kai-m

Moto seems to be an amazing place. Just one short question regarding one presentation: On several pictures I have seen a "battleship style" metal plate on which dishes were served. What exactly is the culinary sense of this sort of presentation? Are they doing something special with those plates that you don't see on the pictures?

Of course, docsonz. I just wanted to express that in fact, when it comes to the seemingly incredible number of courses, Alinea is not as different from "regular" *-restaurants, as it seems. On the one hand I find it really appropriate that they grant a tiny bite as much "attention" as a larger plate. On the other hand, I don't know, it feels a bit...pretentious (?). But maybe I have to experience it to fully understand it. (Can't wait...)

I have been following all those great reports about Alinea and if all works out I will make it there this coming september. There is just one thing I would like to say and which I hope does not seem "heretical": The "Tour" consists of, like, 24 courses. Sounds amazing - thus the price. But as it seems to me, many of those "courses" are just one small bite or one tiny praline or something like that. Isn't it a bit, well, how shall I say - silly to count that a "course"? It's as if a "classic" restaurant would count every single element of the numerous amuses bouches & the sorbet between fish and meat & the pré-dessert & every single piece of the petits fours as a "course" - which would quickly turn every regular 7-course-tasting-menu into a 20-course-tour-de-force... Or do I get something wrong here?

So finally, here is a short summary of our visit to La Pergola on april 5th 2008 (@mbernstein: we had to cancel our trip last year): We went for a 6-course-menu. 1. Carpaccio of scallops on amaranth grain and black corn with ginger oil 2. Cylinder of scampi with olive oil powder and tapioca vinaigrette 3. Fagotelli "La Pergola" 4.1. Crispy red mullet with spring herbs 4.2. Amberjack with cime de rape sauce and salt cod snow 5. Duck liver and lobster medaillons with lime-"air" and raw pea-sprouts. 6. Grand dessert Well, what can I say: All in all it was a very disappointing meal. Okay, the ingredients were first rate - but what else would you expect in a 3* restaurant?! The problems were: -Extremely small portions -Lack of flavor -Lack of complexity in the compositions and the flavors. -Lack of a real "dramatic arc" in the menu. For example the bitterness of the pea sprouts was "killing" the lobster and the foie gras - which weren't seasoned at all, so it seemed... The salt cod snow didn't do anything for the amberjack. So why was it there? And a little piece of "crispy red mullet" with some herb-leaves on the plate qualifies for a 3* dish?? The "Grand Dessert" was a mass of small plates that were banal in taste - but at least the lime-soufflee was really excellent. The amuses bouches, a "variation of melanzane and red pepper" was a joke - I don't remenber any of it. It may be the most boring amuses I have ever had in michelin-*-restaurant and it certainly was not worth 3*... The best dish, I have to say, was the Fagotelli "La Pergola": amazing, just amazing!! A true 3* dish...I would love to eat a pure pasta-degustation-menu by heinz beck one day...! Regarding the service: for a restaurant whose chef has written a big, fat book about the "art of service", the service was far from perfect. For example it was forgotten to bring the famous salt-and-pepper-selection to our table - we had to do without... But all my kudos go to maitre simone pinoli! What a charming, welcoming man!! Wonderful, really wonderful! To me, he is the quintessential maitre. Apart from the slightly arrogant sommelier and the snobbish manager, who only seemed to visit the "VIP"-tables, the young waiters were friendly and quite good - apart from one guy who had a subtle way of showing us that he thought we were stupid tourists on a "big night"...for example when I asked him about the filling of the fagotelli (I wanted to know how it was done) he just replied: "That is a carbonara sauce. You know: the famous italian sauce..." Oh well, thank you very much... And I wonder: there is golden cutlery and a sterling silver box for the petits fours - but when you get coffee, the sugar comes in little paper bags... To summarize it: the food was not bad - it was quite good, of course. But if I pay 170,- euros for a menu, I expect every course to be a little sensation. That was not the case here - not nearly. I have the impression, that at La Pergola you pay for the luxurious environment, the golden cutlery and the antiques that are on display, not for the quality of the food - really sad, because Iam sure that Heinz Beck can be a great chef... best kai

Okay, thank you all so far... It was just that I thought Alinea is as difficult to book as Per Se in NYC - where, as far as I've heard, you have to hit re-dial for, like, 2 hours - just to get a dinner-table for 5:30...

@pennylane: I think that is because many americans hear or read somewhere (in their travel guides?) that service in german/european restaurants is "included" - that's probably why they don't tip or don't tip well. But as I said: tipping is not as "obligatory" as in the US (which I think is good), but most people just do it anyway, ironically even if the service was not good - which is stupid, of course. On the other hand, my experience is that you will hardly get the same level of hyper-friendliness in europe as in the US, anyway... And it is only my personal impression/experience that france and germany are the same when it comes to tipping - others might disagree. Italy is different, as I was told by my italian brother-in-law, because italians just don't tip (at least not at home). That's why italian waiters, as he said, love german/foreign customers - because the almost always tip...

Hey Julien, we have been to Bau 2 weeks ago and had almost the exact same menu as you had... To us it was among the most refined meals we ever had - classical but in the best sense... Best kai

Hi all, I have sort of a tricky problem and need advice: We intend to fly to Chicago especially for a "foodie trip". Of course we have to plan the trip and book our flights way earlier than we can reserve tables at restaurants like Alinea (and Moto and the hopefully re-opened Schwa etc.). But, as everybody can imagine, it would be extremely frustrating to have a costly flight from germany to chicago - and then not get a table at the restaurant(s) we came to visit... So, is there any way to avoid such a situation? Any advice for the reservation process? Thanks best kai

I know, this is the forum for france - but Iam from germany and I don't think that tipping habits are so different...so here's my 2 cents: Yes, tipping definitely *is* expected (my wife worked as a waitress for years...). To give less than 50 cents (for any check of 3 euros or more) is regarded as an insult. With higher checks the minimum is 5%. The max would be 10% (ironically, in top-notch places it rather goes towards 5%). But if you have a check of 4,50 you give 5, of course, even though it is a tad more than 10%. But there are always cases when a customer or a group are so happy with his/her/their waiter/waitress that they give far more, just to appreciate how great they were treated. Of course nobody will treat you badly, if you do not tip. But nevertheless you are regarded as cheap. In italy, on the other hand, tipping is very uncommon. And, by the way, americans and japanese are regarded as the worst tippers (in germany at least). But even though I prefer the "european way" that waiters don't have make a living from the tips, I always found the attitude of american waiters far better than in europe - mostly they were attentive and extremely friendly. Probably because they *need* a good tip... best kai

Couldn't find anything about this on your blog...or did I miss something? Anyway, could you elaborate on that, please? (Via PM if you prefer) I have been to Il Duomo only once - and I think I might know what you mean... Best kai

Since Iam not even american I can not come up with any suggestions - but still I want to mention that our dinner at Ame (in early summer 2006) was one of our most disappointing dining experiences *ever*, not only regarding most of the dishes, but also in terms of service and atmosphere...(but I know that many experienced egulleters would disagree, that's why we went...). Best kai

Well, personally I try to avoid the Weihnachtsmarkt as good as I can...but for someone who is not from europe this is of course something to see... For "german specialtys" I would go to "Leib & Seele" in the city center: they have schnitzel, gulasch and schweinebraten at decent prices. At "Riz" they serve excellent "Käsespätzle" (egg-noodles with cheese and roasted onions). And Amador is always the best place in the frankfurt area -of course with the current dollar/euro-rate it is pretty expensive (160€ or more than 200$ for the 7-course-tasting-menu...). Have fun! best kai

Michelin has released its first guide for Tokio...and with a sum of 191 stars the japanese city has more stars than paris which has, all in all, 97... All 150 featured restaurants in the guide received at least 1* - a first for a michelin guide! There are 8 3*** 25 2*** 117 1* amazing!

Nice article - for a start. Because Lohninger, Raue and Grossfeld might be sort of "prime examples" of different approaches towards a "new german" cuisine. But at least Lohninger and Raue (good as they are!) are kind of "trite" examples, because they are "oh-so-fancy" and always make for a "good story". Seems like the author took a flight to Frankfurt, then went to Berlin an Munich and just took what was there to be found. But as I said - nice start. Keep it coming... Could you elaborate on that? I don't understand what you mean. best kai

I see what you mean, julot. Funny thing is: especially paris, where I've been living for a while, feels like a conglomerate of numerous little villages to me - where each little quarter has its neighbourhood stores/bakerys/butchers etc and and everybody knows everybody...so by your definition paris is no big city? I had the same impression of Madrid, by the way. And of "small" Lyon (which I adore) and "small" Marseille, too. But we are getting off topic here... I have been to Amador last week (2nd time) and it was marvellous - one can argue about the cuisine (it was downgraded by the german Gault Millau), but especially when it comes to service, all **/***-restaurants should learn a lesson from them: We have never ever felt as heartfelt welcome as with Amadors staff. The atmosphere is totally relaxed, there is no "awed" silence, but a joyful/playful, communicative atmosphere (sometimes a waiter will even crack a little joke to lighten things up) - but it is not "informal". The get the "mix" right. Perfect!! And the food is worth every cent! best kai

With "new" I meant that it has been a while since there was a 2* place in berlin ("Rockendorff's", as far as I remember). Actually Berlin ain't the "richest" city in germany - there are (by %tage at least) more millionaires in hamburg and münchen, and the city itself is as broke as can be... best kai

Berlin has one new 2* restaurant: Fischer's Fritz (located in some big hotel). Julot: not that I care much about such things, but what do you mean by "Germany has no real large city -- save Berlin"?? Hamburg for example is the 7th big city in all of europe. München with 1.3 million people is no. 12. Köln still has 1 million. And so on... best kai

That is, with all due respect, a pretty shortsighted remark. Because then you could also ask: why write/read about art? literature? film? music? I'll give you an answer: to understand it better! But pictures, in most cases, are taken for a different reason, anyway: we take them as sort of a"souvenir", just as we take a picture of the Eiffel Tower or the Empire State or of a friend while sharing a great time...years later we may browse through them and say "hey, remember...!". Same with great dishes. Not so hard to understand, is it? By the way: In germany it is virtually unknown to photograph food. If you do so (did it once) in a "fining dining" place Iam afraid they won't treat you as an "enthusiastic foodie" but rather as some "now-I-have-dinner-in-a-great-restaurant-for-the-first-and-last-time-in-my-life" kind of person...

Not many choices around the fair... A place called "Orfeo's Erben" is pretty close, it is a small arthouse movie theater with a nice restaurant in the house - quite okay, but not "michelin"-food...they have a website, too. There is an okay restaurant in the intimate, elegant 5-star-hotel "Hessischer Hof" right opposite the fair. The dining room is very pompous (reminded me of an ancient luxus-liner...). They have a legendary cocktail bar as well. But both places are rather expensive (as is *anything* in frankfurt...). As far as I can think of it, that is basically it around the fair...sorry... But there is a subway in front of the fair that will take you downtown in no time... Take the stop "hauptwache" and go to "Riz" (tapas and a few dishes) or "Walden" (cross-over) or "Leib & Seele" (german) or "MoshMosh" (asian-fusion) or "Medici" (a bit more upscale). They are all quite nice with okay/decent food...no "gourmet" stuff, though, but decent enough bistro-dishes... And: they (and some others) are within 2-3 blocks...(just around the "Goethe-Haus", by the way). best kai

Funny article, thanks. But even though I believe the writer that "To the dismay of Parisians, some of these (Bistros) now impose two sittings, one at 7.30pm (which mostly attracts foreigners) and the other at 9.30pm.", the formulation alone implies that it is far from common. Furthermore the author contradicts herself when, one paragraph later, she writes that "After all, you are here for the long haul (probably two to three hours with an aperitif, three courses and coffee and/or a digestif after the pudding). (...) it’s considered scandalously rude (with rare exceptions) for the waiter to rush you out of the restaurant at the end of the meal." That's how I know it.

In upscale restaurants? Not that I know...hmm...okay, in London they do it, you are right. But in the other major "gourmet countries", such as France, Italy and Germany, I have never encountered multiple sittings. It may happen of course, if someone comes early, leaves early and there is a walk-in - but there is no "schedule" they work with. Same goes for diners, cafes and bistros - you can have a cake&coffee or a meal and sit there for hours, and no waiter would ever dare to signal you to leave; walk-ins would be turned away. But I stand corrected and maybe you can name an example. Of course there is always an exception to the rule and hardcore-tourist-spots might be different in this regard. But I see that the dining-culture is way different in the US in this regard anyway (not just i what DutchMuse described). In germany, for example, there is rarely such a thing as pre-/post-theater-(fine-)dining. You either go to the theater *or* to a fine dining restaurant - which, of course, may be a result of the fact that fine dining always takes several hours. best kai

Thanks for all the replys and advice! Fat Guy: I didn't mean to "badmouth" (or whatever the right expression might be) multiple seatings, if this is how it seemed. I was just unsure about how it works, especially in NYC, since for europeans this is totally unknown...but your explanation makes perfect sense (of course). My experience with "simpler" places like diners/breakfast cafes etc in the US is just that the waiter gets to your table after you're finished with your meal and asks if you need anything else - and if you say "not, not right now" you find the check on your table 2 minutes later, no matter if the place is packed or half empty - which, for us as europeans at least, always seemed to say "make way for the next tipper", even though in some cases we certainly would have ordered something else, only not at the moment we were asked...but this (misunderstanding??) might be something for another thread... Anyway, as I said, on open table there seems to be no problem at all to get a table for the 8/8.30 seatings... Best kai

Just took the advice and checked on open table: within a week (or even earlier!!) you can get 8:30-reservations at WD and EMP (for weekends it seems like 2 weeks; same for MOTO in chicago). So I guess there ain't no big problem. Will have to ckeck Alinea though. One last question: how is it with the double seatings if you go for 8:30? I hope they leave you alone?!? thanks best kai

O.K. - that means,for example, that even though I have to pay like 140$ for a menu at EMP it is probable that I have to get there between 6.30 and 7.30pm and will be done with my 10 courses by 9 or 9.30pm to make way for the next seating???? Can hardly believe that... In any case I suppose that with a 8:30 or 8:45 reservation (in case you get one...) you have the table for the rest of the evening?!

How long in advance does one need to place a reservation in upscale restaurants like THE MODERN or ELEVEN MADISON PARK or WD-50? And is it tough to get one at all (for a "normal" dinner time like 8 or 8.30pm)? Are there multiple seatings in restaurants of this calibre? I have the same questions for restaurants in Chicago like ALINEA and MOTO (should I open a separate thread in the "Heartland"-thread?) Thanks best kai