Busboy

I gotta go with Mick Jagger on this one: "fuck 'em if they can't take a joke."

I'm with you. We have a couple of irregular destinations in the Seven Corners area -- REI, the lazer tag place -- and we almost always go over to Eden Center for a meal. Having tried them both, our regular hangout is now the restaurant known only (to us, anyway) as "the place next door to Four Sisters." Kids love the fondue, I like the seafood, and we're all addicted to the killer lime sodas.

Why not supplement you classroom learning with an educational field trip? Paris has (I have read) a good number of excellent wine bars. You might consider buying a decent wine guide and hauling it to a good bar, ordering something and then looking up the wine as you drink. I, personally, found this an excellent and way to learn about wine, and I expect it would be a great supplement to a more structured course -- and possibly more fun. I don't know how your French or your potential bartenders' English is, but there are few people involved in the wine trade that don't love talking about it, you'd surely learn from them, and other customers, as well. This link lists a few wine bars, also a place that offers courses, and the address of the Musee du Vins. There is some award (waiting for one of the resident Parisians to chime in -- Loufood?) given annually. Getting hold of that list is probably worth the effort.

I'm being drawn across the River this evening on an errand into Northern VA. Being as how I'm physically, intellectually and emotionaly whipped after a night in which Mark Slater and various other Citronellians pummelled my wife and myself into submission with wave after wave of extraordinary food and wine -- despite our pleas for mercy -- I thought healing bowl of pho might be in order tonight. Any suggestions as to great Vietnames in the greater Alexandria/Arlington region? (Nothing against Four Sisters, we just don't want to drive that far at rush hour).

I can't offer a ton of information, but this thread, which I both consulted and made a modest contribution to, has a ton of great stuff about Southern France between Nice and the Italian border. I will say that when I first traveled to the Cote D'Azure I was expecting something like Gallic Jersey Shore, and I understand that that impression is not far wrong if you head west from Nice, towards Cannes. The area east of Nice is damn near perfect, though, especially off-season. "Second honeymoon" might be a little much to describe it -- though the nature of your trip suggests the phrase -- but the four days I just spent there with my wife were extraordinary. Practical advice: Nice has an airport you may want to check into on the off chance that you can fly in or out of there, with Milan being the other end. The TGV also goes through Nice, it may be a simple way to get back to Paris or Milan (or wherever) at the end of the trip. The whole Cote d'Azure is served by a train that runs regularly and is dirt cheap. If you don't want to drive, you can get from Monaco to Nice for something like five bucks, in about 25 minutes, and have an opportunity to stop at three or four gorgeous towns in between. If you have a car you can leave the coast and be in the Provencal back country practically within minutes. When I stayed in Beaulieu sur Mer, a small town half-way between Nice and Monaco, I thought I had discovered the perfect hideaway. Since then, three people -- and an eGullt poster -- have, unsolicited, mentioned it as the perfect undiscovered waterfront town. Lodingings there probably run from $50 to well into the four figures a night. Have a great trip. Edited to fix link and generally clean the thing up.

But how many other people can order trocken-beeren-auslese or kartofflepuffen mit schlagsam properly? Play to your strengths...

I expect that you're next CT-level dining experience, if you go back, will be better if only because you've now experienced that level of formaility and sophistication. As others have pointed out, Babbo and Balthazaar are pretty wide-open, and my experience in Atlanta is that even fine restaurants are relatively less formal than in other parts of the country. The funny thing is that while most waiters will, out of habit, make immediate snap judgements about every aspect of you attire and behavior, all but the most egregious negatives are immediately trumped by friendliness, a general comfort with your surrounings, and basic knowledge of what to (or what to ask advice on). So next time, you won't be wondering if the maitre d' is giving you the hairy eyeball, you won't care as much. You'll know the routine, so instead of thinking "is this what I should do" you'll be able to move into "is this what I want to do." You'll relax, your waiter will loosen up (somewhat) and you'll be able to focus on the food and/or wine.

I was practising my French by reading (poorly) Le Figaro and I came upon this review. Although the restaurant had not yet officially opened, the reviewer gave it a big wet, French kiss, praising not only Savoy -- an alchemist, just like the origional Maître Albert -- but the bartender, sommelier, sous-chef and patissier, by name. Evidently, the sleek, renovated interior will satisfy the "city rat" while the while the rich, simple food will please the "country rat." "Chaleur [warmth], bonhomie, générosité : voilà les secrets de l'alchimiste de la rue Maître Albert." Sounds like fun, to me. L'Atelier Maître Albert, 1, rue Maître-Albert, 75005 Paris. Tél. : 01.56.81.30.01. Ouvert tous les soirs. Lundi, mardi, mercredi, de 18 h 30 à 23 h 30. Jeudi, vendredi, samedi, de 18 h 30 à 1 h. Fermé le dimanche. Privatisable à midi. Carte : 30-60 €. Voiturier.

Um... isn't the first T pronounced? I've always heard: [mõ-tRa-Se], and [mõ-Ra-Se] just doesn't seem right to me. (NB. I'm using a big "S" in place of the usual IPA symbol for "sh" which doesn't seem to work in Explorer; the big "R" means it is uvular). Montrachet is just the beginning. Don't forget the "Puligney" prefix. And for the red, an Eschezeaux? Or Chambolle-Musigney? No wonder people just throw up their hands and ask for the poossy foossy.

Having been both a waiter at what was probably one of the best restaurants in the country at the time, and certainly one of the most expensive (DC's Le Pavillon), and been a younger diner at some very swank spots, I'd suggest that a lot of the angst adrober experienced is just the result of bad chemistry, springing from inexperience on his part and a common, if not praiseworthy, distrust of younger diners on behalf of the waiter. Young couple comes in, and is immediately intimidated. They're unfamiliar with the customs, food and atmosphere of the place, worried about money, and already feeling pressured to buy a wine. Waiters smell "rookie" like dogs smell fear. They're thinking nickle-and-dime spenders, irritating questions, and low tip. In an ideal world, none of this would matter, and I'm certain that most waiters do their best to get over this first impression. Nonetheless, they can't, unless some kind of bond is established that overcomes both the young couple's fear facters and the waiter's first impression. Unfortunately, this is hard to accomplish when both parties feel awkward with one another. It's like dancing, when neither partner knows how to lead. Unless your favorite song comes on an breaks the initial awkwardness, you just kind of cling to one another until, thank goodness, the dance is finally over. I remember lunch once at the old Bouley, where my wife and I broke the ice by refusing to give up the wine list after selecting a wonderful Chablis because "we haven't picked the red wine yet." Surrounded by models and brokers lunching on salad and mineral water, we suddenly became the big spenders of the day -- that waiter became or best friend fast -- extra desserts, extra wine, the full monty. More practically, though, GordonCook's strategy for overcoming angst in an upscale place -- admitting your inexperience and asking for their guidance - almost always works. Waiters in a fine restaurant are constantly ordered about and condescended to by people who know much, much less about food and wine than they do. Like everyone else, they enjoy getting respect for their knowledge and giving advice based on it. And, like almost everyone else, they will go out of their way to be kind to strangers.

Thanks, Sam. I'll let you know how it works...if we actually go through with it.

Though undoubtedly less reliable than loufood, Patricia Wells' "Food Lovers Guide to Paris" is pretty useful. It's cross-referenced by type of establishment and by arrondissement, so if you find yourself, say, in the mood for bread and cheese as you wander through the 4th, you can whip out the book, locate a baker and a fromagerie nearby, and pop over for a snack. Living almost entirely on cheese and bread, by the way, is a pretty good way to stretch the budget as you wander around France. Hell, it's a pretty good way to live even if your budget is unlimited. Also, I seem to recall some decent traiteurs -- French delis, if you will, selling prepared foods to go -- for lower-budget in-room dining. loufood may have an opinion or a recommendation.

Hotel Valadon 16 rue Valadon, 75007 Paris France Voice phone (+331) 4753 8985 Fax (331) 4418 9056 info@hotelvaladon.com It's in the 7th, but a great location near Invalides, the Tour Eiffel, Marche Rue Cler and one pf the city's great cheese shops. Kind of self-service (no food in the rooms, no desk help after 8PM) but a great location and recently renovated with Internet access in the lobby. I wouldn't consider it a "business hotel" but would stay there again as a tourist. (Almost in the 8th, I believe) we had a fine, inexpensive and jeans-friendly meal at Le P'tit Troquet. Not Arpege, but swell. It's a Micheline "Happy Face" (I forget what they call it) selection, and very classically Parisian in feel. Very friendly. 28, rue de l'Exposition 01 47 05 80 39.

Thomas Keller, but rarely for an entire recipe or -- God forbid -- an entire meal. The Complete Works of Jacques Pepin. OK, making that up, but "The Complete Technique" unquestionably a classic. "The Art of Cooking 1&2" Out of print, but worth getting. A lot of overlap with Complete Technique, which was itself out of print, when Art of Cooking Came out. I had never heard of Jacques when I stumbled across this series, it was my Bible for two years "Julia and Jacques Cook at Home" A good step up from "Art of French Cooking" . Basic French, also great because Jacques and Julia have little arguments with one another, so you get to learn different techniques for the same dish, and that there are different techniques. "Jacques Pepin's" Good classic French Also, Larousse Gastronomic, more for reference and learning than actual cooking ("what the hell's a quenelle?"

Check out this award-winning () thread! OK, I read that. Obviously, I found your train wreck of a prep strategy more compelling than the actual dish itself. Not a bad recipe, but your narrative points out one of the major advantages of Sam's recipe...most of his gets done in advance, while my life is still sane, rather than assembled day of, as all hell breaks loose.

I confess, I've been warped by my East Coast lifestyle -- and bitter experience with the markets here in D.C., where good stuff can disappear quickly -- and have had a hard time adjusting to French rhythms, especially in the South. But I'm getting better. I'm sure a few more weeks in Provence, with a cherry tree or two near by, would convince me that France won't run out of food, even if I do sleep in.

Lemme know if you want the details. I can PM or post to recipeGullet. Let me see if I can sell it to the masses. They bought it -- but I'm not buying truffles for 25. Maybe a little truffle oil for the favored few, if there's any change left over after the FedEx in the foie gras. I can't wait to plate it with the stuffing and the little translucent disc of canned cranberry sauce that has also been requested. Is that the kind of thing they do at Mist? Anyway, details, on the board or by PM are much appreciated.

They're probably disturbed that your friends eat before they go to the market. Wht waste time when someone else is getting the best st. Remy cherries or last Cavaillon melons of the season! Also, anything more than a glass of rose and a croissant dulls the senses. Thanks for the report, Margaret. Though it will be some months, yet, I hope to find myself in Lyon in March and will be glad to have your guidance as I search for the "gastronomic capital of France's" tastiest innards.

This doesn't make sense, unless you've made it clear from the get-go that everyone is supposed to share food. It's nice that you like to share but I happen to like spicy food, as well. If I am dining out with a group, they can order whatever they want and share whatever they want, but I'm still ordering the spicy food because I like it that way. If you can't eat it and are disappointed that you can't share it, don't take it out on me. I will happily share my spicy food with anyone at the table who likes spicy food, but do you really want me to order the oatmeal just because you can't eat my spicy machaca? Think again. I think the point was that is was rude and bizarre to order spicy food specifically in order to avoid having to share (with your girfriend, at that), not that everyone has to order food that everyone else approves of.

Lemme know if you want the details. I can PM or post to recipeGullet. Let me see if I can sell it to the masses.

Suzanne, you kept this wonderful Thompson's variation from me! How could you? Now I have to make it again come Thanksgiving. And Sam, your turkey is out of control-- I don't know if I dare post whatever it is I'll be making after that! FIL is retired from the liquor trade, and he loved his job. Drinking at every step, whether or not basting is involved, is pretty much a given. In fact, drinking is pretty much a given, whether he's there or not - hence the problem with the neighbors. (Reading Sam's menu as I consider showing up in my kitchen at 9AM Thanksgiving Day reminds me of my wife's comment about prosecco: "it makes a pretty good breakfast wine.") What is a Thompson's turkey, anyway? Maybe I'll try Sam's version as a compromise between the traditionalists and the avant-guarde. It appears that it would also free up some overn space and time, which is another key consideration.

Last year, Thanksgiving dinner ultimately developed into such an un-puritan orgy of drunken dancing that I got a letter from my neighbor two days later complaining vehemently about the noise and threatening vague "further action" if it ever happened again. This year we face an even deeper challenge in the Busboy household, as the prospect of entertaining 20 or 30 people without drawing the police or spawning a divorce. My father- and brother-in-law are coming, for the first time, and they are demanding something that my wife and I, in 20 years, have never cooked. Something horrid and boring, a dish whose presence brings my household no joy, and yet never seems to go away. They want turkey.

Marshmallows are one of the great flaming food of all time. The key is to roast them over an open fire, preferably after doing the dishes and preparing the campsite for bed, slowly slowly slowly so the inside melts into something resembling a 90's era dessert foam. Then, at the last minute, stick the 'mallow into the campfire until it lites up. Menace your friends (alternately, your children) until mom tells you to quit it, and then eat up. It's like a backcountry creme brulee, with the carbony crunch outside and warm foam in. This, along with ghost stories, is why the gas camp stove will never fully replace the campfire.

Make sure that you're going to get Indian food at the reception before you get your taste buds set for good curry and rich daal. At my cousin's wedding, we found out just before the ceremony that the reception site wouldn't allow the bride's family to provide their own caterer. No elephant for the groom, either.

I'm travelling and just stumbled up from the bar at the Pentelikon hotel in Athens, where I read the paper and chatted intermittently with the bartender, so I claim high credibility on this topic and, at the same time, admit that I may be less than articulate on it. Steve's Klc's points are valid, but having spent many nights in rachiesarah's shoes, I'd like to respond to a couple of his points. First, I've never been a woman, so the "getting hit on" point is at the same time a real concern and one I can't comment on. Second, the Friday night crowd problem can be a problem. I think this leads one to lean towards the more "formal", places -- Marcel's, Palena, Yanyu, Nectar Sam and Harry's -- places where the bars tend to attract single diners, locals and people waiting for a table. They're not "scenes" so even if there's not a seat immediately available, one will appear soon. And, if a gentleman expresses interest, it's more likely to be subtle and avoidable without hassle, as opposed to a persistent drunk frat boy. I confess that I have not been to the places Steve works, all of which are on my "to do" list. But, my impression is that they are all very hip, in addition to offering excellent food, so they get a different crowd than, say, the pre-concert Kennedy Center-goers at Nectar. Third, "casual" is pretty broad. I've been to almost all of the places mentioned in jeans, but with leather shoes and a decent shirt. I'm not sure what the women's equivalent is, but throw a blue blazer over a button-down and jeans and you can pretty much do the bar anywhere. All the Cleveland Park places consider themselves "neighborhood" joints at some level, and they're pretty tolerant of informal dress. I felt guilty when I wore jeans to Marcel's, but we asked the maitre d' and he had no problem. I would not have eaten in the dining room, though. Fourth, light. Bar candles are your best friend although eyes younger than mine might not even need those. Once your eyes adjust, it's not as dark as you might think. Finally, Teasim (and such). A fine place. But part of the fun of reading at the bar on a solo dining experience is settling into the long haul. Flipping pages and having a couple of courses brought to you over an hour-and-a-half while you sip wine and read the world. Maybe the bartender has a half-bottle of wine left over from a previous customer he wants you to taste. Maybe you'll strike up a conversation with a stranger. I had a great dinner once with a table of folks who were intrigued by the way I kept guffawing at David Sedaris (Bistro Francais, walkable from Foggy Bottom -- no bars, but single diners tolerated) Maybe you'll just get a long read in with no phone calls or pages. Cosi just doesn't cut it on these terms. Anyway, I hope rachiesarah has a great night, and I hope to eat at one of steve's places soon.