paulraphael

This is great news (even if old news). The Panasonic is also a 240v device, as it would have to be at that power rating. That may be why it's not officially sold in the US. Peculiar that the technology isn't everywhere, including multi-burner cooktops. I only see references to this Panasonic unit, and to a Vollrath one that's harder to find. From my (very brief) reading on this, the engineers don't even have to limit the power. It's naturally limited by the inductance of the pan material. A coil that delivers 3600W to iron will deliver less to aluminum or copper. It's not a matter of efficiency; it will pull less power from the wall as well. A coil that delivers 3600W to aluminum could be made, but it would be more expensive, and would either deliver much more than this to iron, or would have to have its power deliberately limited in low-frequency mode.

I imagine in that situation, you'll have a hard time avoiding a case of tourista.

Can you link to this? Last I looked for such thing they only existed as concepts. How well does it do on copper? Is there a noticeable difference when you switch metals? Do you have to change settings?

I've got a portable filter for hiking and climbing. This thing is amazing; I've been using it for years. It would be perfect for travel to somewhere with iffy water. The water coming out tastes great. It probably has enough capacity for a small group of people (maybe a small family) on a relatively short trip. For long-term use or for more people you'd probably need a heavier-duty solution.

Britas use a carbon filter, which in addition to chlorine removes a pretty broad range of organic chemicals. They must also have another stage of some kind of ion exchange material if they also remove calcium (they probably replace it with sodium, just like any other water softening filter). I don't know how well they do with chloramine, which is used by many water treatment plants these days. If your water doesn't taste like a pool when it comes out of the britta, then it's doing fine. I used to use britta but stopped because the filters need to be replaced often, and the price adds up. If you don't replace it on schedule, who knows how effective it will be. Also the ritual of waiting for the water to drip through gets old. We now have under-sink systems that I built from industry standard parts ... standard 10" filter housings, and a beverage faucet. This keeps you from being locked in to some company's proprietary filters. You can look at your local water report and figure out what kinds of filters to get, and buy them from anyone. A good carbon block and sediment filter costs under $10 and lasts at least 6 months. The combination filter we use in Philly costs about $30 and lasts a year. I forget how much the water softening filter costs; we just recharge that with salt once a month. These should last years.

From food science sources (incl. Modernist Cuisine): Standard method: 55°C / 131°F x 2 hours Fast method: : 57°C / 135° F x 75 minutes (appearance not as good but otherwise ok) (pasteurized whites may be more difficult to whip but eggs are otherwise unchanged)

That's a little strange. It would pretty much limit you to cast iron or spun steel. People use clad pans all day long on restaurant induction ranges that are many times more powerful than a control freak. I suspect they just don't want you to get mad if you wreck a badly made consumer pan. " I've googled a bit and gotten conflicting answers. It seems that some non-ferrous materials do heat under induction, and some sources say graphite is one of those materials." Possibly because induction can theoretically (depending on the oscillation frequency) heat anything that's conductive, including graphite. But no existing induction hob works at high enough frequencies to do this. They all only work on ferrous metals. I believe the problem with higher frequencies is that you'd have wildly different levels of efficiency (and heating ability) for different materials. Which would be confusing. And you might end up jamming all the radio waves for miles around.

In the US, tap water faces stricter government standards than bottled water. No one's really responsible for telling you what's in bottled water, or what the actual source is. Tap water might still be bad ... just because it's regulated doesn't mean it passes all the tests. You can typically find annual water quality reports online at your utility's site. In Brooklyn our water is excellent ... except for the chlorine they add in swimming-pool quantities in the summer, and except for the silt and nasty flavors the water picks up from our building's pipes. A regular carbon block filter takes care of those problems. The water is then perfect for drinking, or tea and coffee. In Philly, the water has higher levels of metals, worse organic pollutants, and they add chloramine instead of chlorine (harder to filter out). It's also quite hard. I put in a 2-stage filter in our kitchen there: a softener, and then a combination filter that has a catalytic carbon stage (works on chloramine) and a stage with KDF filter media (works on metals). The results are quite good. Not quite as good as Brooklyn water for drinking or coffee, but plenty good enough. With well water, I'd be looking for things like agricultural runoff, and surprises from fracking or landfills or who-knows-what. In addition to the biological goodies. Did someone say "coliforms?" To paraphrase The Who, "It's a fecal matter, baby."

That's what I liked about the old bog-standard Oxo. It opened cans and I never had to think about it. I don't need to know if it's the world's finest. People with arthritis or some other challenges with their hands might disagree.

After reading a few glowing reviews, I got an inauspiciously-named EZ-DUZ-IT can opener (eG-friendly Amazon.com link). It's ok, but not special, and the handle grips don't stay on. I'll eventually go back to OXO. I think that's the nicest one I've used. I see now that OXO has a fancy smooth-edge opener (eG-friendly Amazon.com link). I haven't seen it in person. Would be interesting to try. The problem I have with these de-crimping openers is that I'm not convinced I'll know how to work them early in the morning, pre-coffee, or late at night, post-cocktail.

Reviving this thread again. I've recommended to a friend, and SV Toolbox is no longer available in the Apple App Store. Says "not available in your region," which sounds suspicious. This is a problem especially because it seems there's no way to back up apps anymore. The usual backup methods will save your personal data and information about where to put the icon on your home screen—but if you get a new phone or do a restore, the phone will re-download the app from the store. Maybe something to do with security and code signing? I don't know, but it's troubling. I went to the Breville / PolyScience site and complained in their customer feedback form. If you are an ally of all that is good and just and true, you'll do the same. Or set me straight: is there any way to get this? Or another app that's close to as good?

We discovered aster honey a few years ago in Vermont and are hooked. It has a piney / hoppy flavor and aroma. Not so easy to find in NYC, so we just buy a giant jar from the same VT farmer every few years.

Interesting. I've gotten that bulletproof black layer on all kinds of metals, including stainless. I suspect it's almost all carbon, because of how hot things get on that side of the pan. I don't think it's identical to the standard seasoning on the inside.

I haven't noticed with starches. But I've never compared, or even paid that close attention. There's a huge difference with gums. Not just different brands and product lines, but sometimes different batches. The supply chain shitshows of the last few years have shaken things up. The big companies (like ingredeon) seem to respond to price hikes in a particular gum by finding a cheaper and possibly lower-quality source. And not telling anyone. I had a couple of ice cream consulting clients say they started having problems with familiar brands. Some of them had to start experimenting by importing alternatives from different countries and doing their own experiments.

You can get good at it without it becoming a hobby or obsession. I don't especially like sharpening. What I found is that it took a couple of months of practice to get decent. Meaning, there was a lot to learn still, but already my knives would work better than when they were new, or when sharpened by some jackhat. One tip: if you don't want to buy that diamond plate, you can get a cheap stone flattener. That too will dish ... you can flatten it by rubbing on a concrete sidewalk.

I experimented with seasoning bare aluminum once. It kind of sort of worked. The piece is a heavy 2-burner griddle. It took a seasoning layer, and it resists sticking, but the finish is very fragile. Maybe not worth it. Still, don't listen to anyone who says it's impossible.

Are any of the people who re-tin copper still alive? If so, you might want to catch them while they're around!

That's too bad. I think I used their products a couple of times and thought they were decent. It looks like their commercial products are still available. I didn't realize they were made by Ajinomoto.

Carbon steel is less porous than cast iron, so the seasoning just doesn't stick to it as tenaciously. But I notice that in places where it's used, like restaurants, no one seems to care. They just let the seasoning form and flake off as it will. I don't know why your rice is such a good scouring pad. Other than starch being a naturally good glue.

Conventional wisdom says don't use it on teflon, but that might not be based on anything. I don't know why lye would attack teflon. It could make a mess out of any aluminum it contacts. So I guess you could make this work but you'd want to be careful.

You even have to be careful with regular oil. Especially the kind of refined oils people are most likely to use (canola, safflower, etc.). These are high in polyunsaturated fats and so are the most efficient at oxidizing, polymerizing, and turning into a bulletproof coating. Just like what you want on iron. I notice this as a brownish coating that first shows up around the sides of frying pans. It's not coming off.

Peterson's Fish & Shellfish is a good one. I also like Ripert's old Le Bernardin cookbook, which has recipes for some of their iconic sauces.

I would not do this. If you did actually create a "seasoning" layer as you would on steel or cast iron, it would probably make the teflon stickier. That seasoning is made from polymerized and carbonized oils. If you get actually get the oil hot enough to carbonize, you'll start breaking down the teflon, ruining its qualities and creating toxic particulates. And if you don't, you'll make the pan sticky. Either way, that polymer layer will be tough enough that there's not much you could do to remove it that wouldn't wreck the teflon coating. If you don't heat it enough to even polymerize it ... then you just have an oily pan. You should probably wash it, otherwise it WILL polymerize next time you preheat it. Makes no damn sense.

One of the many things I like about the show: a more true observation of the creative process than I think I've ever seen in shows or movies. There are a bunch of scenes where Carmen and Syd are working on dishes for the new restaurant. There's an intense collaboration: trying things, rejecting things, talking them out, trying to put impressions into words, circling, homing in on something, failing, trying again, agreeing, fighting, egging each other on ... I just don't recall seeing anything as convincing as this before. Writers usually fall back on lazy clichés like the "Aha!" moment, and other kinds of dramatic revelation. They don't show what the real work is like. This is as true for shows about chefs as for ones about artists, musicians, writers, scientists, inventors ...

I don't understand why hot cocktails aren't more popular. Why doesn't every bar serve them all winter long? Irish coffee especially is perfect. It's every food group in a single glass: booze, dessert, caffeine, and hot.