids are like mine, they're going to like tacos better than Veal Brascola anyway. Tag-teaming is good: wife preps and you finish, or vice-versa. Also, foods that can be ignored for long stretches: braises and soups that simmer while you attend to the rest of your life. We also basically run the evening from the kitchen. We talk about our day, grill the kids on their homework, catch the news and, I don't know, plan vacations and birthday parties amidst the steam and the knives. It's not like we're going out or anything, so why not settle in? Work hard, teach the kids good table manners and in ten years you can start them setting the table and doing the dishes, and maybe even on a little prep work. Good luck!

A buddy of mine is in San Francisco for work; Thursday his 21-year-old duaghter flies out to join him and they are headed to Mendocino County for the long weekend. I had no answers to his request for guidance, but thought the kind folks on the California Board might be able to give him some answers. He likes all good food, from cruddy to elegant, and I think would be delighted to find a locals 'hangout that serves good -- I don't know, whatever it is the locals eat in Mendocino County that we don't eat in DC, plus a spot to get two eggs over easy and a side of hash browns -- and a reservations and tablecloths place. Wineries -- I think he'd be happier with a less-known spot where the tasting room doesn't look like a subway station at rush hour. Some place with good honest reasonably-priced wines (OK, who doesn't want that) and preferably, again, someplace that is unknown or overlooked back east. B&B -- on the scale of elegant to funky, probably more funky. And, in the trade-offs made in keeping the price reasonable, he's probably more likely to be impressed by a nice view, a good cafe within walking distance or friendly proprietors who know their way around the county than by Jacuzzies, Stickley furniture or a proprietor who was once concierge at a Relaise and Chateu property and hand-warms the towells before evey shower. Thank you for your help.

welcome Chefzadi. Julia -- she only needs one name -- revolutionized home cooking in the US, and by doing that helped lift the level of professional cooking, as well (by creating more adventurous and demanding consumers for top restaurants). See also her sometimes co-conspirator and one-name-only compatriot, Jacques (Pepin). Julia taught us that we could cook as well as the French and not to be intimidated with "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" Volumes 1 and 2 and a series of TV show. Her recipes work, and she worked hard to research traditional preparations. Although most famous French dishes have dozens of variations, "Julia's" are considered a great starting point and usually very accurate.