Busboy

Interesting point. I have several Chez Panisse cookbooks, but I rarely cook directly from them because they're full of recipes I already "know." Because, who these days doesn't go to the market, buy what's fresh and combine ingredients simply and deliciously, with lots of garlic and fresh herbs? Because, that's been one of the two dominant movements in home and restaurant cooking since I've had a place with a stove. Because, (coming full circle) (largely, arguably) of Alice Waters. No wonder she's become a political activists -- on a culinary level she's made herself obsolete.

I don't think any of it needs to be disclosed unless it specifically provided because Chris is a "friend" -- in which case it indicates a relationship in which Chris is likely to get special service or be less critical in his writing -- or it was given because he was a writer. Bartenders buy rounds all the time for complete strangers, it's relevant only insofar as it indicates a bar where another affable stranger might get a round.

It should be noted that, while Good Stuff Serves an Obama Burger, Michael Landrum serves burgers to Obama at Ray's Hell Burger. Nice eating this week: Michelle Richard Citronelle and Ray's Hell. I think the Prez needs to start posting.

I am having a little trouble with the difference between cheek and jowl but, based on this chart, it appears that the jowl is the cut that runs from below the cheek, under the chin and back up the other side a bit. Guanciale is jowl that has been cured. I am no cheek expert but, in my experience, cheeks tend to be less fatty and more meaty than jowls, and the fat tends to be mixed a little more finely into the meat. But this is a relative thing; cheeks ain't lean. Once, in Paris, I was served a pork cheek that appeared to have been braised or slow-roasted and then roasted crisp on the outside. There was a spectacular crunch and then the whole thing melted ino my mouth. I'm going to attempt something like this next time I get near either a jowl or a cheek.

There, indeed, is the point. Here in the United States we have very few 'professional' waiters and waitresses. The pay structure simply can not support that as a life's work. This point is further illuminated in that restaurant staff have some of the highest drug use and alcoholism rates of any line of work. I am sure that I am not demeaning any wait-staff, by suggesting that is it rather distasteful to discuss how solicitous the help should be, w/o crossing the line into disinterest on the one hand or obsequiousness on the other, while at the same time not mentioning that the work is grueling and the pay miserable. ← Like every consultant I know, I refer to myself as a prostitute on a regular basis. In fact, as a highly (well, sort of) paid professional I often feel more unclean than I did as a waiter. And don't ask me about my years in politics. Regarding the pay structure -- I'd suggest that, in major cities, at least -- the relative minority of servers who hit the floor the first time with an idea of becoming a restaurant professional have many opportunities to live a middle class life. It's not only the opportunity to move to high-end establishments as a server, but also the chance to move into management, to become a maitre d' or wine professional, or even to turn your experience into an ownership stake or a wine importing business. I know waiters and bartenders who have done all of these things. The idea that you are not demeaning to wait staff is ludicrous. I can only imagine how you treat the whores now that you've become the john.

Chefs and cooks tend to whine incessantly about how hard their job is -- they're damn near worse than farmers -- but, the fact is, you don't see too many of them walking off the line to go to accounting classes (though I do have a friend who quit cooking to be a sommeliere, fwiw). So, just before you walk into the classroom, think for a moment about why you got into the business in the first place. The creativity and the great feeling about working with your hands...artisanship and joy and the the satisfaction of manual labor well done. And, if you can't summon that feeling -- maybe you should sign up for those accounting classes....

Indeed, the Obama Burger remains on the menu.

Oh, c'monnnnnnnnn. Outside of #1, nobody has said any of those things. And, as for myself, I merely said that anyone who thinks their enjoyment of expensive (and often quite tasty) enviro-friendly products makes them virtuous paragons for all to follow is a pompous ass. If you just want to eat the stuff and be reasonably pleased about it, that's lovely. I'll be by at seven with something bubbly (and bio-dynamic). And, in the spirit of confession, I'll cop to being imperfect myself.

I tend to use flagelots (yours) when making cassoulet (and at other times); that's the only occasion I've seen the specifically called for and I have indeed noticed the ungodly prices asked for them, if you can even find them in the U.S. Always ahead of the curve, I found her annoying long ago. (Nice pic). Not organic per se, but in The United States of Arugula, David Kamp traces the larger "movement" back to James Beard, Julia, Clairborn, Olney and a few others whose names I forget -- who preceded Alice -- and also the Dean and DeLuca guys, Moosewood etc who were more or less contemporaneous. To the extent that fast food restaurants and other institutions are offering "healthier" alternatives, I suspect that's a completely different tributary, far more concerned with arid nutrition and just being thin than any of the larger issues Alice embodies. **** To Fat Guy's larger point, I've had this discussion here before. There is a certain strain of food person, invariably affluent, who thinks that they're saving the world by eating artisanal cheese and $5 ramps, and that everybody else should follow their enlightened lead. It hugely self-indulgent and wildly arrogant and it turns people off. I don't think Alice is anywhere near the worst I've stumbled across in this regard but I'm sure that, for some people, she embodies this attitude. It don't really dislike Alice. I agree with much of what she says. I just find her grating. It's like, as a card-carrying liberal, I agree with Al Gore. But he, too, bug the heck out of me.

Sorry. I missed the debate! What is it exactly that she did that has changed things? ← She helped create the market for heirloom beans. Hey, how come you don't sell tarbais, anyway?

I don't know if Spike is still selling them but the Obama Burger referred to in your original thread was being served at Spike's the Good Stuff Eatery on Capitol Hill. Whether it's a Best in Town contender I can't say, but some have suggested that spikebrgers are in the running. Also, one must remember Palena, which I find dry, but is worth eating because if you hate it you can fill up with some of the best cooking in town (bar/cafe only) and Miche Richard's Central which used to be the best before Hellburger was the best before Vidalia was the best.

That's great, but a false argument. Though I'm sure Dole, Sunkist, Indian River, Ocean Mist and all those other small farms are very appreciative. Actually, a lot of those companies buy from individual farmers or co-ops so it's actually not as ludicrous as it sounds. But, in my case, I was speaking about the guys I buy from in the market. I would venture a guess that there are farms who grow specifically for Chez Panisse. I would venture to guess -- indeed I'm pretty sure -- that there are farms that grow specific crops for her. I'd be very surprised there was an individual farm that received the majority of its support from her purchases. How is it a red herring? That's my answer to the question posed. It's a red herring (I understand that Chez Panisse has its red herring helicoptered in within minutes of being caught from a small concern near Half Moon Bay) because you're dismissing all arguments with the one-size-fits-all "oh, they're just jealous" argument, rather than admitting there may be other, understandable reasons for the antipathy she inspires.

Stereotype much? But, because they are a cheap way of feeding your kids. And if you called them "frites" instead of "French fries" and served them along side an onglet instead of a burger, you'd have no problem at all. By that measure, I support ten or 15 farms myself in a good week. Hell, a Safeway shopper probably supports 50. I took support to mean being the major source of income. Another red herring. Face it: a lot of people, whatever they think of her ideas, find her condescending and annoying. She's like one of those people who spend too much time reading their own press clippings.

It's the whole smug attitude that she has all the answers and if we'd all just follow her enlightened path we'd have healthy and educated poor children, an ethical diet, a better planet and tastier beets. Oh please, Earth Goddess - shower your wisdom upon us so that we, too, may be like thou! Plus, there's no way those two restaurants support 85 farms. She did a lot of great things, but, not content with being a visionary restaurateur, she wants to be a prophetess and (Pollin has a bit of this in him, too) seems to be content to tell us what to do without doing any of the hard work to get it done. She's like one of those celebrities who shows up Capitol Hill to testify on the importance x, y, or z, and then goes back to their own celebrityhood "Waters is a visionary. She imagines a “peace garden” on the Gaza Strip that would employ people “from all sides.” She imagines a high school where the kids could run the whole cafeteria themselves, learning math, nutrition, art and food. She imagines starting gardens at Monticello and Mount Vernon that would “become the source of all food in the White House.” She imagines food being covered on the front page and the business page — not the food page, or on TV by “lesser” reporters like “the weatherman.”" So, what's she doing to get any of these things done? And despite the inner-city garden thing -- a fine effort -- she really doesn't seem to live in the real world. “And so my first thing I say, it’s going to cost more and I want to pay for my food. I go to the farmers’ market; it makes me feel like I’m making a donation.” Good for you, Alice. Now tell that to the single mom raising two kids on a Wal-Mart salary. Anyway, I'm getting over being over Alice, too, but she does bug the shit of me sometimes.

You could do some of the actually cocktails of the era, like Harvey Wallbanger, though that's a little more Disco-y. There certainly has to a drink called the "Brown Acid." (Oh, Google it, you young punks). Maybe something about the mud.

Having once been to an Ethiopian birthday party (my daughter's friend), I can confidently report that doro wat would be an excellent choice.

By this definition, drive-through would not be fast food -- a bizarre omission that reveals the problem with taxonomies like this! ← Your drive-through point is one of semantics and nothing more. ← Dave Thomas would disagree. ← How so? ← "It's waaaaaay better than fast food. It's Wendy's." I's arguably possible that we're all thinking a little too much here. But let me throw in a suggestion: if the food is always served ready to carry out -- save for substituting a bag for a tray -- it's probably being served in a fast-food restaurant.

Where's a decdent diner in that town? Must be open by 7AM Sundays and be located withing 1.5 miles -- either direction -- of where the 95 tunnel ENTERS on the south side. This means not Broadway Diner.

The new burger at Vidalia. Best in Town. Or the not quite as new burger at Ray's Hellburger. The other Best in Town.

Some how I think you should have known that you were Chines from previous posts, but at least I'm confident that you won't go for the General Tso's (not that there's anything wrong with that). Don't expect anything near a 20-minute commute at anything near rush hour. You might consider the metro shuttle. Aside from Ethiopian and Salvadoran, we're not a great ethnic food town, sadly. Little Italy (such as it was) was leveled in the 60s, the Asian community is all in the burbs and the Irish neighborhoods? Even in their prime, my people's communities weren't known for their restaurants (though I'm now reminded that the Irish Times on Capitol Hill serves a decent pint and the occasional corned beef sandwich). But Salvadoran can be fun and inexpensive. The pandas, btw, are as far from the Salvadoran side of the zoo as they can possibly be, but it's all downhill. Until the end. PM if you're thinking of crossing Rock Creek and I'll buy you a pupusa. And the basement is finished -- kind of. The TV's there anyhow, so how bad can it be?

I'm thinking that if you're asking for spice ideas to give fennel flavor, it may just not be your cup of anise-flavored tea. Or maybe you just had some lame-ish fennel -- very possible this time of year. At any rate, though, it's a bit of a subtle flavor and you (meaning, of course, I) don't want to step on it too much. I like to poach it in olive oil, gently, with maybe some onion and a bit of garlic thrown in. Or throw it in mixed, fresh vegetables, like your carrots, and splash a little Pernod on top -- the spices in the Pernod tend to work with the anise flavor of the liquor and the anise flavor of the liquor, not surprisingly, works with the fennel. You might think about tarragon. Finally (not finally, actually, if you want more), you can slice it transparently thin and toss it with lemon, olive oil, parsley and parmesan for a crisp and refreshing side dish.

Where are you coming from, and what don't you get to eat there? You're staying in Springfield and coming into the city every day? Why is your husband's company so mean? That commute can be horrid, followed by the cost of parking....You should just let me rent you the basement and you'll be three subway stops away from everything. $20 pp inclusive of tax, tip and alcohol is pretty low for a decent meal, but... One of my personal favorite Museum hits is the Portrait Gallery/Museum of American Art, both free and located right across the street from Proof, which offers one decent-sized course and glass of wine in the bar area for $12.50. It ain't as gourmet as the rest of their menu (the special isn't mentioned on their website), but it's a pretty, pretty civilized spot for a nosh and a sip, even if you're just getting a cheesesteak. Proof is in Chinatown, which is pretty much a theme park rather than an an actual neighborhood. Most of the Chinese restaurants hang on due to tourists who don't know any better, but Full Key has its moments. Best bet: stuff you've never heard of. Oyster hot pots and the like -- don't blow your budget on the Lo Mein. Obscure tourist spot: Mary Surratt's boarding house, where Lincoln's assassination was plotted, at 604 H. Avoid the place where they make noodles in the window at all cost. If you get up to the Hill, Tacqueria National is up by Union Station, on the Senate Side. Haven't been, but hear it's tasty. Over towards Dupont Circle -- don't miss the very cool Textile Museum or the Phillips Collection, two more under-touristed local treasures -- Heritage India Dupont has a very attractive lunch special that should leave you quite satisfied and fall within your budget (I forget the details, but I came away quite stuffed and well pleased). You could also bring a sandwich to the calm environment of the Textile Museum's back yard. And, if you are sick of lunch specials and want cheap dinner, you can get decent Greek and dirt cheap vino at Zorba's, on 20th and Q and, if it's nice weather and you avoid rush hours (12:30-1:30 and 7-8:30), their patio has the best price/quality rate for people-watching in the city. My new favorite Ethiopian place is Zenebach -- which some might find off-putting. If you or your husband is easily weirded out by foreigners hanging out in bad neighborhoods eating weird food, you can always hit Etete, which is the consensus favorite among boring people (and which we like, too). Advantage to Zenebech: just park on the sidewalk out front! (More on Zenebech and Erecilia's (below) here). If you are the type of person who likes seeing cool houses built by rich people who have Faberge Eggs -- or the kind of person who likes zoos -- you should come to my neck of the woods, see Hillwood -- or the Zoo -- and walk up to Erecilia's for some fine Salvadoran food. Fine picnicking at Rock Creek Park or the Zoo, in which case you might want to hit Vace Italian Deli and Cleveland Park liquors (I always carry a cheap bread knife and a decent corkscrew in my touring backpack -- doesn't everyone?) on the rich side of the park/Zoo and wander downhill towards one or both destinations. If you were on Metro (beats the heck out of driving during the day), you'd take Cleveland Park to get to Vace, walk through the park, and take Columbia Heights to get back. Maybe a 40-minute walk if you went straight through without seeing those eggs. Finally, Georgetown makes a great wander once you get off the main drag and see the grand old rowhouses. Then, since it's spring, go to Dumbarton Oaks for the astounding gardens and the really cool pre-Columbian and Egyptian Art. There is almost no good cheap food in Georgetown, so just bring that bread knife to Dean and DeLuca and hit their deli -- I'm sorry, charcuterie -- case and cheese counter. If you are buying wine, do not buy it there. Or, close to Dunbarton Oaks, hit The Griffin Market, for some excellent Italian. You can picnic in the park immediately next to Dumbarton Oaks. See also this; and this. Sadly, mostly out of town, but worth clicking through.

I'm always amazed by how quickly people think wine goes off. re-corked and refrigerated wine will easily keep a week and more likely two if you're using it for cooking. We did the experiment on a wine tasting course I did (two identical bottles, one opened on the night, one the week before - net result: very little difference). I'm sure there's nothing wrong with freezing wine for cooking but you may be able to get away with longer than you think in the fridge. ← I promise you, I have vast experience in judging how long re-corked wine will last. Not saying that the stuff is undrinkable, just saying you can taste the difference.

The Greeks have a thing for favas, as well. Pureed favas are practically Hellenic mashed potatoes, sereved with capres and duced red onions. But when I get my hands on some fresh ones, I'm going to put my whole family to work shelling, peeling (easiest if you blanche them first) blanching (if you haven't already) and tossed with fete cheese, olive oil and lemon. Spoon it over toasty bread, if you have a chance, and the beans are small enough. So, are these greenhouse beans?

My suspicion is that a second dinner, even if comped, would be as unsatisfactory as the first meal. There is no on/off switch for competency. ← This is a possibility. But I've eaten here before and service was never an issue, so this might have been a one off. And, the company will be good and the price is right.