Carolyn Tillie

When I was married (20 years ago), my husband and I were strict macrobiotic vegetarians for the first three years of our marriage. I was ALWAYS sick and enemic. My doctor indicated that I couldn't possibly get the vitamins and nutrients I needed in the supplements I was taking. He recommended a huge slab of liver, immediately. I did (served with grilled onions, bacon, and rice) and never looked back.

I'm not sure if you've seen this on your side of the pond yet, but I am experiencing a preponderance towards Small Plates -- beyond mere Tapas.

Twenty.

BTW, nice article in this month's Food and Wine! Just arrived today and it is great to see the press getting a head start on the story!

While I think the b'stilla needs a bit of help, Andy, I might consider you check out Mourad Lahlou at Aziza. That Chron article is about 'rising chefs' which is looking at the under-30 set of up-and-coming chefs who might be hot in the future, but are not necessarily there yet. Now that they are getting this press (and possibly your's?), it will definite increase their cashe. Besides, what is being seen most right now are those chefs who are taking French and California cuisine to a new level. At least with Mourad, you get the added bonus of having someone take the traditional Moroccan to a new level.

This guy paints with wine. Seems kinda like a waste to me... but I suppose he's got a gimmick that works for him.

Was that a Bizou event or a private party? ← It was a wine-centered event planned on a different, wine-centric chat list. There, they are known as "offlines." I was slated to go but was spending several days in Monterey and Carmel and couldn't get back up to town fast enough for it. Now I really regret that I didn't get out of my commitments earlier!

<gulp> I cheat and buy this stuff. Absolutely amazing, truly... </gulp>

That's the Cheese Factory. Not Vella's by a long stretch. Vella's is at 315 Second St East. ← Yes, for clarification to those unfamiliar with Sonoma, there are TWO cheese manufacturers in town, The Vella Cheese Factory and The Sonoma Cheese Factory. The Sonoma Cheese Factory is the one ON the square, selling tons of other stuff (mostly for tourists) and food products. These are the guys grilling the burger. The Vella Cheese Factory is in an old stone historical building just off the square. Their reception area is rather small and besides cheese, I think they only sell a modicum of accompaniaments like crackers, beverages, and maybe a meat or two. I like the Vella cheese over the Sonoma cheese.

They are fine but nothing exceptional. I suppose what makes them taste good is the fact that they ARE grilling outdoors and you are caught with the aroma first which makes you want one. Whenever there is an art festival in the square, I usually forgo the food vendors that are trying to sell their over-priced whatever and head to the cheese store for a burger as it is more affordable. About what you would make at home if just using your basic ground beef and not bothering to dress it up or anything.

My theory is that the temperature of the oven is set relatively low so the water doesn't evaporate so quickly. I think the last time I did it, I only had to add extra water once. I don't see why it wouldn't work with beef, however the benefit of doing it with a pork butt is the amount of fat -- if you use beef, I think you should look for one that is HEAVILY marbled. The length of time that the pork is there very slowly renders out the fat and tenderizes the pork -- I would be afraid that beef could ultimately end up being rather dry if not sufficiently larded.

And I will forever be pissed that I had to cancel out of that dinner in the midst of the planning! I am SO jealous and should have driven back from Carmel earlier!

Never feeling quite up to digging an entire pit to create a Hawaiian luau, the next best remedy and easy way to make Kahlua Pig is to take a giant pork butt (20 pounds or so), rub it with liquid smoke and a bit of ultra dark soy sauce. Wrap it up in banana leaves and tie it up with string. I have this amazing giant steamer pot that I got at a 99 Ranch Market. It is a 20-quart stock pot with a lip on the inside about four inches from the bottom with a perforated tray that lies inside. A few inches of boiling water in the bottom to get some steam and keep the humidity up in the oven. Heat oven up to about 300 or so and put pig in oven for 5 hours or so. The banana leaves add this depth of flavor and earthiness and the pork falls apart in beautiful shreds.

I guess I'm a dissenter... I found his frequent off-topic meanderings of his life a tad boring. I never got beyond the first third of the book after buying it a year ago. I forgot I had it.

The be all and end all of Medieval culinary websites: Medieval and Renaissance Webring

The best line: "Who the heck is going to get rich off rice pudding?" asked Ozbbel Baez, a local carpenter. I love it...

The cafe is quite nice and surprisingly good. I've had a spinach salad there as well as some sandwichy thing which escapes memory. The real treat, however, is ordering their hot chocolate. Yeah, I know I could make it at home (and do!) but somehow they make it taste better. And, needless to say, all the chocolate desserts are divine.

Dan is a great guy and part of the driving force of the Culinary Historical Society of Southern California. PM me if you want his e-mail.

Okay, but here's a stupid question... other than Sonoma Saveurs' Duck Burgers (which I adore) and the ones grilled outside of that cheese market, who else in town sells burgers? I suppose that Black Bear Diner does, but I'd quickly discount them for being so Dennys-like. Does the Swiss have burgers? Anywhere else I'm not thinking of?

Yeah.... I'm addicted and stop in every other week or so. Around the holidays the pastry offerings including miniature pecan tartlettes, miniture pumpkin mousse tartlettes, and delicate pear/cranberry tartlettes. I'll often just get a bag of 'bouchons' for work or a loaf of bread on the way home. Also, they started offering canneles -- sadly, after tasting Paula Wolfert's canneles, I found Bouchon's pretty mediocre; unnattractive, mal-formed, chewy, and little or no flavor.

To add my ruminations on the magic that is Chef Kinch, the following meal was shared last Friday evening by Samgiovese and MerLot (glorious hosts!) with Shawn and me... Glorious meal, glorious hosts... sing thy praises, oh angels up above! Also, I apologize for the blurry pictures -- it actually convinced me to buy a new camera... A complimentary glass of Veuve... not pictured. Who can complain about getting luscious Veuve? Petit Fours of Red Bell Pepper Pate de Fruit with Olive Madeleines Immense flavor burst in the pate de fruit with a great compliment of the tender, savory madeleine. Parmesan Churro Would that these were available on street corners! Oyster and Uni in its own Gelee I've never had uni like this - amazingly fresh and an instant aphrodisiac. Key Lime Tequila Cocktail with Hibiscus The perfect palate cleanser. Some Chardonnay for the next few courses... 2002 Peter Michael 'Mon Plaisir' - from Samgiovese's cellar. I used to hate chardonnay and am now looking forward to trying more, if they are like this one! The Arpege Egg Finally, to see what all the hype was about. Well worth the hype. Crab Ravioli topped with Avocado and heightened with Blood Orange The avocado could have overpowered this, but the orange brought out the crab and all the flavors balanced together wonderfully. Blue Fin Tuna Tartare with Ocean Gelee It somewhat disappeared in the mouth, melting and expanding in flavor. And now, some Pinot Noir. 2002 Mendelson, from the wine list. Lovely, huge, syrah-like Pinot. Must look for more. An aroma of toasted marshmallow with full, dark raspberry in the mouth. Risotto with Bottarga with Shellfish Gratin Great use of bottarga! I could have easily dined on a large plate of this alone. Spot Prawn with Cauliflower Like the uni, I have never experienced cauliflower this good. It starts like a simple cream in your mouth and the next thing you know, the essence of the vegetable explodes and in a zen-like feeling, you ARE a cauliflower. At this point, we had the two Ladera wines that I brought, the 2001 Howell Mountain and 2001 Lone Canyon - both Cabernets. Mackeral with Salmon Roe I must admit, several days later, this is one of those dishes I keep remembering. The explosion of the roe contrasting with the perfectly fresh mackeral was fabulous. Duck Liver and Marrow on Toasts with shredded BlackTruffles Shawn dashed to the men's room when this dish was brought out -- he almost didn't get his... Foie Brochette with Dried Fruit Never met a foie I didn't like... the chunks of dried fruit compimented the melting foie very nicely. Good thing I had a sip of Veuve left! Confit of Suckling Pig with house-made Boudin Noir - as it looked before being plated. Stunning. And after it was plated. Not many folks are brave enough to make homemade boudin noir. Huge kudos to Chef Kinch for this one - innovative considering the clientele AND extremely well done. 36 Hour Lamb with Sweet Garlic Puree Again, an entire plate of this would have been quite sufficient. Blood Orange Sorbet with Kumquat Another great palate cleanser - very intense. Pineapple Soup with Kaffir Lime The chunks of pineapple made this quite fun, but I didn't get a huge sense of the lime. Caramelized Pineapple Cake Ah, the beginning of the desserts... Pecan Tart with Rum Banana Possibly the least successful of the bunch, but then again, I've never considered bananas very elegant. Bittersweet Chocolate Souffle with Cinnamon Ice Cream Need a big one of these! Miniature Hot Chocolate with Dulce de Leche Probably the one thing that haunts me the most. Beyond creamy. Beyond rich. Finale Petit Fours - Lychee Pate de Fruits with Chocolate Madeleines A stroke of genius to finish with the same composition that he started with. The biggest problem is that I live a bit too far away to frequent Manresa. I would love to go through and have his fireplace menu - or even some of the main courses. Must make the effort, though. The restaurant is too good to be this close and not be frequented. And many, many gratuitous thanks to Sam and Mer and Dave and Michael and Tim!

Ummmm... me thinks my invite got lost in the mail!?!?!? Now we won't let THAT happen again, now will we??? Seriously, guys. I've done what you are doing. I am a disciple of the beloved foie. I understand and can provide the secret handshakes. You have done well, my children.

Zinfandel -- It is not just for cornflakes anymore!

A glass (at least!) a day -- more on weekends. If I'm giving the tours at the winery, than definitely more as barrel samples are quite necessary! Although I tend to disagree with Rebel Rose on milk... next to wine, it is my favorite beverage and I would order it in restaurants if there were free refilles!

I used to go to Palm Springs for <ahem> White Party. Gotta admit, for White Party, there was not much eating to be concerned with... I've had breakfast at Don & Sweet Sue's Cafe which is standard breakfast fare. I preferred Elmer's Pancake House for the Morning After Fix-Me-Up. El Mirasol is decent enough Mexican cuisine. St. James at the Vineyard has been known to have pretty exceptional specials but it never wowed me. Truthfully, I think it is a bit of a dining wasteland with lots of over-priced restaurants catering to tourists. Pity, too. I used to go to the Velvet Turtle just because I remember eating at that chain with my folks when I was six or seven years old and it has those odd, old memories of "classy restaurants" from the 70s.