southern girl

Southern Girl KO'd...by the Herbfarm and Amex....I just received a letter from Amex telling me I would have to pay up...the Herbfarm wins. During the interim I received an offer for a gift certificate to return to the Herbfarm (non-transferable or some lucky PNW person would have been the beneficiary!). I declined the gift certificate and reinterated my request for a credit to my Amex since the chances of my returning to Seattle were slim, which I would think they factored into the equation before making the offer (not to mention that although I did enjoy Jerry Traunfeld's food...I now have a very bad taste in my mouth...and would not care to return). I received absolutely no response from the Herbfarm to this request (it was by email- so there is no...the check is in the mail). I have to think this is not the first time they have been challenged on their policy...and not the first time they have won...as I am sure their dollar volume to the credit card companies is quite high. If I am Amex...I have to think they thought something along the lines of...Gee, a complaint against the Herbfarm who provides us with a very substantial amount of income from the percentage we charge for them for allowing people to use our card....vs. a long term cardholder, who does use her card until the numbers wear off...but provides insignificant (comparatively speaking) income to us...Easy decision for Amex...Herbfarm by a KO over SG. I did write AMEX expressing my disappointment with their decision...and I imagine I will receive on of those lovely form letters telling me TS in politely phraseology ! Boo Hiss Herbfarm!! Boo hiss Amex!! And also the BBB for closing the case. As an aside...the Herbfarm received the Mobil 5 star award last week. The food really is excellent...but, I would never go back...nor would I ever have made the reservation in the first place had the policy been clearly explained...(guess that makes me sound like a(n) (un)gracious loser! Edit to improve clarity

Steve Klc..just checked it out...that was the second time I have had the crab salad...perhaps Patrice's was like mine the first time....the mustard froth lacked zip...which made for a mound of very nice crab in a puddle. I really liked the venison...granted it didn't have some of the more daring flavor combinations JG uses...but, I liked the juniper salt touch a lot...and the meat was perfectly cooked. With the pepper creme caramel...the night I it, it had a good pepper kick, guess it just shows even the best kitchens have their inconsistencies. I am sure in regard to dessert, Patrice being a professional, sets the bar higher than I do...I would give the desserts a B and the food an A... Patrice, what did you think of the Foie Brulee...

In need of a cheese fix...and an early meal so I could catch the Alabama-LSU football game on tv...I secured a 6pm reservation. I tend to either eat late here or on Sundays to avoid the pre-show crush. The restaurant gets very busy with people in a rush to make their shows. Some of them seem to inhale thier food and be way to stressed to enjoy what they consume. I had three hours before kickoff...and used most of that time. I was treated to the house cocktail...a glass of Champagne with pomegranete juice and a garnish of seeds and a lemon peel. Very refreshing. The amuse consisted of a spoon of Hamachi Tartare, a spoon of diced lobster with a hint of citrus oil and a lovely goat cheese panna cotta. For my dining adventure I chose the tasting menu royal. I was in the humor for a good bottle of red...but the menu called for white...I was not thrilled by the selection of white half bottles. The sommelier offered to open something he thought I would enjoy....a Corton Charlemagne, Rapet, 1997...and pour it by the glass. Lovley selection. The first course is one of my favorite at Picholine...Sea Urchin Panna Cotta with Chilled Ocean Consomme and Osetra Caviar (no caviar...allergic). The sea urchin panna cotta was smooth a deeply flavored. Unfortunately, the geleed consomme did not have usual briny strength I enjoy. Second Course: Duck and Wild Mushroom Croustillant with White Alba Truffles... a puff pastry package stuffed with duck confit and wild mushrooms, served over a mushroom cream sauce and topped with truffles shaved tableside...copious amounts of truffle ! I chose to ignore the pastry...rmove the confit mushroom mixture and enjoy it with small amounts of the sauce and every shaving of truffle...excellent dish...I enjoyed a taste of the red wine I had chosen, Musigny, Jacques Frederic Mugnier, 1997. Third Course: Warm Maine Lobster, Carmelized Endive and Vanilla-Brown Butter Vinaigrette- Perfectly cooked lobster with only a hint of vanilla flavor (thankfully)...nicely carmelized endive. A Surprise from the Kitchen: French Sardines "En Colere", Fingerling Potaoes and Olive Vinaigrette-Remembering my love for sardines, my captain snuck in this course...the sardine is served on its belly which is stuffed with bread crumbs flavored with carrot, onion and parsley then it is basically wrapped around and its tail stuck through its mouth...What can I say...I love sardines and the olive vinaigrette provided a nice foil for the stuffing. Fourth Course: Poached Day Boat Halibut, Bibb Lettuce and Pistachio-Foie Gras Vinaigrette- The halibut, a nicely sized piece, was unfortunately a bit overcooked. I liked the diced foie gras with pistachio that topped the fish though. Interesting combination. Roasted Loin of Millbrook Venison, Chestnut Spaetzle, Cabbage Confit and huckleberry Sauce- Three medium sized rare medallions...loved the chestnut spaetzle. Cheese Course: Valencay (semisoft goat); Epoisses (cows milk...wonderful runny); Spenwood (sheep milk) firm; Innerscheweizer Schafchas (sheep milk, soft); Cheddar (cow milk from Somerset, Eng. hard) and Harbourne Blue (goat milk blue, semisoft) Enjoyed withGewurtztraminer Altenbourg "Cuvee Laurence" Weinbach, 2000. I ran out of time for dessert ...so my captain decided I had to have a few cookies and chocolates to enjoy while I watched the game ...overall another very good meal with stellar service.

Three of us ventured to Gramercy Tavern for lunch in the dining room. As there have been umpteen descriptions of the room...I will skip that. Each of us enjoyed a champagne cocktail while perusing the menu. I chose the Tuna Tartare with Cucumber and Sea Urchin Vinaigrette. Medium dice, very fresh tuna served tossed with cucumber in a large white bowl. A wasabi touched vinaigrette with two very small bits of sea urchin. A bit disappointing. The tuna was very nice, but the lack of sea urchin and the relatively bland vinaigrette detracted from the dish. I coveted the dish of one of the other diners though. A Puree of Salisfy with Proscuitto, Chestnuts and Golden Raisins...absolutely velvety with a great touch of salt to the puree from the proscuitto. Excelllent. For my main course I ordered Braised Short Rib of Beef with Farro, Roasted Tomato and Confit of Horseradish (enjoyed with a glass of Brunello...forgot to write down who and when!)...An excellent dish...nicely braised fall- apart beef...a touch of saltiness from the tomatoes and zip from the horseradish...one of the best short rib preparations I've recently. I also tried an entree of one of the other diners...Braised Rabbit with Olives, Garlic Sausage, Rosemary and Mashed Potatoes. Tender large pieces of rabbit loin and legs...creamy, rich potatoes...very good. The only real negative to the meal was our service was a bit slow. One of our party had to return to a legal seminar (he allowed 2 hours for lunch and didn't make it) so he missed his dessert...too bad, his wife and I thoroughly enjoyed it ...Dessert, I chose Coffee- Toffee Meringues with Coffe Toffee Ice Cream, Butterscotch and Walnuts...I am a sucker for meringues and these were excellent...sandwiching the ice cream...which was a bit icy, but had good flavor and chunks of toffee...good butterscotch sauce. I also tasted the Chocolate- Caramel Tart with Caramel Ice Cream...positively wicked! And the dish of ice creams (Vanilla, Caramel and a third flavor I don't remember) with requested chocolate sauce accompanied by soft brownie like cookies. Overall a very good meal...with the exception of the spotty service and a piece of the banquette that was peeling off and attacking my hosiery !

Wilfrid...I would not have chosen the canolo myself...as I too am not a fan of the dried fruit either...but with the open preparation it was easy to avoid and just enough the ricotta and the pastry . And I want to thank you again for your "local knowledge". Nina and Charles...It was a La Fornace Brunello...entirely approachable after a bit of time in the glass. The restaurant price was $145...so, I would imagine it to be $50-60 retail. As an aside, they had 8 total offerings in the Brunello category...ranging I believe, from $75 to $700. The sommelier suggested the wine...as we needed something for the veal, venison and mushroom dishes chosen by various diners...and also a wine that wouldn't overpower the white truffle risotto. I admit I was dubious about that particular match...but, it worked nicely. This particular wine softened considerably from opening to the end of the meal. It was not a "huge" brunello...perhaps one of the '97s to be consumed now....unlike another I had recently...a Tenuta Caparzo...which I bought a few to put away as it had serious structure and tannins.

My third visit to JG was the charm...one experience fair, one very good and now I can add excellent to the list. I asked for and received a 5:30 reservation. Upon being seated I ordered a glass of Billecart Rose. My waiter, James, inquired if I was dining pre-theatre. I explained I had plenty of time, as I was attending the Alabama-Oklahoma basketball game at the Garden at 9:30. A discussion of sports ensued. Finally, a waiter with a personality at JG (and one who provided a perfectly paced meal with a surprise or four along the way ). I chose the Autumn tasting menu. It was preceded by a trio of amuse: a shot glass of Concord grape puree and jus topped with a peanut foam...not to my taste (or that of many of the other diners from my observation). James mentioned it was only the second night they had offered this amuse. A Chinese style soup spoon filled with carmelized pumpkin seeds topped with a small piece of ruby grapefruit (interesting). And, a raw Nantucket scallop, topped with a drop of cranberry puree and a small square of brown bread...very tasty. Foie Gras Brulee, Spiced Fig Jam...oh my...beautiful contrast of flavors and texture. Probably the most interesting preparation of foie I have had in ages. Served with an Iced Apple Wine from Quebec. Peekytoe Crab Salad, Fuji Apple, Hot Mustard Froth...another wonderful juxtapostion...the sweet crab, tart apple and spicy hot mustard froth. With this course (and the next three) I enjoyed a bottle of 1998 Chassagne Montrachet, Colin Delenger. Herb Risotto, Wild Mushroom and Porcini Confiture- Herbs included tarragon, marjoram and chives. Perfectly cooked risotto and a generous amount of porcini, shiitakes and chanterelles. My first surprise: I had mentioned my poor lunch at La Grenouille...and my disappointment regarding my frogs' legs. James arrives with an additional course from the regular menu: Young Garlic Soup with Thyme, Sauteed Frog Legs and Curly Cress...corpulent, juicy perfectly sauteed frog legs to dip ina beautiful light garlic accented broth. ! Slowly Cooked Chatham Cod, Potato "Noodles", Creme Fraiche, Vodka and Caviar: Due to an allergy...no caviar for me...and I think the saltiness of the caviar is necessary for this dish. The cod was quite nice though. Lemon Poached Lobster, Autumn Vegetable Tapioca and Fragrant Gewurztraminer Froth: Large pieces of properly cooked lobster nestled atop tapioca style beads of turnips, carrots and other assorted root veggies (must be a kitchen prep nightmare...but, wonderful for the diner)...napped with the light froth. Yet another excellent dish. Surprise number 2: JG olive oil and bread...very tasty. Millbrook Venison Studded with Candied Orange, Butternut Squash, Almond Puree, Juniper Salt: Two suitably sized, medium rare medallions of venison. I loved the juniper salt and the light butternut squash puree...could have done without the candied orange...a bit strong...and the almond puree...bland. Overall though a very nice dished. Served with a 1994 Haut Medoc Sociando Mallet. Surprise number 3: The Pineapple carved and sliced tableside....ripe Costa Rican pineapple peeled, decoratively carved and sliced. Topped with a splash of Kirsch. Surprise number 4: Two dessert tastings: Chocolate: Warm Chocolate Cake, Vanilla Ice Cream-JG standard; Chocolate Caramel Mousse, Hazelnut Succes...my 2nd favorite, Salted Peanut; White Chocolate-Tarragon Millefeuilles, Grapefruit...loved the use of tarrogon; Chilled Juniper Spiced Chocolate Soup, Devon Cream. Caramel Tasting: Chocolate Crepe Suzette, Meyer Lemon...pedestrian...but, loved the lemon slice on top and nice sauce; Caramel-Banana Cake, Sable Croquant; Pepper Creme Caramel, Walnut Nougatine...my favorite nicely pepper spiced; Apple Soup, Caramel Gelee and Granny Smith Sorbet...lovely tart sorbet! Served with a 1988 Chateau d'Yquem. Petit Fours, marshmallows and assorted truffles... An excellent meal with outstanding service!!!

This was the only disappointing meal of my recent trip...and it was very disappointing. La Grenouille is a beautiful restaurant in the style of old haute New York...getlemen...jacket and tie at lunch, captains in tuxedoes, silks and guilding, a beautiful room, with perhaps some of the most gorgeous flower arrangements in town...I admit to being a throwback and loving dining in rooms like this. It is unfortunate the flower arrangements were the high point! We were a large party (12 seated at one large round table). Our service was very spotty. It almost required a tackle to get our captain's attention...and we were his only table. I inquired about champagnes by the glass...our captain disappeared...I thought to bring a list...surprise, he returns with a glass of very poor champagne...practically flat...I returned it as did two others who had ordered kir royals that must have used the same champagne as a base. WHen the captain returned with the 2nd glasses, I inquired as to what champagne I was imbibing..he had no idea...I asked a couple of more times...but, it is still a mystery as I never received an answer. Orders were taken for our meal in two parts...our captain disappeared halfway through (with no explanation). There were no amuse offered. Since I was dining at Jean Georges a mere 4 1/2 hours later, I decided to be well behaved (more or less ). The poor preparations of my chosen dishes made this much easier than anticipated. My first course was Crispy Sweetbreads with Sweet and Sour Turnips....very poor... the sweetbreads were in no way shap or form crispy...they were mushy and greasy...served on a very bland brown sauce which I would bet had a commercial sauce base ...the baby turnips...all two of them were okay...a bit overcooked for my tastes though. A very easy plate to ignore. For my entree course I chose the Frog's Legs Sauteed Provencale...you would think, considering the name of the restaurant, this might be a good choice...wrong again ...After having all the plates land one spot to the right of the person who ordered it (my "neighbor" ordered the dover sole...which appeared to be greasy...and had quite a fishy odor)...the servers did the plate switch...all I can say is...at least my frogs' legs didn't have a foul odor. They were however pan fried instead of sauteed, horrible greasy, and seriously overcooked. I ate about 3 out of a pile of 15 or so petit legs....the captain did inquire about my meal and I replied it was poor...end of discussion..I had also asked for a glass of red burgundy with my meal...a very poor cabernet arrived instead...also anonymous...at this point I didn't even bother trying to get the identity of the wine. Dessert were ordered by the brave at the table...all still clinging to the hope of finding something interesting (or enjoyable) before we departed. I made my first smart move of the meal...I passed. There were multiple souffles ordered...all lacking in flavor...whether they were grand marnier, chocolate or vanilla. There was also a soggy looking appple tarte tatin (pronounced gummy by the person who ordered it) .A plate a 11 truffles (there were 12 of us, I suppose since I skipped dessert they thought I wouldn't care for one...one of the gentlemen offered me his) was delivered with the check...finally something worth eating...lovely, soft dense and intense with chocolate flavor. But...what can I say, the flowers were lovely !

All right, I admit...I may have been the one looking for a red meat or serious game bird course instead of capon...I like bloody juices on my plate !What a pleasure it was to share such a wonderful meal with Charles and his wife Allison. And thank you Charles for the in depth (and accurate) post. I have to add I will definitely look forward to returning to Blue Hill...and to sharing another evening with the Smiths!

During last week's visit to NYC, I had dinner at San Domenico...TWICE. The first visit was as hostess to a group of 5. Unfortunately...Delta was not "ready when I was"...big time engine problems ! I called San Domenico from the Cinncinati airport and asked that they take care of my guests until I arrived. I swept in about an hour late with luggage in tow, to find my guests being thoroughly charmed by the San Domenico staff. Big smiles all around. As I sat down, one of my guests (a restaurant person) couldn't wait to tell me that when he mentioned to the captain he knew they would want to turn the table...the captain couldn't have been more gracious...and made it clear to him there would be no rushing involved...San Domenico was our home for the evening. The service was perhaps the best I have had in NYC. Not once during the evening did we want for a single thing. The water and wine glasses were always filled to the appropriate level, never a missing piece of flatware, food delivered in a timely manner, never a single plate taken away before the whole table had finished a course (a big deal to me as I am always the last one finished!)...all accomplished in a totally inobtrusive way. Since Cabrales and Wilfrid have described the room in earlier posts I will skip those details. My guests had the sommelier choose a chianti to enjoy (and cocktails) until I arrived. Although I saw the bottle I did not whip out my pen and write down the name. Very nice though. Lovely thinly sliced prosciutto on baguette slices arrived as a taste of things to come. I chose Sweetbreads pan roasted with garlic scented olive oil. Two perfectly crisp, browned rounds of sweetbread atop a veal jus sauce with a hint of garlic oil and topped with baby arugula. The sweetbreads had that lovely properly cooked springy texture. Excellent. For the pasta course I shared Risotto Mantecato al Parmigiano with shaved white truffle. Al dente risotto with proper hints of white wine and parmesan. The white truffle was shaved tableside in generous amounts. For my entree, I chose the special of the evening...loin of venison with jus, baby turnips, carrots and brussel sprouts. Two thick, huge medallions of rare venison placed atop the jus surrounded by the properly crunchy vegetables. The venison itself was so tender I could almost cut it with my fork. Again, excellent. We shared tastes of Zabaglione with amaretto cookies and peach sauce (very nice, but I could have done without the sauce); Warm Chocolate and hazelnut torte with ameretto ice cream in a mixed berry sauce...dense and potently chocolaty; Open cannolo with sheep ricotta and candied fruit...incredible pastry filled with light as air whipped ricotta; and as gifts from the kitchen...assorted ice creams and sorbets; a huge plate of housemade cookies; copious amounts of fresh fruit; still piping hot fresh roasted chestnuts and an assortment of chocolate truffles. We also had three bottles of a 1997 Brunello di Montelicino (will have to search for my note for that) and a Dow's 1977 Port. Part 2 to follow...which was even better than this meal!

I arrived home to a message from a local foodie insider...Thomas Keller will be opening a restaurant here in Las Vegas in the Venetian in April. I don't have any details yet...but will be at a Beard dinner here Monday night (and am sitting with some other restaunateurs from the Venetian)...I am sure that will be a topic of conversation!

Great photos...looks like y'all had a great time...Best of all...now I have some "familiar faces" to look for at Rhone on Friday !

Jinmyo... !

Hey Cabrales...good to see your "partial" post...will check back in 30...was this a tasting menu the kitchen did for you or did you cobble the selections together from the menu? I (and another eGullet person and his wife) will be dining there for the first time on Friday night...I can't wait to give it a try!

eeewwww...are we (in the holiday mode) saying cockroaches roasting in an open fire....sorry I couldn't help myself !

This year it will be whatever Delta serves on my way to Hawaii for the Alabama vs. Hawaii football game...chased by a mai tai and sushi and sake if the plane lands on time ! Normally it would be: assorted amuse, oyster stew, arugula salad with candied walnuts, dried cranberries and balsamic vinaigrette, roast turkey, fried turkey, cornbread dressing or oyster-cornbread dressing, swiss chard casserole, sweet potatoes with brown sugar pecan struesel, mashed potatoes, homemade cranberry sauce, assorted roasted vegetables, corn souffle, carmelized onion souffle and pumpkin pie, apple pie with cheddar crust or caramel walnut torte....all accompanied by lots of adult beverages !

After working in restaurants...unless I get sick from eating someplace or am truly mortified by something I observe while in a particular restaurant...I don't worry about it...I guarantee you, for the most part...unless you are incredibly careful...your own kitchen is a bigger health danger than most restaurants (no offense intended)...but, there are exceptions to every rule ! Just think of it as building up immunities !

Grits with crispy bacon crumbled in them.

No Awbrig...no link...but you might try a google search or go to the city's website and look for the health dept.

I won't mention any names...but vermin show up frequently in some of NYC's finest establishments...including in one spot's flour bin ...

Want to know how your favorite restaurants rate with the Health Dept.? Click if you dare.... ...! Scroll down and click search...

Looks like another incredible dinner at Spago ! And of course, another great review. While dining solo here in Las Vegas I have had tables of "gentlemen" offer to buy my meal....needless to say, the offers have been refused. Perhaps you or your husband resemble someone "famous"?!?

Today on CNBC they did lunch at Molyvos...the food looked pretty good...any member input?

Tres arrogant!!!

When I am traveling...I forget people where I am have to work the next day...something about being done with my work and kicking into "vacation mode" ...Anyway...I have started a thread "11/15" to see if anyone is up for drinks Friday. I was looking forward to experiencing one of Nina's advetures...next time I hope! ngatti- I'd still be free to head out after I'm done at the Garden!

I will only be in town for the 14th... it looks like I will be having an early truffle dinner at ADNY...then have to be at MSG by 9pm...so don't consider me in the equation...but, if this turns into a post dinner excrusion for drinks...count me in...I should be free after 11:30pm...and would "like to go out and play"!