Suvir Saran

Thank you Brad S! Quince and rose petal water sound great.

I think so too. In Goa they had used the leaves of a kaagazi nimbu (paper thin lime) and they did give a great citrus taste. It made all the difference.

What is different about the Djerban style? Would you care to share, please. Does the word have a special meaning?

Kaffir lime leaves are what I am told they use in Singapore. Not the juice.

Lahsuni Murgh (murgh meaning chicken) or Lahsuni Chicken (lahsun/lassan meaning garlic)

A food writer friend in Singapore wrote back to me and said Laksa Lemak is a Singaporean dish and was created there. Laksa leaves is the Singapore name for Vietnamese Mint leaves. They told me that one could but Laksa Paste commercially and that chile and shrimp were the crucial ingredients of a good Laksa blend. They also said many chefs add Kafir lime into the soup. Coconut milk and not cream give the soup its creamy texture.

I picked up my favorite Brussel Sprout recipe (after the one I ate at Lupa) from a friend that lives in Philadelphia. We were on Shelter Island and he prepared these from a recipe he had from Martha Stewart. It is easy and delicious and all made in one dish in the oven. Clean and prepare brussel sprouts to be cooked whole. I take off the top leaves and make an x on the stem side. Glaze a oven proof casserole with little olive oil. To this add the brussel sprouts, sliced red onions (I added red cippolinis from the farmers market last time), and finely sliced granny smith apples. Toss them with some olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Throw in coarsely chopped pistachios and bake in the oven for 35-45 minutes at 350?F. Toss a couple of times to ensure even browning. Salt the brussel sprouts at the same time as you add the oil and vinegar. I also add a little cayenne and sometimes black currants as well.

While in the west we often find couscous being served as a side dish, in North Africa and Morocco, it is served by itself and with great aplomb. Couscous in these other countries is served with its own accompanying dishes. What are your favorite ways of preparing couscous? What kind of couscous do you use? Do you use a couscoussiere? Any favorite recipes you care to share.

And what do these two men eat today? What has been passed onto their next generation? A great post. Thanks for sharing. When are you sharing your own experiences from growing up?

Thanks for the link.

Anna, I see you are browsing.... This may be one of those recipe The Dane may actually grow to love and crave for. Try it, and feel free to ask me as many questions as you feel necessary.

SPINACH, ONION AND POTATO PAKORAS Palak Pakoras Makes about 30 Most Americans are familiar with pakoras from eating at Indian restaurants. Traditionally they are made with one vegetable at a time, and each vegetable is fried in a specific shape. But I got this recipe from my mother who invented it to feed an army of starving teenagers (we’d bring our friends home with us) every afternoon after cricket. Hers were made with several – not one single – vegetables: spinach, onion and potato. And she used less batter than is usual so that they were oddly shaped, quick to make, lighter and, I think, more interesting than the traditional. I typically make them as hors d’oeuvres for parties. But, when I’m feeling greedy for them, I’ve been know to make them for dinner, accompanied by a hard boiled egg for protein, so that I can eat as many as I like without fear of ruining my appetite for the main course. These are unquestionably best straight out of the oil but in a pinch, you can reheat leftovers on a baking sheet at 180? or in a toaster oven. Save the broken bits that fall off of the pakora in a baggy in the refrigerator to eat crumbled on top of yogurt. SPICE POWDER 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon garam masala (page 000) 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds 1/2 teaspoon carom seeds (ajawain), optional 6 firmly packed cups chopped, stemmed spinach 1 raw, red boiling potato, peeled and very finely diced 1 red onion, cut into medium (about 3/4 inch) dice 1 fresh, hot green chili, very finely chopped 1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro 2 cups chickpea flour (besan) 1 tablespoon dried fenugreek leaves (kasoori methi), optional 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1 3/4 cups water Canola oil, for deep frying 1. For the spice powder, combine all of the spices in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder and grind very coarsely (there will still be large pieces of seed). 2. Combine the spice powder with all of the other ingredients except the water and oil in a large bowl and stir to coat everything with the flour. Add the water and stir to make a batter. 3. Pour about 3 inches oil into a large saucepan or medium kadai and heat to 350?F over high heat. Use a quarter cup measure or large serving spoon to measure out about 3 tablespoons of the pakora mixture and slide it into the hot oil. Immediately turn the heat down to medium. Spoon several more pakoras into the oil (4 or 5 total) and cook 1 minute. Turn the pakoras over with a slotted spoon and cook 1 more minute. Then turn the heat up to high and continue cooking, turning twice, until evenly browned all over, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove to a paper towel lined platter with a slotted spoon and drain. Repeat to cook all of the pakoras. Serve with Mint, Cilantro or Tamarind Chutney.

Wow! I wish you had asked this just an hour ago. I just finished making tons of french fries and making a dinner out of them. Just french fries... It is one of my favorite meals. I also love pakoras. Spinach, onions, potatoes, cauliflower, green chiles, paneer, tofu, eggplant and sweet potato are some of my favored veggies. I often will add some rice flour into the chickpea batter. And at other times I use spinach as a way of making the pakoras crunch and add other finely chopped veggies into it. Would you make them at home? Are you up for some deep frying? If so, I can email you a recipe, and you can make some, and post about your experience with the recipe here. And maybe you will even share some pictures. What do you say?

Lizziee, thanks for starting this thread. Those eggs remain fresh in my memory ever since I first ate them at Arpege. I was wondering if you have a digital camera and if it would be possible for you to take a picture of this implement. If at all that can be arranged, I am sure it will be yet another generous treat from you to us eGulleteers. And if not, I thank you for all this information you have so very kindly shared. Matt, how did you all cut the eggs? Did the kitchen use a similar tool like the one described by Lizziee? What was your opinion of it if the answer is a yes. Thanks for your input on this thread. What was the most lasting impression on you from working at Arpege? Would you be comfortable sharing that?

Does only the top blade need to be used? Can I use the chariot? I tried doing what you said... but was certainly not doing it the correct way. I made 5 batches of French Fries, amazing.. and thanks to you and the mandoline, I made little effort. Thanks Matt! PS: I sprinkle chaat masala (Indian spice mix that has many sour spices and also red chile in it), cayenne and salt on the fries. They are spicy and superb that way.

Matt, Thanks for showing me how to use my mandolines. I am just getting ready to make french fries. It made the cutting of the potatoes so quick and easy. What I did realize though, and need your help with, is on how I need to set the mandoline to make those wonderful waffled potato chips you made the other evening. I have tried many settings.. and just seem to not remember what you did. Can I get some help? Is it easy to learn through the web? Would I need another lesson? Happy New Year to you and yours. And thanks for your generosity.

I treat cooking as a living essential and certainly an art. I trained at Sir J.J. School of Art (birthplace of Rudyard Kipling in Bombay, his father was the Dean of the institution) and then came to NYC to study the arts at School Of Visual Arts in Manhattan. What I created as an artist and what I learned at school and through my artistic persuasion, has also similarly created and taught and inspired me with my cooking. There is hardly any difference in my world between what I do with food in comparison to what I do with paint, ink and pencil. They are all different ways of me expressing myself any given moment in time. There are artists and then some. Not many labeled as artists consider their creations art. Some do not even consider their art as a form of craft. They either lack that sensibility or perhaps do not know how to give words to their thought. And certainly some do not even think food can be compared or contrasted against the other arts. I cater, I teach, I cook for friends and family and I share foods I prepare with strangers. My food is accepted by strangers not because of anything I do, but it is what the food shares with them. Every year at the end of Ramadan, I prepare a dessert called Sheer Khurma. I prepare it with the same respect for a tradition that a Indian potter has for the earth and its ability to accept back into it what a potter prepares for function today. My Sheer Khurma is not about food, it is about sharing something ancient, traditional, something emotional and something immediately heart warming. Even before the stranger accepts my package of Sheer Khurma, their eyes are expressing comfort, their mouths are salivating and their words are thanking me for having continued a tradition that is as old as their culture. And all of this even before they take a single bite of this sweet pudding made with vermicelli. Is this not what art does silently? At least the great paintings that leave generations with a lasting impression did nothing different. Like any art form, the foundation of cooking is based on technique. There is a body of knowledge about the food itself - the vegetables, the spices, the herbs, the sauces - but this information is meaningless unless applied with sensitivity. I use the words sensitivity and knowledge in all of their nuances: knowing when a vegetable like the bitter melon, karela, is perfectly in season; understanding how to remove the bitterness; and, finally being aware of its healing properties. There's a perfect moment to eat karela, just as there's an appropriate time for an Indian raga to be played. There are monsoon ragas, morning ragas, and ragas that are played when the lover has gone. Music, dance, visual arts and food are always respected for their ability to cleanse the soul, and heal. Cooking (at least Indian cooking that I practice more so than others) has always found a willing companion in art and music. They always seem to go together. Any musical gathering first begins with prayers to the gods and offering of food to them. Just as emotions are a part of music so are they a part of cooking. Thus in India one finds that to evolve ones palate one also studies the appreciation of music and art. In the Indian kitchen one entertains spices or masalas. The seeds, stalks and powders are all found. There are masalas that can set ones palate to receive taste sensations in the most profound ways. There are those that can alter feelings. And this is only the very basic exploration into what can be a larger thesis for a doctoral study of food as an art form.

I have seen them in China town in a Vietnamese restaurant last year. I was eating at a Banquet that Mai Pham had led for some food writers. And we defintely tasted hot mint... I shall try and see if I can get a hold of Mai and see if she has any more information on these leaves. And yes, do check out the Chinese board... I look forward to learning more about that great cuisine through your posts there.

Bond Girl, yes it is the same soup. I had the tastiest one I have ever had in Goa. Honestly! And then the second favorite version of it in Singapore. They are both fresh and alive in my memory. I am not sure where one can buy these leaves. In fact I did not even know there was something called Laksa leaves... eGullet teaches me something every day. Have you seen the new created Chinese forum? I am sure Ed Schoenfeld and the rest of us can stand to gain a lot from your experiences growing up as a Taiwanese. I know Ed has been to Taiwan and has fond memories. I shall let you know if I ever come across these leaves.... Now I shall make an effort to find out more about Laksa.

I was reading the post about the Laksa some eGulleteers enjoyed at Shopsins in NYC. It took me back to those great bowls that have eaten in parts of Asia. I have never made any at home. Recipes or tips anyone? Pan, I am hoping you would find this thread and share some of your insight. I have enjoyed reading your posts on Malaysian cooking before... I think you had lived there... Am I correct in assuming that? Thanks for any help you can provide me with this.. and also to all others...

What are some of the dishes you remember from your earlier days at Vong? I may just go and eat a meal there.. to see how time passes by these days... PS: Not to tease you or belittle you, Casablanca is one of the least exotic cities in Morocco, or rather the world. But yes Hollywood can make many places look different than they really are.

Interesting! Have you been to Casablanca? Do you think of it as exotic? Palatial? What gives you that impression? Does Vong seem stagnant to you (time stands still)? I used to like Vong.. have not gone back in years... Not sure what to think of it.. or even if I should return... It was once very good...

What is the casablancian sort of way Tommy? Being serious here... I think Morocco when I think Casablanca. But that would hardly be appropriat for French and Thai... I wonder if I need to be in on something else. Please explain.. thanks.

Good choice Damian. When in the hood with friends, I am happy going there. Did you know the same Indian owner owns the pasta place (Pappardella) across the street? In fact a Sikh chef makes the pastas and speaks perfect Italian.

A great pearl of wisdom. And the reverse is true as well, Anna. No great line chef or not so great line chef or chef, would share with you all the details they have learned over years of experience. They would have little if any time to tell you how they got to a certain point in their cooking experience. And it is then that you can rely on cookbooks. Even those with bad recipes. I think the key is to be as rounded as you can be. Learn from the cooks in your community of friends, learn from restaurants chef (through a few hours each week that you could volunteer) and learn from reading books. There will always be cuisines and recipes that you will not find any chefs to learn from, for those you have books..and there will be recipes you can mimic from having watched a chef, and the soul of that you could find after reading a few lines in a good book. Life is about finding meaning in many ways.. and something special in all things. Always a silver lining everywhere.