Busboy

Don't know if Chris has made it to DC yet but the Hot New Bar of the Moment, Passenger, is open as of 5PM today and spitting distance from the Convention Center. Unclear from the blog post linked whether Derek's cocktail dreams will be fully realized right from the start, but it's almost certainly worth taking a chance. If he's in the house, fine libations are to be had. Brother Tom -- as noted above -- is no slouch, either (he has a gift for gin) but claims to be more of a beer-and-a-shot guy, at least for purposes of this operation.

When my daughter, on being told she could celebrate her birthday at any restaurant in town, asked to have me cook steak-frites for her. And once, when I was waiting tables at a restaurant in Boston's North End, an antipasto I prepared while the cooks were running behind convinced a table that I "had to have some Italian blood in me, somewhere" because no Irish could cook that well.

If you have your beurre blanc down, you should consider using the same technique with either Scotch or Bourbon; the result works very well with pork. Note that it takes more Scotch than you might think to get a really flavorful sauce, at least a half cup or so before you cook it down, per stick of butter. It's not really a sauce but sometimes I slice red cabbage, red onions and a tart apple into a slaw-type mash, and slow cook it with whatever stock is lying around the fridge, a dab of sugar and the better quality of cheap, grocery store balsamic vinegar. Makes a very nice bed for a big chunk of pork. And, it you're feeling really decadent, you can put the Scotch sauce on top.

I like to "confit" fennel, cooking it slow in olive oil with maybe a little garlic and/or onion thrown in for flavor. Another thing to do is poach it in chicken stock and then top it with a little goat cheese and brown it under the broiler.

I have had extremely good experiences at Proof and Vidalia recently and for anyone who's going to be in DC of a Friday night would heartily recommend Vidalia's "Pig and Pinot" special. Chef RJ Cooper (full disclosure: he's something of a good buddy) has a thing for pork and Friday happy hours are a lesson in nose-to-tail cooking. The other night, jowl with penut sauce was out of this world -- Georgia meets Java -- and the ham he spent 18 months curing was spectacular. Also, one of the best-kept secrets in town is the $50 bar menu at CityZen. Not quite the smae experience as the regular menu but a wonderful way to sample Ziebold's food. And, while it's possible (it's ridiculous that it seems never to happen), I haven't known the bar to ever fill up.

I am in the minority on this, but I have never come away from a meal at Central not feeling disappointed. Not that it's bad, but I don't think it's ever lived up to its hype. On the other hand, I do love CityZen, which does a brilliant job of walking the line between bloodless, intellectual modernism and high-end soul food. This is clearly a "what are you in the mood for" thing, though. Central never claims to be more than an extremely sophisticated bistro -- you can get a (much beloved) hamburger there for chrissake. CityZen aims to be one of the best restaurants in the country and, IMHO, succeeds. You might also want to investigate Komi, if you're in the mood for many courses of understated food. I am of two mind of the place -- sometimes I want to say "big deal, it's a fucking olive with cheese in it." And sometimes I think that anyone who did more than thinly slice the brilliantly selected fish, for crudo, would be an idiot. Over 12 or 15 courses, you'll have plenty of time to ponder. Has a great feel to it, too, stuck in a rowhouse on a neighborhood commercial strip and and nice in a way that a friend with excellent taste but little money might do their ground floor. You might also want to investigate Palena. The other day we had a meal in the cafe, where you can get yet another expensive burger or the legendary roast chicken, or order off the restaurant menu and the food was blindingly good. I asked myself, "why has it been so long since I ate here?" and then I remembered "oh yeah, because the waiter was an asshole," and the place has been known for having service issues. But, not having eaten in the main dining room for a while I'd cross my fingers and hope that service has improved. And why Ruta doesn't get four stars from the Washington Post I don't know, because his food is astonishing.

Rather than start up another thread, let me append this one with a specific request for a mid-to-upscale restaurant that offers one or two dishes a moderately adventurous diner might eat, but without being boring. Price a little down from "really expensive" but it doesn't have to be a budget experience. A little dress-up but no neckties. Not too freaking bustle-y. In the past, the Grammercy Tavern's front room might have served admirably (and it still might, I haven't heard anything in a while), Maybe even Babbo, but Lupa might be a little downscale. Is Landmarc still good? In short, someplace where we can get a little swank without pushing the envelope for an unknown teenage guest.

Cantler's is popularly regarded as "the" crab shack in the area. Be aware, though, that crab season has passed and price and quality may be affected. Also note that Maryland is not a clam chowder hotbed. Can't comment on the Annapolis places, but I'd spend my money someplace besides Blue Duck. My experience and that of friends has been that it's inconsistent at best and quite pricey. If the you want to eat somewhere in that part of town, I'd recommend Marcel's instead. Also, never heard of (and can't find on google) Flume.

No sooner had I posted the above when word breaks that the Brown Brothers are collaborating of a new cocktail place, named after an Iggy Pop song, Passages. Mid-November opening. The Gibson, which is a larger effort than just Derek will undoubtedly continue, but the future of fine cocktailing at Proof is in doubt. It appears that Gina at PS 7 has moved on, as well, though their focus on unique adult beverages will continue. Her new home, the H Street Country Club is far from the Convention Center in the midst of the new hipster (I mean that in a good way)nightlife district, which is worth a night out in itself. Granville Moore's is where you'd go for food, Rock and Roll Hotel or Palace of Wonders for fun.

Speaking as a tourist, I love the Grand Central Oyster bar, especially the counters, as totally New York-y bit of new your. Pan Roast or just raw. My experience at Jean George was marred a bit by frankly amateurish service, but for the price I'd go back in a second. I like Cafe Un Deaux Trois on 44th street about 40 feet from the Lion King, but probably more for the beautiful room than the merely average steak frites.

I don't mean to be cranky, but my one experience with Berthillon was disappointing. Tried the families flavors and the general consensus was that we make better at home. Maybe it was an off week.

The Gibson (the lady in the picture makes a mean "Harvard on the Pike") is one of those neo-speakeasies run by cocktail fanatics. I enjoy it quite a bit. It limits its guests but offers reservations. I find if you head for it early or late you can usually get a seat just by dropping by (though weekends are tough). I'm pretty sure we also got seated one night because we were non-assholes (hard to believe, I know)to the harried doorman, who didn't think anything was open "but let me check." The moving force behind the Bar Pilar cocktail Renaissance has moved on to Proof, where he is now bar manager. I don't know if his passion remains at Pilar or has infused the bartenders Proof, but suspect he was hired to infuse them and that it is worth the gamble. Drop the name "Adam." Proof, which is closer to the Convention Center than Pilar, also boasts storied Winemaster Sebastian Zutant who is more than just another pretty haircut and has 30 wines by the glass and excellent food and and, now that I think of it, should have been mentioned on the "where to eat near the convention center" thread Gina at PS 7 (who hangs at The Gibson) makes a daring cocktail, and is known for her non-alcoholic bar menu as well, should you be accompanied by Baptists. Tom at Cork, on 14th Street works at a wine bar but has the heart and family of a Mixologist (his brother runs The Gibson and Sister in Law --who may have been on her honeymoon when Weinoo had his mediocre experience there -- is at the Tabard). Pretty good food, too. Won the Beard "Best New Restaurant" for DC. Tom's there every night but Thursday. Finally, if you get into town on Sunday, it may be worth cabbing or metroing (Columbia Heights) up to Room 11 and The Punch Club. This will also, btw, get you out of the Tourist Zone and into where locals like to go. Hit it on the way back from the only Salvadoran/woodburning pizza restaurant on Earth, Moroni Brothers (accessible by Green Line from the Convention Center, Petworth).

If you don't mind a ten-block walk up ninth street, you'll find yourself in Little Ethiopia, with Etete being the go-to joint. Corduroy (just got three stars from the Post) is right around the corner on 9th if you want to splurge, and Brasserie Beck is maybe three blocks away on K and 12th, if you've a hankering for Belgian beer or French/Belgian food (avoid the "choucroute," however).

Brandade is one of my favorite things in the world. What about just limiting brandade requests to the better sort of restaurants? When I was in that neighborhood, I ate it a lot and never got a bad batch. On the other hand, I usually ordered it at "Bib Gourmande" places and not no-name cafes. Speaking of which, hazardNC may want to head over to www.viamichelin.com and fool around on that site. Not that Michelin is the be-all and end-all, (I'd go to Abra's blog) but they make it easy to search for what they consider the "better sort of restaurant," and you may then be able to cross-check with menus the restaurants themselves post on line (Au Plaisirs des Halles in NImes, for example, get a happy face and recognition for their wine list, and has brandade on their 27 euro menu. I must go there now). MMMMMMMMM salt cod... Also, if you are in the mood for cured cod and are going to be in Nice, you might consider the stockfish soup at La Merenda, a restaurant which people tend to like very much or dislike very much. The soup is a wickedly stron combination of cured cod, garlic and tomato is not for the faint-hearted.

It was sufficiently social event that I left the camera at home and paid less attention to the food, but it was all very enjoyable. My daughter ended up getting goat cheese with crispy leeks which I enjoyed as well, and a confit of chicken, which she did not finish and I didn't get a bite of. Son had the alarmingly tasty corn raviolis with tomato and whatever --- one of those dishes that seems ridiculously simple but tastes ridiculously good -- and a filet, which he liked fine (I liked the roasted tomatoes that came with it). I personally scarfed down an excellent foie gras brulee and some disappointing crispy sweetbreads (bland, though well prepared) in addition to the aforementioned corn raviolis. All in all, it was a wonderful value, though we're already plotting a dinner for two at Per Se for November, just for comparison's sake.

Well, we ended up at Jean Georges and had a wonderful dinner for seven for substantially less than I would have expected to spend at any upscale restaurant. It helps when a majority of the guests don't drink, but coming away from a three-hour lunch with a tab of just over $700 was pretty sweet -- I've been known to spend almost that much just on dinner with my wife. Only problem was service that can only be described as clumsy -- servers milling about for many minutes waiting for the last member of the team to show up so they can drop all the plates at the same time; dirty plates not cleared, main courses for those who ordered two served at the same time as the second courses for those of us who got three, and a request that they pretend to have a table for two in my friend's name -- it was a surprise -- forgotten within minutes of them agreeing to it. Very amateurish. A good time was had by all, nonetheless.

The are actually both better than the wife of the guest of honor (but she has an obligation to look happy no matter what, on account of her husband's 50th birthday), and are picky in such a way that they are fine with upscale a la carte menus and expanding their horizons is part of an ongoing effort. The boy in particular -- aside from his fish-phobia -- has actually become pretty adventurous.

Any thoughts on braising cheeks, stuffing them into pasta and maybe serving them in a broth? Will also peruse Pork and Sons and Babbo once I get back home. Thanks.

If I'm at a high end restaurant, I won't even look at the menu before a cocktail is served. A lot of good places won't even bring a menu until after the first drink is on the table. And, as I recall, the French Laundry starts pouring Champagne the moment you sit down and through the amuses, which is quite an agreeable way of ensuring that your wine arrives before your first "real" course. Sadly, most places can't afford to be quite that gracious. I often ask the waiter to hold the order until the wine is on the table -- kitchens have their own rhythm and if everything is not coordinated just so (or if the somm has to go to the cellar, or the waiter gets grabbed by another table) the wine shows late, which is one of my truly irrationally grand pet peeves in restaurants. At one restaurant in Miami I looked askance as my lobster was served and snipped, or maybe snapped, that I had made it clear that I expected the lobster to arrive after the wine. Within seconds, however, waiters, busboys, managers and (apparently) even the kitchen were working hard to make things right and dinner was marvelous and the tip large. Another way to go, especially in a busy, high-turnover place, is to get the orders from your guests but when the waiter arrives say "we need just another minute, but I think we've selected a wine." He or she grabs the wine, you order the food and there is no wasted motion or chance for error. If it's something that annoys you, be polite, but firm.

After our last trip to France -- where, to be clear, we a couple of nasty little meals, in addition to the good ones -- my wife and I decided that one great thing about French food is that "the level of mediocrity is higher" in France than in the U.S. Not everything is great, but the odds that decent meal or even memorable meal for a reasonable price is certainly much greater.

A new variable is in the mix: a seventh (or fifth) guest has come onto the scene, making an ability to expand into what I assume (at this late date) is a relatively rare six- or eight-top a primary consideration. The kids are too old to be picky eaters but, alas are. It was dragging my son through nine courses, six of which were fish, which he detests but manfully forced down, that has made me wary of foisting my preferences on him. On the other hand, at 20 and 16 the kids join us for dinner far more rarely than I like, and I'll certainly find a way to work in a nice New York dinner with them over the course of the weekend. I will report back.

I have reservations for J-G for 6 and Per Se for 4. I will cancel one or the other well before the date, so don't worry about that. The question is this: should I blow off my two kids (picky eaters) and pay the $175/each for four? Or should I take all six (my friend's birthday is the occasion) to J-G at a relatively modest $60 per? Is Per Se that much better, that I'll regret not eating there? Not a bad dilemma and yes, I will fix the reservations post-haste.

After you drive that shucker into the meat of your palm a couple of times your technique improves dramatically and you can just use a kitchen towel. All these mits look as though they're made to protect your hand from the oyster itself, whereas in my experience it's the knife that's the real danger, unless you're opening a couple hundred at a a time.

Having eaten in Philly's Chinatown for lunch (was taking son and friends out) I actually got a taste of that style, as well. Though, in an unremarkable Chinese joint, it's hardly surprising when the two selections from the "appetizer" list are the last dishes to be set on the table. Given that Osteria is positioned (it seems) as Vetri's "informal" place, it seemed a little rigid. It's not as though there was a tasting menu to be timed. A pretty decent meal, btw, lest anyone should think I'm bashing the place.

Was at at trendy Italian place on Broad Street and the cheese plate was $18. Per person! Now, what arrived was an $18 cheese plate. But it could, and did, do service for four. Felt a bit piled on, there.