Suvir Saran

Polly, I have been saying that to friends for over 10 years and no one believes me. Now I have proof for my theory. I never taste for salt. I simply pour and pour, sniff and stir, and I can tell when to stop.

Polly, what was the Pachadi made with? Do you make any these days? What do you use in it? What do you put in your tadka? Or do you even use a Tadka? PS: Tadka is a perfumed oil. It is used as a finishing garnish. There is a thread in this forum about Tadkas.

I can respect that. I too love mushrooms. But also they really do lend themselves with flavor. Especially the very plain grocery store white ones.. those very simple ones. You know the ones I mean... They have little if any flavor... mostly all meaty. Spices are a wonderful marriage to their otherwise flat personality. It immediately makes them into a partner that seems a prized companion.

Tell is more... What else did Apicius say or do with and about spices??? Do you pickle stuff? What are your favorite pickling spices? Do you use all the traditional ones? Or do you use your own blend?

What was that Jam like? Do you remember? Would love to know more about it.. maybe it is the same thing we Indian kids grew up craving.

How funny this is. When Mamster was doing his story, I spoke with him and the one thing I mentioned to him was a similar story about school kids. I was telling him about my own experience with the elderly woman who sold candy... and how the Tamarind sweet, tangy, sour and spicy ball was everyones favorite. It does bring back memories does it not?

A Pakistani friend shared her little secret for aging Basmati. She adds bay leaves, cardamoms and cloves in the rice. And a little salt and some saffron strands. Her Biryani is the best I have ever had. And her rice is always the best. Even simple plain rice.

The summers are a great time to think of Tamarind. I always think of climbing atop a Tamarind tree and watching my mother pickle fruits and veggies as she did when I was a young boy in Nagpur. I always go back to that memory. But on Wednesday, I drank some Panna (drink made with green mango) and in this version, tamarind juice had also been added. It was amazing. What are you making with Tamarind this summer? Is there a favorite way you use Tamarind?

Mamster, Has your article been published?

I ate Monday night amazing Tandoori Mushrooms at Bukhara Grill. The size of the white regular grocery store mushrooms was HUGE. The marinade had the usual mix of hung yogurt, ginger, garlic, turmeric, toasted cumin, cilantro stems, red chile powder, salt, toasted besan flour (chickpea flour) and garam masala. I think they had added very little cheese as well. Baby Gouda works very well. They were marinated in this marinade for a few hours and grilled in the tandoor. Absolutely wonderful. Is anyone doing anything summery and spicy with mushrooms?

Simon Da, How was that wedding feast? You never reported back. What did you take? What did the others bring? Suvir

Has anyone made any pickles yet, this summer? I am going to be making eggplant pickle, chile pickle and lemon pickles.

Simon are there any recipes you could share with us? I have always loved the way Bengalis treat fish... any recipes from Tarmar? What fish would you use in your dishes? How do you make that choice?

Jason, DId you ever make these? How did they come out?

Can someone remind me about that famous English saying about Critics?? What does it say....? But jokes apart, I am sure there are many good critics, but really we do need an overhaul of the entire system. Certainly the good ones stand to become legendary with that happening. Can that be such a bad thing after all?

Thanks should go to you... Again, you share a great post for all of us to enjoy and reflect upon. I am sure many others have tried to articulate what you shared, maybe not all were able to give words to what they felt. But in your post, you have made it clear and simple and evidence for each of us to understand what we do at eGullet.

Absolutely! If we cannot give a culinary artist the same respect and leeway we offer the visual artists, we should not even bother having reviews. Art is art in any form. Be it that hanging on a wall as a painting or a serigraph, a movie or documentary, a play, opera or a street dance. They all need to have the same rules for criticism. It is the ability of modern day chefs to take simple and haunting foods from the homes and transform them into visual and yet edible feasts for all our senses that has made food become one of, if not the most indulged art form of all. Why should we then deprive these artists of the same standards we have employed when critiquing the others? To not do so, is to stunt the growth of this most satisfying and essential of creative arts.

And I recently learned from a friend tha wonderful addition of chilled milk into the bowl in which you serve the strawberry shortcake. It makes it even more amazing. He was served it this way by his grandmother. And I can understand why it has stayed on with him.

Jaymes, I think that note A caped chef posted was meant to apologise and move on. Not to move away from the site. But to bring closure to where he erred. I have seen his posts around the site today. I am sure he has understood that he over-reacted. And his apology was timely and the least I would have expected from a person I should want to respect. And certainly he is just as valuable to the great mix of members we have at egullet as any one else. Also of great value in his particular case, at least to me is his briging to us, with the addition of a small group of other such prized members, is the valued opinion of professional chefs. As a whole, I wish myself and all eGulleteers more patience before we each react and make such pronouncements as we saw on this thread. It was apparent in this case, as has been the case most times, that our reactions to many issues, is often not based in any facts. It would be best to not react personally in a site that is a public one. That would be a lesson we can all learn from this. And since I was active at the board last night, I quickly found myself lost in that tenuous issue, but woke up to the magic that eGullet is, in seeing that this thread had moved on to even more fascinating and significant turns. I thank all those members and the coordinators that have made this a great thread for each of us to learn and understand how chefs, professional and avocational use certain ingredients and why.

"The craft of restaurant reviewing is right now at an all-time low. The reviews on the whole aren't interesting to read, and Zagat and other shorthand rating systems are crushing the reviewers. The only power the reviewers have right now is their stars, not their reviews, and that shouldn't be the point. We need to change the way we think about restaurant reviews. We need to bring them up to the standards of other serious criticism or they will slowly disappear into obscurity. We need reviews that the folks here on eGullet will rush to read every week because they are forward-thinking, sophisticated, well-written, and contain the best available information. And those that aren't as enthusiastic as eGullet's users need to be infected with our enthusiasm. They need to be shown an unadulterated love of food and dining and restaurants and all the trappings. They need to be educated, cajoled, whatever it takes to get them interested in something more than stars and Zagat ratings. I don't know if anybody's up to the job but it seems obvious to me it's what we need to be doing. " Steve that was the most amazing piece of writing I have read in a long time. How beautifully you have shared the need of the day. You could certainly bring many to your side on this debate if they read what you wrote. Lizziee is both kind in her post and also makes her reputed fine taste, honesty and intelligence known by sharing not only what she feels, but by also exposing openly how she has changed her original thought after reading your views. Not many would do what she has. Kudos to her for being public about it. We need more that are as confident about themselves as her, that they can appreciate and compliment and follow after those they originally did not want to side with in one particular issue. And lastly, I cannot tell you how poignant you words are. They are infectious and I agree with Lizziee that it would be great for all restaurant owners and chefs and reviewers to read what you posted. It is beautiful, it is apposite and it is the call of the moment. And it does not surprise me that it comes from your mind and is first read at eGullet.

Not at all. They were cetainly thinking they were making some Masala. But certainly not even remotely close to Garam Masala. Garam Masala to Indian cooking is like Herbs de Provence is to French cooking. It is a finishing spice, a spice not always used. A spice from a certain region. The British loved and craved the very bold flavors of Indian food they had been hooked to. They now needed a way of making food bold and spicy without spending hours grinding, roasting, frying or mincing spicing and herbs. With Curry Powder, they were able to get most of it in one spoonful. Garam Masala is only used as a pinch or two or even at the most one teaspoon and those recipes calling for that much are few and far between. Garam Masala is what defines the "haath ki safaayi" that many Indian chefs have forgotten. "Haath ki Safaayi" is translated into english as the wizardry of a masters hand. Those that know Indian food know the delicate but warm complexity that Garam Masala adds to dishes. They also know that just a tiny amount, over cooked or under cooked can ruin a dish. Not so with Curry Powder. No such subtlety exists. The Brits were simply trying to create a blend that would eliminate the need for each kitchen to have containers and spice boxed filled with at times upto or more than 24 spices and ingredients.

You should hardly be embarassed. You know so much about so many things.. and you cook just 3 dishes with curry powder? That in itself is amazing. To most of America, the many dishes they find in Indian restaurants are dishes they feel would be made of Curry Powder. And many chefs including those worshipped by the Francophiles are using curry powder and many with great freedom and little understanding of Curry Powder and its power as you have very rightly explained. You have little to worry about and much for us to thank you for. You always seem to know so much about the very fine nuances of Indian cooking that if I had not met you, I would think you were simply saying things sometimes to debate others. I would take it as given that you were Indian. And you make Rabri.... how can anyone not treat you with reverence?

If origins of curry powder are the issue, even more categorically, Curry Powder and Garam Masala have little in common than merely being powders using spices. Curry Powder had its origings in the desire for the British to make a quick fix that would give them the flavors of Indian food without having to make too much of an effort. Garam Masala is essential to Indian cooking and yet, can often be left out without being noticed. That is how subtle and delicate it is. Curry Powder is on the very other extreme end of the scale. It has a very bold personality. If a recipe calls for it, you cannot do without it. There is little if anything common in the two.

Absoultely and he also was born and raised with some of Americas most die-hard capitalists. He comes from the original Mayflower group (whatever t hat means), he is actually closely related to Julia Child, and Bim, Johns widow makes the best Omelette I have ever eaten, and she was taught that recipe by Julia Child in their country home in Canton, CT. But John, made money and lots of it, and has left behing a flourishing and endlessly lucrative empire that is actually realizing some of Gandhis dreams, making money for the capitalists and also respect and preserving the cultures and ways of a people very different from those born to money and wealth. So, yes, John has left for those that care, a great example to study and learn how one can make great strides in learning and absorbing and marrying cultures. He has shown that it is possible and with great success when humility, respect and vision come with the simple need for wanting something different.

Suvir -- When you have a chance, please consider discussing whether the consistency of Maggi Hot and Sour is that of Maggi Sauce (thin). The latter is one of my favorite seasonings, including on a sunny side up egg. Cabrales, The Maggi Hot and Sour is thin. Some of my American friends hate that about it. But enjoy the flavors. Cabrales my brother would use this Maggi sauce as a condiment with eggs as well. In fact for lack of truffle oil and asparagus in India when I was growing up, this was often the side to those famous eggs you at at Ino. I grew up eating them minus the truffle oil. I love eggs enough to need nothing with them, my brother would mix the Hot and Sour sauce with the yolk and seem very happy.