Dave the Cook

Sonic used to be a standby for me, as my youngest liked -- and this seems to be the trend on this topic -- the beverages. It's nice that they offer tots (executed reasonably well), and that's usually how I spent my dollar. But I think the real problem with Sonic is that they're like those restaurants that offer Chinese, sushi, wings, teriyaki and gyros (yes, there's one near me): they try to do so many things that they end up not doing anything very well.

Since you'll be in the neighborhood, you probably should stop in. The overall selection isn't jaw-dropping, but I haven't yet been there when I didn't find something interesting, even if it was just a 1.75 of Flor de Cana 4-year old for like nine bucks (the owner made it even more interesting by throwing in a bottle of Pineau de Charentes). They also deliver to French Quarter hotels for no extra charge -- a blessing if you buy a case of stuff and don't fancy lugging it through the crowds in the heat.

Despite the front-panel array of mechanical devices, it's unlikely that any mass-market dishwasher is made these days without computer control built in, and that means circuit boards. It's just too expensive (and despite anecdotal data, less reliable) to set up a mechanical program to handle five wash cycles with three options.

More or less true (and also true for a good electric), but those are not the reasons restaurants use gas. They use it because when you run ranges 12 to 14 hours a day, the difference in price between gas and electric becomes substantial. ETA: I've been using a Miele induction top when teaching classes for the last few months. I don't find it a very impressive performer, though I admit that everything Anna says is correct.

If that was correct, G-rat would have gotten an emulsion at some point before breaking. (S)he said that never happened. But it would help if we could take a look at the recipe.

G-rat, was it extra-virgin olive oil? It's notoriously unstable in emulsions; heating it for a long might not have helped. To check, heat some new oil without poaching anything, then try to make a mayo with it. If it works, then the artichokes become the prime suspects. ETA: no, mustard shouldn't be necessary (though I agree a little is tasty). McGee famously demonstrated that a single egg yolk can emulsify gallons of oil.

Hmm, that's a good question. I assumed that I would just strain the stock, then continue to boil it down until it had reduced. I'm not sure that's the best method, though. Okay, I cross-posted with Janet, but maybe I have some additional tips. You have to have a formula. Here's mine; you don't need to use this one in particular, but you'll need to come up with something that suits your tastes. I figure on one quart of finished stock for every two pounds of meat and bones (for land animals; fish and shellfish require different techniques). This gives me consistent results, and means that I don't have to worry about how much water I start with. So I weigh the meat, then roast all ingredients if I want a brown stock, or not, if I don't. Everything goes into the stockpot with enough water to cover generously. Simmer as needed. Chicken goes eight to twelve hours; lamb, pork or beef go longer. When I'm done with the simmer, I strain the stock into a large Cambro container and let it cool, then refrigerate. I don't worry too much about time in the danger zone, because I know the stock will be boiled the next day. I skim the fat and other junk off the top, then go back the original weights. If I started with eight pounds of meat and bones, I measure out four quarts of chilled stock into my pot. I dip a wooden spoon into the stock and mark the level for four quarts on the shaft of the spoon with a Sharpie. The rest of the stock goes in, and the heat goes on. I bring it to a boil and let it roil, checking the level against my spoon mark from time to time. When I hit that level, I know I've got a consistent concentration, and I can be done. However. If I want an 8:1 reduction, instead of measuring four quarts, I pour out two cups before reducing and mark my spoon. For 4:1, I measure a quart. My habit is to slightly over-reduce, then pour into a measuring cup and add water to make it exact.

I was going to suggest cutting a small piece and frying it up to see how it was -- with that information, we could be more helpful (or unnecessary). But if you're already cooking, go for it. If they're too salty to eat, you'll still have great seasoning for just about any sort of bean soup you care to make.

Almost all Persian (Bearss) limes are imported, mostly from Mexico. This has been true since 1992, when Hurricane Andrew demolished Florida's lime groves. Ironically, Persian limes were established in Florida in the wake of the heavy hurricane season of 1926, which wiped out most of the Mexican (Key) lime trees. The USDA doesn't even track US lime production any more. Most likely we're just between harvests in Mexico; reports say that a good crop is on the way (maybe as early as this week). Quality (though not size at first) should improve and prices moderate.

That's soapstone, which we discussed over here. It does come in different colors, but all of them are dark, sometimes with marble-like veining.

I'd say "anywhere Ian Kleinman is cooking," but since leaving O's, he seems to be catering and hosting the occasional dinner for hushDenver. However, in a recent Westworld interview, he named Opus as his favorite Denver restaurant, and also cited 1515 and New Saigon. Opus seems especially interesting, and a recommendation from Kleinman is trustworthy.

I'll second Think Like a Chef; it seems to be exactly what you're looking for. Also consider: Emeril's New New Orleans Cooking: lots of restaurant techniques successfully refashioned for the home kitchen. Simple Italian Cooking: just what it says, with Mario's touch.

Most resources I've seen say 140­ to 145 F for 3-1/2 to 4 minutes. You could go higher for less time, but the yolk will start to coagulate.

I'm not sure whether or not pasteurization will extend shelf life, though perhaps it's noteworthy that commercial producers use pasteurized eggs. What it will do is protect you from the slight chance of salmonella (roughly 1 in 20,000 eggs is the latest information I've seen). I doubt that it would have a deleterious effect on your mayonnaise. Manufacturers often add calcium disodium EDTA, which is a preservative of sorts. P.S. If you're interesting in other mayo experiments, try the frozen-yolk version.

For mayonnaise, refined oils work better than unrefined oils like extra-virgin olive oil. Although EVOO lends a great taste to mayo, the oil droplets created during emulsification coalesce in a relatively short period (see McGee, page 635, for a more complete explanation). Use unrefined oils as flavorings, rather than bases, for mayonnaise. It's also often possible to re-emulsify a mayonnaise that appears to have broken by stirring in a little water. Hollandaise and its relatives can be revived very slowly in a double boiler (though you should not let the water actually boil) or a carefully-watched microwave using repeated applications of low power. It's unlikely that you'll be able to get them back to their original serving temperature, but you can get them well above room temperature (as in, you can make them pourable) if you're attentive. Hollandaise is not a mayonnaise-based sauce. They have eggs and fat in common, but the application of heat and specific use of butter rather than vegetable oil in making the former are significant differences.

Good point: damage occurs in both directions. Freeze fast, thaw slow.

Yes, but gradual thawing is essential to minimize cell damage and the resulting loss of liquid.

I'm not really sure. KA says the broiler element for the current equivalent model to mine is 3240 watts (roughly 11K BTU), but in fact I have two broiler elements. One is employed in "Econo" mode, which I would rename "Pretty Useless" if I could; I suspect that this element is not as powerful (maybe 1600 watts/5400 BTU) as the broiling element. In "Maxi" mode, both elements come on, combining to make a six-pass unit that provides even, high heat spanning about two-thirds of the oven width -- as it happens, the width of half-sheet pans and most broiling pans.

Poking around on the Blue Star site a bit, I noticed that their oven come with 15K BTU infrared broilers; I know that DCS ranges at least used to have them, too. Traditionally-constructed broiler performance seems to vary widely among manufacturers. My $3000 Kitchen Aid range has a fierce unit that makes the 30" American-style Miele oven I use for teaching (at $4000 for a single oven) seem like a butter warmer. If you go shopping, maybe you should take a loaf of bread for testing purposes.

Funny how no one ever mentions the Galliano problem.

Well, the upside of "old" is "simple." No circuit boards, few if any tricky circuits. A competent electrician should be able to figure out how it all works. So maybe you stock some spare parts in advance, pack some fiberglass in the surrounding cabinet space and cross as many fingers as you can while still being able to twist the temperature dials.

I think you need to take an unsentimental look at the Thermadors. Sure, they look awesome, and they're a part of American culinary history that I would be proud to own. Those are the emotional considerations. Practically, though, they're going to be expensive to get up and running, and will be expensive (and probably involve considerable downtime) to repair -- and because of their age, will likely need more frequent repair. Also because of their age, they're probably not well insulated, which will affect operating costs and, if you have air conditioning, your cooling bill.

Call me odd -- I've been called worse -- but so far my favorite use of S&C has been in a Manhattan derivative: 2:1 with CAF, dashes of orange, cherry and aromatic bitters, lemon twist -- practically a dessert. It's a worthy sub for Inner Circle Green in Dave's Two Indies -- not the same, but more than serviceable, from which I deduce that it will require adjustments (or perhaps undoing adjustments) in other tiki-like drinks. I'm also thinking of something that combines it with a bitter component and a bubbly float. I haven't figured that out yet -- seems like the cocktail equivalent of 80s new wave music: assertive top and bottom, with whiny stuff in the middle.

First, congratulations! This looks like a great find -- it reminds me of the kitchen (built at roughly the same time, I suspect) where I first started learning to cook. The ovens in particular are stunning. Second, I'm sorry, but I have no resources to suggest as yet. But -- I do have questions: What's the flooring? Vinyl, vinyl asbestos, linoleum? The cooktop appears to be a spacious 4-coil unit. But the hood extends to the left to cover something else. What is it? What's the door-like thing on the wall to the left of the cooktop? Vent to the outside (I hope)?

A few things to keep in mind: The waitstaff did not decide to send out extra dishes or comp your meal. The chef, matire d' or owner did. Therefore, an extra dish is likely to be an unwelcome distraction to a server. All the more so because you've now been identified as some sort of VIP by the kitchen or the owner, and the server knows that they must do their best, without an explicit promise of compensation for service. An extra dish is not recognized by line cooks as extra work. It shows up on a ticket and they make it. If it doesn't show up on a ticket, the chef or a sous prepares it. In any case, none of these people work for tips (sorry, commis!) If you neglect to tip appropriately, a good chef or maitre d' will make it up out of their own pockets. (This does not bode well for your future visits.) There's no good excuse for not knowing the appropriate amount to tip. If you're confused, ask the maitre d' or chef what the approximate value of the freebies was. They're not going to be embarrassed, and neither should you. No one -- except maybe you -- thinks that this is anything other than a commercial transaction.