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Borgstrom

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Everything posted by Borgstrom

  1. One thing I've noticed a lot of kitchen appliances benefit from is a powerful, robust motor: - Meat grinder - Vitamix / blender - Robot Coupe / food processor - Champion-style juicer - Stand mixer - Coffee grinder - Pasta extruder If you are in a commercial kitchen where everything is used all the time, or if you have a lot of cash/space, you may end up buying one of each of these devices, each with a very powerful 1+ HP motor. In a home environment, many of us would like an appliance with a powerful motor but can't really afford the money or space to get a high-end, powerful device for each function. What's more, we usually don't need to use more than one of these devices at a time. How about an appliance that is centered around a very powerful motor, with appropriate attachments for each of the functions listed above? One key design parameter would be the motor's axis of rotation; some of the functions require a vertical axis, others require a horizontal axis. To reduce the amount of gearing required, increase reliability and keep cost down, perhaps the base unit could rotate the motor 90 degrees based on the function. This would be eco/green because only one motor would be manufactured/shipped/ultimately discarded instead of seven. And, assuming the design and materials are beefy enough, I could use the system for decades without having to upgrade or otherwise replace.
  2. Yes-I brined for three days as suggested in the book. Not sure about the reason for different brining times, but then again I have not read the brining section of the book yet...
  3. Borgstrom

    Dinner! 2011

    Reuben sandwich with home-made short rib pastrami following the Modernist Cuisine recipe (3 days brine, 4H smoke, 3 days sous vide)
  4. Finished the Beef Cheek Pastrami (3-213), using boneless short ribs tonight. The only variation to the recipe was reducing smoking time to 2.5H from 4H due to some operator on my part with the ProQ smoke generator.... In any event the result was very, very good. Like other multi-day short ribs I've done, the meat was exceptionally tender. With the brine, smoking and rub I expected the flavor to be overpowering, but instead is was very well balanced. Very nice; will definitely make it again. The good news is I don't need to worry about making the rub component for a while
  5. I've got a Weston Pro-2300 edge vacuum sealer. Although it has a manual seal button, I've never been able to get a good vacuum and seal for bags that have any significant volume of liquid (e.g.short ribs in a brine for pastrami). Either I would press the seal button too fast and not get a good vacuum, or I'd wait too long and liquid would enter the vacuum area and prevent the seal. Normally in a case like this, I would revert to the low-tech displacement technique using a ziploc bag and a container of water. The other day, I tried a new approach: I submerged a vacuum pouch containing the ribs/brine into the water bath, displacing all air. Then, with the Weston right up next to water bath I inserted the unsealed end of the pouch just over the seal bar, but not actually into the vacuum area. This let me use the Weston effectively as a impulse sealer. I got a high quality seal, no air in the pouch and no liquid in the Weston! I repeated a few times to get mulitple seals for a 72H sous vide session. Here's a shot of one of the bags at about 40H.
  6. Yes, but these books (I have both) don't include scaling. My gripe with MC (at least with the pastrami recipe) is in the consistency of the scaling across components of a recipe. In the pastrami recipe 100% equates to 1kg of beef; move down to the brine component and that percentage holds -- 225%/2.25kg water, 0.35%/3.5g coriander seeds, etc. correspond to that same 1kg of beef -- no brine left over. However the rub has 7.5%/75g juniper berries -- which is enough for about 6kg of beef. How did they choose this 6x ratio for the rub? Why not 10x? or 3x? Why not just make it 1x? I could see making the rub a standalone recipe where the 75g of juniper berries equates to 100%, but here it is a component with scaling based on the main ingredient (beef). Anyway, I'll just leave it at that...too much of the engineer in me coming out...I can't wait for the pastrami to come out on Friday!
  7. First of all, I have to say I'm a huge fan of MC and really feel fortunate and thankful that someone like Nathan with the intellect, curiosity, passion and resources to pull off this project so well emerged and made it happen. It's hard to imagine anyone else making something like MC, and for it to be both so comprehensive and so approachable. I'm also very glad that he and his team have great palates -- all of the too few recipes I've made so far (Mac & Cheese, Microwave Beef Jerky, Asparagus, NY steak w/lemon egg fluid gel, Russian smoked salmon, Caramelized Carrot Soup, White Beef Stock, ...I'm sure I'm missing some) have tasted amazingly great. I'm reading every page from volume 1 page 1, currently about 1/3 of the way through volume 3. Reading this book really makes me feel like I'm making up for never having had any formal (or informal) instruction in cooking. I'm currently working on the Beef Cheek Pastrami (with boneless short ribs) -- they just came out of the "smoker" and went into water bath for dinner on Friday. Which brings me to my first real gripe about MC: Illogical scaling of recipe components. I had 1.3Kg of short ribs for the Pastrami, so I scaled up to get all the proportions right. So far, so good. So I went to make the rub tonight and found I needed something like 97g of Juniper Berries and a similar amount of Coriander Seeds. I had nearly whole jars of each so I thought I'd be fine -- until I realized each jar had only 38g of each spice. So I dropped everything, rushed down to WF to get some more. Good luck -- they had bulk Coriander Seeds, so I was able to get a lot for $2. No such luck on the Juniper Berries -- they were over $5 per 38g jar and I needed two more jars. Ouch! Well, to make a long story shorter, the scaling for the rub makes something like 6 times the amount of rub you need. There was no need to scale up the amounts in the rub -- I should have scaled down! I noticed something similar with the Mac & Cheese recipe -- far more cheese is created compared to the amount of pasta specified. Now in both of these cases, I suppose one could argue that you can save the excess for the next time you make the dish. And that is exactly what I have done, and will do. Or that I should carefully study the amount of a sub-component actually used and revise the scaling accordingly. But it strikes me as illogical to list scaling percentages for sub-components of dishes based on the main component when the sub-component isn't really at the same scale. To me, a logical approach would be to (a) have the entire recipe be at the same scale, so you are not left with a massive amount of an excess sub-component, or (b) clearly state somewhere that the sub-component recipe makes enough for several batches and the extra can be vacuum-sealed and frozen for future use. With the current approach, no matter how much you scale the overall recipe up or down, you will always end up with too much rub or too much cheese in these cases. Does this make sense, or is there some other reasoning behind the approach used in these two (at least) recipes? Perhaps in a professional kitchen you repeat dishes every night and will figure out the proper scaling over time? Or perhaps I'm just grouchy because I just bought $10 of Juniper Berries that I really didn't need...
  8. I'm in the process of making Beef Cheek Pastrami (3-213) with boneless short ribs; I'll be doing the smoking step tonight. Any recommendations on the wood to use for the smoking? I've got Alder, Cherry, Oak and Hickory available. Based on the table on 2-136, I'm leaning towards Oak or Hickory.
  9. I've got a Camrons as well for my first forays into smoking. So far I've only done seafood -- mostly trout, some salmon. A couple of weeks ago I did a "vertical" tasting of smoked trout, smoking different fillets individually with Alder, Cherry and Oak. I have to say my favorite is Alder, but all were really fantastic. I had no idea how easy and delicious home-smoked trout is. Brine the fish, let it dry a while to form a pellicle, and throw it in the Camrons for 30 min. Could hardly be easier. While exploring Modernist Cuisine, however, I've found there's a lot that you can't really do with a Camerons, namely cold smoking and smoking for longer than about 30 minutes. Right now, I'm making pastrami following the MC recipe, which calls for 3 days of brine, 4 hours smoking at 77C, followed by 3 days sous vide at 62C. I obviously can't use the Camerons for this -- the sawdust is typically gone after 30 minutes and I doubt I could keep the temperature low enough. What I'm going to try for this is a ProQ Cold Smoke Generator, which I'll put in my large-ish gas grill (away from the flame) to generate smoke. I'll then use the furthest-away burner to try to keep the interior of the grill at 77C. We'll see how it works...
  10. That's exactly what I've done, using little adhesive dots in the corner of each page that has a correction. Took me about 20 minutes this afternoon: The only potential downside is that there are 112 pages (as of May 1, 2011) that need to be marked in the Kitchen Manual, and their thickness adds up: I suppose an alternative approach would be to just use a Sharpie pen to make a dot, or put dots at various positions across the bottom of the page or next to the affected recipe so their thickness doesn't add up. In any event, the adhesive dots come off with minimal effort and no damage, so I can try a new system later if I want.
  11. You may have the heat cranked up too much. Make sure you turn down the burner to its lowest setting once the PC comes up to pressure. On my Fagor PC there is just a little steam coming from the vent during cooking with the gas turned down to minimum; that way I know I'm at pressure but I'm keeping most of the vapor inside the PC. I made this soup as directed last week (well, except for substituting WF carrot juice for the centrifuged type) and it turned out amazingly well.
  12. Amazon must be getting desperate for copies of MC to sell...just noticed the following on the amazon.com home page today: Anybody going to take them up on their offer?
  13. Ruhlman also plugs MC in his review of Achatz's Life, On the Line: It's also interesting to note that he uses "Modernist cuisine" as a generic term several times in the article -- an amazingly rapid transition from the title of a book to the label for a movement. How many years did it take Xerox or Kleenex (or Hoover for you folks in the UK) take to reach this status? MC has done it in less than a month!
  14. Will definitely have to check out Oyster House; also ranked very well with PhillyMag.
  15. I'll be in Philadelphia next week, taking a course at University of Pennsylvania. Does anybody have any current recommendations on good dinner places near campus or close via train? (I'll be car-less) Price really isn't an issue, but I'd prefer a more relaxed place but with exceptional food. I'm from Northern California and I don't think I've ever spent a day in Philadelphia, so It would be great to try something regional, if that exists. I'll certainly get cheese steak one day. What else should I look for?
  16. Back when I was looking at stoves, I noticed a few combination microwave/conventional ovens, including the GE Advantium line that used microwave+halogen lamps. Whirlpool also has their SpeedCook model that combines halogen/microwave/steam. Haven't seen these discussed much online or elsewhere. It looks like these vendors were trying to position these as the next big thing in oven technology, but then it never really caught on. Perhaps they are a bit gun-shy now in promoting another next big thing in oven technology...
  17. I made some sous vide asparagus tonight, using Modernist Cuisines's best bet -- 15 min at 85c. The stalks were pretty thick, so I was worried it would come out too hard. But for my taste, it had just the right amount of "toothiness'. I gave the bag a 30-second dunk in boiling water (followed by a shock in cold water/freezer for a few minutes) before putting in the water bath to try to preserve the color. In the end, I think it was a fine, light preparation. However, I still really prefer grilled asparagus, with lots of brown/black marks...
  18. Borgstrom

    Dinner! 2011

    Sudden burst of energy on a Tuesday night: made a salmon souffle (New Basics recipe) with the remnants of the hot-smoked salmon I made last week, plus some sous vide asparagus using Modernist Cuisine best bet (15min/85c). Asparagus looks kind of naked without a sauce, but was very nice/light after some heavy meals over the weekend.
  19. In your blog, you say that you are making some corrections for the second printing. Do you plan on publishing an errata for those of us with the first edition?
  20. Borgstrom

    Dinner! 2011

    Beef shank cooked sous-vide for 72 hours at 62C. Bagged shanks with 3 ice cubes. 10 second dunk in boiling water before going into circulator -- no funky smell when de-bagging! Browned with MAPP torch. Served with some polenta, gremolata and jus from the bag. Very good -- fall-apart tender, mid-rare. Marrow was yummy on bread!
  21. Quite annoying, really. I had such high hopes for the show, but I've removed it from my TiVo Season Pass after the first episode. I don't know if it is his horrible people-management style, his seeming lack of knowledge or just how the program is edited, but something really bugs me about it. Their approach is everything is going wrong in the beginning, none of the techniques are working, oh the drama, and in the end everything is great, whew! Without really explaining anything or providing any educational value. Why not try spend and extra 10-20 seconds to explain why something didn't work, how you figured out a different approach? I don't think this show will do the modernist cuisine movement any favors with the general population. I'm getting so tired of food-related TV programming. I think I'll just sit back with MC and figure out what I'm going to make this weekend...
  22. Very cool...may have to head down to Home Depot tomorrow after work...thanks for the idea!
  23. I am deeply impressed with the design of MC, especially in tables, graphs, illustrations and recipes. They have done a great job in laying out complex information in a very clean, understandable way. Much of the design reminds me of Edward Tufte's approach in Visual Display of Quantitative Information, with an emphasis on having a high "data-ink" ratio in graphics. The table-style recipes in particular represent a new benchmark for clarity and compactness -- I hope to see more cookbooks use this approach. Congratulations to Mark Clemens and the rest of the design team!
  24. Yeah, I suppose I'm not going to be re-creating the MC recipe at this point...unless.... I wonder how long it would take to get a Bradley delivered!
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